Category Archives: dog crates

Puppy Training Crates

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    When training a new born puppy should i use a crate?
    I really don't like the idea of getting a crate, but every book I read about puppy training said your should get a crate, but when it said you did not have to get a crate then it would say use the newspaper method instead........but I already decided that I was going to use that method whether I hade a crate or not!

    Should I get a crate (all the critics say so) or should I not!?

    YES OR NO

    Please explain why!

    Thank you!

    • ANSWER:
      I new puppy needs a place of it's own to feel comfortable and safe. If you have kids etc. it gives him a safe haven and if he is tired he knows he can go there, no one will bother him. Also unless you plan on staying awake all night to make sure he doesn't swallow a sock or chew the leg off your bed this makes sure he is safe. Don't put anything in his crate that he can chew and choke on and remove his collar. Also when you get up in the morning CARRY him outside right away and put him down where you want him to go to the bathroom. This teaches him where to go and to not pee in your house. Also if you travel, most places and people will accept a crated dog but not a loose one. Think of the crate as a crib not as a cage. It is to keep your puppy safe when you're not watching him and if you're driving it secures him if you get in an accident which will be less likely if he isn't in your lap.
      Good luck and enjoy your new puppy!

  2. QUESTION:
    Can someone give me some puppy advice and tips?
    I am looking to buy a 10 week old female siberian/alaskan husky. I want to train it while it's young to not jump on beds, sofas, etc.. so can someone give me some puppy training advice for that? Also, where do puppies like to sleep? I am thinking of building it a crate with a carpet floor. Also, what type of toys do puppies love to play with? Thanks everyone!

    • ANSWER:
      For not jumping on beds/sofas/etc-
      Don't allow it to do it, ever. My pup was allowed on the couch at the breeder's house, but when I brought him home I made it clear that he's not allowed on the couch or bed. He attempted to get on either one a few times, but I gave a firm "NO!" and pushed him off. He got the hang of it and now knows that he's not to be up there. It's important that you don't ever allow him up there for any reason-once you do, he'll try it time and time again, and be confused when you say "no!"
      "well I was allowed up there before, why not now?"
      So just be consistent with that.

      I would get a crate. He's still a baby, so I wouldn't trust him to roam a room/the house without me watching (whether it be I'm not home, or I'm asleep, or outside, or whatever). You could get a bed or a few old blankets to put in there for him while he is asleep. I always try to keep puppy's time in the crate to a minimum-he ONLY goes in there when I cannot watch him. Once puppy is potty trained, he can sleep in my room, on his bed on the floor-but still, he will teething so when I am not home, it is back in the crate.

      Puppies will honestly play with nearly anything you give them-which is not necessarily a good thing. Get some nylabones, a kong or two. As with anything, be careful about toys-chunks taken off that are too big can cause harm if swallowed, and if a toy seems to be getting really worn, then throw it out and buy a new one. I always keep one or two toys as "special" toys that I only bring out from time to time so that puppy doesn't lose interest in them.

      Best of luck! And congratulations on your new puppy =]

  3. QUESTION:
    Do puppy training classes really work?
    I was wondering if I should take my new puppy to a puppy training class, I haven't really ever trained a puppy before and I want her to be able to listen to me and actually learn things the right way. She needs to get potty trained and also crate trained and I have no idea how to really do this. If you have ever taken your puppy to a training class please tell me how it turned out with you and your dog?

    • ANSWER:
      my puppy is about to graduate puppy kindergarten and i think the classes are worth it ... the class we are in does not teach the basics of dog ownership such as housebreaking or crate training, but more sit, stay, walk nice on a leash, heel, down, and play nicely with other pups ... my puppy will be four months old november 5 and he can do all of those things (and is housebroken) ... i would strongly suggest the classes as they are very helpful in teaching you how to properly train your puppy ... and i would suggest the book "dogs for dummies" (not meant in any way as an insult, just a great basic, easy to read and follow book about the basics) to help you with some other training issues ...

  4. QUESTION:
    What is the best method of house breaking a puppy?
    I have a seven week puppy I just adopted and am in need of some advice as to how to go about housebreaking him. The adoption agency sent me home with "Puppy Training Pads", but I am not too keen about this method as it allows him to think he can go to the bathroom in the house. I am home with him all day for the next 2 months, so I was wondering what would be the best way to go about housebreaking him.

    • ANSWER:
      CRATE TRAIN!!! Do not use the pads as he will just learn to go in the house and delay real housetraining.

      Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.

      A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.

      Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.

      We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.

      Preparing the Crate

      Vari-Kennel type: Take the crate apart, removing the screws, the top and the door. Allow your pup to go in and out of the bottom half of the crate before attaching the top half. This stage can require anywhere from several hours to a few days. This step can be omitted in the case of a young puppy who accepts crating right away.

      Wire Mesh type:Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.

      Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

      Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.

      Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.

      Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.

      Location of Crate

      Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.

      Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

      In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:

      Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.

      In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)

      You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.

      It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

      A Note About Crating Puppies

      Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).

      Important Reminders

      Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.

      Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]

      Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:

      The pup is too young to have much control.

      The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.

      The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.

      The pup has worms.

      The pup has gaseous or loose stools.

      The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.

      The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.

      The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)

      The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.

      Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies which were kept solely in small cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between approximately 7 and 16 weeks of age), may be considerably harder to housebreak using the crate training method due to their having been forced to eliminate in their sleeping area during this formative stage of development. This is the time when most puppies are learning to eliminate outside their sleeping area. Confining them with their waste products retards the housebreaking process, and this problem can continue throughout a dog's adult life.

      Accidents In The Crate

      If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.

      Crating Duration Guidelines

      9-10 Weeks
      Approx. 30-60 minutes

      11-14 Weeks
      Approx. 1-3 hours

      15-16 Weeks
      Approx. 3-4 hours

      17 + Weeks
      Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)

      *NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)

      The Crate As Punishment

      NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.

      [NOTE: Sufficient daily exercize is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercize is not enough!]

      Children And The Crate

      Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.

      Barking In The Crate

      In most cases a pup who cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal (e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.

      When Not To Use A Crate

      Do not crate your puppy or dog if:

      s/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.

      s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.

      s/he is vomiting.

      you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.

      s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.
      (See Housetraining Guidelines for exceptions.)

      the temperature is excessively high.

      s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.

  5. QUESTION:
    why has my puppy started to wet his bed during the night?
    I,ve had my yorkie pup for two weeks.I am crate training him and there has been no problem with bed wetting until yesterday and today.In his crate is his bed and blanket and a puppy training mat,he has always used the mat during the night expect for the last two nights. I have awoken to a dry mat and a wet bed.It is very unusual for puppies to soil their own bed,what could be the reason?He is certainly not afraid of the crate as he voluntarily goes there during the day when he is tired.

    • ANSWER:
      Not unusual, don't worry. My last pup in training did exactly the same thing.

      Take up his water an hour before bed and give plenty of toilet opportunity before settling down. Toilet him again first thing in the morning (before anything else). I wouldn't use the training mat either, this can confuse your pup that it is ok to toilet in the crate.

      Good luck

  6. QUESTION:
    What can I expect from the Petsmart Dog Training Program?
    I have a 51/2 month old Goldendoodle pup that is VERY intelligent and knows all the basic commands of sit, come, stay and bedtime (goes to her crate) and rings a bell to go potty outside!
    I feel like she may be to advanced for the Petsmart puppy training. Can anyone explain what she may possibly learn that she hasn't already by attending? I'd hate to spend money on training that is already being incorporated into her daily life.

    • ANSWER:
      We did the puppy class then the advanced class, but I'll just talk about the advanced class.

      The best thing my dog learned at Petsmart was to be around other dogs and stay under control. In the advanced class we did a lot of coming with distractions (let dog loose, called the dog to come, but he had to pass other dogs or come with another dog next to him). We also worked on scary situations - staying calm around handicapped equipment, tunnels, etc.

      But overall, the best part was he got used to other dogs. Of course, you need to keep this up, but it's so nice taking my dog for a walk and him not pulling or jumping to get to other dogs and people we pass.

      The advanced class does a few more advanced commands too - roll over, leave it, take it, etc. You'll also review the other stuff.

      I was very happy with the class, and it gave me a a basis for what to work on at home. It's nothing too advanced, but I have an awesome, 3 year old dog now and people always comment how well trained he is.

  7. QUESTION:
    My puppy is kind of misbehaved has anyone got any training tips?
    My puppy is a springer cross and is 6 months he barks at everything, pulls on the lead and play bites, i was just wondering if anyone can help with training tips, i did buy a couple of puppy training books that we used when we first brought him but he has been really well behaved untill now, so the tips in the books are only for really young dogs. Do dogs normally get like this at 6 months?

    Thank you so much for any help!

    • ANSWER:
      There are so many theories and so much conflicting advice regarding the various ways to train our dogs - it's hard to know who to trust and what to believe.

      This is what I personally consider to be crucial, and always strive for when training my own dogs:

      To build a strong owner-dog relationship, based on trust and mutual respect.

      To have confidence in, and control of my dogs in any situation.

      Most importantly to have happy, outgoing dogs that are properly socialized.

      To work with my dogs natural drives and instincts.

      Absolutely no cruelty or harsh "old school" training techniques. I certainly don't believe you have to "break a dogs spirit" in the training process.
      How To Train A Puppy Solving Problem Behaviors Dog Training For Obedience
      Puppy Training Dog Behavior Training Obedience Commands
      Best Puppy Food Stop Dog Chewing Sit Command
      Choosing A Dog Breed Excessive Barking Dog Training Come
      Puppy House Training Digging Problems Stay Command
      Puppy Socialization Separation Anxiety Leash Training
      Puppy Crate Training Poop Eating/Coprophagia Down Command
      Clicker Training Dog Food Aggression Dog Whisperer

      You Are The Best Person In
      The World To Train Your Dog
      The dog training methods I explore, discuss and review on this site all meet or exceed the above criteria. I have successfully used these home based, cutting edge dog training techniques to:

      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      1. Get my puppies off to the best possible start in life.

      2. Correct numerous behavioral problems in my older dogs.

      3. Apply basic and advanced dog obedience training.

      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      Please browse through my site, hopefully you'll discover how to train a dog yourself in an effective, positive and non violent manner.

      You'll find lots of articles, tips and training advice, as well as my reviews of various popular dog training techniques including - dog whispering, clicker training, puppy house training and dog obedience training.

      This website has come about through years of research, reading, watching and most importantly real life hands on experience with my own dogs (and also my family's dogs).

      After-all simply understanding the proper dog training techniques doesn't help out our eager dogs. The important thing is to actually get out there with our ever willing dogs and apply the lessons with consistency, persistence and common sense. It's the best thing I've ever done with my dogs, and I'd recommend it to any dog lover.

      Love Alone Isn't Enough For The
      Health And Wellbeing Of Your Puppy

      I'm ready to learn!

      Dog Health Care and Dog Training Articles:

      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      Dog Training Videos & DVD's Online | Review Of Secrets To Dog Training Videos
      Find out which Dog Training Videos or DVDs are worth your money. Detailed review of dog training video packages Secrets To Dog Training, Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets & Dogsology.

      Dog Training Tips For Home Based Dog Trainers
      Dog Training Tips - huge online resource of effective dog training techniques for home based dog trainers. Learn how to train a dog yourself at home with these great dog training tips.

      Dog Training News and Views
      Dog training tips and techniques updated from dog-obedience-training-review.com

      How To Train A Puppy | Puppy Training | Potty & House Training | Crate Training
      Discover how to train a puppy the right way yourself, at home. Including puppy house training, crate training, basic obedience, potty training and clicker training for dogs.

      Puppy House Training | House Train Your Dog The Right Way | Potty Training Puppy
      Discover this proven puppy house training method. Step by Step housetraining process that will quickly potty train any dog breed. Dog house training and housebreaking information.

      Choosing A Dog Breed - Discover How To Choose A Dog Breed
      Choosing a dog breed is an important long term decision, put in some research to discover which breed of dog is right for you and your family. Includes a dog breed recommender and list of dog breeds.

      Dog Training Books | Impartial Dog Training Book Reviews | Puppy Training Ebooks
      Discover which dog training books are right for you and your dog. Read my detailed dog training book reviews including Secrets To Dog Training.

      Favorite Puppy Names - Huge List Of Popular Dog Names For Female And Male Dogs
      Find your favorite puppy names here - huge resource of popular dog names for female puppies and male puppies. Including cool dog names, cute dog names and unique puppy names.

      Dog Behavior Training | Solve Dog Behavior Problems With Latest Training Techniques
      Solve any dog problem through proven dog behavior training techniques. Fix your dog's barking, biting, chewing, coprophagia, diggi

  8. QUESTION:
    What is the best method of crate training puppies?
    When crate training puppies is it better to leave them in for an extra hour if you have something you have to do. Or to come home let them go and put them right back in the crate.

    • ANSWER:
      I had a belgium Shepperd puppy. First 3 nights he was in a crate with my arm stretched over the cage, next few nights I moved his crate in the hallway and slept on the floor with my head sticking out of my bedroom and my arm about a foot from the cage. Next few nights I moved his crate to the living room and slept on the recliner. Next I opened the sliding doors, set his crate on the patio and slept on the recliner a couple of days. Next I put him in his outdoor cage, it was huge with a cedar dog house built for some reason with rain drains! (spoiled him a little) Still slept on the recliner, a few days of this he would always watch that I didn't move. After a few day I got a blanket and slept under that eventually one day slipping from under the blanket to my bed. This method took less than a month. Every time Lupo knew it was time for me to go to bed he would happily sit in front of the sliding doors, I would let him out and he would go straight to his mansion. He learned many other wonderful things and I miss him so much. I read this training method in a book, but sorry can't remember the name. You know what is best about it? I still had his crate, a little bigger though, and kept it in the house, living room, if there were people there he would come in the house and go to the crate unless someone wanted him out to play. He was the smartest best trained, (not so much by me but how Belgiums are) Amazing friend.

  9. QUESTION:
    How long does it take puppies to potty train? Crate train?
    I am rather unexperienced with puppies but i recently got one. I was just wondering how long it should take me to house train it and crate train it. He wines alot when i put him in the crate, any clue as to how long this usually takes to stop? anyone got training tips for me?

    • ANSWER:
      its different for every dog and its hard to tell how long. i've heard of dogs taking a few weeks and others taking a year. there's really no way to tell exactly how long but i would say around a month on average.

  10. QUESTION:
    when is a good time to start training a puppy to go outside?
    when you people usually start training a pup to use the bathroom outside? do you reccomend using puppy training pads in the meantime?

    • ANSWER:
      As soon as you get him home! Try crate training for the win!

  11. QUESTION:
    We have a 6 week old puppy and I am wondering what is the best way to do it?
    I have put down puppy training pads and they work a little. I have tried to take the dog outside but he just plays. He is a very small dog, part shitzu, pomeranian, and beagle. He is peeing everywhere and I want to know what works best.

    • ANSWER:
      Crate training is the simplest way. Dogs are denning animals and do not like to pee where they sleep. Crates simulate the den. Keep the puppy in the crate when you can't keep a close eye on him. Do not allow him to roam about the house on his own peeing everywhere. Once the house smells like pee everywhere he will never learn not to pee there. Take him out as often as you can and allow him to play in the floor right after he has gone out doors. When he has an accident just show it to him and say firmly NO! Go potty outside. Say this like you mean it, but never rub the dogs nose in his mess and never spank him for messing. Just let him know you are displeased. When you take him out always use the same words to encourage him to go such as "Go potty" and always take him to the same area to do his business. When he potties in the right spot always praise him. As he grows older you can take him out less often and he will become more reliable. In short if he is still having potty accidents you still need to crate him when you can't watch him. It useually improves a lot at age 4 months, but most dogs will not be completely potty trained until 6 or 8 months. Even then if you leave them too long they will have accidents. Many people don't understand crate training and think it is cruel to keep a dog in a crate but as i said before dogs are denning animals and you are not going to keep him there all the time. As he grows his time in the crate will lessen and he may even want to go in his crate for privacy so be sure to get one big enough for him when he is grown. Good luck with your puppy. A good reference book for other puppy problems is
      I Just Got a Puppy Now What Do I Do

  12. QUESTION:
    Does anyone know how to successfully paper train a puppy?
    I have a 8 week old Chiranian puppy(half chihuhua and half pomeranian)who I cannot get to poop on the paper. She pees on the paper almost everytime but will not poop on it. When I catch her pooping on the carpet I say "no" and put her on her paper but this is not effective. I don't know what else to do. I even bought those puppy training pads which are supposed to make them go to the paper but still nothing. Please help!
    I am paper trainign because I live on the top story of the apartment complex and my puppy is too small and unable to climb down stairs. And yes she will be going on paper for the rest of her life. I tqake her outside and she hates it out there. She won't even go to the bathroom out there she just shakes and cries.

    • ANSWER:
      You should get yourself some good Puppy training books. Why are you paper training anyways. Do you have to leave the dog alone for long periods of time or is it for overnight. Crate training might work but if neither do you should just take the dog out many many times so it gets used to always doing its business outside. You'll get it. It will take some time but the dog will understand eventually.

  13. QUESTION:
    How do I teach my new puppy that we are the 'pack leaders'?
    My family adopted an 8 week old American Bulldog recently and have been showering him with love and attention and even letting him sleep in my daughters bed with her. I have been doing research on puppy training and how to teach them that you are boss, and I have come up empty-handed. I would like to know if anyone out there knows how I should go about teaching my puppy that my daughter and I are boss? And does anyone know if letting him sleep in our beds is not a wise choice? Any information will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Well, part of the pack order is found in the sleeping places.

      The dog should not start out on the daughters bed.. as it may take the HEAD position... Later on after alpha rolls are established in the pack then the dog may be invited to sleep with the Alpha but never above the head...

      Other things The Alpha does -
      walks in the door first
      never steps over or around the dog - dog should move out of the way for the Alpha
      never lets the dog *groom* him
      never initiates play... training yes - play no The difference is the toys- all toys belong to the Alpha and get put up after play/training.
      Never allows the dog to initiate petting.. like shoving head under hand or arm... Alpha will shove away then after a couple mins - call dog back and pet him *when you want to*

      That should get you started... with my puppies they sleep in my room crated so Alpha is established - I will usually keep a small puppy real close to my bed so i can put my fingers in the crate/kennel to console.

      Good Luck
      H.O.T. Dog
      Handler Owner Trainer of GSD's
      Member U.S.A & A.W.D.F

  14. QUESTION:
    what are some tips of house training?
    Just received my puppy it is 10 weeks old, need all tips on puppy training and the care of my new puppy. Need to know when the first shots need to start, etc. Need all the help I can get.

    • ANSWER:
      1 - The first thing to remember about house
      training a puppy is they can not hold
      themselves long. Rule of thumb is 1 hour
      for each month old. Therefore a 3 month
      old pup should be able to control himself/
      herself for 3 hours.

      2 - The second thing to remember is you
      take the pup out, on a leash, to be walked.
      Not send the pup out. You have to be there
      when pooch does the deed so you can
      praise the pup, right then. Let the pup know
      it is a job well done. Throw a real praise party!
      There are key times a pup needs to be taken
      out. When pooch wakes up from any sleep
      time & at bed time. After eating and/or
      drinking. After playing, exercise stimulates
      the "need to go."

      3 - Plus there are the odd times when a
      pups gotta do what a pups gotta do. You
      have to learn the pups behavior when
      looking for the spot to go. Pups should
      not have the run of the house till pooch
      is trained. You should keep the pup in
      the room with you so you can keep an
      eye on pooch. When you see the search,
      get 'em outside. If you catch the pup
      making a pile or puddle, just say "NO!",
      pick pooch up and get 'em outside. Use
      an enzyme cleaner (Natures Miracle or
      Simple Solutions)(pet store) to clean up.
      Do not let the pup see you cleaning up,
      it gives them the idea that is your job.
      Outside is okay, just not inside. If you
      find a puddle or pile after the fact, clean
      it up with an enzyme cleaner (pet food
      store) get a newspaper and hit....
      yourself in the head and say "I should
      have been paying more attention." Do
      not try to punish a pup after the fact.
      They will NOT get it.

      4 - You have to be diligent & consistent.
      I can not stress that enough so let me
      repeat. You have to be diligent & consistent.
      If you do your job the pup will catch on
      pretty quick.

      5 - You need to keep pooch contained
      at night. Either crate or put the pup in a
      bathroom. But remember the 1 hour rule.
      You should get up and take 'em out at night.

      6 - You can also teach the pup to go on
      command by picking the word you will
      use for each function, when the pup is
      about to go repeat the word till the pup
      starts going then tell 'em what a good
      boy/girl they are.

      7 - You can also teach them to ring a
      bell when they need to go by mounting
      one low on the door frame and ring it
      with the pups foot when you go out.

      8 - Last thing, never, ever rub your
      pups nose in their waste. Besides
      being nasty it only tells the pup you
      want pooch to ingest the waste. Also,
      never, ever hit a dog. That will only
      tell the dog you are not to be trusted.
      So, these are the 8 Steps to
      House training a Puppy Good luck!

  15. QUESTION:
    How do I paper train my 6 week old puppy, and is it possible that a puppy can eat itself to death?
    Also, what can I do when my puppy starts crying in the middle of the night? Any more advice on puppy training will be much appreciated. Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      I don't know where your pup sleeps but if it is in a crate try putting a stuffed animal in there with it otherwise let it whine...it might take a few days but he/she will stop eventually.
      Everytime you notice that the pup has to go potty put it on the paper,soon it will understand that this is the place to go,but watch out and don't have important paper laying on the floor as it might go on there as well (experience lol).

  16. QUESTION:
    Whats the best way to house break a puppy?
    Just got a new Basset Hound puppy! She's so sweet and so cute, but this is my first time to do this and I do not think I'm doing very well!
    I would very much appreciate some puppy training advice. What's the best way to go about house breaking new puppies? She's 6 weeks.

    • ANSWER:
      Here is a link that tells all about puppy training. This man trains German Shepherds for police work and other wonderful ways to help others. Here is a housetraining link:

      http://leerburg.com/qahouse.htm#top

      In a nutshell, keep her in a wire crate that she can stay in when you are going to be busy and can't watch the littlle dear. (she could chew electrical wires, the furniture, pee or poop on the floor, etc.)

      Let her out quite often, you will see that she will probably have to go every twenty five minutes or so more or less depending on the individual dog.

      When the puppy sniffs the floor she needs to be taken out and told Potty time as you are taking her out.

      When the puppy is through eating or excersizing or drinking, take her out and say potty time in a happy voice.

      When mistakes happen, don't punsish but pick her up and quickly go outside saying Potty time. I always tell them "we dont go in the house in a rather alarmed voice but not a mad voice. You don't want to scare the pup out of ever going in the first place or to start hiding her mistakes.

      It takes a while and many mistakes will be made. When you first start to crate train you will be tempted to take the pet out of the crate because of all the complaining the pet will make. They all do this. Basically, you put the crate where the noise can't bother you and then go about your business. The pup will not want to go to the potty in her crate so you will have to take her out on and off again.

      Here is the link for training your puppy to like the crate...

      http://leerburg.com/playem.htm?name=flv/crate1.flv

      There is another video on there that is about hand touch training or target training..it is a great idea to teach..here it is..click on this link:

      http://leerburg.com/playem.htm?name=flv/handtouch1.flv

      Have fun with your little darling!

      Robyn

  17. QUESTION:
    What is another way to potty train your puppy besides care training?
    Im gonna get my new puppy in 4 weeks and i was just wondering if there is a different method to potty train besides crate training?
    All your help will be appreciated alot !!! Thanxs :D
    Sorry that was a typo, i ment "CRATE" training

    • ANSWER:
      Before you start, here are some essential housetraining facts:
      •Adult dogs can be housebroken in the same way as puppies.
      •Puppies have limited bladder control.
      •Dogs & puppies like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.
      •All dogs do best when kept to a routine schedule.
      •Dogs have to go poddy when...
      o they wake up in the morning or after a nap
      owithin 1/2 hour after eating
      obefore they go to sleep

      Baby puppies, under three months of age, have limited bladder control and reflexes. They usually don't know they're going to “go” until the moment they do! It's not realistic to expect them to tell you ahead of time. If you're observant, you'll see that a puppy who's looking for a place to go poddy will suddenly circle about while sniffing the floor. The sniffing is instinct — he's looking for a place that's already been used. If he can't find one, he'll start one! By preventing accidents in the house, you'll teach him that the only appropriate bathroom is the one outside!
      Ideally, you're reading this before you've brought your new puppy home. If you already have your puppy, just pick up the schedule at an appropriate place.
      Set up a dog crate or small, confined area (the smaller the better.) Using a dog crate will be more effective. The size of the crate is important — if it's too large, the puppy will have room to use one end as a bathroom. If you've bought a crate for him to “grow into,” you can also get dividers to reduce the inner space while he's small. If he must be left alone while you're at work, then a larger crate is okay. Put a stack of newspapers at one end for him to use when you can't be home to let him out.
      Also in the crate should be a water dish (you can get one that attaches to the side of the crate and is harder to spill), sleeping pad and toys. Put the crate where he isn't shut away from the family. If you're using a confined area instead, a baby gate across the doorway is preferable to closing the door and isolating your puppy.
      Your puppy might not like the crate at first. Don't give in to his complaining or tantrums! If you're sure he isn't hungry or has to go poddy, ignore his yowling. If he gets really obnoxious, reach inside the crate, give him a little shake by the scruff of his neck and say NO in a deep, stern voice. Eventually he'll settle down and sleep which is what crates are for! If you give a tempting treat every time you put the dog in his crate, he'll soon look forward to going in.
      The crate is intended to be his sleeping and feeding place and is where he should be when you can't keep a close eye on him. If you give him the run of the house at this age, you can expect accidents! Dogs instinctively keep their sleeping areas clean. If you've allowed him to go poddy when he needs to, he won't dirty his crate if he can help it. Once he's developed better control, he won't need the newspapers unless you're going to be gone all day. Change the papers several times a day if they've been soiled.

      Get off on the right foot at the beginning! Carry the puppy from your car to the yard. Set him on the grass and let him stay there until he poddies. When he does, tell him how wonderful he is! After bringing the pup inside, you can play with him for an hour. Plan on taking the puppy outside every two hours (at least) while he's awake. Don't wait for him to tell you that he has to go!
      Feed the puppy his supper in his crate. Don't let him out for half an hour and when you do, carry him outside to poddy before you do anything else. Wait for him to have a bowel movement before bringing him back in. Some pups get their jobs done quickly, others may take half an hour.
      If he's being slow, walk around the yard encouraging him to follow you. Walking tends to get things moving, so to speak!
      Always take the puppy outside first thing when you let him out of the crate and always CARRY the puppy to the door!! This is important. Puppies seem to have a reflex peeing action that takes affect the moment they step out of the crate onto your carpeting. If you let him walk to the door, he'll probably have an accident before he gets there. Part of this training method is psychological — you want the puppy to feel grass under his feet when he goes to the bathroom, not your carpeting!
      After another short play period, take the pup outside before bedtime, then tuck him into his crate for the night. If he cries during the night, he probably has to go out. Carry him outside to poddy, then put him back in the crate with a minimum of cuddling. If you play with him, he might decide he doesn't want to go back to sleep! Puppies usually sleep through the night within a few days.

      Establish a regular schedule of poddy trips and feedings. This helps you to control the times he has to go out and prevent accidents in the house. First thing in the morning — before you have your coffee — carry the puppy outside. He can then come in and play for an hour. Feed breakfast in the crate

  18. QUESTION:
    How do you scold a puppy when puppy pad training?
    I currenly have a 3 month of maltese shih tzu mix and am trying to puppy pad train him. When he would have an accident i would say "no" and point my finger then put him on the pad say "potty here" then put him in his cage for a few minites & when i let him out i placed him back on the pad. my issue is i think he's starting to think the crate is where he's supposed to go & has had a few accidents in there. Any advice?

    • ANSWER:
      http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/housetraining_puppies.html

      1. The crate is NOT a place to punish a dog.
      2. Saying no to a dog who has no idea what that word means is futile.

  19. QUESTION:
    Does anyone know how to crate train a puppy? or an idea of a crate training schedule?
    I am planning on crate training my puppy and I want to know how long I should keep her in there, when I should take her out, when I should play with her,etc. Please help ! An example of a schedule would be great, but if not, anything will help. By the way, she will be 8 weeks when I get her.

    • ANSWER:
      Congratulations on your new puppy :) Crate training can be a difficult process, but its definitely worth it for you and your puppy. I'll give my advice on what worked crate training my dog (he's five now, but we got him at 10 weeks old!), and then leave a link for the Human Society's information on crate training.

      First off, you'll want to make sure you have time to be home with your puppy, at least for the first few days, but if possible the first week or two. Secondly, you need to pick the correct sized crate. People frequently assume that its "cruel" to have the dog in a small crate, but reality is, the puppy should have enough room to get in, and circle around and lay down, but not enough room that she could soil one corner of the crate and sleep in the other. Some sort of bedding so she's comfortable is a must, but make sure its not something she can chew (since puppies do chew). If it is something she could possibly chew, and swallow, observe her in her crate, to prevent the risk of bowel obstructions.

      Please take into consideration, that a typical puppy can hold his/her urine for his/her age in months, plus one. So at eight weeks, two months, you're puppy can hold it for around three hours. Taking this into consideration, I'd really recommend taking her out at least every two hours to start with, more if possible.

      A normal schedule may go as follows:

      9:00am: She goes outside. If she pees or poops, you give her praise, and you can play with her outside, or inside for a while.

      10:00am - 10:05am: Crate time. She will cry, and you will feel the need to run to her. Starting off with just a few minutes of crate time, five or less, gets her used to the crate.

      10:05am - 10:45am: Tell her she's a good girl and immediately take her out. The BEST routine we've gotten into, is taking our dog out immediately after he leaves his crate. It has clicked something in his brain, so now he automatically uses the bathroom once he's out of his crate. She may not go this time, since she did just go an hour before.

      10:45-10:50: Crate time. Again, plan for tears. Afterward take her immediately outside for at least another half an hour, a walk if you can.

      Repeat this throughout the day. Whenever you feed her (2-3 times a day depending on size) take her out immediately afterward. Keep an eye on her water intake, and take her out after she drinks as well. For the first day, stick to 5-10 minutes in the crate at a time. Work your way up from there, adding 5-10 minutes each day on. Also, you can start by staying in the same room as her in her crate, but you want to pretty quickly move to another room, so she can't see you.

      It is hard, and it will take a few weeks of whining and crying to get used to it, but it makes house breaking so much easier, and now I can just say, "Frankie crate," and he goes right into his crate :) He actually enjoys sleeping in there!

      The crate IS NEVER a punishment. If she has an accident, don't yell at her and put her in the crate. The crate is a safe place, and the more you treat it like one, the more she'll want to be in there.

      Good luck!

      http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html

  20. QUESTION:
    Should dog stay in a crate at night after they are potty trained?
    We have a puppy who is 100% potty trained. We crate her when we go out, but now that she is trained (and has been for a while) do we still need to crate her at night? She has slept with us a couple of times in the past and stays on the bed so we are not concerned about her roaming around the house at night. I would like for her to sleep with us, but don't know if this will ruin the purpose of crate training. Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      If your dog has been house trained for a while it should be just fine..I have a female lab and when she was a puppy we crated her at night and when we left mostly for house training purposes. Once she was house trained I started letting her sleep with us..at first she jumped out of the bed a time or two and went to the kitchen for a midnight snack (this being my trash can) But that didn't last long and she never once had an accident in my house. Although she hogs the bed we are happy to have her there and we don't have to worry about messes. Once they know where the are supposed to do their business things should go pretty easy or it worked for me anyway. Good Luck!

  21. QUESTION:
    What helped you crate train your puppy?
    I'd like different sorts of advice on how to crate train a puppy. We've just started to use Dr Leerburgs way, has anyone got any other suggestions/tips that may help?

    • ANSWER:
      I do not know Dr. Leerburgs way, this is how I potty train my puppies. Remember it is one hour for each month of age, so a two-month-old puppy can only be alone/hold it's potty for two hours, smaller breeds less time. They usually stop having accidents around 12-months-old, but don't let your guard down that early, the bladder is not grown until 6-months-old, and they are not fully potty trained until 1-year-old. I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like “tsst” and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they don’t know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you don’t want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

      REVISIONS:
      *I use a CRATE to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.
      *OUTSIDE, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.
      *BEDROOMS, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.
      *TREATS. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.
      *SOME PUPPIES will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying “go finish” until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesn’t sneak off, or for strange places.
      *YELLING. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.
      SOURCE: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. Thanks for your help!

  22. QUESTION:
    Would you leave your dog/puppy alone all day while your at work?
    I have one 17week old puppy and one rescue dog who's a year. Usually they are not left for more than maybe 4 hours when my brother or I go out. But occasionally they are left from 8.30-4.30. Personally I don't think that's a problem although I wouldn't do it every working day as they're both young but when they're older i probably would. I give them a long walk before hand, and they are left in a extra large crate with food water and toys (Also a puppy training pad in the corner just in case he needs to pee).
    What are you views? what do you do with your dogs/puppies?

    • ANSWER:

  23. QUESTION:
    What are the best sites/books to learn about caring for a labrador retriever puppy?
    I need to know everything before I get this pup. I already know about crate training and taking the puppy to training classes, but that realy isnt enough.

    I want all the information possible, including what kinds of food is best. Any sites or books that you could recommend would be great thank you.

    • ANSWER:
      Preparing for a Puppy:
      http://www.mypuppy.ca/preparing.asp

      General Info:
      http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/labrador.htm
      http://www.akc.org/breeds/labrador_retriever/index.cfm

      Health Problems:
      http://www.dogbiz.com/dogs-grp1/ret-labrador/labrador-health-issues.html

      Great Food Links:
      http://www.canidae.com/
      http://www.naturapet.com/brands/innova.asp
      http://www.oldmotherhubbard.com/

      Spay/Neuter Info:
      http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/why_you_should_spay_or_neuter_your_pet.html

  24. QUESTION:
    How big should the crate be when crate training?
    I bought a collapsible crate from petco for our new jack russle puppy. I bought it big enough so it will fit him comfortably as an adult dog as well. Was that a mistake? I ask because I was told in order to potty train a puppy using the crate training method the crate needs to be just big enough for them to lay down in. Is that true?

    Any potty training tips because I don't really want to buy a smaller crate at this point.
    Thanks you guys! It's our first dog and it was seriously ticking me off he kept going potty in his crate :P I'll block off half of it... The answer was so simple I feel like a retard.
    OMG (laughing at myself) The extra wire thingy! (slaps my forehead) it was the DIVIDER! hahaha

    • ANSWER:
      The crate should be big enough for him to stand up and lay down. They should not have room to really stretch out or to walk around. If they can poo in one corner and lay down in another IT'S TOO BIG. Once the pup had learned, he can be moved up to a crate that is twice his size.
      Make sure it is a wire crate with tons of ventelation. You can make your dog sick if he gets to hot. (upset tummy)
      **my pup learned NO in less than 10 minutes***
      Best way to teach a dog NO is to put a handful food on the ground in between you and the pup. When he goes for the food, cover it with you hand and say NO. When he leaves it alone, give him ONE pellet of the food from A DIFFERENT place. Don't give it to him from the pile. That teaches him it was ok to eat from that pile.
      Never spend too long on one lesson. They get REALLY bored really quick. 10 mins at most. Come back to it in an hour if you have to.
      Never repremand for them not learning or getting something wrong. They have to have a BIG learning curve!
      Shoving your dogs face in the poo they left on your floor will only get you vet bills from your dogs nose getting infected.
      When they are in trouble... yelling is enough. They understand when you are over them screaming at them. Don't make it worse by hitting them.
      END ON A GOOD NOTE!! If after a couple good tries stop and play with them. They will not listen once they get bored.
      LOVE THEM!!!

  25. QUESTION:
    Training tips for my german shepherd puppy?
    I would be interested to hear other peoples training methods and tips, particually on heel, and other more advanced commands, and even tricks, as I am due to have my GSD pup and will begin advanced training right away. Also with regards to 'puppy training pads' is this not just teaching them it is ok to go in the house? Appreciate your opinions and help.

    • ANSWER:
      When my GSD was a puppy I just brought him outside about every 30 minutes(excluding night time), he never had an accident in the house. He was put in a crate for a little less than a year for at night and when we left the house. To teach him how to heel we started with a harness, but that didn't really work out. So we switched to something called a gentle leader for a little bit, he hated it, but it worked. Once he heeled on command we switched to a pinch collar. Also, to teach tricks I used a book called "101 Dog Tricks", a lot of great ideas and easy to follow :) And remember to socialize the puppy with other dogs and people! I would say this is especially important for GSD, they can be very protective.

  26. QUESTION:
    What's the best way to housetrain a puppy?
    I'm am getting a new puppy. I've had dogs before, but I am curious and am wondering what is your best puppy training method? Please explain. Thanks:)

    • ANSWER:
      Crate Training: The second popular method of house training involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances.

      During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.

      Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on.

      Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.

      Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.

  27. QUESTION:
    What is the average length of an adult pomeranian?
    I am wanting to buy a training crate for my pom puppy, but I didn't know what the average length is that they grow to be. What size crate should I get from the following: 18", 22", or 24"? Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      i's go with the 24" just so he has more room in there for him and it will help if he is larger most average weight is 7 pounds :)

  28. QUESTION:
    How do I know when to take my shih tzu puppy out to potty?
    I have him in a training crate for the first night tonight. He first was crying for 15 mins straight then he got tired and took a 20 min nap. Then woke up started crying again then nap. He is 8 weeks old.

    question is HOW do I know when to take him out to potty? Will he give me potty signs in his crate or will he potty in his crate?

    • ANSWER:

  29. QUESTION:
    How much does it coost for puppy vacines?
    i`m about to get our first dog and am just wondering how much it costs for vacines? The dog is about 3 months old so can you tell me if its probable he`s already had vaccines and if not how much will it cost?
    Also what is the best way to puppy train and how long does it take? How much exercize does a golden retriever puppy need?

    • ANSWER:
      The cost of shots depends on where you live - I've paid from 0-0 in different areas of the Country for the round of 3 shots. Depending on where you got him, he may or may not have had his first round of shots. If you bought him from a Breeder, call them and ask, or check your puppy pack to see if there are any vaccine bottle labels (If he has had the first round, you'll need to bring proof with you to the Vet).

      For housebreaking, there is no set time. It depends on the puppy and how consistent YOU are with the housebreaking routine. I highly recommend Crate training.

      Exercise - Right now he just needs to play in the house and your yard until he's fully vaccinated (You don't want to expose him to other dogs). When he's fully vaccinated, you can start taking him for walks. At 3 months, he should be able to make it for 1/2 hour or so, then build up as he gets older.

  30. QUESTION:
    How long does it take to crate train a puppy?
    what is the process with crate training a puppy? when he pees in the house how do i go about it? do i spank him and put him in the crate? what do i do?

    • ANSWER:
      Never hit a dog or rub their nose in their waste! The first thing to remember about house training a puppy is they can not hold themselves long. Rule of thumb is 1 hour for each month old. Therefore a 3 month old pup should be able to control himself/herself for 3 hours. The second thing to remember is you take the pup out, on a leash, to be walked. Not send the pup out.
      You have to be there when pooch does the deed so you can praise the pup, right then. Let the pup know it is a job well done. Throw a real praise party! There are key times a pup needs to be taken out. When pooch wakes up from any sleep time & at bed time. After eating and/or drinking. After playing, exercise stimulates the "need to go" Plus there are the odd times when a pups gotta do what a pups gotta do. You have to learn the pups behavior when looking for the spot to go. Pups should not have the run of the house till pooch is trained. You should keep the pup in the room with you so you can keep an eye on pooch. When you see the search, get 'em outside. If you catch the pup making a pile or puddle, just say "NO!", pick pooch up and get 'em outside. Use an enzyme cleaner (Natures Miracle or Simple Solutions)(pet store) to clean up. Do not let the pup see you cleaning up, it gives them the idea that is your job. Outside is okay, just not inside. If you find a puddle or pile after the fact, clean it up with an enzyme cleaner (pet food store) get a newspaper and hit.... yourself in the head and say "I should have been paying more attention." Do not try to punish a pup after the fact. They will NOT get it. If you are diligent & consistent they catch on pretty quick. You need to keep pooch contained at night. Either crate or put the pup in a bathroom. But remember the 1 hour rule. You should get up and take 'em out at night. You can also teach the pup to go on command by picking the word you will use for each function, when the pup is about to go repeat the word till the pup starts going then tell 'em what a good boy/girl they are. You can also teach them to ring a bell when they need to go by mounting one low on the door frame and ring it with the pups foot when you go out. Last thing, never, ever rub your pups nose in their waste. Besides being nasty it only tells the pup you want pooch to ingest the waste. Also, never, ever hit a dog. That will only tell the dog you are not to be trusted. Good luck!
      Do an engine search on crate training, YA will not allow enough words for me to add the steps to crate training

      http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~rc207100/info...

      http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining....

      http://www.planeturine.com/pettips/dsp_c...

  31. QUESTION:
    How do you crate train your puppy? What is crate training?
    First of all, what is crate training? Then how do you crate train a puppy? How is it useful? I know i can just search this on internet, but i find it easier to understand and more helpful from answers from yahoo answers, because there are varieties of answers from different ppl's view and opinion.

    • ANSWER:
      Crate training is getting a cage, or "crate" and putting the puppy in it when you are not able to physically watch him. Crate training takes advantage of a dogs natural den instincts. They don't want to pee or poop in their "dens", so they try to hold it as long as possible. You need to remember that:

      1. Crates are a safe place, not a place of punishment. Crates are not a "jail".
      2. Crates are a training tool only, and not a place for the puppy to live in 24/7. The puppy should be out of the crate as much as possible, but in order for him to learn, you must keep your eye on him at all times.
      3. Be fair. Take the puppy out frequently and have lots of play and exercise time.
      4. Make the crate a happy place where the puppy has special chew toys and treats.
      5. Don't leave young puppies in the crate for more than 3-4 hours at a time.
      6. Crates also prevent destructive chewing--they can't physically chew the wrong things when you aren't there to watch.
      7. As the pup matures, teach him to be well behaved outside the crate, and begin to trust him a little bit at a time.

      More info here:

      http://www.siriuspup.com/behavior_problems.html

  32. QUESTION:
    Is it good training to put a puppy still in potty training in crate overnight?
    We have had our new puppy less than 24hrs. I was worried about overnight accidents. I have read to put them in a crate w/ their bed but what if he wets it? He is in a 5' x 3' space blocked by child gate w/ bed, toys at one end & newspaper at another at night. Which is better until potty/crate trained?

    • ANSWER:
      I put my new puppy in a crate over night and he did really well. I would wake up at least once during the night to let him out but put him right back in until i woke up. He never had an accident in his crate surprisingly but we still had to work on him in the house. We found out every couple hours at first would help him learn outside is potty time:)

  33. QUESTION:
    What is the best way to housebreak and crate train a pug pupppy?
    About to get a pug puppy and hear crate training is the way to go. Any suggestions?

    • ANSWER:
      House-breaking a puppy is a tedious job, but if you stick with it and be consistent for about a month, it'll be worth it since your puppy will grow into a dog who will hopefully be your best friend for about 10 to 15 years. So all things considered, a month is nothing in the scheme of things. Important rules to live by:

      1. Until she's fully housebroken, you should only take her outside (other than a car trip to vet, groomer, etc.) to relive herself in order for her to quickly learn that "outside" means one thing for her right now and that is to relieve herself. If you play with her, e.g. tossing a ball, she won't learn that distinction. She'll tell you she wants to go out but to play -- and you'll stand there waiting for her to "go" while she'll be waiting for you to play with her. So, OUT, RELIEVE, and back in the house. If she goes outside successfully, praise her softly while she's going . Then, when back inside, reward her with a doggy biscuit saying "good girl for going outside." Be firm, tho. No success, no biscuit. She'll catch on fast.
      2. Always take your puppy out (to the same spot she's gone successfully before) IMMEDIATELY AFTER:

      a) Getting out of cage
      b) Eating
      c) Waking up from a nap

      In between, if you let her run loose in the house, you must watch her like hawk and the first sign of her needing to go, you must sweep her up and say "OUTSIDE". Some people try keeping their puppy on a leash during downtime so they can keep a closer eye on the puppy. I've always thought this might confuse the dog, since a leash is part of the "going outside" process. Otherwise, do keep her in the cage/crate but for a reasonable amount of time since she's little. Then, each day increase the cage time by 15 minutes or so and her bladder will adjust.

      I'm assuming you know the size of the crate rule: just enough room for her to stand up without bending her neck ~ and ~ enough room for her to turn around to lie down. Dogs will usually never go where they sleep. So if you have a dog that will grow quickly and you can't afford to keep buying the next size crate, buy the size you will ultimately need and in the meantime go to the supermarket and get a cardboard box to insert in the back of the crate leaving the room criteria noted above. As she grows, you can keep on getting smaller boxes.

      Last, if you are successful in her learning to tell you she's gotta' go outside, you must honor her request right away even if you're watching a great movie, talking on the phone, eating, sleeping, or in the middle of a snowstorm - TRUST, CONSISTENCY, and PRAISE (don't forget the doggy biscuits!) are KEY. Good luck !!

  34. QUESTION:
    Is it a good idea to train a dog away from his crate?
    We have a lab/Rottweiler something mix that we rescued as a puppy that we trained to a crate. He grew significantly more than we expected (115 Lbs at 18 months) Now he struggles to fit in his crate at night, so my parents decided the easiest thing to do is to train him away from a crate. But I'm pretty sure it'll be hard on the dog since we taught him about the crate being his "safe place" etc. Whats your take on this situation?

    • ANSWER:
      Not knowing his maturity level it is hard to say. Can he be left alone in the home when you are gone without destroying things? Is he reliable in his house training? My first reaction is to get him a bigger crate! But some dogs when they mature are just fine sleeping on the floor on a bed you make theirs by rewarding them for being on it. Try taking the blanket that is in the crate onto the floor just outside the crate and do your bedtime routine. Tell him to lie down, stay, give him a stuffed kong and see how it goes - he may be just fine. It may take a while for him to realize he has some freedom, but that bedtime rules stay the same - he stays put and does not potty. If not, get him a bigger crate!

  35. QUESTION:
    How do I get my puppy to "potty" in the designated potty area?
    I'm following the standard training for potty-training puppies using crates (i.e., taking the puppy out every two or so hours to a potty area).

    However, when I take the puppy to the area, he doesn't do his business in his area even with 15 minutes of time. I'm taking him out after meals, exercise, naps, and every few hours otherwise. One time, I waited for about 20 minutes and then brought him back in, where he immediately did his business on the carpet.

    • ANSWER:
      Its best when potty training a puppy to take them outside every 30 to 45 mins, it may also help to get a puppy pad so it can see where you want it to go potty. You may also try to give going "potty" a name, such as going 'tee tee". When training my puppy I would ask it do you need to go "tee tee" then take it outside so it would recongize the word with the action. Now that my dog is fully grown, when I ask her to go "tee tee" so runs for the door. Good Luck " )

  36. QUESTION:
    How to indoor crate train a puppy?
    So recently I got a 12 week old puppy and instead of crate training the puppy to go bathroom outside, I was thinking of training her to go inside. Maybe in a seperate room. I want to do this due to the fact my neighborhood has TONS of fleas. Will this work?

    • ANSWER:
      It's very hard to train puppy to go potty indoor as they will think that peeing anywhere indoor is accepted.
      Get her some flea prevention like frontline plus which is applied monthly topically on the dog and it prevents it from getting flea. Then teach her to go potty outside

  37. QUESTION:
    What is the best way to potty train and crate train a puppy?
    We are getting a pug puppy and would like to crate train it. What is the best way to do this? and what is the best way to potty train him?

    • ANSWER:
      Crate training is the most effective method for potty training. The two concepts go hand-in-hand.

      Basically, you crate your pup when you are not able to fully supervise him. This will prevent her from succeeding in making a mess indoors. Pups are naturally disinclined to soil in their crates because they view them as dens. The flip side, of course, is making sure you give her plenty of chances to go, and plenty of attention.

      Here's a good article that explains how to set up a potty schedule and get your pup used to his crate.
      http://servicedogcentral.org/content/node/277

  38. QUESTION:
    How do you crate train a puppy?
    I've saw different ways to crate train a puppy but don't which one put treats in the crate or put toys in the crate?

    • ANSWER:
      I don't crate train. I use a crate as one tool in housebreaking. I usually get puppies at 7 weeks, and at that age, they adjust to a crate fairly quickly with no special effort. See my answer at http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110321204022AAOaU3P

      They are known for crying the first few nights intheir new home. I have never had much luck with the old clock or radio tricks. What I do is lay down by the crate like I was going to sleep there. Usually a puppy may fuss a little, but then settle down and go to sleep. Once it is asleep, you can get up and go to bed.

      A dog that has not been crated since it was little, may take some work. Start out just putting its toys and treats in the crate. Praise it for going in. Feed it in the crate. This is also an easy way to maintain order at feeding time for more than one dog.

  39. QUESTION:
    How do I know when my puppy is potty trained?
    I've been crate training my puppy for about a week now, he had and accident 3 days ago and when I have him out of the kennel I either have him right next to me or on furniture so he won't go. The other day he was out awhile and didn't go until I took him outside, is it safe to say he's potty trained or should I keep crate training him for a couple more days?

    • ANSWER:
      I believe he is trained. I would leave him out of the crate during the day and watch him closely for a few more days. At night I would keep him in the crate for 2 or 3 more days.

  40. QUESTION:
    If a puppy is to be crate trained, then does it sleep (at night) in its crate, or in a room just for itself?
    Any puppy training tips that you could give me please? :)
    I'm reading some information on how to house train puppies and thinking of using the crate method, but am not quite sure where i should keep it for the night (unattended) - crate or a room?

    • ANSWER:
      Create is always the safest place for your puppy and also when it become an adult.

      This also makes the puppy, adult dog feel safe and know it is always it very own private home.

      No worries of it getting into some thing that could be harmful plus it really helps with potty training.

      Good job for doing some research. Make sure you always have water in the create at all times.
      Peace

  41. QUESTION:
    How to stop a puppy from peeing inside her kennel?
    I have a 8 week old weimaraner and have began puppy kennel training so she knows not to go in the house. The problem i'm facing is at night she relieves herself inside her kennel. If I wake up every 2 hours and take her out it doesn't happen, but I'm tired and sometimes knock out for a good 4-5 hours before I hear her barking and laying in her urine. What should I do?

    • ANSWER:
      Firstly, dogs don't eliminate where they sleep unless there's an issue. This may include:

      1. infection

      2. pet store or reputable breeder? Pet store dogs "learn" to go in their crate

      3. crate size: if you bought a crate for an adult weim and it's sized as such, you need a divider. a crate that's too big means she can go in one corner and sleep in another.

      4. schedule: you should take your dog out once a night for the next few weeks (depends on dog, but probably 3 or 4 weeks). Suggested sched: take her out to pee before you go to bed or between 10-11. Get up once in the night, say 2:30 and take her to her spot. - better for you do schedule this, e..g. alarm, rather than let her whine. If you let her whine, then you'll need to work on the whining eventually - she'll learn to get your attention buy whining. The take her first thing, between 5 and 6. Eventually, she'll develop more bladder control and the middle-of-the night trip won't be necessary. Also, don't give her water or exercise her hard (creating need for water) too late. Stick to a feeding schedule. BTW, rule of thumb for puppy bladder is hours=age in months + 1. At 8 weeks that's about 3 hours (though this will be a little longer at night when she sleeps, but don't stretch it much beyond this)

      5. Surface: Dogs are very surface and context sensitive. E.g a dog that learned to go on dirt, needs to learn to go on grass and vice-versa. Simply plopping a puppy on a surface they're unaccustomed to does not mean they'll go. You need to teach the puppy to go on that surface or wherever her spot may be.

      6. adjusting your training: e.g. Try, try again. If you take the dog out and she doesn't go, take her back inside and then take her out again. When she does go in her designated spot, praise and reward like crazy. Also, make absolutely sure she has no distractions, i.e. no play, no toys, no affection. There's a time and place for those and this is not it.

      Assess and address each of these as required and you'll start seeing success.

      NEVER yell at your dog for going in an inappropriate place. Remember, it's inappropriate for YOU not for her, so you need to teach her your rules. Punishment can encourage her to "hide" it from you and/or become overly fearful of you.

      Good for you for choosing crate-training - that'll speed up the process bigtime, help prevent her from chewing up your house, and will help with her separation anxiety.

      BTW, I disagree with those that suggest putting the crate in your room beyond say the first few nights you have her. Weims are notorious for separation anxiety and if you start doing this you can easily encourage it - and then your problems are just beginning. She needs to learn that she's OK by herself in another room.

      Good luck!!

  42. QUESTION:
    At what age should a puppy be when i start to crate train him?
    I bought a ten week old beagle puppy today. Should I begin crate training him immediately? And when is it appropriate to start taking him for walks? I was told that he shouldn't be taken for a walk for 3 weeks. Is this right? It is a purebred beagle puppy.

    • ANSWER:
      Start crate training now. Waiting will make it harder for him to learn.

      Take him on short walks, around your yard, immediately so that he gets used to being on a leash. However, don't take him off of your property until he has all of his shots... you don't want to risk him catching anything!

  43. QUESTION:
    How do I train my new puppy?
    We're getting a cockerpoo puppy for Christmas. What's the best way to train him? Crate training comes highly recommended. We really want to raise a well mannered dog and we've never had a puppy before. Any books we should know about?

    • ANSWER:
      Congratulations!

      That's great that you already looking at training. There are many methods out there, find one that you are comfortable with and *be consistent*.

      In addition to consistency, early socialization with humans and other dogs will promote a well mannered dog.

      There are tons of books, but here are three popular ones:
      The Art of Raising a Puppy by New Skete Monks
      The Perfect Puppy : How to Raise a Well-Behaved Dog by Gwen Bailey
      Don't Shoot the Dog! : The New Art of Teaching and Training by Karen Pryor

  44. QUESTION:
    How long can you leave a young puppy in a crate?
    I heard that puppies can hold on depending on how old they are,

    3 months - 3 hours.
    6 months - 6 hours.

    Is that correct?

    And if the puppy was crate trained, they wouldn't soil in the crate for as long as they can wouldn't they?

    By the way, I don't plan to keep a puppy in a crate for very long, I just wanted to know!

    Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      That's a general rule of thumb, but some dogs can't go that long. My dog couldn't hold it 6 hours until she was 2-3 years old.

      If the dog isn't crate trained, they may or may not mess in the crate. If the dog came from a bad breeder who crated the dogs too much, or if the dog is overly crated now, it will often use the bathroom in the crate. It just really depends on the dog.

  45. QUESTION:
    what would you pay for this type of puppy service?
    what would you consider a reasonable rate for a puppy training daycare?
    It would include pick up and drop off of your puppy ,(from between 730-930am to 430-630pm) house breaking, lead training, proper socialization, manners, basic obedience and crate training?

    • ANSWER:
      Well... I consider housetraining, lead training, socialization, manners, basic training and crate training a part of owning a puppy.. I think it helps to build a bond with your puppy while you are teaching and praising them.. Learning together, teaching them new things, the excitement when they finally ' get it ' I would say that I would prefer to do it myself.. Even tho it's not always the most fun, housetraining a puppy.. I think they are all bond building activities.. And I don't like the idea of my young puppy being exposed to other dogs before they have had their vaccinations.. If you are saying that you wouldn't start taking in puppies til they are finished their shots.. Well I have them already housetrained by 16 weeks, so I wouldn't even need to bother... By 16 weeks I have them housetrained, crate trained, lead trained, working on manners and they know sit, off, down, come etc.. I guess I would have to decline the offer.. Thanks anyhow.

  46. QUESTION:
    How do i get my puppy to stop getting me up so early?
    I have a 6 month old golden and she gets me up at 4:30 no matter what time i put her down or how hard i play with her before bed. She has just finished her puppy training classes and is doing good with house training but she does have "accidents" now and then so i don't like to just let her cry to get her sleep in.

    • ANSWER:
      Does she go to the bathroom as soon as you let her out? If she does, just get up, let her out and go back to bed. This is what I did with my dog while training. Whenever he tells me he has to go out, we go out, no matter what time it is. He is an adult dog though, so larger, stronger bladder.

      If she isn't going to the bathroom that early, then perhaps she's just bored. If she is in a crate, leave her in there until 5 and then get up with her, do that for a few days and then the next day 5:30 and then 6am (which is a reasonable time to get up, yes?)

  47. QUESTION:
    How can you crate train a puppy if no one is at the home for about 9 hours per day?
    Both adults work for about 8 hours a day then have to go home. Is there something different one needs to do to crate train a new puppy in this case?

    • ANSWER:
      You CANNOT crate train a puppy, if nobody is home. All it will learn to do, is GO in the crate. Puppies need to pee/poo every 2 hours at 8 weeks of age, still need to pee/poo every 3 hours by 12 weeks. They need to pee/poo every 4 hours by 16 weeks but this doesn't take into consideration all that wild energy they ought to be burning off - constructively, not DESTRUCTIVELY.

      Either you have to have somebody take care of this housebreaking/crate-training for you, or you don't get a young puppy, at this time. Why not adopt an older dog who is housebroken & can hold it - if someone can come home at lunch or you can put the dog in day-care or ask a dog walker to come by once per day?

      - But NO DOG should have to "hold it" for 9 straight hours, period. (YOU try doing that yourself, before you ask the dog to do it.) You won't fair very well, I assure you - if you eat or drink ANYTHING during or before that 9 hour stretch (then don't potty at all). ROTFLMAO!

  48. QUESTION:
    How often should a puppy that is kept inside the house be bathed?
    We are currently crate training our puppy and every now and then he has an accident. Because the space is confined, he gets in his droppings and smells horrible. How often can he be bathed during the week without drying out his skin?

    • ANSWER:
      You need to keep your dog free of feces and urine, so however often that take is how often you bathe that area of your dog.

      Your puppy has a bladder about the size of your little finger so it fills up quickly. Try to let him out of the crate at least once every two hours.

      Good luck with the crate training. I don't use that method myself, it takes so long and then you have to train the dog all over again once he lives outside of the crate. Best to stay home for a few days, keep an eagle eye on the dog and then take him outside at the first sign. My boy puppy was housebroken at ten weeks using this method. I adopted my girl at one year (she was a rescue and not housebroken) and it took a couple of weeks, using wee wee pads. I placed them all over the house and she took to them like a fish to water. I removed all but one over the course of the two weeks and then moved that pad closer to the back door and then finall put it oustide. Once she started using it oustide I took it away. She was a tough one to train but I don't believe in scolding an animal at all, not for anything they do. So, positive reinforcement takes longer but there is no fear factor in that method.


puppy training crates

Decorative Dog Crate Covers

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    whats stuff you need to start a red tail boa snake tank?

    • ANSWER:
      I've owned five Red tails, so I should be able to help. :)

      1. They seem to do best with closed top, front opening terrariums to keep humidity in; and if that isn’t practical and you get a screen lidded tank, I’d suggest covering the top of it most if not all of the way with a towel or something similar. A baby can be kept in a 20 or 30 gallon long tank, but a warning; they will outgrow it relatively quickly. When they are adults, they will need no less than a six foot long by two feet deep by two foot high enclosure, with larger females doing best in cages measuring roughly eight feet in length. The general rule of thumb for adult Redtails is to have at least ten to twelve square feet of floor space.

      2. A water bowl big enough that the snake can soak in it. I have used horse grain buckets filled halfway with water for my larger adults.

      3. Several hides around the terrarium (one on the cool side, one on the hot side, one somewhere in the middle) so that the snake never needs to chose between keeping the proper temperature and feeling secure. It can be difficult finding hides big enough for adults. While not that pretty, upside-down ferret litter pans or the tops of medium sized dog crates work perfectly for mine, and they seem to love them.

      4. Mine have done best when kept on Eco-Earth substrate by Zoo-med. It is compressed coconut dirt that holds humidity very well, seems resistant to mold, is relatively cheap, looks great, and my snakes have all been healthier, better hydrated, and haven't had a bad shed since I’ve been using it. Other substrates commonly used are Repti-bark, Paper towels, Aspen shavings, (which I don't recommend because it is terrible at keeping the humidity where it needs to be and seems to mold quickly), or Cypress mulch.

      5. Two thermometers (one on the hot side, one on the cool) and a hygrometer are other necessities. A temp-gun is a worthwhile investment for any snake owner, as it tells you the exact temperature of any area in your terrarium.

      6. Faux plants, store-bought branches, and/or fixed rock formations can add some decorative appeal with the added bonus of giving the snake something to rub against when shedding.

      7. The temperature gradient in the cage should be maintained with a basking spot of 95-97 degrees with an ambient (background) temperature in the low 80’s. This can be achieved by under-tank heating pads, heat lamps, or ceramic heat emitters. I prefer to use rheostats on all of my heating supplies to be sure that they aren't over or under heating my snakes.

      8. A water bottle for misting, which costs roughly a dollar at your local wal-mart/dollar store/target/etc.

      I hope this helps, and if you have any further questions at all on the subject or would like a more thorough explanation on anything mentioned; please feel free to message me and I will be more than happy to assist you. :)

      Good luck!

  2. QUESTION:
    red tail boa supplies?
    What are all the supplies I will need to buy for a sub-adult red tail boa, I'd also appreciate if you had a link for where to buy them. thank you in advanced.

    • ANSWER:
      I've owned five Red tails, so I should be able to help. :)

      1. They seem to do best with closed top, glass front terrariums to keep humidity in; and if that isn’t practical and you get a screen lidded tank, I’d suggest covering the top of it most if not all of the way with a towel or something similar. When they are adults, they will need no less than a six foot long by two feet deep by two foot high enclosure, with larger females doing best in cages measuring roughly eight feet in length. The general rule of thumb for Redtails is to have at least ten to twelve square feet of floor space.

      2. A water bowl big enough that the snake can soak in it. I have used horse grain buckets filled halfway with water for my larger adults.

      3. Several hides around the terrarium (one on the cool side, one on the hot side, one somewhere in the middle) so that the snake never needs to chose between keeping the proper temperature and feeling secure. It can be difficult finding hides big enough for adults. While not that pretty, upside-down ferret litter pans or the tops of medium sized dog crates work perfectly for mine, and they seem to love them.

      4. Mine have done best when kept on Eco-Earth substrate by Zoo-med. It is compressed coconut dirt that holds humidity very well, seems resistant to mold, is relatively cheap, looks great, and my snakes have all been healthier, better hydrated, and haven't had a bad shed since I’ve been using it.

      5. Two thermometers (one on the hot side, one on the cool) and a hygrometer are other necessities. A temp-gun is a worthwhile investment for any snake owner, as it tells you the exact temperature of any area in your terrarium.

      6. Faux plants, store-bought branches, and/or fixed rock formations can add some decorative appeal with the added bonus of giving the snake something to rub against when shedding.

      7. The temperature gradient in the cage should be maintained with a basking spot of 95-97 degrees with an ambient (background) temperature in the low 80’s. This can be achieved by under-tank heating pads, heat lamps, or ceramic heat emitters.

      8. A water bottle for misting, which costs roughly a dollar at your local wal-mart/dollar store/target/etc.

      Here are websites where you can purchase everything mentioned.

      http://www.lllreptile.com

      http://www.bigappleherp.com

      http://www.reptiledepot.com

      http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=17342+17354+17535&pcatid=17535

      http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15498+15625+16418&pcatid=16418

      http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3307+10627+38+16017&pcatid=16017

      I hope this helps, and if you have any further questions at all on the subject or would like a more thorough explanation on anything mentioned; please feel free to message me and I will be more than happy to assist you. :)

      Good luck!

  3. QUESTION:
    MY DOG WONT STOP CHEWING STUFF up! i need help?
    she is ten months and chews stuff up when we leave so we dont catch her in the act. she almost chewed our credit card passports and 400 cash but i came home in time that would have ruined ou vacation. WHAT CAN I DO

    • ANSWER:
      crate your dog when you leave and when she sleeps. If you introduce it positively, the dog will come to think of it as their "room" where they feel safe. if you are going to be gone long, arange for a dog walking service, even if its a trustworthy neighbor or send your dog to daycare.

      Your dog's chewing stage is at its peak, even with all the adult teeth in, they are still teething and need to chew, but the key is to provide safe and appropriate chew items. Some of the best are the Nylabones (not the edible ones, they make a mess going in and going out, but the other ones come it a variety of textures and chewing strengths to fit your dog) Also, specialty pet stores sell naturally shed deer and elk antler pieces that dogs love to chew on. For me, they have proven safer than the commercially prepared osso bucco bones and even better, they don't smell or come covered in some artificial flavor coating.

      Take cues from the inappropriate items the dog is chewing to figure out the types of chew toys to buy it. (i'm not sure what replaces a passport--rawhide is the closest but it is very dangerous as a dog can choke on it and it is difficult to digest) For example, buying a hard rubber bone will not appeal to a dog who loves to munch on your decorative pillows. Just make sure the items are safe and thrown out when pieces start to come off that the dog can choke on.

      as far as deterrence goes, Bitter Apple spray is the best. But don't spray it on all your stuff! you end up getting it on everything and the one getting punished is you! (we put it on our TV remote, and I was eating popcorn a few weeks later and my hands got that awful taste all over the popcorn and my mouth) when you catch the dog red handed (very important) spray a small amount right into its mouth. It has to be immediate so the dog connects the bad chewing with the bad taste. Wait several minutes for the bad taste to go away, and then offer the dog one of its chew toys with a dab of peanut butter or other good tasting treat, along with lots of praise. I've had to do this once, and now if my puppy starts to chew on something (or anything else bad) I just show her the green and yellow bottle and she settles down in her crate. I give her a toy and a pat on the head and the issue is resolved without any punishment, just prevention after the first time or two

  4. QUESTION:
    My spayed female cat urinates on pillows!!?
    She is from a Tonkinese breeder, and used to be a breeding queen, so she has had quite a few kittens. She has been spayed for about 2 years, and is 7 years old now. I give her Innova EVO food (dry) and Iams Multicat (dry), plenty of water, and her cat boxes are always spotless. She goes on my pillows and on my dog's pet bed, which is basically a large pillow. Sometimes she tinkles on clothes, even if they are folded and in a basket! I have three other cats (from the same place) and none of them have this habit, and I'd like to keep it that way. Getting rid of her is NOT an option, and I've taken her to the vet; no UTI. Please help!! I'm sick of buying new pillows all the time!!

    Thanks!!

    • ANSWER:
      Firstly, get waterproof covers for your pillows, they're washable and better than buying pillows. Secondly, you have to break the habit which means, you will have to shut her out of the room for a little while. Lastly, she might need reminding, put her in a room or crate with food, litter and water until she's consistently using the tray.

      If you use fabric softener, stop it contains ammonia which many cats think is cat pee, the same goes for sodium hypochlorite bleaches. Soak and wash anything she pees on with an enzyme based laundry detergent.

      Some queens can be more territorial than studs. How long ago was she spayed? The hormones don't settle immediately and they naturally drop lowest in fall, so you will have a while to wait. You can get some Feliway from the vet and plug that in, it may help calm her and stop the urination.

      You might need more litterboxes, a general rule is the number of cats plus one. So for four cats you need five litterboxes. Some cats don't like to pee and poop in the same tray, maybe that's her problem. Have you changed the litter from what the breeder was using? Perhaps give her a choice with different types of litter.

      Make sure you keep the food away from the litter, they usually won't go near their food or water.

      Try to engage her in play with the other cats, get a feather or ribbon wand, or fishing rod toy, you can make them yourself or buy them and play with her for a good half hour or so a day. She might be unsettled with the other cats, usually the relaxed one is the alpha cat, she could feel threatened by it.

      The solution is linked to the cause so if you can work out what her problem is, the answer will be pretty easy.

      You can try this approach too:
      Getting Your Cat to Stop Spraying
      Instructions

      1: Have your veterinarian screen your cat for any medical conditions.
      2: Place litter boxes in the areas where your cat sprays.
      3: Put down plastic, two-sided tape, food, sandpaper or a lemon scent in areas where cat sprays. These will discourage spraying.
      4: To divert your cat from spraying in sinks and bathtubs, fill them with a little water.
      5: Confine your cat to a clean area with a litter box, food and water.
      6: Block visual access to outside areas if your cat is stressed by something in the outdoor environment (for example, a new cat in the area).
      7: Use an abundance of positive reinforcement messages.

      Getting Your Cat to Use the Litter Box
      Instructions

      1: Place a number of litter boxes in different areas of the house to increase the chances that your cat will use one.
      2: Use various types of litter boxes and litter materials to entice your cat (see related eHow on cleaning litter boxes).
      3: When your cat finally adjusts to using the litter box, keep it in the same place for four weeks.
      4: Move the box 1-foot or less per day to the area you want it to stay permanently.
      5: Praise your cat when it uses the litter box.
      6: If the cat continues to spray, consult an animal behaviorist and your veterinarian. Some cats need temporary antianxiety medication.

      Then there's my personal favourite, go to the store and buy some small decorative lidded mesh boxes and put dry cat food in them, tie a ribbon on it and put around where the cat wees. They don't like to contaminate a food source. Just a cheap bag of cat food will do, it smells the most and put a few bits in it and leave it, you might need to change it every couple of days to keep the fresh scent.

  5. QUESTION:
    dog help please!?
    my little yorkie is 1 year old and chews on everything...what should i do? and tips?

    • ANSWER:
      The dog is still in its chewing stage so it needs to chew, but the key is to provide safe and appropriate chew items. Some of the best are the Nylabones (not the edible ones, they make a mess going in and going out, but the other ones come it a variety of textures and chewing strengths to fit your dog) Also, specialty pet stores sell naturally shed deer and elk antler pieces that dogs love to chew on. For me, they have proven safer than the commercially prepared osso bucco bones and even better, they don't smell or come covered in some artificial flavor coating.

      Take cues from the inappropriate items the dog is chewing to figure out the types of chew toys to buy it. For example, buying a hard rubber bone will not appeal to a dog who loves to munch on your decorative pillows. Just make sure the items are safe and thrown out when pieces start to come off that the dog can choke on.

      as far as deterrence goes, Bitter Apple spray is the best. But don't spray it on all your stuff! you end up getting it on everything and the one getting punished is you! (we put it on our TV remote, and I was eating popcorn a few weeks later and my hands got that awful taste all over the popcorn and my mouth) when you catch the dog red handed (very important) spray a small amount right into its mouth. It has to be immediate so the dog connects the bad chewing with the bad taste. Wait several minutes for the bad taste to go away, and then offer the dog one of its chew toys with a dab of peanut butter or other good tasting treat, along with lots of praise. I've had to do this once, and now if my puppy starts to chew on something (or anything else bad) I just show her the green and yellow bottle and she settles down in her crate. I give her a toy and a pat on the head and the issue is resolved without any punishment, just prevention after the first time or two.

  6. QUESTION:
    (Recycling)Ideas on how to turn a Jenny Lynn crib frame into a dog kennel?
    I was given a Jenny Lynn old crib to make a dog kennel for my pekingese.

    Do you have any ideas or know of a site?

    I am into recycling things.
    I think a wood one will look better then the plastic ones from Walmart.
    I do have Lattice, wood, counter top and so on in the garage.
    This does not have to have a bottom. A door it must have. I do not want to pick it up and put over the dog. That would scare him.

    43H x 30W rounded top ends
    27H x 51L side rails

    • ANSWER:
      Working out the door is going to be tricky. That and what to do with the legs. If you cut off any posts that stick up then you can turn it upside down on the floor and use the crib's drop down side backwards so it goes up when you push the release mechanism. One problem with that is that it may not hold the side up when the mechanism is upside down and then the side could come crashing down on you unexpectedly. So you may need to add some sort of latch or chain to hold the side up when you want to get inside. You may also have to leave the legs on to guide the movable side and that might look weird. Depending on the configuration of the end panel you may be able to cut it out and put some trim on it with hinges so it would swing out. You could cut plywood to fit the top (that used to be the where the mattress was).

      You may want to checkout some websites like Dog Crate Central at http://www.dogcratecentral.com/ for some ideas.

      You might just want to cut down the crib to fit around and over a wire crate so you have the decorative look of the turned spindles, but use the wire crate door and plastic floor. There's sort of an idea of this at http://www.petcratesdirect.com/wood-dog-crate-furniture.html

      If you can sew then you might be able to cover a wire or plastic dog crate with a decorative patterned fabric. There are plenty of examples of fabric dog crate covers on the internet for ideas.

      Good luck and have fun with it.

  7. QUESTION:
    Help! My dog chewed up my new chair!?
    My new puppy chewed a 1 inch area of fabric off the rear, bottom corner of my expensive leather rocker recliner. The dog is older and knows better than to chew furniture now, but I'm left with a small, ragged area on my otherwise like-new chair. In lieu of reupholstering, which costs a forturne, I want to find a metal corner piece for each rear corner to cover it up and balance it out. I've looked at upholstery sites and can't find anything. I don't know what you'd call such a piece but I know I've seen them as embellishments on upholstered chairs and couches. Short of hammering in separate little decorative upholstery tacks in my own design, does anyone know where to find what I've described or have any other ideas for how to hide this unsightly mess?

    • ANSWER:
      Excessive Dog Chewing is one of the biggest complaints of most dog owners.

      Puppies are notorious chewing machines.

      What's worse is without correction, you'll eventually have a full grown dog that can really destroy anything left unattended.

      You need to understand that your dog's chewing habit is simply part of his nature. Your job isn't to get your dog to stop chewing. Your job is to teach him to chew the right things...

      ... specifically, a chew toy.

      Puppies will chew on anything and everything because they are teething. When you catch them chewing something they shouldn't be (shoes, furniture, the remote, etc.), use the "No" command and replace the item with a chew toy. Once you dog starts chewing the chew toy, use the "Good boy" command to praise him.

      Adult dogs will chew for an array of reasons. A common reason is simply boredom. Yes, your dog can get bored.

      With an adult dog, buying treats like pig ears, bones and of course chew toys is a nice solution.

      Watch you dog closely when you start giving him these treats. A tendancy towards territorial behavior and aggression can occur.

      Remember that you should still praise even adult dogs when they are chewing on the right things.

      Crate Training, which is addressed on other pages, is a preventative measure when it comes to dog chewing while you're out of the house.

      You should consider this as an option but be wary that adult dogs will resist crate training. Crate training puppies from the start is the best way to implement this strategy.

      If your dog is too old for crate training or you just want another option, you can restrict your dog to certain rooms when you leave.

      Fencing off your dog in the house is an easy alternative when you go out. You can buy room divders or expandable fences at most of your larger chain stores.

      As with all other training strategies, consistency is important. Correct your dog every time. Use positive reinforcement and monitor your dog's chewing behavior.

      Take care and remember that patience is the key to success.

      Check out the Source Link Below for more answers...

  8. QUESTION:
    Anything else i can do before my puppy comes?
    I am getting my puppy on Friday and i just want to make sure that i have everything set and prepared before she comes. Is there anything im missing?

    I have these items:

    collar
    leash
    training treats
    toys (shes a cavalier)
    baby blanket for lining her kennel
    books
    food dish
    water dish (our dogs share one big one)
    identification tag
    vet (my dad)

    Anything i can do to prepare for my puppy? Anything i need to get?
    i only don't have the kennel or bed on there is, since my dad is a vet we are just ordering that stuff from the general pet supply store (its the place all pet store buy their products from, just for a whole lot less).
    I also have:
    a clicker for training
    dog shampoo
    my puppy is over two months old
    my dad is getting the food

    puppy proof house (we own two other dogs)

    my puppy is de-wormed and de-fleaed by the breeder's vet

    • ANSWER:
      Things to do before your puppy arrives.

      Puppy proof your home.
      Secure electrical cords to the baseboards, or tape them up high, or string them through PVC pipe. Have plenty of bitter apple or tobasco sauce on hand for those that can't be put out of the way.

      Crawl around on the floor, seeing everything from your puppy's point of view. Look for pins, tacks, paper clips, and other assorted small items that your puppy could swallow. In particular, check under furniture. Then, look for anything that is dangling, like phone and appliance cords, tablecloths, etc. Remember to check at least as high as the pup can stand on his hind legs.

      Buy a few child safety gates and block off any rooms you do not want your puppy to have access to, or the room you want him to stay in. I have a gate across the library where my computer is, not to mention 2,000 books. I have an extra gate to lock them in the kitchen if I need to. The very best gate is the metal kind about three feet tall, but the short plastic ones work as well. The advantage of the short ones is that you can step over them instead of having to open and close. Of course, plastic can be chewed through, but I have never had a Mastiff chew or go over even the shortest gates. (My Chihuahua has chewed a hole in every gate, and can now go wherever she pleases).

      Be sure to remove any cleansers and soap powder containers from the floor, along with disinfectants, bleach and fabric softeners, toilet bowel cleaners and the like. Make sure that all insecticides are safely stored away.

      Toxic plants need to be put up high or discarded entirely. Artificial plants can be sprayed with bitter apple, but are a favorite of young pups to tear up. Swallowing pieces of silk or plastic can cause serious damage, so I usually put them up as well and introduce them slowly, one at a time. Also, remove any foil around the containers and any decorative rocks that may be in the pot.

      Find a high, secure place to keep any remote controls. Any item that contains batteries are extremely dangerous. If a pup chews up the remote control or a childs= toy and even so much as bites into the battery, it can cause severe burns, mercury poisoning and even death. (A pup I sold chewed a remote control battery and spent two weeks in the hospital being treated for mercury poisoning and burns. This cost the owners over a ,000 in vet bills and they were lucky that he even survived).

      Put all shoes, boots, umbrellas, etc., in a closet and pick up any clothing laying around. Remember, nothing is sacred and if it is on the floor your pup will consider it his. A pup will just as soon chew on your underwear as a toy.

      Childrens' toys can also be dangerous, as small pieces can be broken off and swallowed, stuffed animals shredded, Barbie dolls beheaded. Also, children should be taught not to share their food, especially chocolate, with the new pup.

      First Purchases
      The most important purchase you will probably make is a crate. I recommend a wire crate. Buying a large crate (for the pup's eventual size) is more economical and can be partitioned off for housebreaking purposes. The partition can be moved as the pup grows.

      For bedding, you can get commercial crate pads to fit, or make them yourself. Blankets work well, but tend to slide around and the pup feels insecure about his footing. I usually use a canvas covered crate pad and put the blankets on top. They are easier to wash than the pad covers. Have several changes of bedding handy. Do not use new pieces of carpet unless they have been washed to remove the formaldehyde and other chemicals. However, carpet does work well under blankets to keep them for sliding. A heavy rubber mat or rug with rubber backing will work until the pup grows large enough to chew it up!

      Of course you will need food and water bowls. I like to use the 5 qt. stainless steel bowls. Plastic bowls can be chewed and dumped over easier and some will leach harmful toxins into the food over time. Many cases of "puppy pimples" can be traced to using plastic feed and water bowls. Stainless steel is easier to clean, sterilize and is dishwasher safe. As your puppy grows, it is a good idea to gradually raise the food dish. This helps with digestion and keeps them from having to Ahunch@ down on their front legs to eat. You can buy (expensive) raised dog diners, create your own or buy an inexpensive small "Grecian urn" from Kmart. The urns hold a 5qt bowl very nicely.

      Purchase a collar and leash before hand. An adjustable collar will work fine for the first few months. After six months, switch to a buckle collar for strength. The first leash should be a lightweight six foot lead for leash training. Later on, a nice leather or heavy nylon lead will be necessary. Get your pup used to a choke collar also, but never, ever leave the choke collar on any dog unless you are with them. They can easily become caught on something and strangle the puppy.

      Toys are alwa


decorative dog crate covers

48 Dog Crate

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    My 2 male neutered bonded bunnies keep pooping all over their cage, but they pee in their box What do I do?
    I have a bonded pair of brothers, american fuzzy lops, that are a year and a half old. They have both been neutered for about a year and they still poop all over their cage. I have a 48 in dog crate that opens into an exercise pen. Is it because I'm giving them too much space? Would they still be marking their territory after their neutered? I'm just tired of picking up poop! Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      bunnies poop to mark their territory .The space is not to big, so don't worry about that next time you clean their cage, simply pick up the poops (with a small dustpan and broom) and put them in th e litter box. Do not just throw them out. When you clean the litter box leave the majority of the moved poops there just for a few weeks. If you do this for two weeks or so your rabbit should get the point that the litter box is his territory.

  2. QUESTION:
    What type of dog crate is best to buy for disaster evacuations?
    Ever since I heard about all the dogs left behind during Katrina and the ones that were not allowed into shelters because their owners didn't have proper crates for them, i have been so worried the same would happen to my dogs. Although I think I'd rather die in a disaster than leave my dogs behind, I want to be prepared in case this happens. Are there certain crates that are acceptable for evacuations on public transit and entrance into shelters? There are so many different types and I just don't know if certain ones would not be permissable for this purpose. Can anyone help?

    • ANSWER:
      Buy a folding crate it can be stored folded down and carried like a suitcase, then very easily assembled. They are best because the dog has full view out of the metal bars to see it's surroundings. Dogs in plastic vari kennels don't have a very good view out and can become more agitated in them. Four Paws makes a nice one called a Dlx Folding Crate and comes in lengths of 19,24,30,36,42 and 48" long

  3. QUESTION:
    What size dog crate would I need for a 70lbs ABD puppy?
    The sizes are -

    36 inches
    42 inches
    48 inches
    Lady stan im looking online as its a quarter of the price. I would measure but I don't have a measuring tape lol so hoping some one with a similar size dog has some advice.
    Lady stan im looking online as its a quarter of the price. I would measure but I don't have a measuring tape lol so hoping some one with a similar size dog has some advice.

    • ANSWER:
      My 60 lb and 80 lb dogs both fit well in a 42 inch crate.

  4. QUESTION:
    How can I get my 2 yr old dog out of her crate?
    We recently adopted a 2yr old dog from a farm outside the city, and ever since, she has been terrified of everything. As soon as we got her home, she went to her crate, and has only been out once in 48 hours, even though the door has been open 90% of the time. She shakes whenever I or my girlfriend are around. She's not eaten much, even when the food/water is in the crate with her, and has only gone to the bathroom once, on her way to the backyard. Will this fear of everything dissipate over time, or is there something we should be doing now to get her out and about?

    • ANSWER:
      The first person is a little under informed. There is no evidence of abuse, and there is no way to tell how long she will take to respond to rehabilitation.
      What sort of farm was it? "No kill" shelters and puppy mills are not really the best location to get animals. Both advertise themselves as farms, or 'farm raised'. Do some research, it will tell you which direction to take with her.
      Give her some time. Cities can be scary to country animals. It takes some getting used to. She is gonna need lots of love, praise and affection.
      Consider a trainer. Obedience training builds confidence in dogs, and teaches you how to train her without making her worse or you nuts.
      Talk to her. Sit by the crate and offer yummy treats through the crate and talk in a soothing voice. Coo a little.
      It's important to get her on a strict schedule. Eating and bathrooming at the same times everyday. That will cut down on accidents.
      Insist she spend time with the family. Tip her out of the crate, put a leash on her and have her sit with you. This works especially when you are quiet together as a family. In the evenings watching TV or what ever you all do before bed.
      Consider getting a book about rehabilitating rescue dogs. It's not as straight forward as you might imagine.
      Call the farm. They know her best. Ask about her history and her routine. Try to do the same sorts of things.
      Good luck to you all.

  5. QUESTION:
    What crate should I get for my female siberian husky?
    She is 3 months old, I really have no idea how big she is going get since she is my first husky.
    Anyone here have any suggestion how big of a crate I should get for a female siberian husky?

    • ANSWER:
      Joie is the only one who has given you something close to a correct answer.

      My Siberian females do fine in a 300-400 size crate. You DO NOT need to go any bigger, certainly not 48"!!

      For a plastic crate, this will do:
      http://www.dog.com/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=380121%20MD
      Go with the 36"L x 24"w x 26"H

      For a wire crate, choose something with similar dimensions.

      Good luck!

  6. QUESTION:
    How much does it cost to buy all the things your dog needs? (Bed, food, bowls, bones, etc.)?
    For the first day?

    I'm an adult, and I think I found a dog I want to rescue. I just want a ballpark for how much to spend at the pet-store. What is reasonable?

    What do I need to buy?

    • ANSWER:
      At the petstore alone probably around 0, then to the vet in the next 48 hours, another 0. Keep some in the pocked for emergency vet visits too. My shelter expects a donation of at last 0 per dog, dnno about yours though.

      You will need to buy a crate, a cage (if you want to leave the dog home alone and give it some space to roam before it has full house privileges), a leash or two, a collar or two, a long leash, pee pads if house training, doggie poop bags, a dog bed, food bowls, food, a brush, lots of toys, nail clippers, a harness, a dog tag, dog treats, training treats, dog shampoo,

      and thats all I can think of now.

  7. QUESTION:
    How big of a crate needed for 2 pit bulls?
    I have a 5 month old pit bull and a 7 week old pit bull. One is male and one is female. They should grow to be anywhere from 60-90 pounds. They should not be too tall when fully grown. I am looking to purchase a crate for them. The biggest crate I could find was a 48' and it comes with a divider. Would this be large enough to at least keep one, if not the two of them in when full grown? I am pretty much positive it could cofortably keep both of them for at least a few months.
    Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      You should keep them in two separate crates. You never house two dogs of an breed in the same crate, even with a divider. If they get into a fight (which any dogs in the same house will do not matter how well behaved or trained) that divider is not going to stop them. Get them both full size crates they will grow into them. They should have separate 24 wide by at least 25 high. (should be fine since pits are a mid size dog and do not get huge). I kept my Golden Retriever in a crate that size and she was 80 pounds.

      Put a divider in the 7 week olds crate to make it smaller so he does not potty in his crate.

      Never house them together when you are not home. It is not a good idea with any breed.

  8. QUESTION:
    Wheres a good place to find a 48"x31" dog crate?
    I need to find a large dog crate quick!

    • ANSWER:
      Ebay is a good place to look: http://www.ebay.com
      One available now: http://cgi.ebay.com/Canine-Camper-Double-Door-Soft-Dog-Crate-48-x-31-x-35_W0QQitemZ310201387692QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20100219?IMSfp=TL100219125006r12363

      Another is http://www.petsoutlet.net
      http://www.petsoutlet.net/modeng/name/onlinestore/func/viewprod/product/221

      http://puppysupplystore.com is another place http://www.puppysupplystore.com/camper-dog-crate/

  9. QUESTION:
    What would i have to do to raise a siberian husky?
    I am thinking about getting a siberian husky ive never owned a dog before. I want to now what ill need todo regarding vaccinations and other medical stuff. how much will that cost. and i want to know how much will i be spending on food and other things each month for the husky.

    • ANSWER:
      Buying my Siberian cost me about 0, but that is because he had papers so it cost more.
      When I first got him, his puppy exam at the vet was .00.
      His Tracheobronchitis shot was .00
      His DA2PP puppy initial was also .00
      His first lyme disease was .00.

      It turned out he had worms so the fecal lab analysis was .00 and the meds for getting rid of his worms were .00.

      His puppy heart-worm pill was .50 and his <22 lb frontline plus was .00

      I went to a different vet after that and his vaccinations became the DHLPP vaccination boosters but I have lost the paperwork with how much those cost, they were not very much though if I remember correctly.

      His registration papers cost about for simple registration (there are many options)

      He is 9 months old now and I pay about a month for his <50 lbs interceptor heart-worm (he is about 48 to 50 lbs now).
      I pay every 3 months for hartz tick and flea drops (frontline works better but hartz is a lot cheaper).

      He was neutered when he first turned 8 months, the bill breakdown was like this: Pain pills .00, Catheterization .00, IV fluids , Analgesic injection , Anesthesia for first hour , Patient monitoring: , actual neuter surgery 5, elizabethan collar (to not lick wound) .
      I also got optional blood-work on him before surgery that was and microchip placement that was . My total bill was about 385 dollars.

      I feed him Nutro natural choice large breed puppy food. One 35 pound bag costs at petco and lasts me about 2 months or so. If buying from petco, they track how many bags you buy, and your 10th is free, if you buy from a local store, you can sign up online and Nutro will mail you a slip that you give to your local pet store so they can track your dog food and when you get 10 bags they can mail it in for reimbursement for the 10th bag, so either way you can get the 10th for free.

      He tears through toys like no other, but two toys have lasted, one is an orca bone offered by petstages, available at petco, target, etc. The other is a tuff tuff bone, the only fabric toy that he has not torn up, I got mine from petco, the walmart and target similar ones get destroyed within the day.

      My husky is crate trained. When I got him, I used a large crate that I bought from walmart. Save yourself the trouble and buy a more expensive expanding crate that can go up to extra large. Even though he is only 50 lbs, he can not even sit up straight in the large crate, I had to get an extra large one for him, luckily my friend had one they didn't need so I didn't have to pay any more money.

      Depending on your dogs temperament, you may have to think about puppy classes. I've heard the ones at petco and petsmart are around 0 for the basic class. My Siberian was my first dog I've had to take care of all on my own, although I grew up with dogs, it is different when all the work is on you. My Siberian is stubborn and very smart, he learns different and new ways to be annoying all the time. I have not had the need for professional training though by being clear about what I expect from him and consistent with praise and punishment. I socialize him at the dog park every two weeks or so which is free for the park I go to, but some parks do charge 5-10 dollars a day, usually indoor or well monitored parks.

      You need to make sure you can exercise your husky properly. I take my dog on 3-4 1 to 1.5 hour walks a week and on the weekends depending on weather i'll take him on a 6-9 mile hike on Saturday and a 4-6 mile hike on Sunday, plus lots more fetch in the yard. He still has too much energy after all this.

      You also need to be able to contain him without running away. I have a 100 foot run for my Siberian that i use when i'm out in the yard with him. I make sure his collar it tight so he can't slip away and I've had good luck with it. It is best to have a large fenced in yard for your Sibe, and many claim electric fences didn't stop their Siberians.

  10. QUESTION:
    How long will it take my dog and cat to get along?
    Ok, we got an 8 month old Corgi 2 weeks ago & the shelter told us our cat would take time to adjust.

    At first we had a baby gate up to the bedroom so the cat could go in there but not the dog, but then the cat decided never to leave and started using our bedroom closet as a litterbox. So we took down the baby gate and my husband sometimes puts the cat in the kitchen now.

    That has been going on for a week and I see no signs of progress in their relationship. The dog is super curious about the cat and the cat is petrified and gets very angry whenever he sees the dog. He won't come down off the dresser or the kitchen counter unless the dog is outside or in her crate.

    How long will this last? We've tried keeping the dog on a leash in the house, but that is not really practical and the cat doesn't come down anyway. I don't want to take the dog back, but I'm not going to make my cat live on top of the refrigerator for the rest of his life!

    • ANSWER:
      You need to take baby steps... Keep the dog in one room, with the door shut for at least a week. By simply tossing in the dog and cat with each other with no time for them to adjust to their scents is stressing your cat out way too much. Cats do not like drastic changes, and what you did was a drastic change for it.

      Steps to try to make a tolerable relationship for your two pets:
      1) Keep the dog confined to a part of the house. Don't confine your previous animal until it is necessary to do so [see below], they will think you are punishing them and don't know why.

      2) After about 48 hours of separation [in your case maybe even longer since they already had physical contact and it went negatively], switch them out. So put the cat in confinement, and the dog have run of the house... But be sure the two do NOT see each other. And after 2 hours switch them again.

      3) Continue to do the above, every 48 hours, but increase the amount of time each switch. Example: 2 hrs the first time, 4 hours the second, and 6 hours the third... Be sure that you provide your animals with food, water, and the cat with its litterbox when it will be in a room for an extended period of time.

      4) 2 weeks of separation minimum for this case since physical contact was rushed into, and negative reactions ensued. After 2 weeks you can start having supervised visits in the confinement room. Start out slow by having someone hold one animal, and you hold the other and have the meetings last only 2 minutes if even that two times that day. The next day, attempt to increase the amount of time to 4 minutes, two times that day... If there is hostility with either animal you must separate them immediately.

      Any negative actions will greatly affect the outcome. They can get along fine after all this, or they can hate each other and one will have to go. Overall you will need at least a month or maybe even two to try to get your animals to tolerate each other. They may never like each other, they may only tolerate each other's existence, or they may turn out to be best friends.. But next time you want to bring home a new dog/cat, you MUST follow these instructions in order to even have a chance... Just rushing in with physical contact will only cause your animals harm, and will greatly reduce your chances of a happy relationship between the animals.

      To sum up how your cat is feeling right now... It's as if a friend of yours barged into your house [without knocking] and told you this stranger was going to be living with you starting today. He will be eating here, using the bathroom here, taking up your favorite places to relax, sleeping in your bed, and just making a huge mess.. You wouldn't like that, in fact, you'd probably be infuriated with the stranger and your friend. Well that's how your cat feels.. And if it could talk, it'd be saying "What is this thing doing here? Get it OUT!! It smells horrible and it's scary! Get it out of MY territory!!" The cat is pissed off, and scared because there is a new animal in his/her territory. And animals are very territorial.

  11. QUESTION:
    Where to buy a giant breed crate online?
    We have a giant breed puppy that only has another month for before her 48" crate (this is an XL usually) is too small and we want to buy the biggest one we can get (54").

    I've looked on craigslist for months to no avail and petsmart in area does not sell ones this large.

    Anyone have good websites I could order one from?

    • ANSWER:
      I went through a similar problem when I got my great dane. My local stores didnt carry actual crates big enough for him. We decided to get the biggest one they had and that was the 48". It is slightly small for him, but he doesnt get locked up in it unless we have to go out. (He counter surfed)
      This is a forum for giant breed dog owners. www.bigdogsporch.com They have probably been through this similar problem and you may want to ask them to see where they got their crates.

      Here are some crate sites:
      http://www.petcratesdirect.com/dog-crates-starter-series.html
      http://www.bigbreeddog.com/product/FP-MW1154U

  12. QUESTION:
    What are the regulations for having a puppy on an airplane?
    We live in kodiak ak and wer going down to the lower 48 for thanksgiving/christmas with our family. My cat just died and my dad said I could get a golden retriever puppy while wer there. How can we take the puppy back with us on the plane? what are the rules? cant I take the puppy as my carry on? iv seen people with puppies b4

    Has anyone taken their dog with them?

    • ANSWER:
      Depends on size, age, etc. it has to have its shot record, it has to fit in a kennel small enough to fit under your seat which will most likely not happen. It cannot bark during the flight nor come out of its crate, so, you are better off shipping it with your luggage under the plane. The same rules about shots apply there as well. Hope I helped.

  13. QUESTION:
    Where to get a GIANT Air Approved Plastic Travel Crate?
    We've been looking everywhere online for a GIANT Air Approved Plastic Travel Crate. It needs to be at least 42" HIGH. Also referred to as 700 Series. We can find Wire Crates, but we can't use those, it needs to be plastic. I don't need answers like " Check Google " Because we have. Has anyone ever found one, or do they know a site to get one at?

    • ANSWER:
      http://www.doggydogsupplies.com/petmate-varikennel-traditional-pet-crate-giant.html 48" high

      http://www.doggydogsupplies.com/petmate-sky-kennel-dog-crate.html

  14. QUESTION:
    How Long will it take for my dog to get better after her spay sugery?
    Hi Everyone,

    My little girl was spayed on Friday. I know it's only been 3 days but she's still sleeping around. This is normal. She's also looking for places to hide...under the table, under chairs...is she in pain? How long will it be before she's back to her old self?

    Thanks everything....I appreciate all of your advice.

    • ANSWER:
      It can take up to a week or more for a female dog to fully recover from a spay. Age can play a big role in how long recovery takes, as do other factors like size of dog, other health issues, etc. Did your vet give her any antibiotics to take after her spay? What about pain killers? Did they do anything else besides spay her at the same time?

      Usually our vet sends the dogs home with antibiotics and painkillers. If your vet didn't, I would ask him for some for her. Each dog reacts differently to surgery, and he may not know she is not responding as well as you would like to see. Usually, while it can take a week or more to completely recover, most of our dogs going thru the spay process start feeling better in about 24 - 48 hours. You do not want to let her run around for about 10 days, and you should monitor her activity level, and she may rest more frequently until she is well healed. Some dogs will try to hide if they do not feel well. Do you have a crate for your dog? Having a crate is a good thing, especially following surgery because this becomes their den, if you will, and they will feel safer lying in there to recover. Usually we tell our adopters that if the dog is seeking the crate, they are not feeling well and want to be left alone. Allow them time to heal on their own, and fairly soon, you should see some improvement. If she is still trying to hide at the end of the week, something is definately wrong, and you should take her back to the vet. Likewise, if you see any blood spotting or her gums are whiter than pink, or she feels hot to the touch, get her back to the vet immediately.

      If you are not comfortable with how well she is doing, it is always correct to call the vet and discuss it with him or her. You pet's health is important, and just like we don't like going to a Dr who does not respect our feelings, the same should be true for our pets' vet. If you are not happy, seek a second opinion.

      Please keep us posted and let us know how she does.

  15. QUESTION:
    What is the first thing i should do when i bring my chihuahua puppy home?
    im getting a new puppy saturday.. he is a 2 month old chi, i have a 10 month old yorkie at home. im just wondering besides the vet visit i have planned. what should i do at home?

    • ANSWER:
      You're right to place the vet visit as your highest priority and be sure you do that within the first 48 hours to ensure that he is free from any type of disease and to address and evaluate any other potential health issues. After that, just let him get acquainted with the new place. Show him where he'll be staying - whether that be a crate, or small pen, or bathroom or spare room, etc. Show him his bed, toys, wee wee pads, etc and let him explore. Also, get him acquainted with your other dog slowly and be sure you are right there to squealch any aggression problems from your other dog. Whatever, you do, don't overwhelm him. He'll have enough to do just getting used to the new surroundings. Be sure to spend lots of time with him and keep him warm. He will probably want to stick to you like glue for a while since he'll be missing his mom and litter mates. Let him know you're there for him and then start in with potty training. Weather permitting, take him outside, but no farther than you're own backyard until after he's finished his vaccination series. Good luck! You picked a great breed!!!!

  16. QUESTION:
    what pet store has flemish giants, and are they good pets?
    does anyone know a pet store that sells flemish giants, and are they recommended good pets?
    also,what would be a good cage for them? i heard about crates for them, and some people give them rooms all to themselves! or is a normal cage the best idea?

    • ANSWER:
      Most pet stores do not sell flemish giants, they are huge rabbits that eat alot. Most cannot afford a bunch of flemish nor do they have the space for them. I have two flemish giant's. Tubbs and Tess. Buck and doe. In the winter I keep my guys inside in a 54" dog crate, Tubbs is around 25 pounds tess is almost 17. In the summer we have a smaller outdoor kennel where we keep them in our barn. A normal rabbit cage will not fit them fully. I would find it cruel to stuff them in a normal sized cage. The cage needs minimum of 24" high, 36" deep and 48" wide.Bigger the better! A larger door also is needed on the cage to make sure the rabbit can easily be removed.

  17. QUESTION:
    What size cage for dog should I buy?
    Next week I'll have a new family member - Weimaraner.

    I'm not at home from 12am to 3pm so he will have to stay in (inside) cage for 3h . What size cage should I buy for such a big dog?

    • ANSWER:
      Hello,
      It would depend on the reason/purpose of the cage. If your dog/puppy is housebroken and you are not using it for that training purpose, you should buy the largest cage available. This will give your dog/puppy the most room to move, stretch, lay down and get comfy etc...
      I read your question and noticed it was for the time you were away and got the impression it was not for house training reasons. If it is for that purpose you could still buy a very large cage and like another mentioned use a divider (some cages will come with this.) If you use a divider you will want to give your puppy/dog enough room to be able to stand up, turn around and lay down comfortably but no more as this will cause them to be able to pee and/or poo in a back corner and still have the room to move/lay away from the mess. I had purchased a crate and as far as I know it is the largest size made (54 x 48 x 45.) <--- I bought mine and used it for about 5 weeks w/ the divider to help housebreak my puppy, and got rid of it once she was house trained and have never had/felt the need for one since.
      I hope this was helpful and good luck.

  18. QUESTION:
    What height of ex pen should I get for a German Shepherd puppy?
    Getting an 8 week old GS puppy soon and wondering about the height of the ex pen...36 inches okay, or does it need to be taller? I'm just using it in the house when we're home to keep the puppy in it's own little space. Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      36 inches (3 feet) will be perfect for an 8 week old German Shepherd puppy. However, that puppy is going to grow very fast and will be able to climb a 36 in. x-pen with no doubt. 48 inches (4 feet) would be best if you are planning to use it as she gets older and much larger.

      Another idea, which I highly suggest to people, is to crate train. Dogs are den animals. A crate will provide your puppy with a place of his own. When a puppy is left home alone or is not able to be watched 100% then he should be crated for his own safety. Personally, I would never use anything but a crate. My oldest German Shepherd (3 years) is now trusted to be allowed to roam the kitchen when we are gone. My other German Shepherd (1 year) is still too much of a puppy to be completely trusted and she is still crated while we are gone. Neither of them need to be crated at night anymore. My youngest absolutely *loves* her crate and lays in there on her own multiple times per day.

      The down side to an x-pen is that once the puppy grows into a full size German Shepherd, he will easily be able to jump up on the x-pen, move it around, and knock it over. As long as you are home, I don't see a problem with it because you can keep an eye on him. I would not leave him in the x-pen while you are gone though. I suggest hitting two birds with one stone and just buying a crate.

  19. QUESTION:
    I want to stain my wood floor in my living room?
    The problem is, is that the living room is in the middle of the house. There is no way that you can avoid walking through my living room to get anywhere in the house. We also have cats and dogs and I'm not sure how I can prevent them from walking on it for an entire day let along all of us. Am I able to do the floor in sections somehow? Or any other (useful) suggestions?

    • ANSWER:
      You can do it in sections, but there are a few tricks.

      First, remove all the furniture from that room and sand the floor down using a heavy grit sand paper. take a corner of the room and begin staining it. You will most likely need a few coats. Make sure to go to the end of each board and make the point at which you stop staining (the end of that "section") uneven. I.E. don't just stain a perfect rectangle. The idea behind this is that depending on temperature, how well the stain was mixed, or the amount of stain you applied, the color of the floor may differ slightly from section to section so, if you stain in a non-obvious pattern, you won't notice the color change that much. It will take at least 4 days for this job per section. Two days of staining and 48 hours for drying.

      As far as the animals, put milk crates or large objects in the way so they can't get to that area. Or, ask your friends to take them off your hands for a few nights if able! Pet hair and/or foot prints will RUIN this.

      Good luck!

  20. QUESTION:
    How soon should I take my puppy to the vets after getting it?
    Im getting an 8 week old puppy soon and I wasnt sure when to first take him too the vets. Should it be before I take him home, after he has explored my house or just sometime over the first week? Also I know that its just for a general checkup but what sort of things should i ask the vet when I go?

    • ANSWER:
      You should really take him within 48 hours and take a stool sample so they can check for worms and parvo. They will give him his first shots. You should ask about:

      What toys are best?
      What brand of dog food?
      Flea treatments?
      Heartworm Medicine?
      What chew toys are best?
      Neuter/Spay?
      How much to feed puppy?
      How to sociliaze puppy with people/other animals? (very important)
      What to do about chewing?
      Should you crate train?

      You will then have to come back for his second set of shots in less than a month. It really isn't safe to take your puppy to parks/pet stores/ dog parks until he has his second set of shots, he could catch something very easily.

  21. QUESTION:
    Growing Grass on Balcony - Need container to put it in?
    Any suggestions where i might find a shallow container to grow grass in? I want to allow my dog to pee on it on the balcony.

    It needs to be roughly 3ft x 3ft and about 2-4inches deep. If i could find 3 or 4 of them, i would have a nice size grassy area.

    Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Urine will kill the grass, but it doesn't contain acid, and watering the grass well after being urinated on will dilute the urine and help save the grass... but that wasn't your question. A kiddy pool would probably work. Make sure it has drain holes so the grass won't drown when it rains.

      You could also check on the plastic pans designed for the bottom of wire crates, my dogs crate is 48" long as is the plastic tray. You could use 1x4s to frame around it to make it deeper or just build a frame out of 1x4s with a plywood bottom and line it with a plastic liner to slow down rotting and runoff (does need some drainage) You can make a plastic liner out of sheet of plastic sold for window covering or a plastic drop sheet sold in the paint dept. of walmart or any paint store.

  22. QUESTION:
    How do I house train my 11 week old puppy? So that she doesn't pee or poo in the house?
    All tips and website referrals appreciated.

    • ANSWER:
      -- I'm gonna put this into steps --

      Step 1

      There are several methods people use to train their dogs to be proper house dogs. I prefer using several methods. You'll start by feeding your dog on a schedule. Until he or she is completely house broken you won't leave food down for your dog to eat whenever they would like. A schedule is important - your dog needs a routine. A few minutes after your dog eats, put a leash on him or her and take them outside. Your dog will wander around and sniff here and there before doing their business. And it make take some time before they realize why exactly you're taking them out. Use one word to describe the activity - for me I say "potty". "Max, do you need to go potty?" Each and every time that your dog eats - you take him/her out. Routine! Routine! Routine!

      You'll also notice your dog sniffing about or walking circles when they are needing to go out to potty. When you notice this behavior, immediately take them out. Eventually, they'll catch on that the place to potty is outside!

      Step 2

      When you can't supervise your dog, he or she will need to be in a crate. No worries, your dog is fine there. Just be sure that you don't leave them for many hours at a time. The idea is this - a dog doesn't want to use the bathroom in his or her own personal space. At all expense, he or she will wait as long as possible before making a mess in their area.

      Step 3

      Every time you let your dog out of their crate, you take them out...immediately! The leash goes on before they come out. Walk up to the crate, "Potty?", open the door, put the leash on and then go out for them to do their business. When you come back, let your dog play and run as free as possible - always keeping your eye on them! Ask often, "Potty?" Before long, they'll understand and let you know when they have to go by barking or becoming excited when they hear you ask. And finally, they'll let you know before you even ask! If at any time your dog has an accident, scold them firmly - do NOT hit your dog. "No! Bad Dog!" Put them in the crate and walk away. After several moments, take them out on the leash and say "Potty!"

      Step 4

      After a while, you'll see your dog is getting into the swing of things. Instead of putting them in a crate when you can't pay attention to them, put a puppy pad down. The pads are treated with a special chemical that makes the pad appealing for your dog to relieve themselves there. Eventually your dog won't need the crate or the puppy pads!

      -- If you don't use a crate here's another answer --

      1. Get a clean bill of health from your veterinarian. Because a puppy's state of health will affect his ability to be successfully house trained, you should have a vet examine the puppy (or dog) within 48 hours of bringing the puppy home. Conditions, such as bladder infections, can hinder successful house training.

      2. Keeps a regular schedule. Puppies need to urinate shortly after they eat, drink, play, chew, or sleep. For most puppies, over 10 weeks of age, they will go somewhere between 5 and 10 times a day, if not more. Adolescent dogs (6 to 11 months) will need 4 to 6 opportunities to go, if not more.
      3. Estab
      lish a feeding schedule and pick up any remaining food after 10 minutes. What goes in on a schedule, comes out on a schedule.

      4. Do not leave puppies and dogs who are not fully house trained unsupervised. Confine them in a crate when you must leave the house. If properly introduced and used appropriately, crate training is an efficient and humane way to prevent house training accidents and keep the puppy safe. Don't use the crate for excessive amounts of time and never use it for punishment.

      5. Close supervision is essential any time the puppy is not crated when indoors. It only takes a few seconds for a puppy to have an accident, so watch for any and all signs that the puppy may need to go.

      6. Neutralize urine odors with an enzyme-based deodorizer. Dogs are drawn to areas there they've gone before, so it's important to remove all traces of odor. Avoid ammonia-based cleaners because ammonia breaks down to urea, which is a component of urine.

      7. Discipline is not the answer! Never discipline (verbally or otherwise) a puppy for accidents in the house that you did not see or actually witness. The puppy will not understand what he did wrong. (Even if you see your puppy eliminating on the floor, harsh physical punishment is not necessary.) Rubbing his no in it, scolding, or hitting will only teach him to avoid you when he feels the need to go; it can also teach the puppy to find hidden areas in the house to go to the bathroom. -- & I'm saying you do hit ur dog.

      8. Accidents do happen. Most dogs cannot be considered reliably house trained until they are at least 6 months to 1 year old. Upsets in schedules, moving to a new house, changes in food, illness, and even teething may contribute to temporary lapses in house training. Outside stress, such as weather changes, may also upset your dogs house training process.

      9. If you don't give your puppy the opportunity to ever eliminate on the floor from the start, he will never know anything but pottying outside.

      Here's a few good websites I recommend:
      http://www.the-puppy-dog-place.com/house-training-puppy.html

      http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080703034202AARgqJS

      http://www.ehow.com/how_32_house-train-puppy.html

      http://www.puppytrainingtips.org/57

      http://www.thedogtrainingsecret.com/puppy-potty-training

      http://hubpages.com/hub/House-Train-Your-Dog

  23. QUESTION:
    I bought a 48 in cage for my 5 month GSD but at night when i leave him he cries and screams?
    How can i get him to stop?
    Hes only in the cage at night during the day he is out of the cage. If i dont leave him in a cage he will bite stuff he has a bone and a toy in his cage.

    • ANSWER:
      You have left out HEAPS of important information.
      Start with how old he was when you got him, how long you have been using the crate, whether he likes to snooze in it during the day while its door is wide open. Add how many sessions you have been in at the training club where you get coached each week on how to become an effective trainer (you SHOULD have started while he was 18-22 weeks old). Add what sort of nature he has on a scale from "Hi, soon-to-be-my-friend" to "HELP - protect me please, Dad".
      And WHY doesn't he chomp things during the day, seeing as he does at night?

      My suspicion is that he is an anxious dog. In which case there will be an improvement if you switch him to a basket or sheep-skin rug beside your bed, where you can rub him whenever he is restless.

      But you haven't actually TOLD us enough for any of us to prescribe a definite course of action.

      My dogs never see a crate unless they have to travel. My last pup came inside at 8½ weeks and had the run of the house 24/7, because I that afternoon trained her to use a wad of newspaper, and made sure she could access it while I was getting my 8 hours of snoozing. No "accidents". But I had retired by then so (apart from shopping trips) was always home to refresh her as to "Dad's Rules".

      ◙ Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source to your browser's Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as rescue groups, feeding, vaccinations, worming, clubs, teething, neutering, size, diseases, genetics.

      ◙ To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with them. Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos in your messages.
      Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
      "In GSDs" as of 1967

  24. QUESTION:
    At what age does a puppy get its shots?
    I have an 8 week German Shepherd puppy, I really want her to socialize with other dogs, but she needs her shots first, when should I give her the shots???

    And if a dog has its shots, is it ok to let my puppy play with it???
    My friend has a chihuahua and I want my dog to play with him, he has all of his shots, is it safe for her to play with him????

    • ANSWER:
      Great age to get a pup!
      Bad idea about playing with other dogs.....

      Vaccinations should be no further apart than 4 weeks, no closer together than 3 weeks.
      • Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_GSD_Source to your browser's Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as feeding, vaccinations, clubs, weights, teething, neutering, disorders, genetics.
      It takes 2 weeks before you can hope that the first shots take effect (if the passive immunity from the dam was still high, that will destroy the attenuated virus before it can train the immune system). Many vets (and their insurance cos!) are old fashioned and would rather over-vaccinate than risk being sued for under-vaccinating. If you are in an area where the govt requires rabies vaccinations, delay as long as is legal, then get the certificate for 3 years - and donate to the Rabies Research group listed in the Vaccinations section of the group above!
      Another dog's shots make IT unlikely to suffer a virus attack, but don't stop its feet & coat from carrying the virus to YOUR pup & infecting her.

      Check whether you are in a heartworm area - if you are, you need to put your pup on the preventative, as killing adult heartworms usually results in their corpses blocking the dog's heart valve.

      If it is more than 12-13 days since Pup was dosed for roundworm, get the cheapest chemical for roundworm and dose Pup every 12-13 days until, twice in a row, there has been no sign of "broken rubber bands" in her faeces during the 48 hours after the dosing.

      Your first 2 tasks are to learn Pup's timing & signals, and convince her that the world is a fun, safe place and that YOU (not other dogs, not strangers) are the centre of everything good in the universe,.
      At 8 weeks, it is common for pups to, 1 minute after waking and 3 minutes after eating/drinking, start making anxious nose-down circles. You immediately CARRY Pup to the designated toilet area and wait boringly still & silent (don't let those teeth chatter!) until Pup remembers that she wanted to go toilet. As soon as she finishes, praise (include her name & the future command word) & reward (pats, rubs, or a game) before going inside.
      Also learn her signal for "Wanna BITE something!"

      I HOPE you have a plan for her sleeping that does NOT involve a locked crate. Pups need to exercise their fast-growing bones & muscles the whole time they're awake. Well-bred well-reared pups arrive with an instinct to get away from their nest before piddle-pooing. Catch 22: A crate small enough to invoke that instinct is too small to exercise in. An enclosure big enough to exercise in is big enough to go toilet in.

      Learn that "socialisation" has NOTHING to do with playing with other dogs or people.
      A more accurate term would be "familiarisation".
      You have until Pup turns 13 weeks (the end of the "confident & curious" period, start of the "need security" period that should end when pup turns 17 weeks) in which to familiarise her with every movement, reflection, scent, sight, sound & texture in your environment, always introducing them from a distance that PUP considers safe. When Pup notices a "new & possibly scary thing" you just stand still and silent (NO "soothing" her) UNTIL Pup decides to either ignore it or - better - investigate it. Either way, you then praise Pup as she starts moving again, and reward her with a rub or pat if she is close
      Until 2 weeks after the first shots you keep pup on YOUR property.

      You then take her to areas where dogs do NOT run loose, do NOT piddle-poo-vomit, and mostly let her explore in all directions at once on the end of a long lead, calmly hauling her away from disgusting things or scared humans.
      Learning to walk at Heel can wait until you are in a training club class (forget pet shop play groups) - book NOW for one that will start when Pup is 18-22 weeks old. There YOU are coached to improve your use of "the voices", posture aka body language, balance, timing, rewards vs reprimands. At the same time Pup learns to pay attention regardless of what other dogs & people are doing.

      • To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with GSDs. Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos.
      Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
      "In GSDs" as of 1967

  25. QUESTION:
    Are there any suitable cages for rabbits besides C&C cages or other homemade cages?
    I know C&C is the best, but if making a cage isn't an option for me, what's a good, large, durable cage for a rabbit? Links would be helpful. thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      I don't really know of any. Some of the hutch-style cages are big enough, especially the ones with a pen attached to the side. They are intended for outdoor use, but if you live in the US, it's pretty much a no-no to keep rabbits outdoors unless you live way up north.

      I used to volunteer for a rabbit rescue here in Houston, and most of the other volunteers kept their rabbits in indoor pens instead of cages. The exercise pens made for dogs work well, especially if you take the time to potty-train your rabbit.

      http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-31461-42730-smpet.jpg

      Also, some people will use large dog crates. You know, the metal ones? The exact size depends on your bunny. For example, I had a 6 pound lop and she lived in a 48" dog crate until I got her a pen.

  26. QUESTION:
    Have you ever taken your animal on a road trip?
    1800 mi away to be exact? And are their hotels that will let animals in?

    • ANSWER:
      One of my dogs has over 500,000 miles of "road trip" under him. :) I used to drive a semi truck long distance and he rode with me the entire time, a little more than 5 years. He's also "marked his territory" in all of the lower 48 US states- it's a running joke amongst my friends :) My 2nd dog we adopted about 2 years before I came off the road. She's got about 150,000 miles under her.

      So yes....road tripping with animals can be done & can be fun as long as you're prepared.

      Plenty of hotels allow animals. Virtually all Motel 6's allow them, a lot of Super 8's do....Holiday Inns and Days Inns vary on their policy. LaQuintas usually allow pets. Red Roof Inns sometimes do. You can plan your route with any mapping software, and once you have an idea of where you will be stopping overnight, you can get online & find hotels in the area, so you can check in advance for pet policies. Often times there is a pet deposit, or a limit on the size of the animal in question. I know if you come prepared with a crate, that is often enough for the hotel manager to approve your pet, even if you have a larger dog than what it says on the policy.

      If you're riding in a car, it's best to crate the animals for their safety and for yours. It keeps them from running all over the car & being a distraction, keeps them from being able to jump out when you stop along the way, and it keeps them safe in the event of a wreck. If your pets aren't used to being crated, it helps to get them accustomed to it before you take the trip.

      Bring along gallon jugs of water from home, or give your pets bottled water along the way. Giving your pet tap water from a bunch of different places can potentially cause diarrhea. Different places have different water sources & treatment methods, and it can cause havoc with their systems. Better safe than sorry.

      Personally, I preferred to feed my dogs after the day's trip was done. It really didn't make a huge difference to my pups because they didn't get motion sickness. But if you think you might have tummy trouble with your animals, try feeding their meals at night instead of in the morning before you leave.

      Make sure your pets have tags on their collar with current contact information- especially cell phone numbers so that if they get lost on the road, someone can reach you. You can make a temporary tag with some masking tape & permanent marker- just put it over their current tags or tape it to their collar.

      Keep an emergency contact sheet in your glove box with contact numbers for family & instructions on what to do with your animals in the event you're in a wreck & are unable to give that info to emergency workers yourself. I always kept my dogs' vet records, photos, and two small slip-leashes in the door pocket of my truck along with explicit instructions on who to call & what to do with them. God forbid you get in a wreck and are hurt, the welfare of your pets is going to be a secondary concern to emergency personnel. And if there are no numbers or instructions for their care, they will be taken to a county shelter until someone is able to claim them.

      Good luck and have a safe trip- any more questions feel free to contact me.

  27. QUESTION:
    how exactly does someone ship a puppy?
    say the buyer is in a diff country.. how would the owner ship the pup?
    I would never buy a puppy w.o ever seeing it prior to buying it.

    • ANSWER:
      Oh boy. There is a HUGE puppy scam going on right now in which a puppy appears to be FREE except for shipping costs, That is most definitely a SCAM.

      However, there are many breeders, some good and some not so good, who will ship puppies.

      A REPUTABLE breeder would not EVER ship you a puppy unless they knew you personally. WILL NOT HAPPEN.

      Please, please tell me that you are not thinking about buying a puppy over the internet. That is a puppy mill, plain and simple.

      If you are dealing with a reputable breeder who knows you, then shipping a puppy by air takes a lot of work and expense.

      The dog has to have been cleared by a vet to fly within 24-48 hours of flight.

      The dog has to have been cleared for acclimation to temperatures anywhere the flight could touch down (direct flights do have groundstops sometimes).

      You have to pay for an airline approved crate with the proper attachments (usually feeding bowls).

      The dog can only be flown on days that will be within acceptable temperature ranges in all locations that the dog will or could be on the ground. ( Miss that temperature window due to the vagaries of Mother Nature and back to the vet to be re-certified. Airline policy to protect them from liability. You can pay for that vet certification visit several times before your dog actually boards a plane, depending on season.)

      If it is an international flight, you have to meet customs standards in the receiving location, which may involve a lengthy quarantine (up to 6 mos), and a strict vaccination protocol that may be entirely unknown and unnecessary in the country of origin.

      The dog may need a special international 15 digit microchip prior to shipping.

      All of this will cost you between 0 and 0 dollars, minimum, over and above the cost of the puppy. .

      I can't imagine why you'd need to ship a puppy internationally, Nor can I imagine that many reputable breeders would do it.

  28. QUESTION:
    Is it okay to give my dog another bath?
    I took her a bath on Saturday then another yesterday in dish soap because I found out she has fleas. Can I take her another bath today because I just washed everything today including her bed,blankets and toys.

    • ANSWER:
      Do not give your dog another bath. It will make he/shes skin even more irritated/dryed out and itchy and will only wash away the adult fleas, possibly.

      I would go out and buy frontline. It kills the eggs in the pets skin to control any more adult fleas. But if you give it to the dog, dont give your pet another bath in more than 48 hours. (as directed on box)

      PS:Dishwashing soap is awful for dogs skin! Sorry:)
      PPS:If your dog has fleas bad, vacuum the house carpets, clean ALL blankets that are being used and even vacuum pillows, besdskirts, and baseboards! It sounds like a lot, but it will be worth it in the long run!! Wait 48 hours, buy frontline, apply, and wait! Good luck!

      edit:I just read that you cant afford frontline, gosh..thats tricky. Try to work up just 45 dollars. It will be SOO worth it. Its better that stress, wasting other money, and its easy! Vacuum EVERY DAY! Try combing your dog a ton! If you have any crates or long leashes, put your dog outside instead of inside where fleas will develop even more in your house.

      Sorry! Sounds soo tough! I'd send yousome frontline if I could!!!

  29. QUESTION:
    how long does it take to get paper work to ship a puppy?
    if i wonted to get a puppy from south carolina and put it on a plane with me how long would it take to get the paper work and all that to be able to do that?
    if i wanted to get a puppy in south carolina and bring it to the bahamas where i live but dont want to spent a lot of time filling out paper work what would i do?
    i am really woried because i really want a puppy but the breed i want is sooooooooo expensive over here i want a pomeranian,maltese or a dachound
    where should i put the dog in with my bags or on the plane?
    please and some more help i really need it:)

    • ANSWER:
      OK, i have shipped puppies before, all you have to do is take it to the vet, get a health certificate and make sure it has it's age appropriate vaccinations. Then you just have to verify that the airline will ship to the location you want... then it usually costs 5-0 to ship depending on the size of the dog. You have to have it in an airline approved crate, the shot records and the health certificate. When you buy the ticket they will tell you where you need to take the dog to, and what time you need to have it there by. They recommend that the dog not have eaten for a few hours before the flight, when I did it, I made sure it hadn't eaten for 6 hours prior to avoid it needing to defecate or throw up on the flight. Also, make sure they know not to give the dog water on the plane. It can have water before the flight, and on lay overs if they are flying for more than 3-4 hours. Most airlines will not ship a live animal if the temperature is more than 85 degrees.
      The paperwork is an office visit length... Just need to have the name and address of where it's going with you when you get the health certificate... no big deal at all... Just make the appointment for a health certificate... easy as that. I will email you with shipping information about sending an animal to the bahamas...

      Information included here:
      Bahamas:

      Embassy of the Bahamas
      (202) 319-2660
      Fax: (202) 319-2668
      2220 Massachusetts Avenue, NW
      Washington, DC 20008

      An import permit is required from the Ministry of Agriculture, Trade and Industry (Nassau) for all animals being brought into the Commonwealth of The Bahamas.

      For the U.S. and Canada, the following are the main provisions of the import permit as it applies to dogs and cats:

      The animal must be 6 months of age or older.

      The animal must be accompanied by a valid certificate which substantiates that it has been vaccinated against rabies within not less than 1 month and not more than 10 months prior to importation.

      The animal must be accompanied by a Veterinary Health Certificate presented within 48 hours of arrival in the Commonwealth of The Bahamas to a licensed veterinarian for an examination.

      THE PERMIT IS VALID FOR 90 DAYS FROM THE DATE OF ISSUE.

      www.bahamas.com/travel_tips/index.html for more information.

  30. QUESTION:
    what size crate should i get if i have a bull mastiff?
    im thinking about getting a bull mastiff and i need to look at crates and i was wondering what size should i get??
    thank you very much
    chelsea

    • ANSWER:
      If the dog is under 110lb.to 115lb. then you should go with a 48"D x 35"H x 30"W. However, if he/she is over this then go with a 54"L x 45"H x 37"W. Have fun with your big puppy!! :)

  31. QUESTION:
    My dog has pneumonia and will not eat. What do I do?
    My beagle, Baby, was taking to the hospital last thursday for pneumonia. She spent 48 hours there and was released. She hasnt eaten anything since last wednesday besides what we are force feeding her. She is on two types of antibiotics but not getting any better. She still has a very runny nose and is coughing alot. All she does is lay around and It worries me to death. We are taking her back to the vet Thursday for a new set of x-rays. Does anyone know how long it usually takes for a dog with pneumonia to get better?

    • ANSWER:
      The main thing is do not let her get dehydrated.Try to force Pedolite,Yogurt,baby food ,Karo and water anything to get down her .Try at least every hour or two.Also put her in the bathroom with a steam vaporizer and kaz ,also run hot water in the shower and steam the room this will help loosen the phlegm.If she is not on cough syrup go to store and get something for children that says helps loosen up congestion or phlegm and give her a dropperful 2x per day.If you have her in a crate or cage put the cage up higher than the floor and put the vaporizer below.Put a towel over the cage to create a tent type effect.If not better in am see vet asap.She will need Intravenous fluids and possible breathing TX. Good luck and God Bless

  32. QUESTION:
    Where can I buy a replacement tray to go in the bottom of my dog cage/crate? Preferably plastic, in the UK.?
    The cage is roughly 48" X 30" X 32" (121cm X 76cm X 82cm. Somewhere in the Yorkshire area, or postable. Or is there any way I can replace it myself? The original metal tray isn't really usable anymore. Thanks :)

    • ANSWER:
      There is a large store on Armley Road in Leeds (sorry cannot remember the name) & if it is available they will be able to get hold of it. Hope this helps a little.

  33. QUESTION:
    Does anyone have one of those cooling beds for dogs? Do they work?
    I have a German Shepherd that loves (like most) to lay on something cool. Has anyone bought one of those cooling beds made for dogs. Some are water beds and some claim to keep the dog cool. I don't want to invest in one if my dog hates it or it doesn't keep him cool. I love to spoil my dog :)

    • ANSWER:
      I run Agility in the hot SW. I know something about every kind of dog cooling device made. lol The cooling pads that are like a gel inside, brand Canine Cooler, are incredibly heavy & don't keep the dogs very cool in my opinion. They also get hot if left in the sun or in a crate in the van. But they do make a super nice crate pad for the dog's joints. The cooling pads that are filled with channels of the beads that you soak in water & they puff up, they work fairly well. They stay wet inside & cool for 48 hrs or so before you have to re-wet them. The newest ones I have seen have channels inside & there is a battery operated device that circulates ice water through them. They sound like they would be awesome, but when I laid my arm on them to test, I wasn't really impressed. And you have to have the battery & the ice water reservoir. Just too much equipment & trouble IMHO for not that much cooling.
      Source(s):
      personal experience

  34. QUESTION:
    Will My Dog Be Ok, Alone For 24 Hours On A Regular Basis?
    I have a 2 year old boxer, and I am about to start working as a firefighter. The hours are 24 hours Straight at the firehouse. Then 48 off at home. I live alone, and I do not know anyone trustworthy who likes dogs. And I am afraid that he may not be ok alone for 24 hours on a regular basis.

    • ANSWER:
      Most of these answers are opinions based on a perceived idea of facts.

      You have stated nothing about your home or your dog.

      Is your dog completely potty trained? Is he a mostly indoor dog? Does he free feed or does he eat meals at certain times?

      Do you live in a house or an apartment? Do you have a fenced backyard? Do you have a doggie door?

      If he a) free feeds, b) has a couple supplies of water in case he knocks one over, c) you live in a house with a doggie door and a secure backyard, d) he is potty trained and isn't in a crate all day, and e) he has plenty of chew toys, then really, he will be fine. He might get lonely, and he might tear up a few things out of frustration, so make sure to not leave things (remotes, shoes, socks, food, trash) lying within reach, but, he will be fine...you will have 48 hours to spend with him.

      If any one of the above criteria does not exist, then, really, you need to hire a pet sitter service on your days on. They are usually inexpensive and reliable. Shop around for one; there are usually tons.

      If he is a 100% outside dog or kenneled when you aren't home dog, then really, it's kind of a crappy situation, so either have the pet sitter visit several times on your days on, or train him to be an inside dog without being crated all day.

      The reality is most dog owners work 8-10 hours a day, and sleep another 8 hours, that leaves 6-8 hours to get to work, do all the things they do in a day, deal with family, kids, spouses, housework, errands, etc., so, in reality, probably spend an hour of quality time with their dog, if that. So, all these people that are putting you down need to have a severe reality check. You, on the other hand, will be home every 24 hours for 2 full days, without leaving for a daily job, to make up that quality time.

      The person who suggested taking your dog to the station has a good thought....I know several stations around here allow dogs to come to work also.

      Take your dog to work, enlist a good pet service, make him an indoor dog, enjoy your new job and ignore this "horrendous" drivel; you just need to make sure his needs are provided for in those 24 hours you are gone.

      Now, the person that left their dog for a week with no one checking on him...yeah, now THAT is horrendous.

  35. QUESTION:
    Soft Dog Crate that Exceeds 33in in Height?
    Hi, I have an English Mastiff and his current crate which is 33in is starting to be too small for him. His head rubs and his back rubs. Id prefer the cloth instead of wire because its lighter for me to carry and more portable. Can anyone help me find a portable/soft crate that is around 33-54in in height?

    • ANSWER:
      You mentioned that your dog's crate was starting to get too small so I am assuming he is not fully grown. The largest soft-sided dog crate I have seen was 36" inches tall. The tallest wire crate is also 36". May I suggest a soft sided dog exercise pen which is lightweight and portable at 48" tall. Good luck in your search.

  36. QUESTION:
    Whats the best about a Yorkie?
    I want you know what the best and worst things there are about owning a Yorkshire Terrier? I am thinking about getting one and want to know what im getting myself into. Do they yelp a lot and are they playfull? I know you all may love your dogs but i want to know everything esp. the cute things they do and also the annoying things.

    • ANSWER:
      My yorkies are very playful and have lots of little toys to play with. They love belly rubs and getting treats. You will have to do training with them but mine like to train so they can get a little training treat. I have one that hop up and down when she see's me bringing food to her bowl. Mine also love to go riding in the car. They are very curious so you have to watch and make sure they do not get into something they should not. Yes they like to bark but with the right training they will not do this. They need exercise, if they get the right amount they will not be so hyper. They work it all off during exercise and playing. One thing to read up on is hypoglycemia because it can happen so you need to know the cause and symptoms to watch for and also the things to give them when or if it occurs. I have not had any problems with it as of yet. Another thing you need to do is brush their teeth, I know it sounds silly but Yorkies are prone to tooth decay. Once you do it a few times they will get used to it, but let them smell the brush and paste before you put it in their mouths. One of the hardest thing I have encountered is potty training, some people say you cannot train them but all mine go outside. A crate is a great training tool, and it is not cruel unless you leave them locked up for long periods of time. Mine love their crates and I will say go get in your bed and there they go. I will say it's time to go night-night and they know what that means. I put blankets in there and a chew bone and they are all set. Mine love to go for rides in the car but I do have one that will get car sick if she rides too much. One trick I have learned about the potty training, we tied a bell on a string around the door knob and take their paw and ring it and say ring the bell and then take them outside. So after a while of doing this they will go ring the bell to let you know I have to go. I do let mine sleep in the bed with me when my hubby is away. They think they are real special when they do this. I know my older girl is a real girly dog, she loves sweaters and t-shirts and will stick her head through them when I stretch out the neck. She also likes her bows and barrettes. One of mine is really shy and timid but we are working through that. They are wonderful watch dogs and will let you know if someone is at the door. With good training and disipline they will be great dogs. Also make sure you buy from a good breeder so they will be healthy and you can go look where they are being kept. If it's clean and free of feces then you know they are being taken care of. Also be sure to take them to the vet within 48 hours of the sale and make sure you read any contracts you have to sign. I hope you enjoy your puppy if you decide to get one. They are like my children, spoiled but still mind. Oh Coco, Aries and Nina say Hi.
      Take care

  37. QUESTION:
    What to expect - Military move to Hawaii?
    My husband and I will be moving to hawaii (military) I had some questions in regards to it. It's also our very first big move

    I hear its more expensive there, just how much more expensive?

    Would it be in our best interest to live on or off base?

    I'm hearing of OCONUS but I'm not sure what it is and/or how it differs from BAH

    How long does it usually take for a car and furniture to get there and HOW does it all get there?

    Is it best to take our car or just buy one there?

    Do we have to register our vehicles in HI or our drivers licenses?

    Any issues to expect flying our dog? (We are aware of the 5 days or less program and our husky only flying in certain temperatures)

    • ANSWER:
      CONUS - Continental United States, OCONUS - Outside Continental United States. Hawaii and Alaska are outside the lower 48 so they are considered to be OCONUS locations, BUT they are still US States so therefore you get BAH w/dependents. OHA is paid when you are outside the 50 States.

      Yes it is expensive in Hawaii but it depends on where you are coming from to how much. Places like New York, San Fran, San Diego, etc... are all expensive than other places. In Hawaii you get OCONUS COLA which is a Cost of Living Allowance which will MORE than make up for the price difference. Plus you have several commissaries and exchanges to purchase from, so you can actually bank some of the COLA if you budget and use it for trips.

      He will be authorized a few days of TLE (Temporary Lodging) when leaving and then up to 60 days of TLA when arriving in Hawaii. The difference is TLE will only cover the hotel up to a certain amount while TLA will cover hotel & food. With TLA if you are offered a house and turn it down then you have 10 days to find a place then it stops. He will need to file for TLA every 10 days for a refund and it will come quickly.

      Base living it really depends on where he is stationed and the size of your family. If it is just the two of you then it can be just as easy to live out in the area as long as you are not too far from the base/post. Some housing is actually not on base/post so he does have to drive to work. Make sure your rental is at least 0 under the BAH so you can include utilities and gas. If you have a dog/cat then make sure you take that into consideration for pet deposit and sometimes it can then be better on base/post. The cost of taking the dog with you is out of pocket, so use the DLA for it. They will refund up to 0 in quarantine costs.

      YES take your vehicle, they do ship one for free for you. As long as it is in good condition. http://www.whereismypov.com is the link to the website as you will be required to take the vehicle to one of the locations. It can take up to 6 weeks to get your vehicle so make sure you do try and ship it as soon as possible and borrow one from a friend/family member. If you need a rental car while there then use Enterprise on base/post as it is cheaper. This is out of pocket as well for expenses. Register your vehicle in Hawaii is actually cheap, he needs to get a slip from his command and then you take it to registration. If you need another car then buy one from the lemon lots on base/post.

      You will be authorized 2 shipments of things. The first is Express shipment where they will come and pack up your basic essentials such as pots/pans, small TV (under 19"), air mattress, towels, etc... and it is shipped immediately for you. The second is the remaining HHG, the movers will come pack up your things, place them into crates and they will be shipped via a train or truck to the location and then freighter to Hawaii. Depending on where you are moving from and what time of year it can be anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks. Summer from the East Coast then expect up to 8 weeks for example.

      Your spouse never has to change his Driver's License while for you it depends on the State. Hawaii is one that will allow you to keep the license from the previous state or your Home State.

      Just have an open attitude, be respectful, get out and do things (just not all at once) and you will be fine. Pearl-Hickam offers a Welcome class that will give a lot of information about the area which can be helpful. He should have a sponsor which will give some information as well.

  38. QUESTION:
    Which size crate for a German Shepherd Dog?
    I know they say measure the dog, but I don't have the dog yet.

    60-70 pound adult German Shepherd dog.

    Do I get a 42" crate or a 48" Crate?

    Stupid question, but I just can't decide! I guess bigger can't hurt, but it takes up more space in my house. Anyone have a 60-70 pound Shepherd?

    Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      You need a crate that is big enough for your dog to stretch and turnaround comfortably. I would get the largest one you can find. He might light to lay on his side with his legs outstretched, etc.

  39. QUESTION:
    I might get a pekingese puppy what supplies and care do I need to provide?
    i might be getting a pekingese puppy thats all
    its also adopted has its shots and its about 5 years

    • ANSWER:
      Supplies:

      Crate (big enough for dog to sit/stand/turn/lay)
      Plain Buckle Collar
      Six Foot Nylon or Leather Leash
      Food Bowl
      Water Bowl
      Carpet Cleaner
      Towels (or a cut up blanket - for the crate until he's potty trained)
      ID Tag
      License
      Brush
      Nail Clippers
      Toys

      You will also need a vet check anywhere from 24-48 hours after you get the pup. The pup may need shots right off. Eventually you will need a rabies tag.

      I would avoid training aids (harnesses, chain collars, etc). I would avoid retractable leashes (dangerous with untrained animals). I would avoid potty pads (utterly useless). Look into training classes.

      This puppy will need potty trained (taken out every hour or so for a while, slowly increasing). It will need to be taught manners (no jumping, barking, etc). It will need some basic obedience training. Pekingese dogs need daily grooming and frequent trips to a groomer for professional clipping. Vet care is usually once or twice a year for shots, but emergencies or illness/injury can crop up at any time.

      http://www.canismajor.com/dog/firstsix.html
      http://www.canismajor.com/dog/bring01.html

  40. QUESTION:
    whats the best way to potty train my 15 week old chocolate lab puppy?
    I bought my puppy Miles about a month ago and for the most part he knows he has to go outside but he wont let me know...I use the same door and repeat the phrase "lets go outside" everytime we go to go out but he is still having random accidents (#1 and 2) I have been crate training him with a barrior in the middle so he dosen't have access to the whole cage but when I woke up this morning at 9am his usual wake up time he went 1 and 2...My boyfriends uncle swears by keeping the puppy in the cage for 48 hours straight only letting him out once on the hour and keeping him out for 15 minutes eachtime but Im scared that will just make him hate his cage...and info would be much appreciated! should I try the 48 hr. trick? help!

    • ANSWER:
      A puppy that small needs to learn to hold his bladder. Yes, dogs can hold it for a very long time, but 48 hours is just mean, if you ask me. My dog used to wake me at all hours of the night. It started at 2am, then it went to 3am, then 4am, then it turned to where she held it through the night. I think crate training is the best way to go, you just have to be patient.
      I know a lot of people think crates are cruel, but I think dogs are fine in them myself. I think they are great for potty training as well. I found that to also to be the easiest and fastest method to potty train my dogs. You already have the idea with the crate being blocked off so he doesn't potty in one side and sleep in the other. When you get home from work, you will let him outside to potty, first thing, and leave him out there until he does his business. If he doesn't and seems determined to come inside, let him back in but put him right back in his crate. Leave him in there for a short while and let him right back outside. Dogs in general are smart and want to please you. Just make sure to give lots of praise when he goes potty outside. Don't punish him in his crate if he potties inside, or does anything bad really, have a seperate place for that, because if you do then he looks at the crate as a bad place, and it's not a bad place. :) Hope that helps

  41. QUESTION:
    what size crate for golden retriever?
    I'm about to buy a soft crate for my dogs agility classes. I was wondering what size is good. She isn't a huge golden, she weighs about 60 lbs. There are 2 sizes:
    36 inches L x 24 inches W x 27 inches H
    42 inches L x 28 inches W x 31 inches H
    I will be moving this around a lot so I would go for the smaller one but I want her to be comfy. Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      If it were up to USDA, the dog would have to have enough room to invite over all of his friends, have a BBQ, go for jog, play some frisbee, and have about 5 area codes. Here's reality:

      Varikennel #100 21"x16"x15"H,
      Actual CrateWeight: 7 Lb
      Cats, Toy Poodles, Yorkshire Terriers, Chihuahuas, Shih Tzus

      Varikennel #200 27"x20"x19"H
      Actual Crate Weight: 15 Lb
      Beagles, Shelties, Min. Poodles, Cockers, Lhasa Apsos

      Varikennel #300 32"x22"x23"H
      Actual Crate Weight: 18 Lb
      Springers, Border Collies, Bull Dogs

      Varikennel #400 36"x24"x26"H
      Actual Crate Weight: 23 Lb
      Boxers, Dalmatians, Collies, Airdales, Setters, Aust. Shepherds, Dobermans

      Varikennel #500 40"x27"x30"H
      Actual Crate Weight: 27 Lb
      Afghans, Retrievers, Pointers, Shepherds, Rottweilers

      Varikennel #700 48"x32"x35"H
      Actual Crate Weight: 44 Lb
      Irish Wolfhounds, Newfoundlands, St. Bernards, Mastiffs, Greyhounds

  42. QUESTION:
    Cost to send a dog by air?
    I have been looking and I have only found information on sending a dog either as baggage or cargo, but no actual costs. I need to send a (approx) 115lb, 32" high dog from Medford, Oregon to Fayetteville, North Carolina. I have information on how to do it and several companies that ship dogs, but I need an actual price. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      You will need to speak with the individual carriers about their prices for the proposed route.

      In addition to the cost of the flight itself, you will also need to pay for/provide:

      -Veterinary certification that the dog is cleared to fly and cleared for the ground temperature at the departing airport, the destination airport, and any groundstops the plane makes along the way. This can get expensive because you need the certification within 48 hours of travel time, and if the temperature window is missed, you will need to get re-certified.

      -An airline approved crate with the feeding and watering bowls that attach to the crate door.

      -Absorbent bedding for the crate.

  43. QUESTION:
    Siberian Husky: What has been your experience with them?
    At what age did you get him/her?
    What age are they now?
    What has been your general experience with them?
    What are the negatives? What are the positives?

    • ANSWER:
      I have owned 5 Siberian Huskies. 2 for less than a yr - they were gifts from my mom we were unable to keep.
      First pair were 3 when I got them. Bambi and Balto
      The female had been killing the owners shitzus (however you spell that) and they didn't want to break up the pair. They had bought them for their daughter to train and show in 4H but it didn't work out - they couldn't control her around other dogs and he was to strong and full of energy for the girl to handle. Balto was very friendly and loving but would jump a fence in a heartbeat and run off whenever he had the chance. Despite having other dogs to play with and toys he always "ate" his water buckets - he would chew up a 5 gallon bucket in less 48 hours. He was fine with other dogs and kids. We would even leash him up to a small sled and let him run pulling my little brothers around the yard. When he was 6 he jumped a 5 foot fence and we were never able to find him again. Bambi was never good with other dogs and would attack - especially other females. She was extremely territorial. We had a border collie she "struck an agreement" with and as long as each stayed on their half of the yard they did not have issues. She would constantly go after my sisters 2 Siberian Husky females through the fences (both of them were dominant and territorial as well). The only other dog she ever tolerated was her daughter. She lived to 15.

      My 5th was Bambi and Balto's Daughter - Callie
      She was raised from a pup. As the smallest of 6 dogs in the family she was never the dominant dog and so was easy to train. I had to go away to college for a few years. She escaped my family many times and learned to hunt and survive on her own for one to two weeks at a time before the found her and brought her home - it seems she felt since I wasn't there she had no reason to be there. After 2 yrs of seeing me for a couple days and then not again for weeks she developed and severe separation anxiety when I was able to move her back in with me. She destroyed things if I left her and so she rode everywhere in the car with us. She is happiest outside but did live 2 yrs as an indoor apartment dwelling dog. She was great and house trained easily even though the first time she lived indoors was when she was 6. I still have her she is 12 yrs old now and stay outside of her own free will even in the dead of winter. She is still very high energy and many people think she is a puppy. Her thing is digging - there are holes all over our yard and nothing will keep her in a pen if she wants to be out - we have found having another dog with her keeps her at home. Like her dad she loves to chew but is content with bones and rawhides and whatever else we give her - nothing last longer than a day or 2. We hired a trainer to help us deal with the separation anxiety (didn't work by the way) He told us to get a certain kind of bone and it would last for weeks - she finished it in an hour. She has even chewed through "chew proof" crates - if it isn't metal it can be destroyed. She loves people and tolerates kids. She is protective of our kids and loves them but is still too high strung to be really trusted with them. Right now they are toddlers and she get so excited she knocks them over trying to kiss them or just when playing and not paying attention. She will snatch a treat quicker than they can move their hands so My son has taken to tossing her treats and my daughter doesn't even try anymore. Since we have young children we will likely not be getting another Siberian Husky when she passes.

      Siberian Huskies in general are very very high energy and can be destructive if they do not have an outlet - actually even if they have an outlet they can be destructive. They are bred to run miles in a day and they love to do it. I think they would be a great pet for a runner/jogger who wanted company training for marathons. My husband loved biking with Callie once she figured out how to stay with him on the lead and not pull him off the bike :) and we had friends who would take her running with them. Often she would have her 2 45 minutes walks with me, run 5 miles with one of the guys, and still be excited to take a bike ride with my husband after he got home.
      They are very intelligent and easily distracted. Which are both positive and negatives. It makes them difficult to train because they will see something and run after it. But easy to train because if you have the right motivation they learn very quick.
      Their coat is thick and they blow coat twice a year and it is massive amounts of hair - we used to fill five gallon buckets with hair just to see how many we could fill during a two week period. Not so bad if they are outside but crazy if they are inside.

  44. QUESTION:
    Im about to get a chihuahua puppy but i dont know what shots it needs,what medication it needs and food/drink?
    can anyone help me?

    • ANSWER:
      You should do some research in training especially but for now, get him a reliable vet. He/She will know what shots to give the new puppy. He'll need a distemper, heartworm protection if in warm areas, kennel cough, and some others that i dont remember. He'll need a rabies at 6 months of age and spay/neutered at that age too.

      He needs a GOOD quality hollistic premium kibble such as Innova Puppy (which is the best food there is, all human grade meets that pass the USDA inspection) Karma Oragnics, Eagle Pack, Solid Gold, etc. These brands are EXPENSIVE but you will save money on it later on vet bills and you feed less becasue they have no fillers. Innova is what i feed and its 20$/6.6 lbs or 48$/16 lbs (in ottawa)

      If you can't afford those prices then i suggest a brand like Wellness or Costco's Kirkland dog food. Those are cheaper but still pretty good.

      AVOID foods like IAMS, Eukanuba, pedigree, purina. They might be famous but are HORRIBLE for your dog.

      Drink: just give her plenty of water.

      Other Supplies: a crate with a divider, crate set, playpen, nylabone, kongs, other chew toys, some stuffed toys, food/water dish, collar, leash, harness, training books, puppy classes

      good luck :)

  45. QUESTION:
    Do puppy vaccines drain pups energy?
    My 11 week old Boston Terrier went in for his 2nd round of shots today. Once we got home he played a bit then went straight to sleep. It's been about 6 hours now since the shots and he is completely drained of energy. He doesn't even want to leave his crate or play at all. Could it be the shots that he had that is making him so tired?

    • ANSWER:
      Some dogs will run a mild fever (102° – 104° F) and be slightly lethargic and not eat well for 36-48 hours after receiving vaccines. This is a normal response of the immune system to the vaccine and should not require treatment.
      Call the Veterinarian if your dog:
      Runs a fever for more than 48 hours or has a temperature of over 104°F.
      Seems severely lethargic.
      Refuses to eat or drink for more than 24 hours.
      Develops a lump that does not go away after 4-8 weeks, continues to increase in size or bothers your pet.
      Vomits repeatedly.
      or If you are concerned for any reason after your pet has received vaccinations.
      In rare cases a pet may have an allergic reaction to a vaccine. These usually happen within the first few hours after the vaccine is given but may occur up to 72 hours after the injection. Allergic reactions usually require treatment. Call the Veterinarian or seek after hours care at an emergency clinic if you notice any of the following:
      Dfficulty breathing
      hives ( red welts most visible on the stomach)
      swelling, especially of the eyes, lips or muzzle
      profuse vomiting or diarrhea
      excessive scratching, (may even draw blood) especially around the neck.
      extreme lethargy, inability to waken

  46. QUESTION:
    I am afraid I might not ever meet anyone and have kids. I'm 38 and divorced :-( Am I too old now?
    I was married 14 years, but we never had kids because he was already tied down with responsibility of his family. I have been dating this guy now, but it has been a waste of time. He is moving on after next month. He doesn't want to get married or have kids with me (never married and no kids) so I am giving him the boot.

    I know most men my age have children. :-( I am just afraid I will never find Mr. Right and possibly have kids. If I do, I will be in my 40's. Is that too old?

    • ANSWER:
      Around age 40 the risk of birth defects for women having their first child, jumps significantly (the risk is lower for a woman that age who has already had a child)...so, you'd need to talk to your doctor and decide if the risk is something you are okay with (and if it would be fair to the child you might bring into the world)...

      ...also consider, at age 40 if you had a child, you'd be 58 when they became a legal adult...are you prepared to spend all your 40s and most of your 50s raising a kid (or kids)??? I'm 48 and I can't imagine having to deal with a grade school aged kid at this time in my life...my dogs make me crazy enough and I can crate them when they need a 'time out'...

  47. QUESTION:
    My dog is limping what should I do?
    I own a blue heeler aka Australian cattle dog and I noticed last night she is limping. There is no visible injury anywhere to get right front leg and she is showing no signs of pain..?

    • ANSWER:
      No sign of pain? If she's limping, that's a SIGN OF PAIN. You don't necessarily need to rush off to the vet, but you do need to confine her, crate rest is possible, take her outside to do her biz on a lead, no running or jumping for say 48 hours and if there's no sign of improvement, take her to a vet. Obviously if she deteriorates, you'll need to see the vet sooner rather than later.

  48. QUESTION:
    what it's the proper size of a wire crate for a male akita?
    Hi, I am going to have a male akita puppy for Xmas. I want to know what wire crate size suit him the best (full grown).

    • ANSWER:
      I would go with a 48 inch long folding crate. I use the Midwest double door crates for my large breed dogs (they are available at Petsmart). They are nice because the 2 doors allow you to put in right next to a wall, and they fold when not in use. Also, the Midwest brand come with a divider panel to go in the crate, making it smaller, and easier to potty train with. Good Luck!


48 dog crate

Dog Pen

Ah, garlic! As a woman who loves to cook and to eat, I am thrilled to learn about all the wonderful health benefits of my favorite seasoning. I cook for all the members of my family and that includes our furry babies. My dogs eat a healthy cooked, natural human grade dog food that I prepare.For centuries garlic has been used as a blood tonic. There has recently been controversy over feeding dogs garlic. Too much can cause a disease called hemolytic anemia. Too much, means 50 cloves at one time - that is too much for anyone! Conservative use of one or 2 cloves per 50lb dog a few times a week has so many benefits. Now even the AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials) recognizes garlic as safe. The AAFCO gathers information from professional toxicologists from the entire US and is responsible for monitoring the safety of animal feed products.Let's look at some of the amazing natural health benefits of garlic. it has pronounced effects on multiple organ systems. For the skin, it makes its way through sweat glands and pores. Insects are 10,000 times more sensitive to its smell, making garlic an effective natural deterrent against ticks, fleas and mosquitoes. How great is that? No more flea powder just human grade dog food with garlic. For the stomach, garlic triggers gastric juices for better digestion and promotes the growth of friendly bacteria in the digestive tract. It also has the ability to help regulate blood sugar and reduces cholesterol and triglycerides while purifying the liver by helping with detoxification. Garlic also contains the powerful antioxidant, selenium. Selenium activates enzymes, which protect against cancer. Cancer is the leading cause of non-accidental deaths in dogs. The National Cancer Institute has found garlic to be effective in slowing the growth of cancer cells.In summary, we can see that garlic stimulates immunity. It has antibacterial, antifungal, antiparasitic and antiviral properties. It also aids in digestion and detoxificationWhether it is garlic and people or garlic and your dog, the power of nature is seen again in the wonderful effects of garlic. The best way to receive these benefits is through eating a diet rich in whole, natural, unprocessed foods. Dogs, like people, live longer when fed human grade dog foods that contain vitamins, minerals and real ingredients like natural garlic. It is a simple thing to do to add to the health and vitality of your canine family! And it tastes great too!Dr. Janice ElenbaasAlways remember, Health comes from the inside out!

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    How deep should the form be for a concrete slap for a dog pen?
    How thick should a concrete slab be for 10x20 foot dog pen. What type of rock? How thick? and how much of rock then concrete? thanks for the feedback

    • ANSWER:
      4" thick concrete slab will work just fine. I wouldn't use mesh, you step on it when pouring the concrete, mesh will end up on the bottom of slab. I always use #40 grade rebar (40,000 lb tensile) in a 4' X 4' grid. For a dog pen with no weight you can get away with 5' X 5' grid saves on rebar.

      As for rocks use sand just to level it out, so you don't have 5" in some spots and 3" in others. 2.5 cubic yds of concrete is needed.

      The formula is:
      length (in feet) X width (in feet)X thickness (in feet) Divide all that by 27. To get inches into feet divide the inches by 12. So 4" in feet will equal 0.33
      (10 x 20 x 0.33)/27= 2.47 or 2.5 cubic yds

      4" slab is common for most applications, ie driveways, basement floors so on.

      Order your concrete as #3500 and a 6" slump and remember you will want to cut your new concrete into
      10' X 10' sections to eliminate cracks, all you need is a 1/4" deep cut right down the center.

  2. QUESTION:
    Can you recommend a dog pen for a a 19 lb pug?
    Can you recommend a dog pen for my pug.He is about the fullsize a pug can get and we need a pen with some space for him,and one that he cant tip over.

    • ANSWER:
      GET A SMALL XPEN
      like this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Plastic-Pen-Dog-Fence-Puppy-Training-Portable-Exercise_W0QQitemZ120161997846QQihZ002QQcategoryZ20748QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

  3. QUESTION:
    How do i go about getting a dog pen (where dogs can run around and play) in my neighborhood?
    Hi everyone!
    I live in a nice neighborhood, there is a large park located in the center of the neighborhood. There is a children s playground, baseball field and massive soccer field. I think a large dog pen would be a great addition to the park. A majority of the home owners in the area are also dog owners. (I have 3.) If i wanted to have one installed what would the process be? Would i contact the mayor or the parks and recreation office? Have a petition signed?

    Thanks guys!

    • ANSWER:
      Start by contacting your alderman (councilman, whatever they call him or her). Parks and Rec can't spend money unless the council appropriates some.

      Ask the alderman what it would take. A petition sounds good. Are there any dog owners' clubs? Maybe get them involved.

  4. QUESTION:
    What is the best floor for a 10 X 20 foot dog pen?
    What is the best floor for a 10X20 foot dog pen!! Gravel or concrete? How would you build a gravel base how deep and what the biggest rock you will start with? Help?

    • ANSWER:
      As a pet sitter, I care for 2 German Shepard's. The owner keeps them outside too. They have built a 7/12 foot high fence around the dogs, and they have a concrete floor. This makes it so much easier, as their pet sitter to clean up, it's cooling in the summer too. Also, they built 2 dog houses for them in side the caged fence(?), with plenty of bedding in the house, so the doggies stay warm. Also it is covered with a roof, probably not very expensive, maybe just tar, or that type of roof. Each dog has plenty of room to move about inside, and there is no chance of the dogs escaping, as they also have screen doors or maybe chicken wire made into doors, with outside locks, as well as inside. Simply a hook and eye type of lock. They also have a feeding stand for both dogs. The dogs get plenty of attention from everyone, and they seem very well adjusted to the living arrangements. So to answer your ?, CONCRETE.
      Debi

  5. QUESTION:
    How to keep my dog pen flea free?
    I just bought a house with a 20x10 dog pen that has durable fencing for "walls" and a completely dirt floor. She used it once and got fleas! We live in the country, surrounded by farms. What can I do to keep the pen area and the dog house inside flea free? Please keep in mind I give my dog Advantix often, as prescribed and she still got fleas...

    • ANSWER:
      just try to put stuff on the outside of the house to keep the pen away

  6. QUESTION:
    What is the cost to build an enclosed dog pen?
    I am purchasing a house in July. And if the home we choose does not have an enclosed back yard, what would the cost to build a medium sized dog pen?

    • ANSWER:
      You can get a pre-fab (just a screwdriver and pliers to connect the panels) 5x10 pen at Lowes for about 0 -- or buy the fencing materials yourself and DIY it for 1/3-1/2 of that.

  7. QUESTION:
    How to build a dog pen?
    I want to build a dog pen that attaches to the back of my house , I want it to be 30ft long ,( the lenght of my house) and 13ft wide , I got free chain link fencing, any suggestions on the best way to put this thing together to make it look good as well as operate good

    • ANSWER:
      to "do it right" you'll need to purchase posts, corner and run posts, top rail and brackets, end clips, and hardware. all can be purchased at Home Depot. Rent or buy a fence stretcher.

      Plot our your location with a string line.

      Define your first corner, getting the post plumb to vertical.
      Set your posts in holes filled with cement. at 10' distance on the run. Set your posts based on recommendations for the height of the wire..

  8. QUESTION:
    Steph wants to fence a rectanglar region of her yard to make a dog pen. If the region to be fenced measures 15?
    Steph wants to fence a rectanglar region of her yard to make a dog pen. If the region to be fenced measures 15ft by 18ft. How many ft of the fencing is required to go around the rectangular regions?

    • ANSWER:
      2(L+W)=P
      2(15+18)=P
      2*33=P
      66=P

      66 ft

  9. QUESTION:
    dog pen for my 1 year in a half old pittbull?
    I live in Fort Smith, AR and I am looking for a pretty big dog pen. Like atleast a 6x6x6. I can only afford 100 dollars right now and I was wonering if anyone had any suggetions on where to find one at that price would be??

    • ANSWER:
      If you want to be a good dog owner you have two choices
      1) bring your dog inside with you. They are pack animals and being separated from you, their pack is like solitary confinement in JAIL. If you love your dog bring it in! www.dogsdeservebetter.com
      2)Find you dog a family that can afford it. Your dog dog has to be in an outdoor pen and you can only afford 0. You need to think about what is best for the dog, and you may not be it.

  10. QUESTION:
    I have a dog that has round worms. Is there any way to get rid of the parasites in the dirt in the dog pen?
    I have 4 other dogs. I'm aware that the other dogs can get these roundworms. I'm also aware that the parasites from the roundworms live in the dirt. We have a dog pen that all the dogs use. So my question is, is there any chemical that I can buy to spray in the dog pen to get rid of these parasites that are coming from the roundworms?

    Please Help!

    • ANSWER:
      There isn't much that will kill round worm eggs in the soil. Keep the stool picked up everyday. Keep the ground dry. Loosen the soil often with a rake so that the sun can dry the soil and kill some of the eggs. Adding borax powder will sometimes help. Keep your dogs wormed. Many heartworm products like heartgard plus have wormers in them that also kill rounds and are given monthly.
      I went back and reread your question. Are you talking about earthworms. The earthworm parsites don't affect dogs however occasionally as egg will be seen on a fecal exam. Earthworms have their own set of parasites that don't affect dogs.

  11. QUESTION:
    what is a good indoor dog pen?
    I have two retired hunting labs. I need a pen to keep them in because they are old and I think the heat is hard on them. I need them to be penned though because I have a one month old that I do not dog hair all over just yet. Anyone have a suggestion on an indoor dog pen and where can i purchase it?

    • ANSWER:
      They're pretty big. Two baby play pens?

  12. QUESTION:
    Does anyone know of a plant or bush that can withstand dog urine?
    I am planning to plant something on the north side of my dog pen. However, I want to make sure it is something fragrant and able to survive my male dogs constant "marking". If you have any ideas, please let me know.

    • ANSWER:
      go to pet store or online and get a herbal ph pill for your dog it will change the PH of his markings and make it grass safe. you just put it in the dogs water and it should be fine.

  13. QUESTION:
    Martin fenced in a rectangular pen for his dog. He used 60 feet of fencing material. The length of the dog pen?
    is 4 times its width. What are the length and width of the dog pen?

    • ANSWER:
      Let w = width
      Let L = length = 4w

      2L + 2w = 60
      2(4w) + 2w = 60
      8w + 2w = 60
      10w = 60
      w = 6 therefore, width = 6 feet and length = 4(6) = 24 feet

  14. QUESTION:
    Is it true a dog house should only be a couple inches taller than the dog?
    I built a new dog pen for our 2 dogs. (1 lab & 1 chow/lab) and my father-in-law says it is to large for them that they would have a hard time keeping warm in it for the winter. We live in Pa. and there is lots of straw in there. And I also put a door flap on it. Do I really have to cut the roof off and lower it?

    • ANSWER:
      It should be just big enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in. For two dogs, it can be bigger. We have an shed like thing attached to our dog pen, it is 8X8, and the four Newfs sleep together in that and there is a lot of extra space. They have free access to the house, but prefer to sleep out in that. We also put straw and cedar shavings in it for them. If it gets too hot in there, they sleep out in the snow...and they do that a LOT.

  15. QUESTION:
    How can you stop a 10 week old dog from barking too much at night?
    The 10 week old puppy is kept in his dog pen(for safety reasons)only at night,yet barks excessively to get out.

    • ANSWER:
      I'm sure it's just because he isn't used to it. Be sure he has a comfortable area to sleep & maybe give him a toy that will keep him occupied....like a kong or one that he has to work at to get treats out of.

  16. QUESTION:
    How do you get rid of the disgusting smell of a dog's pee?
    We have a dog pen in our backyard, but my female dog uses her crate. My mom says the backyard smells terrible when she pees in the dog pen (there are pebbles on the ground, so it's not like it's grass or anything). Is there any way to get rid of the smell without paying tons of money?
    Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      Hose down with water to dilute the urine, then mix 50% water with 50% vinegar or just vinegar alone and sprayover the area.

  17. QUESTION:
    What kind of information should i put on a dog walking flyer?
    I am 13 and would like to make some money over the summer.I LOVE animals.I have a decent sized yard with a big dog pen.I was going to let my dog play with the other dogs after walking them.She is very friendly.Any suggestions of what i should put on the flyer?
    Thanks

    • ANSWER:
      you should put that, and something they can contact you at (i.e. email, phone...) but dont give too much personal information away. start by giving your flyers to people you know. try this for flyer layouts and stuff: http://www.americangirl.com/fun/books/index.php?section=sggmoney

  18. QUESTION:
    Whats a good way to clean my dog fence to keep flies away from my dog?
    I have a dog pen with cemented blocks inside. I clea nthe dog poop up everyday and sometimes wash it down but flies constantly come around afterwards. Should I put some kind of cleaner solutions on the ground to wash it to keep flies away?

    • ANSWER:
      Flies are attracted to anything stinky :p they can smell it even if WE still can't!! =]
      Hosing it down may help out a bit, but you should look into getting some kind of PET FRIENDLY cleaner that will eliminate the buzzing pests!
      Make sure, as I stated above, that you check that the cleaner you're using is PET FRIENDLY! I had a friend who made that mistake and it nearly killed her pitbull =[

      Anyhow, you clean it daily so it shouldn't be too bad =]
      Unfortunately, flies will probably be a constant problem.. The cleaners may not eliminate them entirely, but it will dramatically reduce the amount there.
      You could also look into having some pest-control done! =]
      Another thing: check around the fence area and see if there is any other garbage or doggy-doo somewhere nearby that is drawing them near the fence.

      Try not to spend too much money and good luck!! =]

  19. QUESTION:
    Would a dog pen work for a chinchilla play place?
    The one I am looking at is called a Midwest Gold Zinc Exercise Pen, here is what it looks like:

    http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753740&keepsr=0

    Would something like this work if I wanted to go in it and play with my chinchilla? I am using my bathroom right now, but my dad wants me to find somewhere else. I thought of a dog pen...

    • ANSWER:
      It should work just fine as long as you find something to cover the top, because your friend will try to jump or climb out. I'd suggest using a blanket, since they're heavy and easy to get a hold of. Just make sure your chinchilla isn't chewing it. I'm sure you already know, but do remember that you shouldn't take your chinchilla outside, even in a playpen. Too many problems can arise from it.

  20. QUESTION:
    How do I get my parents to let my dog inside the house?
    I have a lovely German shepherd that my parents absolutely refuse to let in the house (except for in the washroom, when its hot out).. My dad built a tiny dog pen on the side of the yard and expects him to stay there all day and night now that it's cooling off. The "dog pen" is basically the side of the house where the garbage cans and all the junk is kept, no trees or grass or anything!! My dog is well-behaved, housetrained, clean, and i brush him almost everyday so he doesnt shed as much. My parents are dead set on him being an "outside dog". how the heck am i supposed to convince them otherwise?!

    • ANSWER:
      go to this website http://www.dogsdeservebetter.com Maybe you could print out something about how dogs are social beings and belong inside? Maybe you could email a rep and they could email something to your parents?

      Personally, I feel for you. My dogs sleep with me, under the blankets ... To leave my dogs outside is a HUGE no, no with me

      Good luck and kudos to you for realizing that a dog belongs INSIDE.

  21. QUESTION:
    suppose u want to bulid a circular fenced in area for your dog> fence is purchased in linear feet?
    a. write a composite function that determines the area of your dog pen as a function of how many linear feet are purchased.

    b. if you purchase 100 linear feet, what is the area your dof pen?

    c. if you purchase 200 linear feet, what is the area of your dog pen?

    • ANSWER:
      The length of a circular fence is the CIRCUMFERENCE = 2 X Pi X R

      = 100

      R = 100/ 2 Pi = 50/ Pi

      area of enclosure = Pi X R X R = Pi X 50/ Pi X 50/ Pi = 2500 / Pi = 2500/ 3.14 = 796.18 square feet ANSWER

      C) 200 = 2 X Pi X R

      R = 200 / 2 Pi = 100/ Pi

      area = Pi X 100/ Pi X 100/ Pi = 10,000/ 3.14 = 3184.71 square feet ANSWER

  22. QUESTION:
    Where is the cheapest place to get an invisible fence for dogs?
    I have a german shepherd that likes to dig his eay out frim under the dog pen. Don't want to keep him chained up.

    • ANSWER:
      Cheapest one I have seen was around 0 at a tracker supply store called "Family Center"

  23. QUESTION:
    what can i use to put in our dog pen as a floor?
    we just got a dog pen that was built by a family member.i been trying to find something to use to cover the ground up in the dog pen.i been researching pine shavings,straw and hay.which is best for our dog.if anyone have any suggestions please let me know.

    • ANSWER:
      Pea gravel is widely used. It does eventually get pounded down into the mud. You might put tar paper under it.

      The rattan mat sounds worth trying although I never saw anybody use it. Some dogs would chew it up.

  24. QUESTION:
    Can 4 week old puppies go out in the dog pen (before) they get their shots?
    I was informed that puppies should not walk around outside until they get their shots. However, I am trying to find out if the puppies can walk around in the clean dog pen (for a bit)?

    • ANSWER:
      Yes, if on your property and only if the only dogs near it have been and are the ones that you own that also have only been on your property..If not then the pups could contract any number of illnesses and diseases.

  25. QUESTION:
    Any suggestions on how to exercise large dogs indoors with little space?
    We live in a tiny cabin in a very rural area. This year, winter has hit us very hard as it has all come in the last couple of weeks, leaving inches of ice underneath a couple feet of snow. We are also experiencing below zero temperatures. Normally, I walk my two large breed dogs in the woods a couple times a day, play with them out in their dog pen, and play with them some indoors as well on a daily basis. Due to the snow and ice, we are not able to walk outdoors much til it melts a significant amount. That is not likely to happen anytime soon. I get them out on 20 ft. longe lines a couple times a day so they can run around in the deep snow and climb the hills left from plowing the driveway. But, due to the cold, we're only out for 15-20 minutes at a time. We play "find it" indoors and they have treat balls (like a puzzle where they have to get the treats through a small hold into an upper chamber, then another small hole out of the ball so they can eat it) that they play with now twice daily. But, they are still missing a considerable amount of vigorous exercise. We do have a treadmill in an unheated, detached garage. But, again, we can't use it much when it is this cold. We are likely in for at least another couple weeks of this and I'd really like to get my dogs more exercise, both mental and physical. Another difficulty is that we do not have much space indoors. We're not cramped but there isn't a lot of room to run around. Given all this info., are there any dog owners/trainers out there with ideas for indoor activities?
    On the treadmill issue...There is no room for it in the cabin. The garage I'm talking about is more of a pole building, we just park our cars in it as well as tractor, snow blower, plow, etc. I've tried a space heater but it is just too much space (with high ceilings) and it doesn't help at all.

    This year is the first time in several that we've been stuck in for so many consecutive days. Normally, exercise is not an issue at all.

    • ANSWER:
      Try some mental exercises. Basic obedience is good, or more advanced if they know the basics. Sit, stay, come, down, back up, pivot, stand on command, leave it, get it, heel in tight spaces, even learning new tricks. Anything mental will wear them out.
      I you have Kongs, you can mix peanut butter with some kibble for a long lasting chew toy. Freeze it and it will last even longer.

      Good luck!

  26. QUESTION:
    I am trying to find a good used dog pen for my 1 year and a hlf old pittbull.?
    Does anyone have any suggestions where I can look for a good used dog pen for a year and a half old pittbull? I am looking to spend around 100 bucks. Thanks

    • ANSWER:
      kind of helps if we know where you are.

  27. QUESTION:
    How can I get my dog to calm down enough to go for a walk?
    My dog (some sort of hound/mutt) Tanner is 2 years old and hyper as can be. He's chained up usually but I'd like to get him and take him for longer walks with me but I can't due to his hyperness. If I try to hook him onto the lead he jumps and jerks and wriggles so much that I've nearly broken fingers when trying to simply get him off the chain and onto the lead. If I succeed in getting him on the lead he litterally drags me racing to our other dogs pen and then where ever his whim decides. I usually end up either hurt or crying in frustration (or both). My mom said I should walk him everyday at the same time and the schedule might calm him down but it only made it worse since he knew what was gonna happen and he was rearing to go. I talked with the vet and he suggested getting a choke collar but I'm scared he might seriously hurt himself, and I find the things more than a little inhumane. any advice would be much appreciated.
    There's no way I can make him an inside dog unfortunately since I'm only 16 and it's my mom's house and she says "no inside dogs". And the attention thing wouldn't be such a problem if I could walk him without getting hurt (which is why I asked for advice).

    • ANSWER:
      Your mom is on to something. Your dog needs daily walks, preferrably at the same time. He sounds very energetic. If you have a hard time handeling him on the leash, try an "easy lead" or "gentle lead". It is a harness type that fits over his muzzle and ears, and you attatch the leash to it. When/if he pulls, it will close his mouth shut, and pull his head to his chest. That motion will take away his power to pull you, and it is also uncomfortable for the dog, and will make him stop pulling immediately. You can get these harnesses at Petsmart and Petco. I have used them on both of my high energy dogs, and they work wonders. You can probably even order them online. Good luck

  28. QUESTION:
    "How do you train a dog to stop barking continually?
    Our new neighbors keep their dog penned outside while they work and he barks all day long. I'm going to have to discuss this with them and I'd like to have something helpful to say as well as complain. Thanks."

    • ANSWER:
      hi,

      here's how to train a dog to stop barking continually http://dogtime.com/barking.html

      hope this helps.

      Regards.

  29. QUESTION:
    how long will dog live if infected with heartworms?
    my wife brought home a stray-lost beagle. dog appears to be old. has bad hacking cough. was told by two different people that he has heartworms and that the dog is too old and weak to treat and that he wouldn't make it through treatment. he kept digging out of my dog pen. he lays around the house all day and at night time he runs deer through the swamp behind my house. is this just natural instinct or is he really healthy enough for treatment? he's had the cough atleast 2 months. how long will an infected dog live with heartworms?

    • ANSWER:
      yes, dogs can survive... but the treatment is a horrible thing to go through.

      were these people vets?? coughing for months can be caused by a million different things.

      take him to the vet and get a professional opinion.... they can tell you approximately how old the dog is and exactly what is wrong with him and what treatment, if any, would be appropriate.
      .

  30. QUESTION:
    I was wondering what is the best way to seal commercial vinyl tile to avoid having water get under the tile?
    This will be in a dog pen for my dogs so from time to time they may spill water or have an accident so I want to make sure that no water or and liquid can get into the seams of the tile.

    • ANSWER:
      i think u can put some white cement around it. Hope it will work.

  31. QUESTION:
    how to clean up dog pee in a concrete floor?
    I turned my patio into a dog pen for a good 5 years and now I want to use it as a sitting area. What is the best chemical to use in cleaning up to remove the smell of the pee and poop and some other stuff that can't be seen by the naked eye on the concrete floor?

    • ANSWER:
      We have looked after the grandparents dogs in the past and we always use jeyes fluid and a bit of bleach mixed together and then hose it down. Smells a treat afterwards

      Failing that you can always try this http://www.toolbox.co.uk/draper-52693-5l-patio-cleaner-5832-87780

  32. QUESTION:
    What does it mean when you dream that you are feeding your children kittens for dinner?
    I had this horrible dream last night that my kids were lined up in pen's like a cat pen or a dog pen and I was passing out kittens. They started chewing and sucking the blood out of the kittens and then they started complaining that the kittens were too sweet tasting and that they wanted the black kittens not the orange ones?

    Am I under too much stress?

    • ANSWER:
      Sounds like you are trying to handle alot of stress and something within the family that is bad news but yet you are still taking care of your little ones and trying to put them first in a crisis.

      Maybe it just shows you how strong you really are.

Source(s):

my opinion

  • QUESTION:
    What does it mean when you dream that you are feeding your children kittens for dinner?
    I had this horrible dream last night that my kids were lined up in pen's like a cat pen or a dog pen and I was passing out kittens. They started chewing and sucking the blood out of the kittens and then they started complaining that the kittens were too sweet tasting and that they wanted the black kittens not the orange ones?

    Am I under too much stress?

    • ANSWER:
      Sounds like you are trying to handle alot of stress and something within the family that is bad news but yet you are still taking care of your little ones and trying to put them first in a crisis.

      Maybe it just shows you how strong you really are.

  • QUESTION:
    How do i house break an adult beagle?
    I tried to housebreak him when he was a puppy, but my dad wanted him to be a hunting dog and noticed when i actually started to have some success. He locked him up with a combination lock in our dog pen outside, and wouldn't let me see him. Finally, due to the fact my mom got her way and we moved to town, he'll let me housebreak him. But, he has a serious marking problem. He tries to lift his leg on something as soon as he sees it. Also, since he's now an adult,, if i let him off the leash i can't catch him, it's not like a little pupppy walking around. He's more like if a dog got out of the fence and u were trying to catch it. I've taken him around on the leash, and finally gotten him to calm down a little, but only when he's on it, and he won't lift his leg while he's on the leash, but will the second i let him off. What should i do?

    • ANSWER:
      Basically you need to do a housebreaking refresher course. We do this all the time with rescued hounds. Crate training is really easy to do. Seeing he was partially housebroken at one time, he should catch on fast. You do the same thing as you would a small puppy, except he can last longer.

      It would help if you neuter him. He'll lift his leg eventually. I have Bloodhounds which are Beagles on Steroids. I can't catch them off leash either.

      Thank-you for bringing him in the house.

  • QUESTION:
    What should i do if my neighbor stole my puppy?
    I had 9 puppies to give away I was keeping one. They stayed in a dog pen inside my fenced in yard with no trespassing signs. I was gone for 20 mins and all the puppies were gone. I want my puppy back but they won't give her back. What should I do?

    • ANSWER:
      buy another one

  • QUESTION:
    Dogs in hot weather? Any advance to add to what I do now?
    It's getting over 100 degrees here and I worry about my dogs when I'm at work. They're in a dirt floor dog pen outside with alot of shade, water in a bucket attached to the pen (so it won't spill, I add a big chunk of ice to it too, and I also order 3 MiraCool dog pads. My dogs are healthy golden retrievers and one border collie/great pyrenese. I have no neighbors, so no one is around to check on them and I can't leave work to check on them either. The pen is large, and they also have a house they can go in and out of at will. The entire pen and the house is under lattice for shade. Anyone have any ideas on anything else I can do to keep my dogs safe in this heat? My husband doesn't want them left in the house for fear of fire.

    Am I being a worrywort, or am I right to be concerned about the heat and my dogs?
    Sniffydog...my husband isn't worried about the dogs starting a fire, he's worries about an electrical, or other house fire, and the dogs being trapped inside with no way out. There is also no fly problem and the pen is kept clean.
    The dogs are never in the pen when we're home. It's only when we're gone and it's to keep them from running loose where they could get into danger.

    Thank you everyone else for the nice ideas. I had thought of the baby pool, but one of my dogs won't get in it, and the other two only get in it when I first fill it up, so they don't use it through the day. It got up to 108 yesterday (I went home and let them in). When its that hot I'll let them in. I figure the risk of heat stroke is higher than the risk of fire.
    Sniffydog...I checked out the website link. I also agree with you that dogs deserve better and should never be on chains. I hate to see that. Our dogs live with us when we're home, in our house when they want and run in the fenced yard when they want.

    • ANSWER:
      Quote
      "They're in a dirt floor dog pen outside with alot of shade, "

      A kiddie pool of water will equal a 'MUD FLOOR dog pen outside with lots of shade'
      Not a good idea IMHO. They do make a mist system that works like a swamp cooler and attaches to the top of a dog run that works pretty well tho'.

      With shade and water the dogs will be OK.
      Dogs have only been living outside in 100 deg summer temps for about 100,000 years.

  • QUESTION:
    Do you think this dog has separation anxiety?
    I think my mom's German Shepherd has separation anxiety.When my mom leaves and leaves the dogs at home with me her dog freaks out.The other four are fine.But her dog throws herself at the doors and at the windows.I can't leave her out in the dog pen because she jumps the fence and won't come back.Our fence is about 8 feet high.

    • ANSWER:
      It's possible that this is separation anxiety behavior. Dogs with separation anxiety may demonstrate destructive behavior towards items with the owners scent or to things around exit points like door frames. They may vocalize excessively, engage in self-inflected trauma, attempt to escape, pant or salivate excessively, pace and even urinate or defecate.
      Treatment involves counter conditioning and desensitizing the dog to the stimulus for the anxiety. This can be a time consuming process and is best done in consultation with a Veterinary Behavior specialist. There are also medications that may help, but these are best used in combination with behavior modification. To find a Behavior specialist in your area see the links below.

  • QUESTION:
    How can I make my semi-rough finished concrete slick?
    I had a concrete slab poured for a dog pen but the contractor did not make the finish slick as I requested. I think there is a product that can be applied to the surface to smooth it but I don't know what it is called. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    • ANSWER:
      Your contractor has more sense than you.
      It is dangerous for your dog to use the slick surface. Falls and twists from sliding on the slick surface can cause your dog serious spinal damage.
      We are dealing with a paralysis of the hind legs of our dog who slipped on the laminate flooring.
      Leave well enough alone, why don't you?

  • QUESTION:
    Can I housetrain a puppy that stays out at night?
    We have an outside dog pen thing. It like 8 by 6 or something. I set it up today with a hard doghouse, a soft dog house and a box with a blanket.

    The past 2 nights she has slept inside and I put down newpaper & potty pads on the floor but it just gets to smell WAY too bad.

    I will only put her in the pen when I am sleeping. She will come inside first thing when I wake up & stay in until I go to bed.

    I will still take her outside every hour & after she eats/sleeps.

    Should I put her some food/water in the pen or just teach her that she gets food/water when she comes inside? Will she still be able to housetrained if she is outside at night?

    • ANSWER:

  • QUESTION:
    How much would it cost to build this animal rescue?
    How much would it cost to build an animal rescue from sratch with ten pens for dogs and ten for cats? It needs to be about 4000 sq ft and there needs to be a grooming area and two indoor rings and one outdoor ring for play time. The indoor rings would be part of a seperate building. Each dog pen also needs to have an indoor and outdoor area. Thanks!

    • ANSWER:
      get together with someone who plans businesses for a living, not random people on here...you need a business plan, as well as planning for the cost of building everything...you need a lot to build on, and more things than just wood and fencing....you need employees, a computer system, and a HUGE loan.

  • QUESTION:
    What are the dimensions of this rectangle?
    The perimeter of a rectangular dog pen is 298 feet. If the length of the dog pen is 4 less than twice the width, what are the dimensions of the dog pen?

    Length = ?
    Width = ?

    • ANSWER:
      The perimeter is equal to 2 length sides plus 2 width sides
      2L + 2W = 298feet

      The second sentence tells us that:
      L + 4 = 2W

      Combining what we know:
      2L + 2W = 298 becomes
      2L + (L+4) = 298

      So solving for L we get
      3L + 4 = 298
      3L = 294
      L = 98

      Plugging back in to the equation we got from our second sentence:
      L+4 = 2W
      98+4 = 2W
      102 = 2W
      51 = W

      And there we have our answers :)

  • QUESTION:
    What do you do when you find a tenant got a German Shephard when you said NO PETS?
    It is in the lease, you told them no pets, and when you went to get the rent there is a half grown german shephard in a dog pen in the backyard. AND she had only a portion of the rent?

    • ANSWER:
      You evict and sue for new carpeting and landscaping. You will win.

      Congrats on the new lawn!

  • QUESTION:
    Can I house train my puppy if she stays outside at night?
    We have an outside dog pen thing. It like 8 by 6 or something. I set it up today with a hard doghouse, a soft dog house and a box with a blanket.

    The past 2 nights she has slept inside and I put down newpaper & potty pads on the floor but it just gets to smell WAY too bad.

    I will only put her in the pen when I am sleeping. She will come inside first thing when I wake up & stay in until I go to bed.

    I will still take her outside every hour & after she eats/sleeps.

    Should I put her some food/water in the pen or just teach her that she gets food/water when she comes inside? Will she still be able to housetrained if she is outside at night?

    • ANSWER:

  • QUESTION:
    How do I make my boring, finished basement really cool.?
    All it is, is a place to go when there's a tornado, and it's a giant dog pen. The basement is humongous, but we never go down there so it is all boring, so please help me turn it into an awesome party room.

    • ANSWER:
      Awesome space to work with. Try to brighten it up with bold colors, like a bright red or orange, greens or yellows. Whatever you prefer. Add fun stuff for you and guests to do, a ping pong table, pool table, tv, dvd player, stereo, video games, books, the normal. Add alot of great comfy seating, making it a great place for movie nights. A mini bar would be good too, and you definantly have the space for it. If you don't want to invest in one, consider a serving tray, and fill it with all the things a mini bar would have, alcohol, drinking glasses and shot glasses, decanter, shaker, etc. You can get really creative with that sort of thing. Add fun things for people to wow over and look at, like wall decor, anything vintage and antique, decorative glasses/bowls/vases/pottery in different colors, shapes, sizes, and textures. Throw in some decorative pillows for color and comfort. Try cool seating like beanbag chairs, or oversized floor pillows, a chaise lounge, or even the floor rockers people play video games in. Make sure you have a coffee table or end tables for people to place drinks on. A basement needs good lighting, so look for unique fixtures from ikea. Old pinball and arcade games are great for media rooms too. Even an old vintage gumball machine. Anything that people can play with and enjoy. Consider a round table for board games and drinking games, but that flips over for people to play cards and poker on also. Add shelving for storage for dvds, cds, books, that sort of , and any extra room you have fill with fun things. Display remote control cars or helicopters, any collectibles you have, pictures of friends and family. Consider turning a wall into a place where people can sign it and write things, like a white erase board wall or use magentic and chalkboard paint to turn it into a chalkboard that you can pin up pictures and notes with magents. Anything fun like that. You can get really creative with what you do in this space. Hope this helps!

      Visit www.madisonavenueinteriors.webs.com for our do-it-yourself section and answers to design questions.

  • QUESTION:
    Any bunny hutch ideas for making it more fun for Boo?
    Tonight we are revising our 3 year old rabbit's winter hutch, which is kept in the garage. He has house with windows an upstairs loft, room to run, and seperate "bathroom" area. Any more ideas on how to make it more fun for him? Its about 8 feet long by 3 feet wide, with open sides. He shares a heat lamp with the dog pen, and they are safely seperated, but can see each other. More ideas? Boo Radley is a very spoiled and happy bunny.

    • ANSWER:
      sounds like the set up is quite a nice one so toys are your next step. lots of things make good bunny toys. boxes full of hay are fun for hiding and digging in. boxes, stools etc for sitting on and under, toilet roll tubes for chewing and throwing, fill them with hay with a treat in the middle for more fun. you can hang treats (carrots, veg leaves) from the top of the hutch to make them harder and fun for boo to grab. i provide mine with a large litter box filled with dirt for them to dig in. plastic plant pots are good for chucking about. an old phone book for ripping up, a treat ball...etc...you could also try scattering his dry feed to make it harder to find - this exercises his brain and stimulates him and also recreates a more natural "wild" style of feeding. however, the best form of entertainment for a bunny is another bunny. ideally they should be kept in pairs.

  • QUESTION:
    Does anyone have a suggetion on how to house train a 10 week old puppy?
    I have read book after book on house training a dog. I have tried to follow the instructions to the letter and my pups will come in after I take them out to potty and potty on the floor! I have a small pet yard and sometimes leave them out for over an hour and they still will come into the house and potty. Any ideas? I do use a crate and dog pen inside.

    • ANSWER:
      How long it will take you to house train your dog depends on your dedication to the training process and your puppy's maturity and learning rate.

      Things you will need to housetrain your puppy are a properly fitted crate, a collar and leash, some treats, and time and patience.

      When looking for a crate you want one that is big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lay down. You don’t want it so big that he can lay in one end and use the other end as a bathroom. If he can do this trust me he will. There are all kinds of different styles of crates: the two most common are wire and plastic. But they come in mesh, wicker, all sorts of different materials now. I would recommend choosing either a wire or plastic one especially for puppies that like to chew.
      Here are some pros and cons of plastic and wire crates.

      Plastic: These come in several sizes so can accommodate nearly every size of dog. They also give a more den like feeling to the dog and have less of a cage look. The disadvantage to these crates is that you may need to buy more than one to accommodate a growing puppy, and they take up more room if want to store them even though they usually will come apart in halves for storage. There are also some newer plastic crates will fold up similar to a wire crate.

      Wire: Like the plastic crate these also come in a variety of sizes. They do look more like cages though, something that can be fixed by purchasing a cover for it. A cover will also help some dogs feel more secure in a wire crate. The advantage of these is that you can buy a size to fit your dog when it is full grown. Wire crates have dividers available for purchase so that you can make the crate fit your puppy. These also have a storage advantage in that most fold up very neatly and can be stored easily.

      Next you will need to introduce your puppy to its crate. Just sticking the puppy in there without a positive introduction can be very stressful for the pup. I like to bring a new puppy home on a day off, and try to pick it up as soon as possible in the morning. This way I have all day to introduce the puppy to the crate so that by bedtime the puppy will feel pretty comfortable with its crate and shouldn't fuss to much.

      Start by showing the puppy the crate and let him/her explore it. Next show your puppy a treat and then toss it inside. When your puppy goes in to get the treat praise him/her excitedly. Reapet this a few times and then end this session. If your pup won't go all the way in the crate to get the treat try throwing it closer to the door, or even outside the door and then gradually toss it farther back, until the pup goes all the way in.

      After an hour or two have another session with crate. If your pup went all the way in the last time start there, if not start at the point you left off. After a couple times of going in the crate and coming right back out you can shut the door. But let the pup out after a second or two. Repeat this gradually increasing the amount of time the pup is in the crate. If you do this several times the first day by the time your ready for bed your pup should be pretty comfortable with the crate. I also like to repeat this process for a day or two after the pup comes home.

      Also remember that whenever your dog is crated you need to remove any type of collar, even a buckle collar can catch on a crate and strangle a dog.

      Now that you have your crate set up and your pup introduced to it you need to put your puppy on a feeding schedule.Puppies 8 wks to 6 months should be given three meals a day. After six months this can be cut down to 2 meals. Freefeeding (having food available all the time) is not recommended. It can lead to obesity and makes it harder to housetrain your puppy. Another disadvantage to this feeding method is that it will be harder for you tell if your dog is off food which can be a sign of illness. Feeding on a schedule allows you to predict when your puppy will need to go out. If you know when it went in you can predict when it will come out. You will want to divide your dog's full daily amount into three smaller meals. Give him the food and after twenty minutes take away the bowl whether there is food in it or not. Dogs will generally consume all they want in twenty minutes. Take your puppy to his potty spot about 15-20 minutes after he has finished eating. Repeat the go potty command while you are waiting for him to go. When he starts to go tell him good boy/girl go potty, and when he has finished give him a treat and make a big fuss over him.

      I'd also like to tell you how to tell if your puppy is getting to much or to little food. The recommendations on dog food bags are just a starting point. Start with that amount and then watch to see if your dog needs more or less. The way to tell is to do a rib check. You shouldn't be able to see the ribs, if you can add more food. You should be able to easily feel the ribs under a thing layer of fat, if you have trouble feeling the ribs, cut back the amount of food.

      In addition to having to go out after meals your puppy will also need to go potty after he wakes up from a nap, after playing, and first thing in the mornng and before bed. Signs that your puppy needs to go out: are restlessness, circling an area while sniffing. If your puppy does these things it's a safe bet to take him out. Remember though that individual dogs have their own signs of needing to go to the bathroom and you will soon pick up on these signals as well.

      When you are out for potty breaks you should stand still, if he wants to play ignore him. You want him to know that it is time to go to the bathroom not time to play. If you allow him to play before he goes to the bathroom he may start to hold out on you to extend his playtime. Once he has gone to the bathroom however you can play all you want. Stay outside with your dog for about 10 minutes to wait for him to go, if doesn’t go in ten minutes just pick him up and carry him back inside matter of factly. No treats or playtime on the way in. When you get back into the house he will either need to be crated or watched like a hawk. Try again in ten minutes. Repeat until he goes.

      Another mistake a lot of people make when they bring their new puppy home is to allow him free run of the place. This will only hurt your training and will also cause your dog to get into a lot of trouble. Young puppies need to be watched. When your puppy can't be watched he should be in his crate. This way he can't make a mistake or get into trouble.

      Accidents:

      The only time you can punish your puppy for having an accident in the house is if you catch him in the act. Even then it's less of a punishment and more of a redirection. If you see your puppy going to the bathroom in the house, startle him with a sharp NO and take him outside to finish the job. When he finishes outside, give him a treat and lots of praise. Back inside the house clean up the mess and use an odor nuetralizer (such as OUT or Nature's Miracle) to remove all traces of the mess so he won’t be tempted to use the same spot.

      If you find a mess after the fact well to bad that one is your fault, you should have been watching the puppy. Simply clean it up and try to watch more carefully. If you try to scold your pup after the fact he will have no idea what you are mad about and will be confused and may even become scared of you. NEVER, NEVER rub your dogs nose in urine or feces. It is not only disgusting but it also has no training value what so ever. Hitting your dog with anything including a rolled up newspaper is also unacceptable.

      Young puppies may need to use the bathroom during the night, so I advise putting the crate in your bedroom. This way if the puppy sounds restless you can take him to the bathroom. This will also make your puppy feel more secure because he is close to you. If you do need to take your puppy out in the middle of the night make sure you allow him to go to the bathroom only. No playtime for these outings. Still give him a treat and praise, but do so in a quieter manner than you would during the day. This way you won’t get him all riled up the middle of night. Remember if you let him get away with playing in the middle of the night he will begin to expect it, and you don’t want that. How long night time outings will last depends on the age of your puppy, and how fast his bladder matures.

      It also helps if have his last meal of the day at least two hours before bed and take away his water an hour before bed. You don’t want to put it in the crate with him it would be unfair to him to expect him to have a supply of water and then not have to go to the bathroom all night long. The only thing that should be in your dog’s crate are a chew toy and maybe a doggie blanket. Although some pups will urinate on absorbant materials that are in their crate, if yours does remove it. Also if you see that your puppy is chewing on his blanket it should be removed. If the puppy ingests part of the blanket it could cause an intestinal blockage. If that happens emergency surgery is needed to remove the blanket from the intestines.

      I know this sounds like a lot of work but that is what puppies are. They are also a lot of fun and that should make up for the work part of having a puppy. And just keep in mind that one day soon you will have a beautiful dog who is housetrained and is a joy to have around.

  • QUESTION:
    Why is our 4 month old beagle puppy so hard to potty train?
    We have tried and tried again showing this little guy that he needs to go outside. We have tried leaving him out in our dog pen for extended periods of time, while we were out with him of course. We have tried showing him its bad, and when he does go to the bathroom outside he still comes in and goes in the house about an hour later. HELP!
    We do praise him constantly when he goes outside and we clean our carpets regularly, but he still keeps going inside.

    • ANSWER:
      Not being smart or anything, but he is 4 months old, it take time and lots and lots of patience, most dogs don't have full control until around 9 months from what I've read and some are a lil harder than others. Just get him on a reg. feeding schedule, use positive reinforcement never negative, consistency, PATIENCE, routine, housebreaking aid(did wonders for my puppy), treats, using a cleaner that gets rid of smell, ect.

      If it is consistently about an hour after coming in, maybe try taking him out again about an hour after the last trip.
      Possibly check with vet and make sure he doesn't have a bladder infection or some other type of illness.

  • QUESTION:
    What is the area of a circle if the circumference is 48 ft?
    I want to buy this dog pen, but i want to know if it will be big enough... thing is, i dont have a calculator handy, and my brain is fried....

    Anyone know?

    • ANSWER:
      Solution:

      The circumference of a circle C is known as
      C = 2πr

      To find the radius r, substitute value of C

      48 = 2πr
      r = 48/2π
      r = 24/π

      The area of a circle A is known as

      A = πr²

      Hence, if you substitute the value of radius r in that formula, you will get

      A = π(24/π)²
      A = (24)²/π
      A = 183.35 sq ft. ------------->> Answer


  • dog pen

    Training Cage

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1. QUESTION:
      What are the problems expected to arise in a un-neutered indoor male cat?
      Any suggestions on how to best handle it, Thank you.
      He's 6 months now. We don't want to neuter him just yet, as he's a pedigree.
      For now, we have a large cage that used to be a dog's training cage, where we keep young Tom cat, when we need to open the windows /doors of the house.

      • ANSWER:
        He will call spray and try very hard to escape. Breeders that keep male pedigrees for breeding or showing keep then in special "cat chalets" in the garden because it is impossible to keep them in the house.

    2. QUESTION:
      Would the terrell owens bands work good for MMA fight training?
      Im training to cage fight and thought that the terrell owens bands might help make me faster, but i've never used them before and dont wanna waste the time and money if they are not that effective.

      • ANSWER:
        I've never used them but you should work on technique more than speed. If you are able to strike technically well speed will come over time. Speed is important for sure but don't spend too much time on it.

    3. QUESTION:
      my 6 mth old boxer puppy goes to the toilet outside then comes in and toilets in the house?
      we are using a training cage but she keeps barking non stop and i dont know what to do . it not like she is on her own because we have another boxer dog she is 5 yrs old

      • ANSWER:
        I watch my dog to be sure she does everything I sent her to do. And if she doesn't , I say "Get back out there and take a
        c r @ p." That is what we call it. Sorry.
        Grandma tells her before she goes what all the business is. Maybe you could try that. Tate definately knows what I'm sending her back for!

    4. QUESTION:
      How can I potty train my guinea pig?
      I know my guinea pig Ash is a very intelligent cavy. I though him the "Do a Circle" trick and he learned it for just 2HOURS!! But when i teach him every potty training technique found on the internet, nothing's working! I'm frustrated now. What is the best way to teach him potty training? Help! His cage is a battlefield full of mines!

      • ANSWER:
        Guinea pigs aren't usually suppose to be potty trained, but you can put a low bin that has bedding it in on one corner of your cage where your guinea pig poops or pees in the most. I did that to my guinea pig and i have fleece for bedding and he mostly poops and pees in there but sometimes he doesn't/

    5. QUESTION:
      Is it important to fix your rabbit in order to litter train it?
      I just moved my year old rabbit from a cage to a larger pen. She was somewhat litter trained, especially in her cage. Now in her pen she will not use her litter. Also when I let her have run time around the house she will not use her litter pan. She is not fixed, do you think that would help? We love her but she is a mess!!! Any suggestions?

      • ANSWER:
        According to the House Rabbit Society FAQ on litter training:
        "8.3 Does Spaying/Neutering make a difference?
        Yes! This is often the most important factor. When rabbits reach the age of 4-6 months, their hormones become active and they usually begin marking their territory. By spaying or neutering your rabbit, he will be more likely to use his litterbox (as well as be much healthier and happier)." http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/litter.html#spay-neuter

    6. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to litter train a ferret?
      I have had her for about a week now and am trying to figure out how to litter train her inside her cage. I tried one of those corner litter trays, but she refuses to use it.. any ideas from experienced ferret owners would be very helpful!

      • ANSWER:
        Okay, put on some gloves and try this. We trained both our ferrets (a boy and girl) very easily. When she defecates in a corner pick up the poop and place it in the box. This causes her to identify the scent. Also look into getting corner guards. They are very simple like spring coils that you stretch across the corners that you don't want her to use. You can even probably make them yourself. Try bitter apple spray in the corners you want her to avoid. Also what kind of litter are you using? Some ferret litter claims to have pheromones to encourage them to use it. We used NON CLUMPING cat litter and never had a problem. We also used a low front square box in addition to a corner box. They use both with no problem. Just take a deep breath, it does take patience but it is very do-able.

    7. QUESTION:
      Any creams out there that get rid of stretch marks and scars?
      Basically, since I started training as a cage fighter, I've been getting cut in my training and some of those cuts have turned to scars. Also, since I began cage fighting I also started lifting weights and my muscles have gotten bigger, but I've also gained some stretch marks.

      Any ideas?

      • ANSWER:
        for stretch marks there aren't any creams around that REALLY work
        (a good dermatologist would tell you that a non-invasive solution for stretch marks is not available yet) - but a good help you can get from vitamin A ampoules - after using them, use an ULTRA hydrating cream as Vitamin A dehydrates the skin badly

    8. QUESTION:
      How long will it take to cage train my puppy?
      Last night was his seventh night in the cage and he howled for almost 3 hours. He has a blanket, a toy and water and I leave the radio on for company. What else can I do?

      • ANSWER:
        Be persistent. It won't take that long. I commend you for your decision to use a crate. I breed boxers and when they are a little older I take a portable playpen and turn it on it's side and start training them to sleep there. I have been told by my puppies parents that all the puppies took right to thier kennels rather easily. Just like I tell all my new parents who ask wheather or not to use a kennel, Would you let your 1 year old child run around on thier own? You would probably use a play pen if you couldn't be right there. Crates are a safety devise for you and your puppy but should never be used as a disaplinary. Good luck.

    9. QUESTION:
      What Is The Best Kind Of Beer To Drink If You're A Cage Fighter?
      I like beer, but I'm training to be a cage fighter. What is the best beer to drink so that it won't interfere with my butt kicking abilities?

      • ANSWER:
        There isn't a beer that won't affect your fighting abilities, no matter what anyone says. Drinking causes you to gain weight, no matter the alchohol, and it slows your reaction time down. It also makes you slow overall. So, don't drink. I'm trying to get my boyfriend to quit...

    10. QUESTION:
      How can you prevent your hamster cage from smelling bad and getting mold and such?
      How can you prevent your hamster cage from smelling bad and getting mold and such? I already know that carefresh takes away the smell but i actually haven't tried it to see if it works. But how can you prevent mold and such to get away from your cage. I heard you have to clean your cage or wipe it down oftenly. Please tell me if it's true or if you have any suggestions and stuff.

      • ANSWER:
        Before you get a hamster, please do the right and responsible thing: Get a good, recently published book on hamsters as pets, and then read it at least once before you even consider purchasing the animal. Remember, living things all need care and you may find that you can't afford it or don't have the time!

        My hamster's cage literally has no odor. He is a syrian hamster (a panda, to be exact) and I keep him in a multilevel ferret-home. They do make them so that the bars are small enough to put even mice or dwarf hamsters in. He is also litter trained, and kept on cellsorb bedding, with carefresh for his sleeping area. I clean the cage out regularly, and just wipe the bottom part out with Nature's Miracle thoroughly, before replacing any bedding. Because the cage is so huge, and because he is so good about using the litterbox, I only change out the entire bedding of the cage about once a month. That is not a normal average, though. I would say, based on the space and time people spend spot-cleaning for the average hamster, you should clean out the entire home every 4-7 days.

        If your hamster stinks, it is either ill, a pregnant female, or you are not taking proper care of it. They are really odorless animals when kept properly. If your hamster's home has mold, you should give it to someone who should take care of the animal! I have kept small animals most of my life, and have never experienced any mold growth. The only mold problem I ever had was in a tarantula setup where the humidity accidentally got a little too high!

        So, here's what I would recommend for a healthy, mold-free, not stinky hamham:

        - book first!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
        - large cage (starter kits and tube houses are cruelly small, and the tube homes are hard as heck to clean and don't have enough air circulation)
        - unscented, paper-based pet bedding
        - spot clean litterbox or poopy/peepee areas with a spoon or scoop, daily. Most hams poo or pee in only one or two areas of the cage, near a corner.
        - clean entire cage every 4-7 days, using only water and towels, Nature's Miracle, or water and white vinegar in a spray bottle. Never use bleach, household cleaners, etc. Replace all bedding after cage is clean and dry.

        Just to let you know, the food and water should be changed daily. I don't know why this is, but even though these are relatively low-maintenance animals, many owners are still to darned lazy to handle their minimum care requirements! Please don't feed them just when you feel like it, or change the water when it gets empty (BIG cause of wet-tail!).

        Hamsters should also be handled regularly during the evening, or they can get mean (just like most small animals). They should have a couple hours a night to run in a safe room so they don't get hindleg paralysis from lack of exercise.

        Good luck, and enjoy your pet!

    11. QUESTION:
      How do i retrain a dog that has been used to his bed in his cage?
      We have a 1 year old dog which we got from the dogs home the vet advised us to train him with a cage which we did and works great he very rarely does his business in his cage and sees it as his bed and will go in on his own when he is tired.We only lock it when we go out and then leave it open all of the rest of the time. Our problem is now that the cage is big and bulky and would like to get rid of it for space reasons and we have tried to go out and leave him out of the cage but he goes wild, the neighbours said he howls the place down and when we come home hes panting because he has been running from window to window and getting generally stressed. How do we get him to use a normal bed during the day and be calm so we can get rid of his cage for space reasons.

      • ANSWER:
        Before you leave the house feed him and then take him on a 45 min walk to tire him out and so he can do his business! He will be so tired and satisfied he won't care that your gone and will most likely sleep the whole time! Make sure he has some way to go potty either a doggy door or newspaper! Good Luck!

    12. QUESTION:
      How do I train my budgie to quit eating his or her poop?
      It's not that I don't clean her cage, because I do it everyday, it's just that she(i think) likes breaking up her poop until it becomes powder. I can't switch the paper every hour.

      • ANSWER:
        Try a cage with a wire bottom grate.

        This way "MOST" of the poops will fall through to the bottom tray, and your bird won't be able to get to it.

        :o)

    13. QUESTION:
      How do I stop my dog from attacking my weewee pad?
      So lately my 4 1/2 month cotton doodle (half coton de tulear and poodle) has been attacking the wee wee pad and when hes done the bits of it are everywhere. Since he has no wee wee pad hes got no where to pee and so when I come home there's pee everywhere and and poo in the kitchen. We've tried domestic training with a cage but it hasn't been working. Please help me!

      • ANSWER:
        crate train him!

        the easiest way to do this is to put him in the crate with some blankets and pillows, and make sure they're washable... Then leave him in there at night or whenever you aren't home, he will learn that this is his bed and have a natural instinct not to pee or poo in there.

        As for the wee pad there is no real way to make him not do this, my dog did it too. It's just because he's bored and puppies like to destroy things, especially paper things.

        If you don't want to leave him crated you could try leaving out a ton of toys in hopes that he won't get bored, but most likely you will have to crate him, at least until he learns that pottying is for out doors only.

    14. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to house train my new lab puppie?
      I just got a lay who is only a few weeks old.. what is the best way to house train my new lab pup? I heard cage training works any ideas.. on cage training or other things???

      • ANSWER:
        Crate training is the best. It not only keeps them out of trouble when you are not home, but also teaches them boundries. - Some rules to remember when crate training:
        1) when you let them out of the crate - take them outside immediately, give them their cue word/phrase, which can be anything you want it to be (go potty, do your business, etc...)
        2) if they do their business, praise them like they just won an award, if after 10 min they do not do their business, take them back inside and put them back into their crate...
        3) repeat this process until they go potty outside - once they go potty outside, you can leave them out of their crate, but never leave them unattended.
        4) Choose a crate that is only big enough for them to stand up and turn around, if the crate is too big, they will end up using the area they are not sleeping in to go potty. The best crates for bigger dogs are the ones that come with a divider and "grow" with the dog.
        NEVER use the crate as a punishment. The crate should be used as the puppy/dog's safe place.
        As a puppy - he/she has a smaller bladder than a full size dog, they will have to go potty more frequently and will be unable to "hold it in" for a long period of time. As they grow, they will learn to hold it in for longer periods of time.

        ALSO:
        When you put the puppy into the crate, they will whine, bark, growl - do anything to get your attention - IGNORE them! If you let them out or pay attention to them when they are doing this, all you are teaching them is that they get what they want if they make noise. Wait until they are quiet, then let them out. It will take time for the puppy to adjust to a crate, but as long as you are consistent, it shouldn't take too long. We trained ours with a routine - every night at bedtime we would say "go night night" give our puppy a hug, put his favorite toy in his kennel, put him in his kennel, give him a treat, then leave him be until he had to go potty.
        That lab started crate training at around 10 wks old - now all we have to do is say "kennel up" and he goes right into his crate, lays down, and goes to sleep.

    15. QUESTION:
      How should I attach fleece over my wired platforms for my rat cage?
      I am getting 2 rats soon, and the cage I want has wired platforms. I've been told to put fleece over it to stop their feet hurting, but don't know how I should attach it so that it doesn't come off or is scratched and chewed by the rats. Any help would be really appreciated.
      What would you recommend then? I'm new to owning rats lol. Thanks.
      Thank you so much, Mady.

      • ANSWER:
        Fleece is GREAT to use...and don't listen to what the other person said, "fleece gets pee soaked" because it doesn't! Its much easier to use when your rats are litter trained, so use a litter pan for ferrets, get some small animal litter - like these:
        (I use the large one for my rats)

        http://www.petco.com/product/5300/Petco-Small-Animal-High-Corner-Litter-Pans.aspx?CoreCat=OnSiteSearch

        And this litter:

        http://www.petco.com/product/106817/Planet-Petco-Small-Animal-Paper-Pellet-Litter.aspx?CoreCat=OnSiteSearch

        And you can teach your rats to be litter trained - don't worry its SUPER easy, because if you notice your rats will only go to the bathroom primarily in one corner, so put the pan in that corner and let them do their thing! :) You may have to pick up any scattered droppings for awhile until they get the hang of it, but it should only take 1-2 weeks.
        But as I was saying with the fleece, if your ratties are litter trained, you don't have to worry about pee on fleece, and if any does accidentally get on it, fleece is (to a point) waterproof, so it will just evaporate.
        Now for the fleece. I use these clips:

        http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/561339/Medium-Binder-Clips-1-14-Wide/?cm_cat=2000000361

        And my girls are really good at not chewing up the fleece, but I make sure to provide plenty of things for them to chew on.
        They work really great, and are very secure! :)
        Good luck, and feel free to email me if you have any other questions! Good luck!!

    16. QUESTION:
      What is the best method of crate training puppies?
      When crate training puppies is it better to leave them in for an extra hour if you have something you have to do. Or to come home let them go and put them right back in the crate.

      • ANSWER:
        I had a belgium Shepperd puppy. First 3 nights he was in a crate with my arm stretched over the cage, next few nights I moved his crate in the hallway and slept on the floor with my head sticking out of my bedroom and my arm about a foot from the cage. Next few nights I moved his crate to the living room and slept on the recliner. Next I opened the sliding doors, set his crate on the patio and slept on the recliner a couple of days. Next I put him in his outdoor cage, it was huge with a cedar dog house built for some reason with rain drains! (spoiled him a little) Still slept on the recliner, a few days of this he would always watch that I didn't move. After a few day I got a blanket and slept under that eventually one day slipping from under the blanket to my bed. This method took less than a month. Every time Lupo knew it was time for me to go to bed he would happily sit in front of the sliding doors, I would let him out and he would go straight to his mansion. He learned many other wonderful things and I miss him so much. I read this training method in a book, but sorry can't remember the name. You know what is best about it? I still had his crate, a little bigger though, and kept it in the house, living room, if there were people there he would come in the house and go to the crate unless someone wanted him out to play. He was the smartest best trained, (not so much by me but how Belgiums are) Amazing friend.

    17. QUESTION:
      How can I make cleaning my rabbits cage easier?
      My rabbit's cage is very hard to clean. Does anyone know of any rabbit cages that are easy to clean? Or do you have any suggestions on ways to make cleaning your rabbit's cage easier?

      Thanks!

      • ANSWER:
        Well, if the pan is too hard to slide out, try spraying some cooking spray onto the bottem of it, also spray some on the stop, then add litter, or bedding, I perferr to use woodships, because they smell SOOO much better when they get wet.
        You should also try to litter train your bunny, this makes cleaning a lot easier. For litter training tips email me
        at PinkBunnie94@Yahoo.com
        Also, try getting a cat box scooper, with smaller holes, it may help save some shavings. Some of the ideas I would and would not use for bedding are of the following
        YES-
        *Wood Chips Pine/Ceder
        *Wood shavings, you can make these yourself, by sawing up some wood, to use for other uses for your family, or the bunny.
        *Shredded newspaper

        NO
        *I woulden't use whole sheets of newspaper, cause they stick, and can be yucky to clean up
        *You could use cat litter, but it doesn't smell, or work the greatest

        I would clean cage once every 2-3 days, and if you litter train, clean the litter pan every 1-2 days.
        Again for more tips on training email me
        PinkBunnies94@Yahoo.com

    18. QUESTION:
      What kind of cage should a 6 pound himalayan rabbit have?
      I have a cage that she's in, but she's grown a lot and I can't figure out what size cage to get her now? Thanks!=P
      She's a Himalayan mixed with a Rex. She's a shelter bunny/ And by the way, she gets let out of her cage 3 hours everyday, she's an indoor rabbit and everything! And also, Himalayans can reach 7 pounds. Get your facts straight!
      My room is bunny proofed, my mom just won't let me leave them loose all the time...

      • ANSWER:
        Why not have her as a house rabbit? She will easily be litter trained and can come and go as she pleases. Rabbits are not happy living in a cage. They need space to run,jump and stand. You have a very big rabbit and she needs lots of space so I would never cage such a large animal. Your rabbit is very over weight for a himalayan. They are not usually more then 4.5 pounds. Maybe she is not getting the exercise she needs. This is another reason not to have her in a cage. All you need to do is bunny proof your room. Remove any wires and cables as she will chew them and seal in any gaps she can squeeze through. She will be so happy not being caged and you will be able to bond even better together.

    19. QUESTION:
      How does cage fighting affect your body?
      Every cage fighter I have talked to says that it is not a dangerous sport... I find this hard to believe. You are beating the crap out of each other! Do you know of any health problems it causes or any fighters that have had health problems?

      • ANSWER:
        First, it's not "cage fighting". It's Mixed Martial Arts (MMA). More MMA matches world-wide have taken place in a ring than a cage.

        The typical health problems are minimal, compared to many other professional sports. One of the benefits of MMA is that it's not seasonal. Some guys in football, baseball, etc will compete with serious injuries, including torn ligaments and concussions, because if they miss a game, they don't get paid. MMA, meanwhile, doesn't come with the pressure to compete with a serious injury. In fact, in the US and many other countries, athletic commissions require a pre-fight physical, which reveals serious injuries; without passing such a physical, the fighter doesn't compete.

        The most common injuries are cuts on the face and broken hands; the worst-case scenario with these injuries is that you'll get scars on your face, and have hands so damaged you'll find it hard to use them. However, the latter case is unlikely, and has only happened to one fighter I know of, who competed back in the old bare-knuckle days, without the benefit of hand wraps and gloves. Repeated concussions can lead to "punch drunkenness", which includes memory problems and slurred speech, though there's no documentation of this happening to an MMA fighter, and because MMA fights involve more than head punches (leg kicks, chokes, arm locks, throws, leg locks, knees to the body), MMA fighters receive far fewer blows to the head than boxers do over the course of their career, and have a lower risk of such damage. The typical athletic wear-and-tear, including torn rotator cuffs and ACL's, pop up now and then, but you don't have to be a fighter, or even an athlete, to suffer such injuries. Another common injury is cauliflower ear, where the cartilage in the ear becomes misshapen due to friction, but this is more superficial than anything else. Broken bones on the arms and legs may occur, but these are generally rare (I've watched hundreds of matches and have only seen five) and heal after a few months.

        There are also positive affects. By training MMA, you become stronger, lose access fat, and increase your flexibility and endurance. Due to the demands MMA puts on the body, MMA fighters develop conditioning in every conceivable area of fitness and athletics. Considering the fitness factor is long-term and broad ranging, I'd say it outweighs the possibility of little accidents tremendously.

    20. QUESTION:
      How big should my parakeet cage be for 2 birds?
      I have 2 parakeets and i want to know how big i need the cage to be and what kind of toys/food to get them and if i should let them out of there cage for a little. My house is big so should i put them in a small room? Thanks!

      • ANSWER:
        For all cages always, the bigger the better! If there is room for them to fly, it's great. Always when you have multiple birds they need to have room to get away from each other as well as plentiful water and food in case one picks on the other and keeps them from the food dishes. Here is more info on cage size;
        http://jamiesparrothelp.wordpress.com/2008/05/28/cage-size/

        As for toys - try to go for naturally made toys. From pet stores get the ones from Planet Pleasures that are purely organic parts. Parakeets love to chew so the ones that allow them to do so are best and make sure you change up their toys often (bi-weekly and at least monthly) so they don't get bored, even if they haven't gone through that particular toy yet.

        Organic pellets are best and are not sold at petshops. There are two brands I know of;
        http://jamiesparrothelp.wordpress.com/2008/06/03/the-diet-your-parrot-should-be-on/

        And it's good for birds to get true exercise. Letting your parakeets out is a great idea so they can really strech and fly around. Recall flight is best, so trianing them to come back to you on cue. You can do so through target training;
        http://jamiesparrothelp.wordpress.com/?s=flight+train+using+targeting

        Just make sure no fans are on, windows open, etc. or else they will die outside on their own and a fan is a dangerous thing for them to attempt to land on.

    21. QUESTION:
      How do you litter train a kitten who is used to being in a barn?
      Just got a 10-12 week old kitten. She was a barn cat, I've put her in the litter box, but she just wants to jump out. I have a rabbit and when I opened her cage, the kitten went to the bathroom in the cage. I'm not going to leave the door open, and I put some cedar chips in the litter box, just because she smelled it. She has worms so I've given her medicine. I don't want runny crap all over the place. She's a sweet kitten, but I can't have it using the bathroom all over my house. And, I am keeping her inside, no options on that one. Any help would be great.

      • ANSWER:
        Keep the rabbit away so it won't get worms. Have you given them both meds for that? I don't know if the rabbit can get the worms but I would call a vet to ck it out!To train a kitten you just put them on the litter,after they sit on it and even if they don't pee or poop show them to cover the poop.They will get the idea and start going there. You can pick them up and put them in the litter box with some poop that they did in the floor and show them to cover it up.Once they get the smell and have been shown a couple of times they usually get it.The cat will not stay in the litter box! You will need to close her up in the bathroom or laundry room with the litter box and her food and water until she gets well. If her food is close to the box she will not use the litter box so put it as far away as you can.Cats are very smart and hate the smell and dirtiness and will train easily. I have never had a cat that is hard to train in my 54 yrs! Best wishes!

    22. QUESTION:
      How do you crate train your puppy? What is crate training?
      First of all, what is crate training? Then how do you crate train a puppy? How is it useful? I know i can just search this on internet, but i find it easier to understand and more helpful from answers from yahoo answers, because there are varieties of answers from different ppl's view and opinion.

      • ANSWER:
        Crate training is getting a cage, or "crate" and putting the puppy in it when you are not able to physically watch him. Crate training takes advantage of a dogs natural den instincts. They don't want to pee or poop in their "dens", so they try to hold it as long as possible. You need to remember that:

        1. Crates are a safe place, not a place of punishment. Crates are not a "jail".
        2. Crates are a training tool only, and not a place for the puppy to live in 24/7. The puppy should be out of the crate as much as possible, but in order for him to learn, you must keep your eye on him at all times.
        3. Be fair. Take the puppy out frequently and have lots of play and exercise time.
        4. Make the crate a happy place where the puppy has special chew toys and treats.
        5. Don't leave young puppies in the crate for more than 3-4 hours at a time.
        6. Crates also prevent destructive chewing--they can't physically chew the wrong things when you aren't there to watch.
        7. As the pup matures, teach him to be well behaved outside the crate, and begin to trust him a little bit at a time.

        More info here:

        http://www.siriuspup.com/behavior_problems.html

    23. QUESTION:
      How do Train my dog well enough to be loose around the house?
      My puppy has to either stay in her cage or in a tiny room. I can't let her roam around or things will get ruined. I want to be able to let her out of her cage without worrying about her going crazy and/or chewing up stuff. It may sound like I'm tying to change a wild (crazy) pup into a calm pup. (Is that possible) PLEASE HELP

      P.S. She is a mini schnauzer -- one year old puppy.

      • ANSWER:
        How much exercise does your puppy get? Often they go a bit mad by being shut in a room or cage all day with no walks, however I can understand your doing it to kept her from ruining your house.
        You could try letting her out and watching her, if she does something shea not suppose to, tell her off like you really mean it. Everytime you let her out, watch her for a while and tell her off when she does things shes not suppose to. She should get the idea after a while and you should be able to trust her more and more. You could try covering things she chews in something that she doesn't like the taste of?(that didn't work with my dog as he liked the taste of everything haha) sorry if this wasn't much help.

    24. QUESTION:
      How do I get my rats to stop peeing outside the cage?
      I have two rats, and they don't pee when I let them out, or anything, but instead of peeing inside the cage they go up to the top level of their cage and pee so it goes outside the cage. Its really gross. I have plastic under the cage so my floor dosn't get hurt, but its still really gross. How do I get them to stop?

      • ANSWER:
        Unfortunately, while rats can be trained to use a litter box, they can usually only be trained to use it to poop. They'll still pee wherever and whenever they want-- that's just what they do. I don't know that there's anything you can do to stop them from doing it on the top level. However, if there's one spot that they usually pee from, you could try putting a little box there and hopefully they would keep going in that spot and the box would catch it (and maybe they'd even learn that the box is the place to go.)

        Putting them in an aquarium is NOT a good solution. They'll have much less ventilation inside of an aquarium, so you'd have to clean it much more often to keep them healthy, and they'd miss the extra space and bars to climb on.

    25. QUESTION:
      Should I just ignore my new puppy when he whines in his cage?
      I just got a 8 week old Jug (Jack RusselPug) And we're trying to cage train him. I put him in at night to go to bed and he whines and whines. Is ignoring this the best option?

      • ANSWER:
        yes unless he needs to go outside.

    26. QUESTION:
      How Should i start training for baseball?
      Im a sophomore in high school and I think i should start training for baseball but idk what i should do.

      • ANSWER:
        Batting Cages and practice the fundamentals....play catch a lot to keep your arm consistent and get your fielding to be as good as possible...the most IMPORTANT thing is hustle...coaches love it and it only makes you better. run everything you get a chance to....push push push and dont let up

    27. QUESTION:
      How to litter box train guinea pigs?
      I own to guinea pigs that are three months old. How do you litterbox train them in the cage and outside?

      • ANSWER:
        If you'd like to try training your guinea pig to use a litter box, you need to provide a box. You need one that fits your guinea pig. Check with pet supply stores for litter boxes; you may find boxes made for cats, rabbits, or especially for guinea pigs. Organic, paper litters are best because dusty clay- and wood-based litters can cause respiratory problems.

        To begin training, place the litter box in the area of the guinea pig's cage where she normally relieves herself and away from food and water. Place a few fecal pellets in the box. To encourage her, you can place a small amount of hay. Some guinea pigs enjoy sitting in the litter box, munching on the hay. That's okay. Eating stimulates digestion and the guinea pig will use the box as intended. Hopefully, your guinea pig makes a connection and uses the box. When you see your guinea pig using the box, praise her and offer a treat. Never scold or holler at the guinea pig for not using the litter box.

        Remember, not all guinea pigs take to litter box training...I could never get my boys to use a litter box...

    28. QUESTION:
      How do I get my new cockatiel out of his cage without him trying to bite and without scaring him?
      I just got a cockatiel and I want to gain his trust. I'm not sure how to go about getting him to come out of his cage. He definitely wants to bite and I don't want to traumatize him. I also know I should not try to grab him. I need advice on how to gain his trust and to be able to get him out of his cage for interaction and exercise.

      • ANSWER:
        Let him chill out for a few days to a week. He needs to get used to his new surroundings. Right now he is very stressed out. Just hang around the cage and talk softly to him. After about a week, you can try to get him up on your finger. Keep his wings clipped so he doesn't fly away when you try to train him. It will also keep him from flying inside the house and getting hurt from flying into things. They can get very serious injury and broken necks from flying into walls, mirrors, windows, and ceiling fans.

    29. QUESTION:
      Is it ok to keep my dog in a cage for hours during the day?
      When no one is home, my dog (a pug) stays in a cage. Some days it is for up to 5 hours, maybe a little more. She sleeps in the cage, but sometimes we worry about her. Is it cruel to do this?

      (She is indoors in air conditioning in a pretty big cage, but she does not have access to food or a place to go to the bathroom)

      • ANSWER:
        As long as she has access to water. And maybe a toy it is fine. That is what crate training is.

    30. QUESTION:
      What type of bedding do you use for your cage pets to help with odor?
      I'm going to get a guinea pig but I've heard they naturally stink. Like even if you clean their cage once a week, they reek.
      But I asked a few people and they said it depends on what type of bedding you use and recommended not use cedar because it holds odor.
      She said to use something called simple green bedding but I cannot find that.
      What do you recommend?

      • ANSWER:
        Guinea pig bedding is a difficult subject b/c while one bedding might smell better, it isn't always better for your guinea pig. Since guinea pig are especially prone to respiratory problems, any bedding with dust isn't the best, but this can be a difficult problem b/c bedding is SO expensive and budgets are especially tight for everyone right now. Plus, guinea pigs poo and pee SOOOO much that they use a LOT of bedding. I fight the most economical, time saving for cleaning purposes, and smell is to use a combo of wood chips like pine shavings with fleece. Fleece makes a great bedding b/c you can just wash it. You can use a fleece blanket or buy a pet rug at you local store usually which is fleece that can be cut to fit your cage size and is quite literally a rug. It is also washable. Fleece lets the pee soak right through to keep guinea pigs clean and dry. The poo just stays on top and is quickly and easily collected once or twice daily to clean the cage VERY quickly compared to the digging through loads of bedding for the poop and having to remove wet bedding. However, since the fleece allows the pee to go straight though, you have to have something beneath to effectively absorb the pee. Newspaper alone doesn't do the job, towels work but don't dry much or absorb smells much. The best I have found is a layer of newpapers or potty/training pads, top that with a layer of pine shavings or other bedding of choice (I like pine best b/c it smells good and absorbs well, even though pine isn't the bedding of choice for guinea pigs this is b/c of the oils on it and since it will be under the fleece it will be ok b/c it won't be touching your pig and they won't breathe the dust since it is under the fleece however you still shouldn't use cedar b/c this is still too strong of fumes), you should top the wood shavings with a single layer of paper towels to prevent the fleece from sticking to the wood shavings. Every few days I look under the fleece and throw out soaked areas of wood shavings and replace them with fresh ones and then put the fleece back. Once a week I redo it all. This will save you some money and time since you can wash it and you don't have to use as much bedding and you don't have to dig through all the bedding daily for poo and pee spots. The best regular beddings are Eco bedding that is only recycled paper and has NO dust, but this is very expensive.

    31. QUESTION:
      Is it impossible to keep a rabbit cage clean?
      Other than cleaning it everyday? My rabbit is litter box trained completely outside its cage and only does the territorial poops inside the cage, but there are a TON of them and he gets it everywhere and his pee gets onto them sometimes.

      • ANSWER:

    32. QUESTION:
      How can I keep my hamsters from opening their cage?
      I have a three story cage and there is a latch on each story.My hamsters figured out how to open it and get out. (I've already lost my hamsters about three times each.I did find them.)

      How can I keep them from opening it?Without having it pressed up against a wall.

      Also, the are chewing on the bars and the paint is getting in their mouths and coming off the bars.How can I stop that, too? I have things to chew in their cage.

      • ANSWER:
        You can use binder clips to secure the doors. You can get them for a few dollars at Walmart or any other store. You can try offering them a variety of chew toys so they can wear their teeth down. Rodents have constantly growing teeth and need to chew on things to keep them trimmed. You can also try the bitter spray they use to deter dogs from chewing, you can find it at any pet store in the training section. It just tastes nasty and bitter, it won't hurt them

    33. QUESTION:
      How to train an african grey to stop biting and do tricks?
      A nine year old, non hand fed male african grey came to our lives a couple of months ago. We have to use a stick to get him off the cage then we can use a hand to get him off the stick, however he is growing his wings out and flies back to the cage every time we pick him up, and bites if you try to touch him in any way. He doesn't accept treats when he's off the cage, he's too scared. Also any tricks? Help?

      • ANSWER:
        You've only had this gray a couple months, and he's still scared -- of you, of new people and new places. Before you try to teach him tricks, teach him he can trust you and not be afraid of you.Patience, patience, patience.

        Instead of taking him out of his cage, sit by his cage and talk to him, or read aloud to him. Make yourself relaxed and calm, and speak to him in a quiet voice. Use his name now and then, tell him he's a good bird, good boy. Bring some fresh fruit with you, some cut in smallish pieces -- eat some yourself, then offer to him, He may not want to take it from your fingers, so drop a piece in his food dish or wedge it between the cage bars if large enough.

        Also, instead of you taking him out of his cage, try leaving the cage door open and let him decide when to come out . (Close all doors and windows so he doesn't fly outside.) Talk to him when you open the cage, then pretty much ignore him. If you leave the room and return, talk to him a little as you you leave, and again as you come back. Ideally, over time, the bird will feel more comfortable being out with you, and may cross the room to get to you. Stay calm and quiet when he does.

        Please go to

        https://companionparrotonline.com/

        This site has LOTS of good information, and it's FREE!
        There are articles about African Greys, articles about trust-building, articles about training.

    34. QUESTION:
      How can I keep my ferret from pooping on the cage floor?
      His cage is very large so it is difficult to remove for cleaning. I keep the litter box maintained but almost half the time he just goes on the cage floor.

      • ANSWER:
        First off ferrets will poop/pee where they smell it so don't clean the litter box too much.
        The litter should be emptied about once a week but the box itself should not be washed.

        Put the litter box wherever he goes the most.
        Watch him, when you see him backing up into a different spot pick him up and put him in the litter box.
        Praise him when he goes in the box.
        After a while he should figure it out, if not there's not much else you can do.
        Some ferrets never get litter trained and the only thing you can do is use puppy pads.

        I have 2 ferrets (used to have 3).
        One of them figured it out real fast and never goes anywhere but in the box, another one never goes in the box (even after years) and the last one sometimes went in the box and sometimes went where the other ferrets would go.

        Puppy pads on the bottom of the cage really helps to clean up and they are not very expensive.

        Also what litter are you using?
        Clay litter/Clumping Litter can be deadly to ferrets and scented litter can stop them from wanting to use the litter box.
        The litter box needs to have low sides and be at least the length of your ferret, because ferrets back into the litter box they will not bother using it if they can't get into it easily.

    35. QUESTION:
      How big will a cage have to be for my female siberian husky malamute?
      Ive looked at alot of cages, she is 14 weeks! But a malmute, im not sure what the difference in size would be! What size would you recomend?

      • ANSWER:
        I got my purebred malamute male a vari 500 size (their the plastic airline type crates- it's also called vari extra large sometimes). It's 40" x 27" x 30"h. You could go with that size or something a bit smaller (as being female and part husky will both likely make her smaller). My boy was 15 kg (33 lbs) at 14 weeks.

        And it's unlikely you'll need a divider for a husky/mal mix. Many smaller dogs don't consider the whole of their crates as their sleeping area so they might soil the other end (making house training harder). But huskies and mals grow so quickly it isn't normally a problem. And most huskies and mals are VERY reluctant to soil anywhere near their sleeping area (even more than other breeds)- when house training my mal, he never had an accident withing 5 feet of his crate. So I doubt you'll need a divider.

    36. QUESTION:
      How long does it take to potty train a rat?
      I've always had rats, but I've never heard of potty-training them until recently.
      I'm bringing two new babies home on Wednesday, and would like to try and get them to only use a litter box if possible.
      And also, is it possible to train female rats to urinate in the box? They say that it's next to impossible to stop a male from marking everything he sees, but what about females?

      • ANSWER:
        Hi! All five of my rats are litter-trained, and it's really easy. Make sure the actual box has low sides, mine were mini-drawers. What you want to do is put it in a corner of the cage where they go to the bathroom. Fill it with a bedding other than what you're already using. They place some of their poop in the box, and they will learn to go in it. It really only takes a couple of days, they're smart animals. Yes, the females will urinate in the box. The males will too, but they will still mark their territory elsewhere. I brought home two baby girls a few months ago to live with another grown-up female, who was already litter trained. The saw her doing it, and used the litter box too! The girls are better at it than the boys, though.

    37. QUESTION:
      How do I get the dog to stop barking at the hamster cage all day?
      I have a hamster and frequently dog sit for family. A yorkie I watch a lot is freaked out by the hasmter cage, even when the hamster is sleeping in the enclosed house the dog continues to bark/whine at the cage.

      • ANSWER:
        The Yorkshire Terrier was originally bred in the mid 1800's for keeping down the rats in Yorkshire cotton mills and coal pits. He was also used by the miners as a Sporting Terrier in rat killing contests. To this day, Yorkies love to hunt rodents and will let you know if you have a problem in your house. It's a natural reaction for them to become excited when one is in the room.

        A Yorkie should never be unsupervised when small animals are in the room. The easiest route would be to move the hamster to another room where the dog does not have access to it. Training a Yorkie to not react would be very difficult. They do learn best with rewards for good behavior. When the dog is sitting quietly, immediately reward them. It would be a long process because you are trying to remove a basic instinct, but it could be done over time with a lot of patience.

    38. QUESTION:
      What are the steps in cleaning a guinea pig cage?
      If I am going to get a guinea pig, my dad says I have to clean the cage as often as it takes to make sure it doesn't smell. How often is that and how long will each cleaning take? I would also like to know the steps in cleaning the cage.
      I've heard from a few people you can potty-train your piggy, how do you do that exactly?

      • ANSWER:
        First, start with some odor-control bedding. Carefresh makes the best kind out there...it's super absorbant, odor-free, and you can even get it in cool colors!

        I would remove individual pee spots every day and replace them with fresh bedding. That will keep down the smell almost completely. Just scoop out the part that is dirty, and replace it with a handful of fresh bedding, like changing a cat's litterbox. (guinea pigs can actually be litter-trained. Did you know that?)

        As far as the steps to cleaning it? To do a full-scale cleaning, you first put your piggies in a play pen or carrier to keep them safe.
        Remove all toys, and if any have been peed on or smell wierd, wash them in warm water with just a little bit of dish soap added.
        Empty ALL the bedding into the trash, and wash out the bottom of the cage with warm water and soap. This is pretty easy to do if you fill a large spray bottle with soapy water. Then you can just spray-and-wipe the whole thing instead of trying to fit it in the bathtub. The choice is up to you, however.
        Now, you don't HAVE to actually wash it each time you replace the bedding, but if you're paranoid about it smelling, then it won't hurt to be extra clean.

        Once the pan is nice and dry again, fill it with fresh bedding and put all the toys and guinea pigs back in their clean home!

        I can't tell you how often to do this. If you are really good at finding all the potty spots each day, then you probably will have to clean it every two weeks. However, if you have a smallish cage then you might have to clean it out every weekend. (one person mentioned cleaning theirs every three days!) When I had a super smelly mouse, I washed out his whole cage every Friday after school, and that was barely enough. Guinea pigs don't stink like mice do, so you may not have to clean as often.

        EDIT:
        I'm looking into getting a piggie myself, so I've never actually done the potty training, but I know it will take a LOT of patience. Explaining it will take forever, so I'll just give you a link to the directions. This page is really cool. It talks about good places to let your guinea pig play in, and to see how to potty train him, you'll need to scroll down almost to the bottom. It's REALLY descriptive.
        http://www.guineapigcages.com/floortime.htm

    39. QUESTION:
      How do I get my Cockatiel out of her cage?
      A week ago I got a cockatiel, I feel thats she has warmed up to the enviorment a bit. But I feel sad for her always being in the cage and she seems so inquisitive and contempt. I really do think though that she should come out and play and interact a bit for us to develop a better relationship (she accepts my presence but not my touch) and for her to know the place better. She is 7 weeks old. And has been clipped. How do I get her to come out and explore?

      • ANSWER:
        You will need to reach in and take her out of her cage. It will be best to take her into a small room like a bathroom to work with her. Be sure to close the lid on the toilet. The first thing that she needs to be trained to do is step up on command. You can research this on the internet and get a lot of valuable information. You should also get a good book. Cockatiels are great starter birds. They can live for quite a long time (my sister's is 17 years old). We have 23 birds ranging from finches to a Greenwing macaw. I have had birds for the past 25 years. Be patient and talk to someone at a reputable bird shop.

    40. QUESTION:
      How to quickly and easily train a puppy?
      I need help on training my puppy, he knows sit and paw but that's it, how do I get him to stop weeing and pooing in the hall? ( it stained the flooring ) !!!!!!!!

      • ANSWER:
        You need a big cage 2 times the size of your dog. Put half the side his bed and the other side a pee pad then close the cage. A dog won't pee on their bed so the only place it will go is on the pee pad. Once your dog gets used to this you can let the dog out more frequently and the dog will go to the pee pad by their self. After awhile toy can place a pee pad any where in teh house and your dog will recognize it and pee/poo on it.

    41. QUESTION:
      How to train my dog to not climb all over me and chew my sheets?
      Whenever I try and let my dog come in my bed with me, she won't stay put. In her cage she's snoring and calm. Whenever she's in my bed she makes this funny little happy snort at me and wags her tail and starts to pant and keeps jumping all over me. Rarely when she's calm she'll start chewing my sheets and makes holes in the blanket..
      Is there anyway I could stop this?
      Maybe some stimulating toys filled with treats?

      • ANSWER:
        Play with her before bedtime so she is tired before you let her in your bed. Take her to obedience school or buy a book on positive reinforcement training and work with her every day . Learn to say "NO" to your dog.

    42. QUESTION:
      How do you make a cheap parrot cage?
      I'm considering several ideas, one which is caging off a shower stall... Any websites or informative articles and advice on building a large indoor cage for my two goffins cockatoos?

      • ANSWER:
        you can get a black training kennel for puppies at Walmart, they are not very expensive at all, they even have a lower tray in the button that can be removed for cleaning purposes, add some branches and sticks around and you will have a very spacious and good looking cage.

    43. QUESTION:
      How can I train my hamster to go to the toilet where I want her to?
      I have a dwarf hamster, who is very neat and tidy and always goes to the toilet at the same place, in her tubes... I would prefer her to use another part of her cage, where there is bedding, because that would absorb the smell a lot better. With these plastic tubes she is using, it starts smelling immediately, even if I clean them every day.

      I have tried putting some of her droppings in a corner of her cage, but that doesn't really seem to work. Does anybody have any other ideas?

      • ANSWER:
        Ideally you need to buy a Hamster Potty, The corner ones are the best and pop it in a corner with some hamster potty litter or some chinchilla dust (Fine Sand) and add her droppings into it like you have being doing.
        If he/she trys to go somewhere else, if feasilble, follow her/him around the cage with the potty.. i.e if they go in the other corner pop the potty there. When introducing the potty completely clean the cage and disinfect all the tubes so that they can not smell themselves on it so they don't remember where they wee.
        If this doesnt seem to work, a bowl of chinchilla dust in the cage will encourage them to clean themselves and where they clean they tend to poo as well,
        Just be patient and keep on going, as they will soon get it... I know it sounds silly but i have trained 3 of my hamsters and my sisters and it jsut takes a bit of persaving. Dont Give Up and reward your hamster if they do it!!
        Good Luck

    44. QUESTION:
      Do any rat owners out there know of an easier way to clean/wipe down your rats cage?
      I adore my lil man but I really hate cleaning his cage when it needs doing since it can be a pain.
      Do you know of an easier way or don't you bother wiping it down and out etc?
      I usually wipe it down with warm water, sorry I forgot to mention that,
      I told Chad what I thought of him by email.
      Because he's the dirty one, dirty human!

      • ANSWER:
        Try litter training- rats are smart, most of them will pick up on the idea. Get a little litter container of some sort, and put the bedding he uses right now inside. Don't put that bedding anywhere else, find something totally different, like corncob or newspaper, and put that in the rest of his cage. Put a little scoop of dirty litter inside the litter pan, and he should get the idea and start using it. That way, all you have to clean is one little pan.

    45. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to house train a rabbit?
      I have adopted a rabbit from someone and he uses the litter box in the cage, but will not outside of the cage. I leave the cage door open so he can get back in but will not use it. The other owner even put litter boxes around the house and the rabbit would not use them in fact he would go right next to it.

      • ANSWER:
        There are several ways to train a rabbit to use the litter box out side of the cage. I have 2 house rabbits and it took them about a week to learn. I got my tips from these web sites:

        http://www.rabbitresource.org/

        http://www.binkybunny.com/site/BUNNYINFO/tabid/53/Default.aspx?gclid=CMCR1L7Yg4kCFRE9FQod_B6cLQ

        http://www.rabbit.org/

        Good Luck.

    46. QUESTION:
      How can I get my three month old puppy to stop going to the bathroom in her cage?
      I got her at the pound, so she's USED to just going in her cage. I've got her house trained, but she's just not getting the cage training.

      HELP PLEASE!

      • ANSWER:
        If you got your puppy at the pound it is going to be a lot harder to get her out of the habits she is used to. If you are trying to crate train and she is small try and minimize the size of the crate (some wire ones come with extra pieces that you can slide in and move it as the puppy grows, that way she understands that there is not enough room to go to the bathroom and lie there comfortably. And she will probably get the point really quickly if she has to lie in her own pee.
        Make sure you are bringing her out enough times during the day to go to the bathroom, I would say leave her alone for no more than four hours (and that is pushing it) she is still young and doesn't have the proper control of her bodily functions yet. And make sure you give her lots of praise when she does go to the bathroom outside.
        Another important thing is never to punish her, especially if you didn't see her do it, she doesn't understand that what she did was wrong. A lot of people take their animals and 'put their nose in the poo' and say 'bad dog' or whatever, all that does is make the animal scared of going to the bathroom!
        I hope this helps you a little bit, just be patient and give her a lot of love and she will get it eventually!!

    47. QUESTION:
      Can someone give me step by step instructions of how to clean a rabbits cage?
      I got a bunny about a week ago, and I think the cage needs to be cleaned now, but how? I wouldn't want to use any poisoness cleaners, or not clean it correctly. It's a metal/plastic cage with bedding.
      Do I need to buy a special cage cleaner?

      • ANSWER:
        Vinegar diluted in water will get rid of the calcium deposits from the urine. Rabbits naturally use the bathroom in the back left corner of their cage or pen. It is really easy to litter train him; just put a box of Timothy hay (I line my rabbit's with newspaper so it's easier to clean) big enough that he is able to fit in it completely wherever he tends to use the bathroom and he will love it! Bunnies eat the hay and poop at the same time. He will also love digging in it. Then for the rest of the cage, all he needs is a carpet square or something soft so his feet do not get sore. Wire bottom cages are terrible on their feet, so I suggest getting something without holes through the bottom, or covering it with carpet squares.

        PS> never give a rabbit a bath! Their fur is too dense and thick, you will never get him dry and he will freeze to death. Rabbits are also easily scared, and giving it a bath would be traumatizing, as well as blow-drying it. They groom themselves, and they cannot cough up hairballs like cats, so it is important to brush them, especially when they are shedding, which happens about twice a year.

    48. QUESTION:
      How long should I leave my new puppy in the cage?
      I just got a new puppy who's a german shepard/rottweiler mix. But when I put her in the cage to go to sleep, she eventually falls asleep for a little while. When she wakes up,she starts to cry. How long should I leave her in the cage when she's crying? I don't want to spoil her and when every time she cries, she comes out of the cage. So how long is too long to leave her in the cage crying?

      • ANSWER:
        it is one hour for each month of age with puppies, so a two-month-old puppy can only be alone/hold its potty for two hours at the most. While it is normal for a puppy to protest the crate, don't engage her. Put the crate by the bed, leave the night light on so she can see you and be reassured you have not abandoned her, use an old tee shirt with your scent on it, and play a soothing cd or radio. If she is waking up, take her out to potty or set a timer or alarm so she can go potty. She can't hold it all night at this age, and you don't want her to think it is o.k. to potty in her crate. I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like “tsst” and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they don’t know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you don’t want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

        REVISIONS:
        *I use a CRATE to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.
        *OUTSIDE, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.
        *BEDROOMS, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.
        *TREATS. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.
        *SOME PUPPIES will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying “go finish” until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesn’t sneak off, or for strange places.
        *YELLING. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.
        SOURCE: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. Thanks for your help!


    training cage

    Puppy Cage

    Our pets have special places in our homes and hearts. Sixty-five percent of homes in the United States have at least one pet; generally a dog or cat. But a really different pet would be a monkey. Caring for him will require a solid commitment because when you choose to share your life with an animal, you take him on for life - his life. And a monkey's lifespan is longer than that of a dog or cat. The first consideration would be his accommodation - and the choice of monkey cages is wide. You'll need the right type of housing for his needs and that depends on which breed of monkey you choose.

    We need to learn all we can about him - particular needs, food and housing so that he'll be cared for in the appropriate manner. Even a small monkey needs a lot of space; choose from the wide range of monkey cages online. It must be a place which is well-ventilated as well as being warm. If the space is indoors, he'll require natural light for skeletal growth - and natural light can be supplemented with full-spectrum light fixtures if necessary. If outdoors, half of his enclosure needs to be shaded at all times.

    Ideally, you'd duplicate his natural environment as much as possible otherwise you may have a depressed little animal with psychological problems on your hands. And the only way to do that is to research, research and research again. Few veterinarians specialize in monkeys so, at the end of the day, it's up to you. Monkey cages are expensive, ranging from about 0 for a small, indoor cage, up to 00 for an outdoor enclosure. You might consider building your own, but build it larger than you think he'll need, keeping in mind that he's going to grow.

    And speaking of growing, you'll probably be getting him very early in his life - just hours or a couple of days after birth - unnatural as most babies stay with their mothers. Your choice of monkey cages is therefore even more important because he is being deprived of those necessities provided by his mom. Consider getting two monkeys so that they'll be companions for each other - but your choice of monkey cages for two would be even more important.

    He'll need a cozy place in his cage in which to hide - plus a variety of toys. He'll need to climb, swing, rest, sleep and eat. Monkeys are very active, social animals who spend a lot of time playing. His toys should be made of wood as plastic ones won't last long with those sharp little teeth. He might like a toy tire hanging from a rope for swinging. Check outdoor play houses for children - swings and slides which are made from heavy gauge plastic with rounded edges. Plastic dumbbells, a hollowed out plastic log for him to hide in and play. Hang some pieces of garden hose in your monkey cages for him to swing on - but make sure they're well fastened outside the cage or he'll figure out a way to tear them off.

    What about diet? Commercially produced monkey food is good but he also needs fruits and vegetables. Bananas of course, but seeds, berries and nuts are also important. Grubs, grasshoppers, worms - these are things he would eat in the wild and boiled eggs add protein to his diet too. Go online to see what foods and treats are available. And one last thing - you will need a veterinarian who specializes in monkeys for his annual vaccines for both his and your protection.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1. QUESTION:
      "what is the best way to bring a new puppy into the home where another dog lives "?
      " the dog that lives there goes up to the puppies cage wagging her but, but once the puppy is out she wants nothing to do with it. The pup sniffs the other dogs ears and she snaps at the pup. The older one is an american bulldog. She is almost 2 years old. She is very loving with people, strangers and other dogs outside of the household. She was raised with a miniature doberman pincher. The puppy is a 5 month old english bulldog. It was also raised with another dog. We can't understand why the american bulldog is acting the way she is.

      • ANSWER:
        The adult dog is letting the puppy know that she is the "Alpha" dog. You have to remind her that you are the "Alpha" dog so to speak (remeber dogs are pack animals and will do this by instinct). Also you need to watch her, dogs get jealous just as people do. Make sure to pet her and feed her first, but only after you have fed yourself. This needs to be reinforced right now and it won't take her long to get the idea (remember - this is instinct to them and the alpha dog always eats first)

    2. QUESTION:
      How long does my female need to stay with her puppies at night?
      I have a Dachshund who now has five puppies that are four weeks old. We have moved them into a new room with a larger caged area. Our female does not like staying in the cage with them at night, but since she is in another room we cannot hear here whine to go to the bathroom. Our room is too small to have the puppies cage in there, so does she need to stay with them at night?

      • ANSWER:
        Mom should be with her puppies "still" in a safe place with enough room..... They are only 4 weeks old, and it is too soon to have them completely separated all night. It's also a little too soon for weaning. If none of this is possible, then there is no other choice than to do what you have to do. At least she will be with them early in the morning until latest at nite before retiring, right? Again, they will be ready to wean very soon.

    3. QUESTION:
      How do I stop my manky puppy doing the toilet on her bed!?
      Jack Russell bitch puppy, 10 weeks old, in process of trying to toilet train but she is not "grasping" the concept very well!!! Well actually not at all! she is a messy puppy, she pee's and poo's on her bed and sometimes lies in it. She is in a puppy cage at night in my kitchen with loads of room as she is so small but she still persists on messing on the bed?!! My other Jack Russell is a dog, he is now 4, he was extremely quick to learn the "you poo outside ONLY" concept! He didnt do gross things like do it in his bed either. Are bitches generally messier? Do they take longer to train? Is she just thick?! Any advice on how I can stop her doing this would be greatly appreciated!!! She stinks, the house stinks, her bed is washed daily!! Doing my head in! No smart/sarcastic answers please this is a desperately smelly gross habit I need help curing!

      • ANSWER:
        Number One - Dont Blame Your Puppy - She's a baby and doesnt know she's doing WRONG

        You didn't come TOILET TRAINED either and in my experience HUMANS take a lot longer !

        Number Two - Never punish her either.

        A bitch is actually cleaner than a male whatever the breed!
        And often Quicker to train.
        If she's caged at night then you are going to have to teach her two things at once, Make sure she has paper to go on as far from the bed as possible, put her in and then Wait. To teach her you have to be there to stop her misbehaviour she cant learn on her own. If she goes to sleep wait till she wakes and IMMEDIATELY put her on the paper when she does what you want PRAISE her immediatlely. The more fuss the better. Its the same for outside too. Take her where you want her to go wait till she squats and again make a fuss of her.

        KINDNESS trains far quicker!

        Always take her out dont just let her out, she needs to be told how clever she is when she does right and if you aren't with her she cant know CAN SHE! ALWAYs take her out when she wakes from even the shortest nap It is the time they are most likely to go. When you cant be there make use of the cage again and treat as for night-time. A pup always need a secure place to be if your'e not !
        Try to ignore the mess and without looking at her or saying a word remove the offending mess.Make sure you clean up well as any smell left on the bedding will encourage her to go there!

        You can buy a spray that will help too. You spray the paper before putting it down and it is supposed to attract them to that area, Does it work, I dont know as I've never needed it. I have used the above method with great success and adapt it for all my early training whether kitten or pup and IT WORKS every time.
        Some may take longer than others but they all get there in the end.

        Good luck! and try to have a lot of LOVE and PATIENCE!

    4. QUESTION:
      Where should I put my new puppy in relation to my other dog?
      I have a 9 month old chocolate lab and I will be picking up a 2 month old Siberian husky tomorrow. Currently when I leave for work I put my dog in his cage so he wont chew the place to hell. When I leave work now should I put the new puppies cage in the same room or a different room as to avoid problems/noise?

      • ANSWER:
        In separate crates for safety, but in the same room.
        Because if they are going to live together, they
        should be together. They will get use to each other
        easier and keep each other company . Less crying.

    5. QUESTION:
      8 week old puppy how can I stop the whining and barking?
      We have a 8 week old staffie puppy who sleeps in a puppy cage at night and we put her in there when we are out during the day.She wakes about 2-3 times during the night barking,whining and I get upo and let her out for a wee-poo.We have a largish back garden where she goes and plays but is constantly whining and its starting to drive us mad,even the neighbours have made comments about her,is there anything i can do to lessen this.

      • ANSWER:
        At the moment your pup thinks that crying and barking gets them out or attention, which it does, which in turn means they can dictate when you get up and of course they want you with them your pup loves you!

        So you have to ignore which is a process call extinction. What that means is you will have to endure an extinction burst (behaviour will get worse before it gets better) so the pup will be whining pretty loudly for a night or two before it goes away.
        http://www.teachingpuppies.com/stop-my-puppy-whining-barking-and-crying

        Crying also arises from boredom so see http://www.teachingpuppies.com/ways-to-entertain-a-bored-puppy

        Try http://www.teachingpuppies.com
        for my blog it should help you out :D

    6. QUESTION:
      My wife & I work & are not home for at most 10 hours a day?
      We want to buy a small dog (bishon). Is it cruel to have the puppy caged for up to 10 hours a day? We also have a small laundry room to keep the cage as she gets older to roam in.

      • ANSWER:
        Well yes and no. It is not ideal for any dog let alone a puppy to be left alone for that long. A puppy cant hold their bladder and bowels that long, so u will come home to a mess in the cage or in the laundry room. Dogs (esp pups need to be with their pack and family, and when they are alone so much, you miss out on major necessities such as training and socialization. Do u know anyone trustworthy who may be able to come over once or twice a day to let it out, and maybe play with it? If not I'd say wait until you have more time. If you can find someone to help u out and you promise to come home, walk, play, feed, love, and nurture the pup for a few hours before bed then I'd get one. I have been wanting to add a pup so badly to the family for over a year, but I knew it wasn't fair until 1. my youngest dog was out of her puppy stage (she is now 2), and I had her trained well, and 2. Not until I had a job with better hours, where I could spend time, loving, nurturing, socializing and training the pup. So now all that has happened and we have a new pup. Its alot of work, so be prepared. You know whether u should or shouldn't get one. Good luck either way.

    7. QUESTION:
      8 week old puppies outside in the cold?
      I live in North Carolina and it has been getting below freezing lately and I can't have inside pets. I am getting two chocolate labs tomorrow and they are 8 weeks old, can they stay on my porch in a puppy cage with lots of blankets or will they die from the cold? I know they can't regulate their own body temperatures well but I can't have them inside.
      i was just wondering, geez, you people are assholes.
      i got them anyways, and they are warm and their not freezing.

      • ANSWER:
        why get dogs if you are going to restrict them to living outside? You can't expect two 8 week old puppies to survive well outside in freezing temperatures after being brought up indoors with a mother dog and siblings to help keep them warm. if you can't keep the pups inside then don't get them.

    8. QUESTION:
      How to remove rust from dog kennel that is safe for dog?
      Got a metal dog kennel that has years of rust on it. I want to know what is safe to use for a new puppy? The cage is good except for rust. Would I use coke and alumi foil? What do I do once I get the rust off?

      • ANSWER:
        Ok, this is going to sound nuts, but I've done this, and it works.

        Mix a paste of Cream of Tartar and Lemon Juice.

        Cream of Tartar is the white powder available in the spice section at grocery stores.

        The Lemon juice is "Real Lemon", not lemonade. You don't want sugary stuff. You want Real Lemon in the green bottle.

        Mix the two together and apply to the rust. A thin paste is fine...it's hard to make a thick paste with these ingredients. Allow the paste to sit overnight. Then scrub with an S.O.S. pad and rinse well.

        Cream of Tartar and Lemon Juice are both anti-oxidants. Together they create a super anti-oxidant. Rust is oxidation. This paste will simply destroy the rust.

        By the way, don't be alarmed if the paste turns funny colors. This is normal. It will start out white, but as it is working, it often turns colors because it is removing oxidation.

        This mixture is non-toxic and completely safe for your puppy.

        -

    9. QUESTION:
      How can I discourage my 9 week old Jack Russell female puppy from continous non stop barking?!?
      My 9 week old Jack Russell female keeps barking incessantly when she wants attention, she sleeps in a puppy cage at night in the kitchen and early morning she starts this continual barking, its non stop bark after bark. If she is in the car, which she also travels in a med pet carrier for safety as she is so small she also barks incessantly when she wants out! I want to discourage her from this needless barking - please help! However she needs to stay in the puppy cage for safety as I have other older dogs too.
      My 9 week old Jack Russell female keeps barking incessantly when she wants attention, she sleeps in a puppy cage at night in the kitchen and early morning she starts this continual barking, its non stop bark after bark. If she is in the car, which she also travels in a med pet carrier for safety as she is so small she also barks incessantly when she wants out! I want to discourage her from this needless barking - please help! However she needs to stay in the puppy cage for safety as I have other older dogs too. She sleeps in the cage and my older dog sleeps in his bed right next to the cage so she's not alone!
      She sleeps in the cage and my older dog sleeps in his bed right next to the cage so she's not alone!

      • ANSWER:
        This site has a unique idea..worth a try> http://www.petcaretips.net/dog-barks.html
        another site with more ideas> http://www.directgov.gov.uk/HomeAndCommunity/InYourHome/AnimalsAndPets/AnimalsAndPetsArticles/fs/en?CONTENT_ID=10031394&chk=zMgIwy
        and here> http://www.perfectpaws.com/bark.html

        One person said that they put peanut butter in the dog's mouth when they wouldn't quit barking, and it put a stop to it after a few times...LOL maybe worth a try...

    10. QUESTION:
      How to remove rust from dog kennel that is safe for dog?
      Got a metal dog kennel that has years of rust on it. I want to know what is safe to use for a new puppy? The cage is good except for rust. Would I use coke and alumi foil? What do I do once I get the rust off?

      • ANSWER:
        It depends on the amount of rust. My first step would be to use a wire brush to mecahnically remove any loose rust.

    11. QUESTION:
      Does anyone know where Lakeside Pets get there puppies?
      I went there and they had puppies in cages for example: dachshunds, min poodles, yorkies, chi's...... It doesn't look like a shelter to me. I'm asking cause it might come from a breeder or a puppy mill. If you were wondering Lakeside Pets is located in Lakeside Mall in Metairie, Louisiana. Thanks so much for reading and replying.

      • ANSWER:
        If the dogs you listed above are in there...then they obviously come from BYB or puppy mills.

        Please stay away from there...go adopt!!! :)

    12. QUESTION:
      How do I make my dog stop humping my puppy?
      Well for everyone that read my question last night about how to make my Jack Russell and my new german shephard/lab mix get along, well just read my question.

      Lucky (Jack Russell) was a little upset at first and we kept the puppy in the cage for about an hour. Then introduced them with Lucky on the leash and within 10 mins they were best of friends.

      The problem now is that he is always trying to hump her. He is fixed and I know males still have urges, but she is 3 months old and just flops down when he is trying. However no amount of yelling, tapping his bum or anything stops him from constantly humping her.
      He is a very hyper dog that we got when he was over a year old and was never trained. We have had him for over 2 months now and have made a lot of progress. We don't want to have to get rid of Lucky.

      Please do not be rude in your answers. I really need a solution to this.
      IN MY QUESTION IT ALREADY SAYS HE IS NEUTERED!!!!!!

      • ANSWER:
        First you need to get her spayed as soon as possible. There are some vets that will spay at 3 months old and younger. I also agree to try the spray bottle. If regular water doesn't work, try adding vinegar to the water. Most dogs hate the smell of vinegar and it won't hurt him in anyway, even if you get it in his eye by accident. One of my males try to hump my oldest male all the time. He would just lick the water when I sprayed him but when I added vinegar and he tasted that, he stopped immediately at whatever he was doing. They spray bottle works great for mine. All I have to do now is say BOTTLE and they all retreat.

        ______________________________
        Additional: Yes it is most likely a dominance issue. But it can also become sort of an obbession. I have one that used to be obbessed with humping my oldest dog. Using the bottle on him has stopped him. Now it is only an occasional thing.

    13. QUESTION:
      What is the process of adopting a puppy from an animal shelter?
      Like, do you have to bring anything with you for your puppy? like a cage, or anything? What is the process?

      • ANSWER:
        Depending on the shelter and what kind of dog you want (like a German Shepherd or Pit Bull) they might require a copy of your home owners insurance. They might want references and some places don't provide leashes or collars so you're probably going to want to bring them just incase.

    14. QUESTION:
      When is my puppy gonna get her female issues?
      My puppy is about 3 months old and when I stay at my boyfriends house I keep my puppy in a cage with his also 3 month puppy ( her brother) and I just wantged to know when she's gonna get her period so we can figure out where to keep her when she does have it. We already decided one the doggy diaper's but still.

      • ANSWER:
        Dogs first go into heat between 4-6 months of age, then every 6 months. You should have her spayed between 4-6 months old. It is better for her health (if not spayed, they can get mammary tumors and an infected uterus when they get older).

    15. QUESTION:
      How do I stop my dog from humping and nipping/biting at my new puppy?
      I didn't really get a good answer last time so here we go again.

      Lucky (Jack Russell) was a little upset at first and we kept the puppy in the cage for about an hour. Then introduced them with Lucky on the leash and within 10 mins they were best of friends.

      The problem now is that he is always trying to hump her. He is fixed and I know males still have urges, but she is 3 months old and just flops down when he is trying. However no amount of yelling, tapping his bum or anything stops him from constantly humping her.
      He is a very hyper dog that we got when he was over a year old and was never trained. We have had him for over 2 months now and have made a lot of progress. We don't want to have to get rid of Lucky.

      Oh and now he is nipping/biting at the puppy out of frustration.

      Please do not be rude in your answers. I really need a solution to this.
      AGAIN, DOES NO ONE READ MY POSTS. MY JR LUCKY IS FIXED. AHHHH!!!!

      • ANSWER:
        I'm a dog trainer, so I hope I can help :)

        Dogs operate on a pack system, and it seems like Lucky is trying to make it clear that he is above the new puppy in the heiarchy. Thus the humping and nipping. When the puppy flops down, it's her way of being passive and saying she's OK with him being dominate.

        When you intercede, to Lucky, it probably FEELS like you're telling him that you would prefer the puppy to be dominate. You're saying "puppy is #1, not you!"

        When you get a new puppy, it's important to keep the existing dog above the new puppy in the pack order, or the older dog will feel threatened and it will result in this sort of behavior. In time, as the puppy gets older, sometimes the order might change. But to start, older dog is always #1. Simple things to do: Always feed the older dog first. The older dog gets everything first. Goes through doors first. Gets treats first. Spoken to first.

        Also, make sure that Lucky is getting TONS of exercise. Maybe someone in your household can take him daily to the park for some one on one action. Tire him out so when he returns to the house he's ex-haust-ed. Just like kids, when dogs are full of energy with noplace to put it, they go bananas: Think rainy days without recess. Bad news...

        FOR SURE take both dogs to group training classes as soon as possible. If you're concerned with expense, most cities offer community classes that are low cost. It's very important that the dogs get socialized. Being a part of a larger "class pack" can work wonders.

        In addition, be sure to keep your eyes focused on the positive. Notice when Lucky is being a good dog, and reward him with pets, kind words, and treats. Have him work for those things... no free petting or treats. Same for the puppy (as cute as I'm sure she is, you will want to cuddle with her all the time... but only give love after they've worked for it, ie. doing sits, following directions, etc.)

        For future knowledge, it's best to introduce new animals to the family outside of your home in a non-territorial area (the park, a friends' yard etc.) It creates a less competitive energy for introductions.

        Anyways, I hope that helps. Good luck, and please give Lucky time to show you how good a dog he can be :)

    16. QUESTION:
      How do we introduce our house rabbit to our new puppy?
      We have a feisty and quite unsociable house rabbit and have just got an 8 week old shihtzu puppy, we are wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to how we can introduce them to one another and hopefully make them become friends.
      So far we have put the puppy in her cage and waited patiently for the rabbit to sniff her, but the rabbit is making no effort to approach the cage, although she is very curious. If anyone has any good suggestions we would be very gratefull???

      • ANSWER:
        Have the dog in the crate and let them sniff each other. The crate separating lets them see and sniff each other, but they can't do anything.
        Then once you feel comfortable with that then put the pup on the leash and hold the rabbit in your arms. Slowly go down to level with the puppy, and don't let the dog jump up or scare the rabbit. Now they can meet even closer. If you feel comfortable keep the dog on the leash but let the rabbit out of your arms. Then when you feel it's okay let you can let the leash off the puppy. But be there with toys for the puppy so she's not too interested in the rabbit to start any trouble. You can also be treating your rabbit at all times throughout the introduction. Keeping it calm is key.
        You can reverse steps at any time if you feel uncomfortable and start over. I'm sure they'll get along though- especially since it's a brand new puppy.

        good luck!

    17. QUESTION:
      Can you leave a puppy home while you go to school?
      I am getting a puppy soon. Can I leave my puppy home while I go to school. I'd leave my house at about 7:00, and get home at about 3:00. I don't ever have something going on after school, I just ride the bus home. If I get my puppy a BIG cage to play with, lots of toys, a little bit of food and water, and some other fun things just until I get home, will it be okay?

      • ANSWER:
        No. A puppy shouldn't have a big crate, that's not what crates are for.

    18. QUESTION:
      How do I get my adult dog to quit eating the puppy food? It's making her fat.?
      I already put put eat of their food in their own crates, but the older dog always is sneaking in puppy's cage and stealing her food.

      I don't want to lock puppy's cage because she is a nibbler...she eats a little bit at a time throughout the day...

      Their crates are like thier own little bedrooms. In fact it's where they prefer to sleep a lot of the time. I don't even lock them in unless we are gone. So...

      • ANSWER:
        If you don't want to give the puppy a designated eating time, you have to assert your dominance and let your older dog know that that food is not his.

        I suggest Googling some sites for instructions on how to train your dog.

        Remember, you are the pack leader. Calm confidence will get results. =)

        Good luck!

        - Kel

    19. QUESTION:
      What can i do to help my puppy from keeping me awake all night.?
      I have two puppies that are caged together on a night ,one is ok but the other just crys to come out at 4am every morning.
      I get up take her outside to do he wee wee,put her back and she still yells till i have to get up.We are not getting any sleep so i wondered if anyone out there has had the same thing and might be able to help in some way as i am getting really tired.

      • ANSWER:
        We tried the clock, the toy, the radio....finally realized our puppy was lonely--we put his kennel in our room...end of problem :-) Always sleeps through the night.....

    20. QUESTION:
      Can my 9 week old siberian puppy sleep in a crate all night?
      Can I leave my siberian puppy in her cage all night with the door shut or do I have to leave the door open or should I just not put her in her crate at night? Any answers will be helpful, thanks

      • ANSWER:
        Put puppy in the cage at night, and this is highly recommended or you will wake to surprises. You can bring the cage in your room or have an additional cage in your bedroom. This keeps the puppy from being lonesome at night. Here are cage-training guidelines, which make training a dog/pup much easier:

        A puppy must be cage trained. A dog cage is similar to the den the mother dog would raise her puppies in. The mother dog keeps the den clean, and the puppies are used to being in a clean area. A puppy does everything it can to avoid messing in its cage, if the cage is only large enough for it to stand in and turn around. No larger.

        A cage should NEVER be a source of punishment, but you should give the pup a treat when going into the cage. The pup must remain in the cage unless you are supervising her on a tiled surface, and only for a brief period of time.

        1. Put puppy in the cage and place the cage in a main area of the home: kitchen, family room, living room. Any other site is considered punishment because dogs need to be with their "pack" (you).
        2. Take puppy out ON A LEASH for the training, in the morning and wait with him.
        3. As soon as he does anything, praise him profusely, as though he just laid a nest of golden eggs.
        4. Bring back inside and give him a treat: "Good dog went OUT".
        5. Feed pup.
        6. Repeat numbers 2 through 4.
        7. Now you can play with her ON A TILED SURFACE, for only about 10 minutes. Longer and you ask for accidents and an accident is a signal for him to learn to go in the house.
        8. If he makes a "mistake", the mistake was yours in leaving him out of the cage for too long. You won't do that, again. Pick it up with a paper towel, place in the grass, show pup, AND only say: "Good dogs go out", in a CALM voice. NO scolding - remember, you made the mistake.
        9. At night, you can have a second cage in your bedroom - dogs don't like being alone, at night either.

        Your pup will be fine if you follow simple cage training guidelines. They are humane because they give the pup the opportuninty to be successful and not end up at the shelter, as well as the cage representing the den.

    21. QUESTION:
      Can a veteranarian legally sell animals? There was a vet who had a puppy living in a cage, for adoption?
      The vet had no sign indicating that these animals were for sale, or "adoption." The puppy lived in the cage for months on end. No bed or toys, only a towel. Is this legal in California? No one in the staff even took the puppy home at night.

      • ANSWER:
        Yes it's perfectly legal. Since I take my dogs to the vet regularly, I've seen dogs and cats turned into him or dropped off at the front door of his office on a regular basis. I see animals he takes in all the time. He checks them out, treats them if they are sick and need treatment, spays or neuters them and finds them the perfect loving and responsible homes. Never have I seen any animals he had, treated badly, left in a cage for months on end and not properly taken care of. As a matter of fact, they get a lot of love and attention and they look extremely healthy. They are adopted very quickly. They are never there for a long period of time.

    22. QUESTION:
      Does man have the same attitude on animal cruelty as our forefathers did on slavery?
      We can buy a puppy [caged] from a pet shop..taken away from its brothers sisters without a thought

      Question is..do we still have the same uncaring feelings towards other helpless creatures .. just like our predecessors practised without any thought

      • ANSWER:
        That's quite a good question. Although people now recognise equality of all people (human rights act) we still believe (maybe rightly so) that we are "better" than animals. Many arguments say that animals don't suffer in the same way as we do (or at all) as they have less complex brain functions. For arguments supporting equality between all living things you should do some research on Peter Singer.

    23. QUESTION:
      Where to buy shots for 6 week old puppies to administor myself?
      Surprise! I woke up this morning to find that my Husky Sadie had a little for 5 puppies in her cage. All look great and are feeding good so far.

      I'd like to avoid taking all of them to the vet for shots and I know people who have done the shots themselves but where do you get the packs? And can you also do the worm shots too?

      • ANSWER:
        I would suggest that you take your dog to the vet instead.

    24. QUESTION:
      How long should I lock my puppy in his cage?
      I have a four month year old dachshound. Hes pretty well potty trained.. My boyfriend usually has to work long 10 hour shifts. Me on the other hand, Im a waitress and sometimes I have to work longer than exspected. So its hard to let the dog out as frequent as possible on SOME days. (not everyday is like this) Anyways I was wondering how long would it be okay to lock him up in his cage during the day, with no food or water or very little? He seems to knock it all out of the small dishes attached to the cage. Also if I leave him out of the cage during the day he chews up everything and does end up going potty on the floor, even though he is trained its like he wont hold it outside of his cage when we are not home. How long is TOO long to keep him locked up during the day?
      I should have wrote this earlier.. for those of you who keep telling me I need to give my pet to someone who can take care of it better.... Hense the fact I put SOMETIMES he has to stay in his cage for long hours.. also i never I never said i kept him in there for 10 hours, what i ment when my boyfriend worked that long is, he does not have time to take him out.... and sometimes i work LONGER than I exspected.. but this doesnt happen so frequently..

      • ANSWER:
        The general rule of thumb is one hour for each month old a puppy is. So at 4 months, 4 hours is really the longest you should crate before letting him out to go potty. Putting food in the crate isn't a good idea, as eating can often stimulate a bowel movement and you don't want him to have to hold that for very long.

        Your best bet is to see if there is someone you trust who might be willing to stop by on a day you may have a long shift to let puppy outside for a potty run and a little excercise. He's still very young and learning to hold it when he has run of the house, but eventually this will happen. If this isn't an option, then confining him to a safe room where clean up will be easy is your next best option. We have a Doxie who was fine by a year old for being trustworthy loose in the house. It just takes time.

        People here are way to quick to judge the working person who has a pet. At least you're concious of your puppy's needs and willing to ask what is best for puppy in order to care for him properly. Would be nice if some of these folks would realize that. People have to work to make ends meet and even afford the care for their precious 4 legged friend. It's a shame some here are so quick to judge.

        Good Luck with your puppy! Doxies are wonderful dogs!

    25. QUESTION:
      How should I handle my puppy crying the cage?
      My 9 week-old Rottie is crying in her cage, it's her first night, I'm wondering if I should tell her no or completely ignore her?
      Creep: Because then I'll be training him that he can get whatever he wants by crying.
      Well I thought that since it was her first night that I would give her what she wants...But I guess I'll just completely ignore her,, hope mom doesn't get mad.

      • ANSWER:
        Ignore her. She's scared, but she'll get used to it. Don't cave into her though no matter how helpless she sounds. She'll be okay, the poor baby. Good luck!

    26. QUESTION:
      Would it be possible to litter train a 6 wk. old puppy, if it lives and plays with all cats?
      We also have 2 cats that are litter trained, and now we are thinking about getting a puppy. The puppy has been cage raised with it brothers so far, and does it business on a piece of cardboard. I think it could be trained to use the litter box.

      • ANSWER:
        Dogs can be trained to do just about anything. I have heard of apartment dogs using a litterbox before. Just be sure you clean the box every day (at least...with 2 cats and a dog!!) and don't let puppy eat the cat droppings.

    27. QUESTION:
      How do you keep outside dogs warm in winter?
      One of my friends had four dogs dropped off at her house.There are two puppies and two adults. They put the puppies in a cage inside their house, but they refuse to bring the other dogs in. She has a small building outside her house that she put food and water in for the bigger dogs. She also placed a couple towels in the building for them to lay on. If there is anything else she should do to keep them warm please let me know. Thanks!

      • ANSWER:
        She could take them to the nearest no kill shelter. I wonder if she would stay warm with a couple of towels outside?

    28. QUESTION:
      How long can you leave a puppy in a small cage?
      I dont leave food or water in the cage. I leave her in there when I go to work. Is this ok?

      • ANSWER:
        An 8 hour dog is far too long for her to go without food, water and potty break...don't you eat, drink, and take toilet breaks during the day? and her bladder is not nearly as developed as yours until she is much older..She should only be expected to hold her pee for 1 hour per month of age..
        If she is continually stressed by doing without her physiological needs being met..she will become traumatized, be more likely to catch disease, from having a suppressed immune system, and act out behaviorally, as any traumatized youngster will do..

    29. QUESTION:
      How do I stop my puppy from peeing in her crate?
      I have had my puppy for about one week. The first 3-4 nights she had peed and pooped in her crate. I thought that they don't pee or poop in their "safe place". I am feeding her two times a day at specific times, 10 minutes at a time. She seems to be healthy. I don't feed her 6 hours before we go to sleep. I have changed her bedding at least once a day, and sometimes twice and it is wet with urine.

      She has not pooped in her crate for a few days. She just keeps peeing. I take her out to go potty shortly after she eats and when she wakes up, and before I go to bed. What am I doing wrong?
      Its the smallest crate I could find and she will fit it when she is grown.
      She is a Palmerainian Chihuahua

      • ANSWER:
        First of all,no bedding in her crate.That means NO blankies,no bed,no toys,no nothing.Just the dog in the crate.Secondly,it has to be a small enough area where she can't pee on one side and go sit on the other side of the cage.Block it off with a box or something to make it smaller inside.No blankies to soak up what she does pee.The no water for 6 hours before bed seems a litle extreme.maybe a couple hours before bedtime,and make sure she goes out one last time each night.Good luck.

    30. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to handle shelter dogs and puppies?
      I have dogs (2) of my own but they have their own personality and the shelter dogs likewise

      i will be volunteering and i will need to pick the dogs and puppies out of their cages either to clean the cage or let a potential adopter hold them..

      how should i go about approaching the dogs or puppies so they do not attack

      • ANSWER:
        If they are somehow aggressive. when you aproach them go slowly if you just quickly open the cage they will think something is seriously wrong. Just walk slowly and talk in a " I'm talking to a baby" voice and they should calm down

    31. QUESTION:
      How can i get my puppy to stop peeing in crate and on carpet?
      Please help! We have a 2 year old chihuahua, and 3 weeks ago got a 14 week old pit/terrier mix puppy. My husband and i work opposite shifts so one of us is always home to walk the dogs. But our new puppy keeps peeing in the crate the moments we aren't home and as soon as we come back in from walking them he pees on the carpet. We've tried rationing his water and he gets plenty of exercise.

      • ANSWER:
        It's a simple process.
        I'm going to guess that the crate is a bit large for potty training.
        The way you do it is this:
        Take the dog out and watch him pee. If he does, this earns him about 30-45 minutes to play in the house. Then after 30-45 minutes, you take him out again to pee, if he does he gets another 30-45 minutes to play. If not, he goes right in the crate. He stays there for 30-60 minutes after which he is taken outside. If he pees, he gets praise and gets to play for 30-45 min. Pretty soon, you can try 1 hour. If there is an accident, you put him in his cage immediately and he stays there for 30-60 minutes. Then back outside to pee.
        He never gets to come in and be free in the house unless you have seen him pee. He always goes to the crate after an accident.
        It takes consistency and I always talk to my dogs so they know voice commands. When I take them out, I say "Go potty baby" and soon they know.
        Also, when I take them out to pee, we are not there to spend 20 minutes sniffing around. If they do not do their dootie for me in 2-3 minutes, they go back in the crate. That's bc I'm the boss of the pee pee game : )

        Your crate should be just big enough for the dog to lay down with legs stretched out. Any much bigger and they will pee in it.

        Walking the dog is not potty training. It's exercise and when I take my pups on a good long walk, they can go in their cage when we get back for 30-45 minutes to sleep. Then when they wake up, I take them to pee. Same routine every time.
        You do not need to rub noses, but sometimes I do take them to look at their accident and tell them "no" in a serious voice. No reason to hit b/c if the dog pisses on the floor, it's because someone has not followed the training rules. If it's me, then maybe I should have my nose rubbed in it : )

        P.S. I use timers. It has to be consistent. My last pup was potty trained completely after only 6~7 weeks. He's not had ONE accident in the house since he was 4 1/2 months old. He's awesome!!
        Your dog should not take more than a month of this since he's older. You may be able to quickly move to letting him play in the house for 2 hours before taking him out. You'll know if that's too long to be out bc he will have an accident.

    32. QUESTION:
      Is there any way to make my puppy not hate her cage?
      My puppy despises being in her cage, I tried making her comfortable with it by taking it apart and letting her play inside the peices, then I lined it with a fluffy down blanket. I put several chew toys in there for her, I throw in some treats too when I put her in, but she hates it and howls the whole time she is in there. How can I make her not hate it in there?

      • ANSWER:
        dont treat it like a cage. treat it like a bed. put blankets in there that smell like you, a soft toy and dont force the dog in. slowly try to lure her in. when she's in there, slowly close the door and see how she reacts. if she freaks out open the door. this takes time but it works in the long run. if you need a quick simple (yet temporary) plan, try making the cage look like this then lay a blanket over it. the barking should become less. good luck

    33. QUESTION:
      How do I get my puppy to piss outside?
      My puppy leaves puddles everywhere and I am frequently stepping in it.
      How do I get him to stop doing that?

      • ANSWER:
        Best thing to do is buy a kennel, cage or playpen. First of all it is good as you can put the dog in there for short periods of time when you can't watch it. Also, dogs are very 'clean' animals. They HATE peeing inside a small area in which they are confined.

        You can put the dog in there for short periods and then take it outside after you take it out. It should then pee outside as it should be holding it. After it has had it's pee outside, praise it, and let it in the house (not back in the kennel) and play with it for a while, so it knows that it gets attention when it has a pee outside.

        This is also a great way to teach puppies to hold their bladders when young.

    34. QUESTION:
      How do I stop my puppy barking all night?
      My puppy is 3-4 months old and has been barking all night. How do i get it to stop? It has food and water in front of it. I don't know what breed it is. Please help!!
      And it sleeps outside.

      • ANSWER:
        Is your puppy crated at night? Can your puppy see you where their crate is if they are? Sometimes its just that they need to see or hear you... You could try putting a clock that ticks next to their cage... or even find the recording of a heart beat to help calm your puppy

    35. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to house train a puppy and also how do i get my cats to use the litter box?
      i take my puppy out and she sits there and wont move i try to get her to walk and she wont and then we come inside and she uses the bathroom. My cats use the litter box but still use the floor i never had a cat do this before. PLEASE HELP new baby on the way and this is not clean for a baby

      • ANSWER:
        i had to crate train my puppy. it killed me to see her in a cage, but dogs wont go to the bathroom where they sleep. And as for the cats?? I dunno. More litter boxes? Pick up dirty laundry??make the bed?? make it so theres no way for them to snuggle their little behinds into anything fluffy.

    36. QUESTION:
      How can I prevent my 8 week old puppy from eating its feces?
      My puppy is a Shih Tzu. I do not know why he is doing this and I need to stop this unhealthy behavior as soon as possible.
      I am feeding him quality food and clean up right after him. He is so small I am watching him very carefully.

      • ANSWER:
        If you have an 8 week old puppy, he should not have access to his own feces. He should be in a cage that is small enough that he can only stand up and turn around in. In that case, he should not poop inside the cage. He should be accompanied outside, by you, so he should not have the opportunity, while outside. Perhaps he is trying to keep the area you are keeping him in, clean. He should not be pooping inside the house, at all. Look up, or get a book on cage training.

    37. QUESTION:
      How do you stop a new puppy from whimpering and crying when your not at home?
      I JUST GOT A NEW PUPPY, AND HE IS A BLACK LAB/SPRINGER MIX. WHEN I LEAVE FOR WORK HE WHIMPERS AND CRYS THE WHOLE TIME I AM GONE, HE IS ONLY LEFT ALONE FOR 4 HOURS AT A TIME. MY DOWNSTAIRS NEIGHBORS ARE THE ONES WHO INFORMED ME OF HIS CRYING. I NEED HELP TO STOP THIS PROBLEM ASAP, ALSO HE HAS ALL KINDS OF TOYS AND BONES TO CHEW ON, WHAT WILL MAKE HIM STOP!?!? PLEASE HELP!

      • ANSWER:
        This is such a totally normal reaction for a puppy who is left alone, that there is no training that will help at this stage..However, you can help him be less stressed by giving him a little chamomile tea while you are gone..
        Chamomile tea works very well, and is safe for him.
        Dump it out of the teabag, and use 1 teaspoon for small breed, up to 1 tablespoon for a large breed. Mix it in a little canned food, such as Mighty Dog, or Cesar's, and give about 30 minutes before he needs to relax. It will keep him happy, but reduce stress. It can be given as needed.

        Puppies are just like toddlers.. If you can imagine how much a baby would cry if left alone for even 4 hours,,the puppy goes through exactly the same thing...the very best solution would be to take him to a doggy day care..just as you would a toddler.. for 4 hours, 5 days per week, it might surprise you how little it will cost..Call around and get references for any that are near you..they don't cage up the dogs, but allow them to interact, and actually continue the potty training and leash training..as well as important socialization...It is really a good idea...if your pup hasn't had all puppy shots, you will need one that has a nursery..

    38. QUESTION:
      How do you know a puppy is healthy if you buy it from the store ?
      Because i have a brother and he bought a puppy from a puppy store and its 9 years old right now and still alive its a Labrador retriever.And the dog hasn't got sick much, probably for its whole life it was sick only about 3 or 4 times.

      • ANSWER:
        Pet Shop Puppies: Buying a Puppy From a Pet Store
        The reality is that no responsible breeder would ever place one of their puppies in a pet shop. A breeder who has placed a puppy in a pet shop has disqualified himself as a responsible breeder.

        A USDA license is not something that should reassure you. On the contrary, it is warning sign that a breeder is cranking out lots of puppies.

        My advice to you is to IGNORE everything pet shop people tell you. The pet store industry has sophisticated marketing manuals that teach pet shop owners and employees exactly what to say to persuade you to part with your money. Don't be gullible.

        Convenience, immediacy, no-questions-asked . . . those are the advantages of pet shops. The ONLY advantages, in fact. The problem is, almost no one who buys from a pet shop stops to consider the DISadvantages.

        There are health tests that can determine, with 100% accuracy, whether a puppy has inherited certain serious health problems. There are other health tests that can't say for sure, but can predict the risk. Responsible breeders do these tests. Breeders who sell to pet stores don't.

        Other pet shop puppies have learned to nip from all the people who take them out of their cages and play wrestling games with them. This encourages the puppy to growl and nip and mouth people's hands – bad lessons that can be hard to correct.

        When you buy one of those cute puppies in the pet shop, you buy more than the puppy. You buy the budding physical, behavioral, and health problems created by the bad genes passed on by untested parents whom you never get to see or evaluate. And you feed a profit-hungry industry that's doing a lot of harm to innocent creatures.

        The truth is when you buy a puppy from a store is there is NO way to tell if it will be healthy!

        My mum brought my Lab mix as birthday present when I was 12, and I did'nt know about puppy farms back then-she pretty good for a puppy farm dog but does have a few issues

        Gen issues include-She is approx 15years
        Athritis since she was 2 1/2
        Cruical ligament surgery since she was 2 1/2
        Mysterious illness no vet can diagnose-symptoms are like Botulism
        Behavioural issues-Mountain blankets, nipping if she doesn't like something your doing, excessive mouthing.

        My grandma had Collie called Sasha brought from a breeder
        Perfectly healthy up until 10years
        -Athritis
        -Enlarge heart.

    39. QUESTION:
      How do you get small puppies to not tinkle when they get excited?
      My puppy is almost 5 months old and still doing it. He will potty outside come in get excited and tinkle all over the floor it's embarassing when visitors come over. Please help! I asked the vet and they said to imtroduce him to as many exciting situations as possible. It doesn't seem to be working. I need some other suggestions.

      • ANSWER:
        i would work on getting him calm before you come back inside. make him sit and stay in front of the door and then once he's calm, go inside. if you start to move and he gets excited again, just tell him "no" and make him sit and stay again. do it outside, that way at least hes not peeing when you get in. then once he can go in calmly give him a treat and do it again. just keep doing it, over and over again. if there is anyone else you live with, make them practice it as well. i woud also practice it for when you come home. i would hope he is crated during the day if no one is home. put him in his crate, do your "leaving the house" ritual. (i have one) and walk out the door. sit out in the car or something for about 5 min and then come back in. don't make eye contact don't talk, if he starts to get excited just tell him to "sschh" like Cesear Millan does and maybe do a quick snap. but don't talk to him. make him be calm before getting out of the cage. if he is and you go over to get him out and open the cage, and he starts to get excited, just keep him in till he calms down, tell him "no" or do the "sch" thing until he sits and stays, then put his leash on him and with no words take him outside. talking and stuff to them makes an excited dog worse. good luck

    40. QUESTION:
      What size harness should I get for my 10 week old Pomeranian puppy?
      I am picking my Pomeranian puppy up from the airport next Tuesday and I was wondering what size harness should I get for him? He is going to turn 10 weeks next week. I could go with size small, but I still think small will be too big for him since he is still a puppy. Any suggestions?

      • ANSWER:
        Go with the smallest you can find, and as he/she grows, expand and adjust until he/she grows out of it.
        Otherwise it would be better to get him home in a travel crate, then measuring his rib cage and neck circumference when you get home. It would also get him used to you handling him for future ease of grooming
        ESPECIALLY for a Pomeranian :-)

    41. QUESTION:
      How do I get my puppy to stop tearing up her potty pad?
      I have a 3 month old chocolate lab puppy. We've been potty training her to go outside with a consistent schedule and she's been doing great with that. At night, though, we put her in her kennel with one side being her blankets and toys and the other side has her puppy pad. She was doing very well with it until recently. For the past few days, I've woken up and her puppy pad is torn to shreds. She can't hold it all night long, so if we don't give her a pad she'll just go on her blankets and then sleep on it (gross). I don't know why she's recently started tearing her potty pad to shreds, but I REALLY want her to stop. Any suggestions?

      • ANSWER:
        Throw it away. She is smart and knows that in her sleeping area, the smell of urine would attract other animals. That is why the mother dog keeps the den (now her cage) impecably clean - so as not to attract preditors.

        Since she is small, just like a baby, you will need to get up once at night for a little bit, to let her out. That is how it is with babies. But, at three months, this should not really last much longer. If she persists in needing to go out at night, call the vet and be sure she does not have a bladder infection. Be sure the cage is small enough that she can't go on things and get away from it. I would guess another couple weeks ought to be enough, but ask the vet to be sure.

    42. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to silence a new puppy after you bring him home?
      I just got a new puppy and he crys very loud at night. He has a crate with toys,blankets, and has been feed and watered, also has a hot water bottle in crate wrapped in towel to be "pretend mommy". I have 2 other dogs and have even tried putting them with him (1 at a time) for company and he still howls. The other dogs just look at me to get them out fast! Tonight is # 2 night and I just want some sleep! Any ideas?

      • ANSWER:
        This is the first time in his life that he has had to sleep by himself without mom or siblings.

        When i brought my pup home I slept by the crate with my hand in the cage till he went to sleep, then shut the door so I could sleep. Then after he got used to that (2 nights) and got reliant and comfortable with me I gave him the shirt i had worn that day for him to sleep with (had my smell fresh on it)

        Where is the crate? Put it in the room you are in. Who wants to sleep in a strange place all alone? NOT ME!

        If he cries do not console him, do not take him out, do NOT yell at him, do not look at him.

        Puppies do need to go potty in the middle of the night like babies. So take him out (if he wakes you up in the middle of the night) to pee (praise and lots of love for peeing outside!) and then right back in his crate.

        It can take a few nights for him to settle in he is probably scared to death.

        Good luck and be PATIENT!

    43. QUESTION:
      How do i get my puppy to pee and poop outside?
      Hi,
      i was just wondering how do i get my puppy to pee and poop outside? I'll take her for a walk of about an hour and when she comes in, she pees and poo's inside. I really do not want her to do this! She is 11 weeks old. Also, how long after feeding should i wait to take her out for a walk?
      Thanks!

      • ANSWER:
        Get her a kennel or a closed in area that's just big enough for her to turn and lay down in. Animals don't tend to "make a mess" in their house (kennel). Keep her in there until you take her out to go potty. Walk her outside and constantly say "lets go potty or lets go outside". Keep it simple. Then while you're outside stay on her about going potty "go potty or go tee tee". If she goes praise her immediately!!! within 5 seconds of it or while she's doing it (short memory) She will relate going potty to good and will want to do it. If she doesn't go potty take her back inside and put her back in the kennel and try again in a little while. If she goes this time, bring her inside or let her play outside. Getting out of her kennel or playing outside is a privilege she gets for going potty outside. Soon she will realize "Hm...I don't want to be stuck in this cage so I will potty outside so mommy will let me play!" 11 weeks old she probably should go out every hour or so. small bladder and control. Another thing, if she does potty inside, don't scold her. Pay her no mind, pick it up. If you catch her doing it in the act boldly say "no no!" or something that way she knows it's not a good thing then put her outside quickly. If she finishes outside, praise her. My puppy is 6 months old I think lol...he was given to me...but he pottied inside a lot and I finally bought a kennel and he's had 2 accidents in a month. He learns to yelp or scratch to let me know he's gotta go potty but mostly you'll just have to remember to take her till she gets old enough. And don't get upset if you leave her in her kennel and she potties cause she's little and can't hold it. But don't spank her...it doesn't work. And rubbing her nose in stuff doesn't either. That will confuse her. She goes potty inside then walks away and chews on her toy...you find the poop and pick her up and shove her nose in it. She doesn't remember pooping. What she does remember is she was chewing on her toy and you picked her up and shoved her nose is something stinky so now she thinks she's not supposed to chew on that toy.

    44. QUESTION:
      How can i ask my parents for a puppy for my birthday which is this sunday?
      I really want to get a puppy for my birthday which is this sunday. I have wanted a new puppy since Katie my golden retriever died earlier this year.

      • ANSWER:
        Sorry about your golden doggie passing away... Before you speak with your parents, have you thought out how you will take care of a puppy? THEY ARE SOOOO MUCH WORK! My puppy would cry and keep me up all night for weeks. I had to move his cage to the living room and sleep on the couch for weeks as I changed his schedule from sleeping all day to sleeping all night. Have you considered adopting an adult dog from the local rescue/ pound?

        The best way to convince your parents is to show them how adopting a dog will benefit them. 1- You will learn responsibility 2- You will earn the right to keep it by doing well in school 3- You will earn the money to meet the dog's needs by doing extra chores around your house etc. 4- The dog will help keep your family safe by alerting you when someone approaches your home 5-The dog will help you and your family stay healthy because you will have to walk him at least two times per day. Good luck!!

    45. QUESTION:
      How do I transfer my puppy from my bed to crate?
      HELP! I've had my puppy for almost a week and we've been letting him sleep with us in our bed. But the more I read and advice from my friends, they say I need to crate train him. He's 11 weeks old. I'm afraid once I start crate training him that he'll think we're permanently punishing him and he'll be different with me and my husband. Is it possible to cross him over to this? Any words of wisdom?

      • ANSWER:
        Well, my dog loves her crate. As soon as you say "Bedtime!" she'll go running to her cage and sit their until you shut the door. She'll go in there on her own as well.

        The first thing you have to know about crate training is NEVER put him in his crate for punishment. The crate is suppose to be a happy thing so that he will want to go in there. If you make the cage a good thing, it will be a good thing for your dog. If you make it a bad thing, your dog will be guaranteed to not go in it.

        It's only been a week of sleeping on your bed so it won't be hard to break the habit. However, this means that your dog doesn't go on your bed unless you give him permission (which I don't suggest doing until he knows his "place" in his crate).

        When you bring your crate home start by putting it right beside your bed so he'll know your close by. When you bring it home put a couple of treats in it or his favorite toy so he will be tempted to go in it. When he goes into it to investigate give him lots of positive attention so he knows when he goes in it, you're happy for him and continue to praise him whenever you see him in it. Put his food bowl and water bowl in the cage so he has to go in to get a drink or food. Don't put him in it, make it his decision.

        Later on that day when you see him in it shut the door and give him a treat through the door/side (depending on what type of crate you have) and tell him he's a good boy then open the door so he can come out. Do this a few times a day. When it gets to around the fourth time (without doing it every couple of minutes) put him in his cage and walk outside or go to the grocery store for a few minutes. If you hear him crying (which he may do) ignore him. He is just doing this to get what he wants and it will make crate training A LOT harder if you give in. Once a few minutes goes by, come back in and open the cage door and tell him what a good boy he was.

        When it comes to bedtime your dog might try to jump up into your bed, but when he does this say "Go to Max's bed!" Take his toy/treat/blanket and put it in the cage so he will go in there. When he close the door, give him a treat and go to bed. He may cry or whine but, again, you have to leave him, even if he does it for a long time. He will try to get you to let him out because it is a new thing but sooner or later (if you do this for at least a few days to a few weeks, depending on the temperment of the dog) he will love his crate.

        Hope this helps and good luck!

    46. QUESTION:
      How do I get my puppy to not yelp in her crate in the middle of the night?
      Ok, I just got a new puppy, about 8 weeks old, and it is already driving me nuts about having to wake up ever 2 hours starting at around 3 am or so. Also when I put her in there before we go to bed she starts yelping right away and doesn't seem to stop. Any suggestions on getting her to sleep all night without crying, or when we put her in there before bed ?

      Thanks,
      Stan

      • ANSWER:
        my dog was doing the same thing she wouldnt stop crying no matter what we did but we learned that if you leave them in ther for a whole week but do take them out to use the bathroom and run and give them food and water in there they will soon learn and stop but while they r in the house make sure she is in the cage for at least a week and when you take her out give about 30min to run and play she will soon stop

    47. QUESTION:
      How to stop a puppy from peeing in cage?
      best way to house train puppy
      I have an 11 week old rotti and he is pretty much house trained ( has peed once in 2 weeks on floor), but he pees in his cage during the day and at night. What is the best way to stop this?
      I have an 11 week old rotti and he is pretty much house trained ( has peed once in 2 weeks on floor), but he pees in his cage during the day and at night. What is the best way to stop this? He is in the cage during the day when no one is home.

      • ANSWER:
        The best way to stop a puppy from peeing in it's cage is by taking it out more often. Puppies can only hold their urine for a very short amount of time. The bladders are not fully developed yet. Depending on the age of your puppy, you may need to take him/her out or put him on the paper once every hour.

        When the puppy drinks water, figure maybe 15 minutes later, it will have to pee.

        So basically, it's on you. So if your pup is making mistakes, it's your fault for not getting your pup out soon enough, it's not the pups fault.

    48. QUESTION:
      How do I get my puppy to stop eating his own poo?
      My 9 month old pup eats his own poo when he turds in his cage. I think its because he knows he's done something wrong. How can I get him to stop munching on his steamers?

      • ANSWER:
        Well, it doesn't matter why he's doing it. The point is that he's pooping in his crate because you're not giving him adequate opportunities to relieve himself. OR, he's learned that it's OK to poop in his crate, which will greatly undermine the crate training process (it all relies on a dog's instinct to keep his den clean)!

        So, make sure yo keep your pup on a strict schedule that involves walks outside after meals, after naptime, after play, after a night's sleep. Dogs, especially puppies, will often eat their own poop. Usually it's not harmful, but obviously not a good habit to get into. Remove his poop as soon as you see it, but you didn't say that he eats his poop even outside his crate. So, just concentrate on getting him to NOT poop in the crate!

        Outside his crate, just minimize his incidents with poop. Pick up his stuff as soon as he eliminates; steer him away from other dogs' poop. Teach him to "leave it" for things he's not supposed to have, and reward him with another treat.

        Good luck!


    puppy cage

    Dog Crates Reviews

    If you are in the marketplace for buying a dog, why not think of adopting a pet from your local shelter or rescue? Adopting a dog and providing him with a loving home also blesses you with a lifelong buddy and the experience that you have helped to save an animal's life. If you are open to the suggestion, visit your local animal rescue center or local shelter armed with a few queries before making your decision. Before even looking at the pups and dogs up for adoption, make sure that the shelter has a licensed veterinarian on its staff. This will specify that all the dogs are under medical care and have been vaccinated and checked for disease. Some people may voluntarily adopt a pet which has been injured. In such cases, find out all the facts about the injury, the extent of medical treatment required and the cost of future treatment if the need arises.

    Shelters also classify dogs up for adoption on the basis of their nature. Professional caretakers can identify characteristics and personality types in dogs and can help you when choosing the best pet for your home and family. The shelter staff should be able to advise you on whether the dog in question can be trusted with children or how he respond to other dogs or people. Choosing the right dog for your standard of living and family set-up is very important. For example, if you live alone in a small apartment, you definitely do not need a large boisterous dog, which needs people and activity around him at all times. On the other hand, if you have children and a large patch, such a dog may be the best match for you. When adopting, keep in mind the dog's size, his friendliness, the exercise routine he requires, and his assertiveness. Speak to the shelter staff for information on various breeds to find the pet with the characters you are looking for.

    Most shelters have both mixed breeds and purebreds up for adoption. Keep in mind that adopting a purebred puppy will give you a good idea of how he will behave and how big he will grow as most conform to a particular 'breed standard'. Adopting a mixed breed may be a bit of wild card as predicting their physical personality traits is not always possible. That said, a mixed breed is likely to be stronger and healthier than certain purebred dogs as they are generally free of genetic defects.

    When deciding a shelter dog, remember that his true colors may not be evident until he is away from the chaos of the place and the other animals. Dogs feel shy and scared so spend time with each animal before making your selection. Adopting a puppy is ideal if you are willing to spend time in training him and fixing his behavior. If you lack the patience to do this, an adult dog may be better suited for you. Once you have chosen your new friend, the next step is keeping him safe and secure. Shelter dogs may have been found off the streets and could have a tendency to run off and get lost. To avoid this from happening, spend in a dog GPS locator. GPS canine tracking devise such as the SpotLight GPS pet locator will offer you with 24/7 tracking of your pet's location using the latest GPS technology. This gadget is small and easily attaches to your pet's collar, and it will notify you of your pet's whereabouts at all times. You can track him 24/7 online or with your mobile phone, and you can also receive text and email alerts if he walks away. To find out more about the SpotLight and GPS tracking for dogs, check out http://www.spotlightgps.com

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1. QUESTION:
      Why do some people still believe that crating a dog (especially a puppy) for 8 hours is ok?
      There's no way on earth I or anyone I know can go 8 hours without having to potty. (I know dogs are different, but not THAT different)! It has been proven that dogs crated for this long grow to have kidney and bladder problems as they age. Actually this is really a question still! Anyone feel differently?

      • ANSWER:
        Well I believe in crating a dog but for not for 8 hours although my adult dog can stay in the house for 12 hours before even asking to go out many times, I know puppies are way different and I wouldn't recommend leaving a dog in a crate that long. I plan to get a puppy in the future and the plan is that I work about 4-5 hours a day but my husband works a different shift so during that time I will set an alarm for him to get up and take the puppy out once then I will do the same when I am sleeping and we will both have at least 8 hours to play with the dog together and another hour or two for each of us separately. When it gets closer to that time we will review and set up a schedule so the dog never has to be in the crate for more than 4 hours to begin with. If I don't have a job yet it will be even less time in the crate.

    2. QUESTION:
      How to stop my dog from eating the window?
      We have a shelter dog that was never crate trained. The people who were fostering the dog warned us that we might not be able to do it because dog to won't associate the crate with a safe place. If he is in the crate, he either causes damage to himself or breaks the crate to get out.

      In the past two weeks, the dog has started eating one of our windows when we leave. The curtains and screen are shredded, the curtain rod is broken, the sill has splintered in two, the left window trim was torn off the wall, and the handle is barely hanging on. He could get splinters in his stomach or something!

      We've tried sedating him, but he throws the pill up. It doesn't matter how we feed it to him. He'll swallow the pill about 30 minutes before we leave, and when we come home the window has new damage and the pill is floating in a puddle of bile on the floor.

      What can I do?
      He's about four years old, and is fixed. He is a very lazy dog, and barely bats an eyelash when we leave. When we come home, he just wanders up to us, wags his tail, and turns around. And sometimes he doesn't even bother greeting us. I'm not sure if this is separation anxiety or not.
      He has a kong; it doesn't interest him, even if food is in it. He isn't alone during the day; we have another dog (that can't even reach the window, so I know which one is causing the damage). Out of that list of ways to tell if your dog has separation anxiety, the only item that fits is that the behavior only happens when we're gone.

      • ANSWER:
        Everyone is giving you advice for chewing problems. This is Separation Anxiety....NOT a simple chewing problem.

        I've been there...it's not fun having your house destroyed! This is a panic response to your leaving. S.A. is very difficult to treat and takes a LOT of patience and time. Rather than sedation, I would ask your vet for an anti-anxiety pill...doesn't sedate, but helps controls the anxiety - that panic feeling.

        You may also want to try a DAP collar or scent emitter. This releases calming phermones into the air for him to smell and is supposed to calm him down. They're spendy, but some say they're worth it. Others say it's a waste of money. I suppose it depends on the dog. The fosters in our group use it with mixed reviews.

        Then, I would find a temporary solution...have grandma stay with him while you're gone, bring him with you if you can, doggie daycare, etc... You can use this to help keep your house and dog safe while you're starting your treatment training program with him. (SEE LINKS below for the specifics on the treatment methods)

        Ideally, he would get a bunch of exercise before you leave for the day to get out some pent-up energy...like a long, brisk walk. That will increase your chances of success, though I know realistically, I don't even have time for breakfast before I zip-out the door in the mornings, and you may not be a morning person either.

        I'm putting some links to the exercises/treatment methods used to put a stop to the insanity of separation anxiety. The methods are too long to type here, but these sites should give you a good idea of what to do and give step-by-step instructions. We actually had a dog behaviorist come out, which, if you can afford it, I highly recommend (not a trainer - a behaviorist).

        Though it's true that many dogs need some time to get used to a crate, I've never fostered a dog with S.A. that didn't totally destroy the kennel and exhaust him/herself when put in it, so it's more than him not associating it with a "safe place". I would work on the S.A., and then try the crate training.

        The people that fostered him should have disclosed this problem to you because it is severe and one of the most difficult behavior problems to treat. If you're willing to work through it, or can change some things to make your lifestyle fit, then great!
        Your three best options are:
        1 -work through it...it could take months of long daily training sessions that may or may not be successful,
        2 - change your lifestyle so that someone is always home with him or send him to doggie daycare during the day,
        3 - return him to the rescue group where you adopted him.

        In response: That's what our foster dog did....he was totally cool all the time....didn't seem upset when we left or anything...that's why I was totally shocked when I came home one day and he had tried to eat his way through the front door!

        SEE THE LINKS BELOW FOR THE SPECIFIC METHODS

    3. QUESTION:
      What are the reviews on different dog boxes for a truck?
      I have a regular cab truck and train dogs. I was looking at dog kennels and covering it with a tarp vs these dog boxes. What are the pros and cons of these dog boxes?

      • ANSWER:
        If you are not going to get a real vehicle to transport dogs safely in-such as a van, I suggest that you purchase a camper shell for your truck AND install a sliding rear window in your cab (if you do not have one-but who doesn't) so that the animals can get heat and air.

        Crates in the back and a tarp? No responsible dog owner would let you transport their dogs like that.

    4. QUESTION:
      What makes you appreciate your dog groomer?
      Does he/she provide a service to your pet that sets them apart from other groomers in your area? I'm interested in learning dog grooming and am training with a groomer now. Down the road I would like to have my own business and am thinking of marketing strategies, services, etc. Would appreciate knowing why you chose the groomer you did. Thank you.

      • ANSWER:
        Not all dog groomers are the same. I'm still looking for a good one. Just picked up my dog from the groomer today (his first time). I needed to take him because he needed to be bathed and I couldn't do it myself this time.

        So after I got him home he rushed towards his potty spot and didn't quite make it (diarhea).
        Then I got him inside and he drank water like he hadn't had a drink in days.

        I don't know what went on at the groomers, but my dog wasn't cared for properly during his time there (9:30 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.).

        When I asked to see their facilities, they wouldn't show me the whole area, and limited my view to the holding area with the kennels.
        Needless to say I worried about my dog the whole time. When it was finally time to pick him up, he looked great, smelled good, and was ecstatic to be going home.
        But the doubt still exists in my mind whether my boy was given water or a reasonable potty break all day long.

        I will be posting a review of this groomer in my local internet directory.

        What I would appreciate from a groomer so that I will give them repeat business, Would be a full tour of their facility. I want to know that the kennel or the holding crate will be sanitized before my dog is placed inside.
        I want to know that my dog will be given water and proper time to do his business during the course of the day.

        Even if I asked for refferences, how could I be sure that the those other customers knew or were shown anything more than the breif glimpse that I was allowed. Sure they'll give a good reference if their dog looks great..and smells nice.. but what about the rest?.
        Yes the ears and bath and nails etc, etc.... But I was so concerned about the esthetics, that I never stopped to think about my dog's comfort and physical well being. Well ..live and learn as they say.

    5. QUESTION:
      What are some good tips for first time dog owners?
      im soon going to own a dog... a small dog. what are some good tips on taking care of a dog?

      • ANSWER:
        Make sure you have the money to properly care for a dog.
        Vet expenses are 0. - 00. the first year.
        Pups should remain it the litter until 12 weeks old to learn social skills such as bite inhibition.
        Patience and lots of love.
        Praise and reward.
        Google positive reinforcement training
        House train. Crate train.
        Do not hit. Do not rub the dog's nose in it.
        Do not let the pup do anything you do not want it to do as an adult.
        Pups have lots of energy. Pups must be walked and exercised every day.
        Feed raw or home cooked.
        If feeding kibble go to http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/
        Select a premium 5 or 6 star food.
        Enroll in an obedience class.
        Love your pup with all your heart.

    6. QUESTION:
      how to introducing a energetic dog to two old cats?
      we are getting a jack russel but she is very bouncy and energetic , she goes at other dogs and the two old cats i already have hate other cats ,whats the best way to introduce them without tearing each other apart and make them learn to get along?

      • ANSWER:
        The first step in the process of acclimating a dog to your cat is to provide controlled safe exposure. The dog must either be in a dog crate or on a leash in the house 100% for a long long time. At the least this period will be weeks but many times it can be months. There is no hurry. Those who rush the process are those owners who end up with problems.

        I recommend the use of a dog crates. The use of a dog crate is the safest way to make sure you can control the environment. It allows you to focus on the cats while the dog is in the room.

        In the beginning cats are put in a separate room before the dog is brought into the house. I always put my new dogs on leash when I bring them into the house. This shows them that coming into the house is a controlled experience and not someplace where the dog can charge around and act crazy.

        In other words I ALWAYS control the animals and the environment I allow the animals to be in. That's how accidents are avoided. I don't leave things to chance. By having the dog on leash I have control of him if the cat runs and he tries to chase.

        People often ask "When can the dog be off leash?" The answer is simple - when you can control the dog under distraction. If you can't call your dog to you when it is highly distracted by your cat - then the dog is not under your control and it should either be on leash, in a dog crate or wearing a remote collar.

        This test can be made by made by putting the cat in the dog crate before the dog is brought into the house. The dog should be on leash. The owner can drop the leash and let the dog drags it. If the dog then gets out of control and won't mind the handler can simply grab the leash and take the dog back outside outside.

        A family Kitty investigating the new smells of the new pack member

        The decision to correct or not correct the dog or how hard to correct the dog depends on if you are training the dog or just testing the dog. I wrote a free ebook titled "THE THEORY OF CORRECTIONS IN DOG TRAINING" You may want to review that material.

        In The Crate

        Once in the crate the dog is expected to be calm and quiet. If the dog barks at the cats they are verbally scolded. If they will not stop barking we either cover the crate with a sheet, spray lemon water in the dogs face or make them wear a No-Bark collar. We normally don't use bark collars on puppies until they are 16 weeks old.

        The dog is never allowed to be in the house and out of the crate unless it's on leash. It's never taken out of the crate (on leash) when the cat is in the room until it has gone ONE WEEK without barking at the cats.

        This does not mean the dogs are locked in dog crates for weeks at a time. They can have free (on leash) time in the house but in the beginning the cats are always put in a different room when the dog is out.

        When I get a new adult dog my first priority is to establish pack structure. I normally wait several weeks before I allow the dog to have on leash house time. This program is covered in detail in my dvd ESTABLISHING PACK STRUCTURE WITH THE FAMILY DOG If you are a new dog owner I highly recommend that you get this dvd and run your dog through this program.

        Cat owners who acquire dogs have two processes going on at the same time. They should be establishing pack structure with the new dog at the same time they are teaching the dog that their cats are now part of the dogs family pack. When owners take their time there are seldom problems.
        During the period of time that an adult dog spends in the crate, he can be acclimated to a muzzle. I like the wire basket muzzles we sell because they are less restrictive to the dog. Dogs accept these muzzles quicker than the plastic muzzles we sell. The down side is they are a little more expensive.

        For those people who do not want to spend the money on a wire muzzle the plastic Jafco muzzles are inexpensive and work just fine. It is important to learn to put them on properly. When done incorrectly the dog could possibly get them off. We always us marker training to put muzzles on (refer to my ebook on marker training if you have questions on this)

        Getting the dog used to the muzzle during these first weeks gives the dog something else to think about other than the cats in the house. After weeks of wearing it in the crate it becomes second nature for the dog to have it on. When the day comes to allow the dog to be loose in the rooms with the cats it is important to do this while the dog is on leash. If that goes well then have the dog in a muzzle.

        Should the adult dog shows the slightest sign of aggression towards the cats it needs to get a correction. The severity of the correction will vary by the temperament of the dog. Some dogs simply need to be told NO !! - while other dogs require a level 10 prong collar correction.

        The correction needs to be strong enough that the dog will remember it the next time it thinks about being aggressive to

    7. QUESTION:
      What should I do to get ready for a new dog/puppy?
      My family is adopting a dog this summer- possibly a young puppy (like around 8 weeks old). What should I do to get ready?

      • ANSWER:
        Congrats on your decision of introducing a dog in your life!

        I would first buy a small puppy collar and tags for him. Also a small leash for the puppy stages.
        Puppy pads will help you with potty training.
        Also buy some soft chews for him and toys to distract him from chewing up your home and to teach him on what he is allowed to chew.

        I would also start searching for a good vet in the area, as it is extremely difficult to find a good, competent vet that you can trust. You can ask the vet for guidelines to what puppyhood implies, I for one got my first info from our vet.

        I would also buy puppy food, but only after some research about dog foods:
        http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/
        http://www.dogfoodproject.com/

        Another thing is puppy-proofing your home - that is, removing all the object that could be swallowed or chewed by your dog, anything that he can destroy. Sanitizing your home would also help for bringing a new pup, as he won't be done with his vaccines and you want to avoid weakening his immune system.

        I would also recommend buying a crate - it works wonders with potty training and are very useful when you can't supervise the puppy or during night time. Usually, puppies won't potty in the crate, so this is why it's useful. And also, to contain the dog while people are going in or out or while you are cleaning etc.

        You should also start looking into training your pup, which has to start the moment he is in the house. Training in the sense of establishing good manners and habits inside the house.
        http://k9deb.com/nilif.htm
        The NILIF programme is awesome in establishing yourself as a leader and setting up good behaviours.

        Good luck!
        Having a puppy is a difficult experience, especially housebreaking, but don't despair, the first two months will be really nasty. But afterwards you won't regret getting a puppy.

    8. QUESTION:
      What helps separation anxiety in a dog?
      My dog is about 6 months old now. When he sleeps with us at night he's fine and doesn't chew up anything or get into anything he shouldn't. Im trying to ween him off the cage so we puppy proofed the room by cleaning it completely and putting everything high up so he cant get to it. But when we leave he destroys anything he can find and manages to climb up onto the dresser to get stuff down. Even if I give him a toy or a bone it doesn't help. The only thing I can think of is that he has separation anxiety. So what can I do to stop him from getting into everything? Otherwise Im going to have to stick to the cage.

      • ANSWER:
        No, this isn't separation anxiety, it is simply a puppy that hasn't been taught to leave things alone.
        Use the crate (cage) when you aren't around to watch him and also teach him a "leave it" command ;
        http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/leave-it.html

    9. QUESTION:
      What supplies do I need to buy for a new puppy?
      I have never had a dog before, but we are planning to buy one. Can anyone provide a list of items we need to buy before introducing the puppy to our house? We have no idea, other than food, what other things we should buy.

      • ANSWER:
        - food & water bowls

        - flat collar & leash (I recommend Lupine, they are guaranteed even if chewed: http://lupinepet.com/ )
        -- id tag in case your pet gets lost

        - grooming supplies, which vary based on your breed
        -- dog shampoo
        -- dog toothbrush
        -- dog toothpaste
        -- toenail clippers
        -- bristle brush or slicker brush
        -- comb (optional)

        - toys
        -- kong - http://www.kongcompany.com/
        -- a squeaker toy
        -- a chew toy
        -- a cuddle toy
        -- a tug toy

        - treats

        - crate

        - bed

        - pet stain cleaner for accidents in the house during housebreaking

        - bitter apple spray to deter chewing (note: only about 50% of dogs actually respond to bitter apple spray. many of them actually LIKE the taste of it. in that case, use pepper instead.)

        - quality pet food (see below)

        ======================

        On choosing a dog food:
        Read the ingredients on the food you buy. Go with a high quality dog food. (Or in your case, the puppy food counterpart of the brand you choose). A grain should not be in the first couple ingredients ingredient (corn and such are mainly fillers, dogs don't digest it well). Avoid foods that have a lot of "by products" listed.

        Here is an article about byproducts:
        http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=ingrd

        And an article on what ingredients to avoid:
        http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=badingredients

        ---

        Some GOOD foods are :
        * Merrick - http://www.merrickpetcare.com/
        * Solid Gold - http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/
        * Canidae - http://www.canidae.com/
        * Timberwolf - http://timberwolforganics.com/
        * Orijen - http://www.championpetfoods.com/orijen/orijen/
        * Wellness - http://www.omhpet.com/wellness/
        * Chicken Soup brand - http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssoul.com/
        * Innova - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/innova.asp
        * Innova EVO - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/evo.asp

        Or check this website for good foods: http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/
        (I recommend only feeding foods rated 4, 5, or 6 stars. Anything 3 stars or less, I would stay away from.)

        ---

        Stay away from grocery stores brands. They are low-quality foods chalk full of fillers, preservatives, dyes, etc.. (Grocery store foods are those like Beneful, Old Roy, Alpo, Pedigree, Purina, etc.)

        Beware "premium" foods. "Premium" does not mean good nutritionally, and is not a nutritionally high quality food. It has the same types of ingredients as grocery store foods, just a bit better quality of those not-so-good ingredients. (Premium foods are those like Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, etc..)

        Another thing to be wary of: A lot of vets will recommend what they sell in their office. They get profit from the brands they keep on their shelves, that's why they push it. Truth is, vet schools don't focus a lot on nutrition. It's not saying that a vet is a bad vet because he recommends those foods, a lot of vets just are told "this is good food", so they pass the message along without proper nutrition knowledge. Also, some dog food brands (like Hills) support vet schools, so vets have heard of it from the time they start college, which makes them think it's good as well.

        ---

        When switching foods, do it gradually. I do this over about a two week timespan:
        25% food A, 75% food B
        50% food A, 50% food B
        75% food A, 25% food B
        100% food A

    10. QUESTION:
      What is a good way to house train a English Bulldog?
      He is 3months old . What type of dog food is best for this breed? Have done much research on this and I am not new to the breed? Just curious on what type of ideas, suggestions and/or experience the folks on Yahoo! Answers might have. Thanks !

      • ANSWER:
        Use a crate for potty training. Diet- Since bulldogs tend to be gassy and have sensitive systems you will want to feed a very high quality diet. They are also prone to allergies and skin troubles. Focus on health starting from the inside out. What does your breeder feed? Here is a website to check out what actual quality foods are...
        http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/index.php
        To search actual brands hit the word "search" next to the word "home" I've had better luck doing searches.

    11. QUESTION:
      What can I expect from the Petsmart Dog Training Program?
      I have a 51/2 month old Goldendoodle pup that is VERY intelligent and knows all the basic commands of sit, come, stay and bedtime (goes to her crate) and rings a bell to go potty outside!
      I feel like she may be to advanced for the Petsmart puppy training. Can anyone explain what she may possibly learn that she hasn't already by attending? I'd hate to spend money on training that is already being incorporated into her daily life.

      • ANSWER:
        We did the puppy class then the advanced class, but I'll just talk about the advanced class.

        The best thing my dog learned at Petsmart was to be around other dogs and stay under control. In the advanced class we did a lot of coming with distractions (let dog loose, called the dog to come, but he had to pass other dogs or come with another dog next to him). We also worked on scary situations - staying calm around handicapped equipment, tunnels, etc.

        But overall, the best part was he got used to other dogs. Of course, you need to keep this up, but it's so nice taking my dog for a walk and him not pulling or jumping to get to other dogs and people we pass.

        The advanced class does a few more advanced commands too - roll over, leave it, take it, etc. You'll also review the other stuff.

        I was very happy with the class, and it gave me a a basis for what to work on at home. It's nothing too advanced, but I have an awesome, 3 year old dog now and people always comment how well trained he is.

    12. QUESTION:
      What kind of food should we give a cockapoo? and where to get dog stuff?
      Hi, it's 2 months old. I was just wondering what to feed it. Thanks. Also if you know of any places to get things for a new puppy (beds, toys, crate, etc.) I'D APPRECIATE IT!

      • ANSWER:
        GENERAL SUPPLIES:

        For general supplies, any petstore, department store (like Walmart), or farm supply store carries bowls, beds, etc..

        If you want fancy/trendy stuff, dog boutiques are an option as well, but usually tend to cost a lot more.

        === === ===

        FOOD:

        There is no food that is the *best*, different individual dog may thrive on different foods. What is best for one may not be the best for the next. And just because a food is good quality, it doesn't mean it will jive the best for your dog.

        What you want to find is the high-quality food that *your dog* does best on.

        You can either get a 'puppy' food, or you an get an 'all-life-stages' food. All-life-stages foods are formulated to work for both puppies and adults (you feed different amounts depending on the age and activity level of your dog), so you don't have to worry about when to switch from puppy to adult food. Either option (puppy or all-life-stages) is fine.

        ---

        Read the ingredients on the food you buy. Go with a high quality dog food.

        Here is my "short list" of rules when I am looking at dog ingredients:
        1) When I chose a dog food, I chose one high meat content. I want to see preferably at least 2-3 out of the top 5 ingredients be meat or meat meal (first ingredient must be!).
        2) I want to see higher quality grains, such as barley, brown rice, and oatmeal, instead of seeing wheat and corn. Or an alternative starch/carbohydrate such as potatoes or sweet potatoes.
        3) I don't want to see any byproducts.
        4) I don't want to see a lot of fillers.
        5) I don't want to see preservatives that are believed to be carcinogens (BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin).
        6) I don't want to see artificial colorings such as the Red, Blue, and Yellow dyes.
        7) I don't want to see added sugars (sugar, corn syrup).
        8) I don't want to see mystery meats (meats identified only as "meat" or "poultry".)

        Here is an article about byproducts:
        http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=ingrd

        And an article on what ingredients to avoid:
        http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=badingredients

        ---

        Here are some examples of high quality foods:
        * Artemis - http://www.artemiscompany.com/
        * California Natural - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/california-natural.asp
        * Canidae - http://www.canidae.com/
        * Chicken Soup - http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssoul.com/
        * EVO - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/evo.asp
        * Fromm - http://www.frommfamily.com/
        * Innova - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/innova.asp
        * Merrick - http://www.merrickpetcare.com/
        * Nature's Variety - http://www.naturesvariety.com/
        * Orijen - http://www.championpetfoods.com/orijen/products/
        * Solid Gold - http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/
        * Taste of the Wild - http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com/
        * Timberwolf Organics - http://timberwolforganics.com/
        * Wellness - http://www.omhpet.com/wellness/

        Or check this website for good foods: http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/
        (I recommend only feeding foods rated 4, 5, or 6 stars. Anything 3 stars or less, I would stay away from.)

        ---

        Stay away from grocery stores brands. They are low-quality foods chalk full of fillers, preservatives, dyes, etc.. (Grocery store foods are those like Beneful, Old Roy, Alpo, Pedigree, etc.)

        Beware "premium" foods. "Premium" does not always mean good nutritionally, and is not a nutritionally high quality food. Most of these foods have the same types of ingredients as grocery store foods, just a bit better quality of those not-so-good ingredients. (Premium foods are those like Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, etc..)

        Another thing to be wary of: A lot of vets will recommend what they sell in their office. They get profit from the brands they keep on their shelves, that's why they push it. Truth is, vet schools don't focus a lot on nutrition. It's not saying that a vet is a bad vet because he recommends those foods, a lot of vets just are told "this is good food", so they pass the message along without proper nutrition knowledge. Also, some dog food brands (like Hills) support vet schools, so vets have heard of it from the time they start college, which makes them think it's good as well.

        Hills company, the makers of Science Diet, are heavily involved in vet schools. "Hill's scientists author more than 50 research papers and textbook chapters each year and teach at leading schools of veterinary medicine" (Source of quoted section: http://www.hillsvet.com/zSkin_2/company_info/company_info_general.jsp?JSESSIONID=HMz2B3Jn3hv0rnSoxCobfbBhOec35ODG7yh5t3P0vcvhOtzRlQ9M!598359213!167846923!7005!8005&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302026072&bmUID=1196192566575 )

        ---

        Higher quality food may seem more expensive at first, but it evens out. The higher quality the food, the less fillers eaten (and therefore the less poop comes out the other end). Your dog eats more to try to get the nutrition it needs, and most of the food just passes right on through. Also, it will make your animals healthier, so you save money on vet bills in the long run.

        ---

        "Big box" petstores like Petco and Petsmart rarely have quality foods. (I do believe that PetCo sells "Solid Gold" and "Natural Balance" brands and Petsmart sells "Blue Buffallo", which are all quality foods, but most of the foods aren't.)

        Also, grocery stores and Walmart aren't good places to buy food either.

        Your best bets for getting quality dog food are:
        - small, locally owned petstores
        - dog boutiques
        - farm supply stores

        ---

        When switching foods, do it gradually. I do this over about a two week timespan:
        25% food A, 75% food B
        50% food A, 50% food B
        75% food A, 25% food B
        100% food A
        .

    13. QUESTION:
      How can I housebreak my mini manchester and get her to stop tearing stuff up?
      2 yrs old, female, spayed, was a stray before I got her but was fostered in a home. I have 3 other dogs and the tearing stuff up got worse after i got my chihuahua.

      • ANSWER:
        Sounds like you may have a leader of the pack issue going on there in the house. You need to be the pack leader.

        http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/

        This site has most of the usual tips and I recommend them:

        http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/stop-dog-chewing.html

        Every dog owner will be required to stop dog chewing problems at some stage.

        When our puppies and dogs chew it is a perfectly natural behavior, just very annoying (and expensive!) for us dog owners.

        Dogs chew just about anything they can wrap their mouths around. My dog's favorite chewing objects are socks, shoes, furniture and my whippet actually chewed a large whole in the side of our house!

        What Causes Dogs To Chew?

        * Through loneliness or boredom.

        * Separation anxiety, often occurs if you work long hours away from home.

        * When they are teething (this can be a very trying time for owners).

        * Through fear or a phobia.

        * Seeking attention.

        * Through anticipation, some dogs chew just before their owner is due to arrive home.

        It's important that we stop our dogs chewing not only because it frustrates us, but also because it can be very dangerous for our dogs. If your dog chews into electric wires, poisons and any number of other objects they could be in serious danger.

        How To Stop Dog Chewing Problems

        Always keep in mind that your dog can't tell the difference between a 0 pair of shoe's and a worthless old rag. And your dog is not chewing to spite you, dogs don't think like us humans.

        1. Give your dog lots of exercise, both physical and mental (games, obedience training).

        2. Provide your dog with a few tasty dog chews. Don't overload your dog with dozens of chew toys, just a couple of good one's. Make it clear to your dog that if he wants to chew, it must be on his toys.

        3. The best way to stop dog chewing is to catch it before it becomes a habit. This requires you to not leave your dog in a situation where he can chew something that you don't want him to. If your dog chews when you are away from home, keep your dog in a crate or kennel run. Once your dog is old enough and can be trusted, you can give him a free run of the place.

        4. If your dog has a particular liking for a certain object like a furniture leg you can try this method. Coat the object with a foul tasting substance (non toxic) such as bitter apple, cayenne pepper or tabasco sauce. This method can be effective but because it doesn't actually teach your dog to stop chewing, it may mean that your dog just chews on a different object. Of course, if you put some tasty treats in the area, the chewing behavior will hopefully shift straight over to these.

        5. If you catch your dog in the act of chewing, give a firm "No!" and replace the inappropriate chewing object with a tasty chew toy. Give your dog praise when he starts chewing the toy. Never ever reprimand your dog if you don't actually catch him in the act of chewing. If you don't issue your correction within about two seconds of his chewing behavior, he won't have a clue what you are disciplining him for.

        6. A good solution to stop dog chewing and any other behavioral problem is to apply some obedience training. This establishes you as the pack leader in your owner-dog relationship. It will also help to build a strong bond with your dog, based on trust and respect. To learn how to properly obedience train your dog at home visit SitstayFetch Chewing Problems.

        In order to control your dog's annoying chewing habit all you need to do is consistently follow the above training methods. Add a touch of common sense and patience and you will be well on your way to stopping your dogs chewing problem.

    14. QUESTION:
      What do you do if your dog is tearing everything up if you leave her alone for even 5 mins? Even her crate?
      I rescued her from a lady that kept her on a 4 foot chain for 8 months. Since I have gotten her, she has tore up everything. I have had her for about 6 months now. We live in the country and I know that she like running around the property, but if I let her outside and even come inside for 2 mins, she tears up the screen in the breezeway to get back inside. I have finally cut out an opening so she would stop that, but then everything that she can find she still tears up. When she is in her crate, if I leave the room for 5 mins, she will tear out of her wire crate. I cannot leave the house anymore, because the only option is to tie her up when I leave, and given her history, I don't want to do that. If she is in the house with just me, she does ok, but will not leave my side, but when my children are in the house, I have to crate her, because she jumps all over them. We have worked on sit and lay down, and she knows those but the second she does, then it right back to the jumping. The vet gave her the equivalent of prozac and that only worked for 2 days. I walk her anywhere from 2-4 miles a day and play fetch with her out in the yard. I just don't know what to do anymore :(

      • ANSWER:
        You have a dog with serious separation anxiety and a big lack of training. Here is how to fix the separation;
        http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/separation-anxiety-in-dogs.html
        Here is how to stop the jumping;
        http://www.dogtrainingbasics.com/off.html
        All the destruction is due to the separation anxiety and once you fix that and the dog develops some confidence, then you can work on the tearing things apart problem. One thing at a time and with children to take care of, this is going to be very difficult for you. I never recommend taking on a dog with problems if you have young children as the dog needs constant supervision to overcome the problems and so do your children and one of them will suffer, probably the dog.

    15. QUESTION:
      How much does it cost to open a pet store? What would I need ?
      I was thinking about opening a pet shop.
      Not a normal one though, just a small one with mainly cats and dogs.
      And ALL rescue animals.
      Like pets that are about to be put down or ones that are not wanted.
      I would sort of work with the SPCA.
      Have mainly dogs in nice living conditions and a few small rescue animals.
      Also some basic pet supplies like the stuff you can get from the dollar store and charge like instead of
      Could it work?
      What would I need?

      • ANSWER:
        Don't open a pet store. Open a shelter. People who know about puppy mills and kitten mills will protest your store because they automatically know the dogs and cats there come from mills. Open a shelter and rescue dogs there. So, some basic supplies you need is food but get these dog food brands:

        http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/showcat.php/cat/8

        http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/showcat.php/cat/11

        And these cat food brands:

        http://www.consumersearch.com/cat-food

        Also get:

        Leashes
        Litter box
        Treats
        Beds and Blankets
        Training Books
        Crates
        Bowls
        Anti-Flea and Tick Spray
        Brushes
        Tags
        Toys
        Scratch Posts and climbers

    16. QUESTION:
      what are the pros and cons of owning a papillon?
      my family and i are thinking about owning a dog, and the papillon seems like our best bet. what are the pros and cons of owning one?

      • ANSWER:
        http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/reviews/papillons.html:

        Papillons
        What's good about 'em
        What's bad about 'em

        There are energetic Papillons, and placid Papillons.
        Hard-headed Papillons, and sweet-natured Papillons.
        Serious Papillons, and good-natured goofballs.
        Introverted Papillons, and Papillons who love everyone.

        If you acquire a Papillon puppy, you can't know for sure what he or she will grow up to be like. Because a good number of purebred puppies do NOT grow up to conform to the "norm."

        Now let's look at some common characteristics for this breed...

        If you want a dog who...

        Is small, easy to carry, and doesn't take up much space
        Is fine-boned and elegant, light-footed and graceful
        Has a lovely feathered coat
        Is lively and playful
        Is one of the brightest and most trainable of the toy breeds
        Is polite with strangers
        A Papillon may be right for you.

        If you don't want to deal with...

        The fragility of toy breeds (see below)
        Excessive daintiness and timidity, suspiciousness, or highstrung temperaments in some lines, or when not socialized enough
        Chasing instincts (birds, mice, flying insects) from their spaniel heritage
        Regular brushing and combing
        Shedding
        Barking
        Housebreaking difficulties, especially in the cold and rain
        A Papillon may not be right for you.

        If I were considering a Papillon...

        My major concerns would be:

        Fragility. Too many people acquire a toy breed puppy without understanding how incredibly fragile a toy breed is. You can seriously injure or kill a Papillon by stepping on him or by sitting on him when he's curled under a blanket or pillow, where he frequently likes to sleep. And Papillons can seriously injure or kill THEMSELVES by leaping from your arms or off the back of your sofa. A larger dog can grab a Papillon and break his neck with one quick shake. Owning a toy breed means constant supervision and surveillance of what's going on around your tiny dog. Papillons must always be kept indoors, in a safely fenced yard, or on-leash -- they are just too easy to injure when not under your complete control.

        Papillons are NOT suited to children, no matter how well-meaning the child. Children cannot help being clumsy, and that a child meant well is little solace to a Papillon who has been accidentally stepped on, sat on, rolled on, squeezed, or dropped onto the patio. Most Papillons feel overwhelmed by the loud voices and quick movements that children can't help making -- and stress and fearfulness (even defensive biting) may be the result.

        Providing enough socialization. Papillons need extensive exposure to people and to unusual sights and sounds. Otherwise their natural caution can become shyness or suspiciousness, which are difficult to live with.

        Grooming. To keep their feathered coat free of mats, Papillons require regular brushing and combing, and occasional trimming.

        Shedding. Papillons shed quite a bit. Their hairs come off on your hands when you pet them, and stick to your clothing, upholstery, and carpeting. Be prepared for frequent vacuuming.

        Barking. Papillons are often too quick to sound the alarm at every new sight and sound. You have to be equally quick to stop them.

        To teach your Papillon to listen to you, "Respect Training" is mandatory. My Papillon Training Page discusses the program you need.

        Housebreaking. Toy breeds are almost always difficult to housebreak. It is so easy for them to sneak behind a chair or under a small table, and it takes only a few seconds for the deed to be done. The results can be hard to see. When you don't see it, you don't correct it -- and so the bad habit becomes established. If you hope to housebreak a toy breed, consistent crate training is mandatory. Papillons should not be loosed in the house for many months, until their small internal organs become strong enough for reliable control.

        If you're considering an adult Papillon...

        There are plenty of adult Papillons who have already proven themselves NOT to have negative characteristics. If you find such an adult, don't let "typical breed negatives" worry you.

        When you acquire a puppy, you're acquiring potential -- what he one day will be. So "typical breed characteristics" are very important. But when you acquire an adult, you're acquiring what he already IS.

    17. QUESTION:
      why does my dog still eat his poop?
      I have a 9 month old shih-tzu. He eats his poop. Whether it's in his crate, in the house when he has an accident, or outside in the backyard.
      I bought "distaste" powder and I put it on his food 2x a day.
      He STILL continues to eat his poop. I tried pineapple, but it made him sick & gave him very bad gas. We try to walk him as often as we can, but now that winter, snow and below zero weather is approaching, we'd prefer to put him in the backyard. BUT, when we do that, he comes back inside with his breath smelling like poop!

      Is there anything else I can put in his food that will stop him from eating his poop , that won't make him sick in the process?

      • ANSWER:
        Yeah my Shih-Tzu used to do the same thing - disgusting!

        Try one or more of these techniques - http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/stop-dogs-eating-dog-poop.html

        If this doesn't work she will grow out of it!

    18. QUESTION:
      what can i do about dog seperation anxiety?
      i have a great dane so i dont have the luxury of crate training her instead i had to resort to putting her in the basement when i leave or at night. i use to leave her in the living room untill the day i left for 20 minutes and everything was tore up. it's getting very old and im so tired of hearing her cry relentlessly just because i leave the room. i tried a mild sedative, and walking her an hour a day but nothing seems to work.

      • ANSWER:
        Elaine is right, there are tons of articles about seperation anxiety. Here is one:

        http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/separation-anxiety-in-dogs.html

    19. QUESTION:
      How to avoid dog-to-dog food aggression?
      I have a male American Pit Bull Terrier, he's roughly 10 months now. I'm planning to get a German Shepherd Dog puppy and nearly every GSD (both male and female) I've ever met have been very food aggressive with other animals, not just dogs, but not humans. My APBT is more than willing to share his food with anyone and everyone, I have zero worries about him.. just the new puppy developing it.

      • ANSWER:
        Do you have separate crates for the two dogs? Because then you can just feed them each in their own crate so they don't have to worry about the other dog taking their food. And if your new dog is food aggressive, there are techniques to fix that. Here's an article explaining some of them:
        http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/dog-food-aggression.html

    20. QUESTION:
      How should I choose a new vet? I am moving and need to make sure my dog is covered when I move.?
      I am moving to Tucson and need to find a vet for my dog. Thanks for your help. :)

      • ANSWER:
        For example:

        How do they handle off hours emergencies? If they refer you to an emergency clinic, then it's important that you like the clinic as well as you like your vet, because, face it...most emergencies happen at night and on weekends, or holidays.

        Do they make housecalls? This isn't as important with a small dog, but if you have a Great Dane, and your dog is too sick to walk or lift, transportation may be impossible, in which case your vet has to make house calls.

        How do they handle a request for a second opinion?

        This is a huge one for me...but I'd get it out there now, and that is what their approach is to end of life issues. Will they help you through that decision making process, or leave it totally up to the owner? Will they support your right to make the ultimate decisions on your pet's care?

        Now this may or may not be really important to you, but it's critical to me that the office smell good, and sound good. You'll likely hear some barking in the back, but if it's a nonstop soundtrack of distressed sounding animals, you might want to consider what impact that will have on both you and your dog, as you sit in the waiting room. I've been in a vet's office when it sounded like someone was torturing a cat in the next room. I realize that may have been unavoidable (just going into a crate may have caused it) but if it sounded that way ALL the time - I wouldn't be able to handle it, and neither would my little dog.

        Of course these are on top of the usual questions you may have. I think the suggestions on the DB to contact kennel club, and perhaps local breeders for your breed, are good. Dog groomers are also a great source of information, and if there is a doggie daycare, you might ask them for a referral, also (they probably have someone they use in emergencies).

        Lastly, you can read reviews of Tucson veterinarians here: http://www.tucsonveterinarian.com/

        I can't wait for you to get all settled in. You're going to LOVE Tucson.

    21. QUESTION:
      My puppy is kind of misbehaved has anyone got any training tips?
      My puppy is a springer cross and is 6 months he barks at everything, pulls on the lead and play bites, i was just wondering if anyone can help with training tips, i did buy a couple of puppy training books that we used when we first brought him but he has been really well behaved untill now, so the tips in the books are only for really young dogs. Do dogs normally get like this at 6 months?

      Thank you so much for any help!

      • ANSWER:
        There are so many theories and so much conflicting advice regarding the various ways to train our dogs - it's hard to know who to trust and what to believe.

        This is what I personally consider to be crucial, and always strive for when training my own dogs:

        To build a strong owner-dog relationship, based on trust and mutual respect.

        To have confidence in, and control of my dogs in any situation.

        Most importantly to have happy, outgoing dogs that are properly socialized.

        To work with my dogs natural drives and instincts.

        Absolutely no cruelty or harsh "old school" training techniques. I certainly don't believe you have to "break a dogs spirit" in the training process.
        How To Train A Puppy Solving Problem Behaviors Dog Training For Obedience
        Puppy Training Dog Behavior Training Obedience Commands
        Best Puppy Food Stop Dog Chewing Sit Command
        Choosing A Dog Breed Excessive Barking Dog Training Come
        Puppy House Training Digging Problems Stay Command
        Puppy Socialization Separation Anxiety Leash Training
        Puppy Crate Training Poop Eating/Coprophagia Down Command
        Clicker Training Dog Food Aggression Dog Whisperer

        You Are The Best Person In
        The World To Train Your Dog
        The dog training methods I explore, discuss and review on this site all meet or exceed the above criteria. I have successfully used these home based, cutting edge dog training techniques to:

        --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

        1. Get my puppies off to the best possible start in life.

        2. Correct numerous behavioral problems in my older dogs.

        3. Apply basic and advanced dog obedience training.

        --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

        Please browse through my site, hopefully you'll discover how to train a dog yourself in an effective, positive and non violent manner.

        You'll find lots of articles, tips and training advice, as well as my reviews of various popular dog training techniques including - dog whispering, clicker training, puppy house training and dog obedience training.

        This website has come about through years of research, reading, watching and most importantly real life hands on experience with my own dogs (and also my family's dogs).

        After-all simply understanding the proper dog training techniques doesn't help out our eager dogs. The important thing is to actually get out there with our ever willing dogs and apply the lessons with consistency, persistence and common sense. It's the best thing I've ever done with my dogs, and I'd recommend it to any dog lover.

        Love Alone Isn't Enough For The
        Health And Wellbeing Of Your Puppy

        I'm ready to learn!

        Dog Health Care and Dog Training Articles:

        --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

        Dog Training Videos & DVD's Online | Review Of Secrets To Dog Training Videos
        Find out which Dog Training Videos or DVDs are worth your money. Detailed review of dog training video packages Secrets To Dog Training, Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets & Dogsology.

        Dog Training Tips For Home Based Dog Trainers
        Dog Training Tips - huge online resource of effective dog training techniques for home based dog trainers. Learn how to train a dog yourself at home with these great dog training tips.

        Dog Training News and Views
        Dog training tips and techniques updated from dog-obedience-training-review.com

        How To Train A Puppy | Puppy Training | Potty & House Training | Crate Training
        Discover how to train a puppy the right way yourself, at home. Including puppy house training, crate training, basic obedience, potty training and clicker training for dogs.

        Puppy House Training | House Train Your Dog The Right Way | Potty Training Puppy
        Discover this proven puppy house training method. Step by Step housetraining process that will quickly potty train any dog breed. Dog house training and housebreaking information.

        Choosing A Dog Breed - Discover How To Choose A Dog Breed
        Choosing a dog breed is an important long term decision, put in some research to discover which breed of dog is right for you and your family. Includes a dog breed recommender and list of dog breeds.

        Dog Training Books | Impartial Dog Training Book Reviews | Puppy Training Ebooks
        Discover which dog training books are right for you and your dog. Read my detailed dog training book reviews including Secrets To Dog Training.

        Favorite Puppy Names - Huge List Of Popular Dog Names For Female And Male Dogs
        Find your favorite puppy names here - huge resource of popular dog names for female puppies and male puppies. Including cool dog names, cute dog names and unique puppy names.

        Dog Behavior Training | Solve Dog Behavior Problems With Latest Training Techniques
        Solve any dog problem through proven dog behavior training techniques. Fix your dog's barking, biting, chewing, coprophagia, diggi

    22. QUESTION:
      How to train my dog not to pee, poop in the house. I am so tired, pls help...?
      Hey, i ever since i bought the dog, it keep peeing in the house. I did some research and found out that there is such ting called 'crate' what is it? And pls help me, how an i train my dog :D Thank you very much for replying!

      • ANSWER:
        For the review of some dog-training programs have a look at http://kalger.bezoogle.com/pp/dog-training/

    23. QUESTION:
      How to potty train a stubborn, older dog?
      Our pekingese is now one years old and is still having accidents. We have baby gates and now have adjusted to walking her twice a day. It is our objective to have her ring a bell when she needs to go outside, like our other dog. However, she just doesn't seem to get it. We have tried crate training as well. What can we do!?

      • ANSWER:
        When you let your dog out in the morning, ring the bell just before opening the door. You dog will learn to associate the bell ringing with the door opening to go outside. Do this religiously every time you let your dog outside to reinforce the association. When your dog sniffs the bell, lavish him with praise and a treat.

        Within 7-10 days, your dog will probably attempt to ring the bell if you've been consistent with your training. When he does ring the bell it's important to praise him and immediately let him outside.

        Continue praising your dog and letting him outside every time he rings the bell. Give him more praise and positive reinforcement when he returns to the house from the outside. You an also give him a special treat such as a dog cookie.

        Check out this link below on a review site about top notch dog training courses.

        Cheers.

    24. QUESTION:
      I am getting a new dog and need tips on taking care of it!?
      I am getting a new puppy in the end of June. My family has only ever had one dog and still has him! He is an old dog and we love him! I have wanted a new puppy for five years and my mom told me on christmas i was getting one in the summer. The puppies were born 5 days ago and if you can, please give me some tips on taking care of it! Thank you!
      It is a Shih Apso, a mixed breed

      • ANSWER:
        Research all you can about the breed of dog, about crate trainning and discipline is key to raising a calm submissive puppy. Also look into dog foods because diet is also important. Here are some sites that will help you. There is no way anyone can give you all the info you need in one message. I will leave you with three websites. One for discipline and exercise, the second for crate trainning and that last is an video on the truth about dog food.
        Hope this helps, Peace,
        Aeries.

        http://www.cesarmillaninc.com/tips/basics_glossary.php#calmassertive

        http://www.dvah.com/crate.htm

        http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/best-dog-food.html

    25. QUESTION:
      Can Border collies be left for up to 5 hours a day?
      We are a family of five and really want a dog. Border collies are our favorite and we are set on getting one. However me and my two brothers are at school for 6 hours but my mum leaves the house one hour after us. The dog would be would in the morning and night with love and care from all the family. However would the time space be too much and if not how could the dog be left. In the garden, kitchen...... help please????

      • ANSWER:
        okay, Border Collies are not the kind of dog that should be left alone for long periods of time. They are working dogs and so they need to do something ALL THE TIME. Otherwise, they get bored, aggitated, and destructive.

        This is about crate-training a Border Collie puppy.
        Crating a puppy or a recently adopted adult when he's unsupervised is a safety issue. Confining a Border Collie puppy to a bathroom or kitchen is both undesirable and dangerous. These pups can tear up linoleum floors, chew and dig through walls, open drawers and cabinets. Crates can be bad if they are too small or if the pup is confined too long. Crating a pup for nine hours during the day is abuse. If someone cannot let the puppy out every 2 to 3 hours for exercise and interaction, adopt an older pup or adult dog.

        A crate is a haven when life gets to be too much. A crate is a haven for the dog when children get too rough with him. A crate is also a haven for us when we need time away from a dog’s antics!

        The advantages of crate-training include:

        When traveling with your dog: motels that allow dogs have crate requirements. Dog events, especially training clinics, are tiring---he'll need some rest. Introducing a dog to a crate for the first time while he is ill or recuperating from surgery adds undue stress. Crate the dog when other people will be in his home for repair work or cleaning.

        With a pup, a small plastic crate can easily be moved around the house. Toss treats and toys into the crate and, at first, shut the door for only a few minutes. Use it to teach the pup a daily routine. The crate can be moved from beside a chair to beside a bed, to the kitchen, or to the dining room. The pup will be in and out of the crate in these different places, learning his daily routine. Caution: if the crate is used only when you leave, the pup may develop a dislike for the crate and develop a separation anxiety. Don't make a fuss about leaving or returning. A radio or TV can be left on to help him cope with being alone.

        These are great websites about Border Collies
        http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/reviews/bordercollies.html
        http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeds/bordercollies.html
        http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/bordercollie.htm

    26. QUESTION:
      Any good kennels around Walt Disney World?
      I will be going to Disney World in December and am thinking about boarding my dog while we stay there so we can check on her now and then. First off, does anyone know how the Disney Kennels are? Are the dogs in a crate all day or are there large play areas for them to run around in? Or are there better, decently priced kennels around the area? I do not want my dog to be caged the entire day (obviously) and only let out once or twice a day.

      • ANSWER:
        I recommend a Disney Kennel.

        Here are some reviews of Disney Kennels:
        http://allears.net/tp/kennels2.htm

        From what I read many people liked it, and so did the dogs. Down below it had a list of pros and cons, which I didn't think were that bad.

        Here is some basic info on the kennels:
        http://allears.net/tp/kennels.htm

        I remember reading somewhere that they take your dog out and play wit them for 15 minutes a day, a few times.

        If you want a cheaper kennel i would Google kennels near Disney World. You maybe able to find a cheaper one. But make sure you look at reviews!

        Remember that if you choose a Disney Kennel you can leave any of the parks and take a bus to the kennel to spend time with your dog. If he is off property it is going to be a good drive to get to another kennel.

    27. QUESTION:
      Has anyone tried this crate training system?
      Has anyone tried this crate training system called the "1 Minute Dog Training" I've heard that this is the best dog training system on the market. It says that you can be gentle, but effective and train your dog in five days or less. It seems like a great system. I just wanted to know has anyone tried it yet.
      You can review the system here: http://cratetrainmydog.com/ Please let me know what you think.

      • ANSWER:
        1 minute dog training? How about "How I can part you with your money in 1 minute". There's no magical crate training system that can guarantee results in 5 days. That depends entirely on your commitment to allowing no accidents to occur, which is what gets results, not a video. There are plenty of free sites online that teach proper crate training methods

    28. QUESTION:
      Mastif Mix puppy 4 months old and has zit/rash on belly and her private area. Any ideas or suggestions?
      She has not been scratching or licking it that we see and is very rarely left alone. It has been there about a week. We live in St. Louis area. She is an inside dog and we have no other pets. Was not sure if she needed to go to the vet and just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas of what it could be or what actions we needed to take. She is eating purina puppy chow for large breed dogs.

      • ANSWER:
        Just so you know, not only is Purina a low quality food for any dog, but it's especially inappropriate for growing mastiffs (and mastiff mixes). Mastiffs are giant breeds dogs, and young giants require a careful balance of nutrients, especially calcium and phosphorus. A large breed formula, particularly one by a brand like Purina, does not offer the proper nutrition.
        An unbiased review of the Purina formula:
        http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/showproduct.php?product=1841&cat=all
        More info about the nutrients a growing giant needs:
        http://www.mastiffonlinecommunity.net/viewtopic.php?t=3445
        A great list of suggested foods:
        http://www.mastiffonlinecommunity.net/viewtopic.php?t=15522
        What happens to a tragic amount of dogs, especially mastiffs, when fed an improper diet:
        http://www.mastiffonlinecommunity.net/viewtopic.php?t=109

        Anyway, sorry for getting so off-topic! First of all, she might just have some contact dermatitis going on. These puppies tend to have pretty sensitive skin on their stomachs, so it's important to keep both those areas clean and dry as well as areas they lay on. For instance, if she has a crate, make sure that you regularly wipe down the surface of the tray as well as washing the blanket or whatever is in it. However, if the rash doesn't clear up soon or if it worsens, do bring her to a vet. She might have allergies (to her shampoo, to grass, to anything), or she might have some sort of infection or something.. On the topic of allergies, it's very possible that she's reacting poorly to her diet; she may very well be allergic to one of the main fillers it uses.

    29. QUESTION:
      Should I, a first time dog owner, adopt a 1 year old dog?
      I'm 18 and just applied to adopt this adorable medium yorkie mix. The lady said there already was another applicant before me but they would review us to see who is more suitable. The dog was too adorable to resist so I got caught up and applied for him. I don't regret applying to adopt a dog. I am sure of that. I just don't know if it's a good idea to apply for him, since he is pretty young and I haven't had a dog since I was 7. So I am as experienced as a first time dog owner.

      If I do end up getting the call for the home inspection, how should I prepare? I have a pretty big yard for a condo with a 6ft tall adobe wall with glass panels on top. I also have a small indoor laundry room where I will probably place a crate.so he can chill there when I'm not home. Is that good enough? Should I bother to buy toys and food bowls or even a crate since if he doesn't work out I probably won't be applying for any other dog soon? I know there are a bunch of questions. Please answer the ones you can.

      Thank you!
      Yeah I live with my parents and they where there when we passed by a pet store that had an animal shelter event where they had some dogs. The lady said they have had him only for a few days and don't know too much on him. He was found wondering the streets of this sketchy town. She said that he might not be house trained. Today was the first day he was available for adoption.
      Oh haha yeah I definitely have time for a dog. I tend to spend time on my phone too much or doing other useless activities. I also take regular naps. So having a dog will definitely motivate me to get out cuz I want to go on walks but everyone is busy and he would be good company. And I want to go back to my old habit of going on runs around my neighborhood and parks.

      • ANSWER:
        Do you live with your parents? You shouldn't really be adopting or buying a dog/puppy without them agreeing.

        It's good you want to adopt, but rescues normally have problems which you might find too much. Plus, a mix means it can get good and bad traits from both parents. I wouldn't recommended a mix as a first time dog, parents or not.

        If you want a dog, talk to people you live with. If you live alone, decide what breed you want. Something small-medium, a calm breed.
        Go to the kennel club for your country's website. Research the breeder, don't just take the fact that they are listed there of indication that they are a good breeder.

        Research the breed. Health problems, grooming, excercise, temperament. Also consider joining a breed forum.

        Hope this helps and good luck!

    30. QUESTION:
      Can anyone tell me some good brands of small dog carriers? Not a crate, a little bag to take them around in?
      I've been looking online, but reading reviews, they all have some drawback. Like they have no support, or they don't stay zipped, or they don't fit under an airplane seat blah blah blah. It's for my little chihuahua who won't get past 6 lbs. Has anybody has had any luck with a certain brand? Thanks people. =)
      Ok Whoaa. When did I ever call my dog an accessory? Like I'm gonna carry around a CRATE? Um, no. I need a small flexible carrier.
      I'm not paris Hilton looking for a designer handbag for my dog. I just want a carrier, who cares what it looks like? I'm looking for function not style.
      Thankyou to those who actually helped. :)The airplane suitability isn't a main feature I need, but it would be nice, as I do plan on travelling with her.
      Yeah, I basically just want an everyday baggish thing so I can take her with me doing errands and stuff. Her little legs aren't gonna go all day, so I need to carry her.

      • ANSWER:
        This depends exactly what you want it for? There are the totes that look almost like pretty or fancy purses to just carry your dog around town with you while running errands, etc. Then there are the other bags that are airline approved to transport your dog on a plane under the seat. They are two different type of bags. The known brand for the airline use is the Sherpa Bag. I have used other bags with equal convienence and sturdieness.

        The pretty bags just for carrying your toy breed around with you can range from up to the hundreds, just depending where you shop and what you can afford. My dogs do not need diamonds but my pups get lots of socializing when I take them with me a lot after they have gotten their vaccinations. I don't pay any attention to brand, I buy what I can afford and like the looks of. All have suited my purposes.

        I want to add, that where I live you don't really want to make any dog walk on the black top of a parking lot or on a sidewalk in the heat of the day because our temperatures get up to 113 or higher. Dogs' feet get burned on our pavement. So, if I am taking one of my little ones out for socializing, I carry it in the tote until we get inside away from the burning concrete or black top.

    31. QUESTION:
      People say not to purchase dogs from a pet store, but don't those dogs need to be rescued even more?
      They live in tiny cages and don't even get to go outside...ever. Don't those poor half breed puppies deserve a home the same or if not more than a rescue dog? At least the rescue dog gets to go outside and play with other dogs and meet people for walks and testimonials. Those little puppies are in the cages and you can't even hold them unless you have intentions of purchasing.. If your answer is no, please explain why.

      • ANSWER:
        I am glad you have asked this question and have chosen to educate yourself.

        If given the chance to "rescue" a dog that costs hundreds or thousands of dollars, all of the while supporting animal cruelty *or* rescuing from a shelter for a whole heck of a lot less, while supporting a system who gives medical attention, food and shelter to pets who are unwanted, which would you choose? I would choose saving a life everytime.

        Every dollar you give to the pet store that sells animals, is saying it is ok to torture pets in the name of greed and you think they should continue doing so.

        Trust me, I have been to puppy mills, it is an ugly place that is enough to make you lose your lunch. When you give money to pet stores and puppy mills they do not care that you did it in the name of "Rescuing". All they care is they got the money so they will continue to breed their dogs until they cannot carry another litter and kill them.

        If you think life at the pet store is bad, you really need to put it into perspective of life at the mill. For every puppy that is sold, the demand goes up and it is a green light for the millers to continue the cruelty.

        My mom has an adopted Pomeranian who is now 12 years old. She was rescued (in the true meaning of the word) from a puppy mill raid in Lancaster, PA 10 years ago. When she was first brought to the shelter, she had a prolapsed vulva from being bred repeatedly (keep in mind, you aren't even supposed to breed a dog until they are 2 years old and she had already had several litters at this point, likely back to back) and from poor nutrition, her teeth were literally rotting out of her mouth. Her coat was so matted and she was partially blind from being kept in a dark shed/barn for her entire 2 years, that she was originally estimated to be 5-7 years old. The vet later put her age at 2 years old.

        She needed an emergency spay because of her vulva coming outside of her vagina. She needed several teeth pulled because of her severe pain. She needed tons of eye drops. She needed to be completely shaved.

        Now, 10 years later, she is still a happy dog. Not in the best of health, due to the extreme conditions that she was kept in (Lancaster gets COLD and she was in an unheated out building) and neglect. She had fleas, ticks and worms.

        Brought in with her were other breeders as well as several litters of puppies. Some of the puppies were dead in their crates and others had to be put down.

        So, what happens to puppies that don't sell at the pet store? They lower the price until someone buys the puppy. The older the dog gets, the cheaper the price. They will do anything to sell it at this point because they can't bring in anymore full priced pups until that one sells. Worse case scenario, it is dumped at the shelter. You can literally get the same puppies at shelters as you can at the pet store *and* you can do it without lining the pockets of some of the most horrific people on the face of this earth.

        I believe that a person who can sit by and watch the suffering of any living thing to be a sociopath. Why would anyone want to reward their evil ways by giving them money?

        I hope you take the time to review the websites below. I belong to the first one, North Penn Puppy Mill Watch.

        If you are not a part of the solution, you are a part of the problem.

        I am also curious as to why you are placing a higher value on a pet store puppy than a rescue dog. Why would they need to be rescued MORE than a shelter dog, who is probably only days away from being killed?

    32. QUESTION:
      Got a new dog. any suggestions for someone who never had one?
      Can anyone give me any advice at all about how to take care of and train a dog any advice at all on anythng pertaining to taking care of a dog. Thanks.
      its a golden retreiver about 2 months old

      • ANSWER:
        She will need to be crate trained. Golden Retrievers only need choke collars during a training session, Never leave that on in the crate. just a soft leather or nylon collar.
        And she will need dog training soon (3 - 6 months of age).

        You will want to start daily grooming right away with a comb and a slicker brush. (watch out for mats behind their ears) As part of your daily play make sure you touch her ears and toes so she gets used to it and when you have to groom these areas it will not be a hassle.

        Get gumabone toys for those sharp little teeth. And later Nylabone when her big teeth come in because she will want to chew every thing, mine especially liked wood.

        I hope you have a fenced yard. check it to make sure there are no gaps where she can escape.

        Always go with her outside, this is the chance to praise her lavishly when she does her duty outside, and she will learn so quick. Also review what plants are in your yard, and make sure none are poisonous to dogs, if so fence them off or rip them out.

        to help with house breaking, no water after 8 pm, take her out immediately before you go to bed, and first thing in the morning.

        the book I used, which is still highly recommended is "how to raise a puppy you can live with". Since this was my first dog as an adult I needed all the help I could get and this really did help.

        http://www.amazon.com/How-Raise-Puppy-Can-Live/dp/1577790766/sr=1-1/qid=1158405114/ref=pd_bbs_1/104-0609046-0811947?ie=UTF8&s=books

        My husband loves the dog whisperer on cable tv. and it's fun to watch, but really with a golden retriever if you raise it up right you will not have those issues because they really want to please you and just be part of your family.

        One more suggestion, we had a puppy HMO for our lucky girl. And with the many common ailments in golden retrievers, skin allergies, ear infections, I felt it was a good deal.

        Enjoy your new Best friend.

    33. QUESTION:
      im probobly going to get a puppy this winter any tips?
      it's gonna be a purebreed beagle. can you give me some tips on how to train it. and it will be during school time and my parent will have work. since we'll be getting it in the winter. wats the best food brand also.

      • ANSWER:
        If you're getting a puppy from a breeder, they should be open to discussing training methods and food options with you unless they are irresponsible, and if they won't, I suggest you find another breeder..

        Tips on training: Never, EVER, hit or spank your dog, shove it's nose in it's urine or feces, or use force while training (pushing him or her to a sit, etc.) Whatever ANYONE says, do NOT do any of that. It really ruins your bond with the dog, and traumatizes them.

        Have lots of toys for you dog, and regulate them often (some toys only for fetch or outside, inside) switch them daily or he will get bored and find destructive ways to entertain himself.

        Find out if your dog is food or toy oriented, and if it is, great! You can use toys or treats as rewards and that makes pretty easy training. You can also check out clicker training but I'm not interested in that because I don't always have a clicker handy... I prefer to use a really enthusiastic voice, and petting. Basic commands: Sit, Lay, Come. Potty.
        A really easy way to teach your puppy to sit is holding a good treat or favourite toy over his head, if he's interested, he will look up and if you go back too far for him to continue looking up, he will plop down on his bum. As SOON as he sits down you praise enthusiastically and say "Good sit!" or whatever word you choose, and give him the treat or toy immediately. Dogs have a very short attention span so if you praise or discipline your dog after probably even 15 seconds later he will have no idea why. Also, if you see your dog about to sit, say "Sit" and when he does, say "Good sit!" and praise him. Along with the lay down command..

        POTTY TRAINING.
        I potty trained my brother's totally untrained 6 month Pug puppy in just 2 weeks, he even asked to go out by then.**
        Have your puppy with you ALWAYS. If you aren't crate training, I suggest you do, but never use the crate as punishment. The crate is a safe place for your puppy.

        If your puppy isn't in his crate, he's with you, in the same room where he's visible and if you are unable to watch him consistently, have him on a lead. If you catch him eliminating in the house, say "No!" and immediately grab him and take him outside where he will hopefully finish, and praise! Depending on his age, puppies 6-12 weeks can barely hold their little bladders, and it's not their fault if they go inside. Make sure you buy deodorizer so that he doesn't smell where he eliminated previously and go there again, because he will. Let your puppy out immediately after eating, drinking, lots of play, naps, and sleeping, and every half hour after if he doesn't go then. Once he goes, let him out every hour and watch him closely. If you don't catch him in the act, and he eliminates in the house, DO NOT PUNISH HIM, put him on a leash, or carry him, to the spot he went and say "No, bad." and take him outside. If he goes, praise excitedly even if you're frustrated or angry at him, and say " GOOD POTTY! " or your chosen word, give him a treat or a toy that he really likes or just a good pet.

        FOODS:
        I feed my dogs Blue Buffalo. But some good choices are Artemis Fresh, Blue Buffalo, Canidae, Orijen, Innova, Chicken Soup for the Dog/Puppy Lover's Soul, Merrick, Solid Gold, Wellness.. Here's a site that rates them; http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/ choose in the 5-6 star range. If you go the the dog food's site, it will usually have a store locater to find the food in your area. Follow the directions for your dog's weight and age, and make sure not to overfeed. These foods may seem expensive but your dog eats less because it fulfills his needs, so in the long run it's cheaper.
        Life = Longer, Vet Bills = Smaller.

        *I referred to your future puppy as a male, as you made no indication of the sex, apologies if it's otherwise.

        EDIT: ANY DOG FOOD SOLD IN GROCERY STORES OR WAL-MART TYPE STORES ARE VERY LOW QUALITY:
        Foods such as Beneful, ANYTHING Purina, Eukanuba, Royal Canin, Goodlife Recipe, Science Diet, Iams, WholeMeals, and Pedigree are TERRIBLE foods.

        First 2 ingredients should be meat such as "Chicken" or "Chicken Meal", there should be NO by-products, corn, wheat, soy proteins (glutens), which are all fillers, and dogs often have allergies to corn and cannot digest it.

        Meat-meal = euthanized dogs and cats, roadkill, diseased animals unfit for human consumption or animals that died before they even GOT to the slaughter house.

        EDIT: BTW, dunno the climate where you live but winter can be a pretty bad time for a new puppy, especially if you celebrate the holiday.. It's hectic and cold, and don't forget that you will have to walk your puppy daily for at least 30mins..

    34. QUESTION:
      Are golden retreivers good dogs? whats your experience with them.What are they like?
      i really want a golden retreiver now that im old enough. But i need more information about them.
      Are they loyal?..do they like to cuddle?..How are they with kids?..how long do they live?. etc etc.
      is this a good dog for a first time owner?
      and any other information you may have :D
      please and thank you ^.^

      • ANSWER:
        They're great dogs for very active homes that are committed to training and socializing them from the beginning. If you don't want to walk them twice a day for at least an hour each time, don't get them. We end up with a lot of them in the shelters right around a year old. Why? People don't realize what they are getting into. They are HUGE chewers (for the first two years of their life and they can chew through dry wall - so not enough exercise? Major destruction). You MUST crate train. You must also commit to training CLASSES not at your home do it yourself training.

        My brother has two goldens. He runs them SIX MILES every morning. My sister-in-law then walks them another hour when she gets home in the afternoon. My brother then plays fetch for another 45 minutes in the backyard with them after dinner. They are great dogs - because my brother is a great owner. He puts in the exercise and had them in training starting at 10 weeks of age. They are now 6 and 7 years old. Still have high energy. Still need exercise. They'll cuddle at the end of the day when they have gotten all that exercise and are mellowed out.

        My cousin? Not a good owner. His dog has completely wrecked their entire backyard. Thousands of dollars that went into landscaping has been destroyed. Not because he has a bad dog. Because he has a golden who gets NO exercise. The yard doesn't exercise the dog. So they get frustrated. They dig everything up. They hop the fence and go looking for fun adventures. They chew through the wooden fence and it has no been replaced with a thick brick wall. Not the dog's fault. My cousin's fault. They were not an active family and they got an active dog. Who suffers? That poor dog. Basically forgotten in the backyard because of fixable behavior problems that they have chosen to ignore.

        If you are athletic and energetic, this can be a great breed. Know that your dog will be at least 90 pounds. Are you prepared for a dog that big?

        Here is a great website that breaks down the breed:
        http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/reviews/goldenretrievers.html

        Personally, I can't deal with the shed factor. We have pits so we don't have the amount of hair that my brother has in his house. My sis-in-law vacuums daily to keep up with all of it. I love being around his dogs, though, because they are well mannered. My cousins dog? Jumps all the time. Soooo excited to finally have human contact that it will knock down the kids. Extremely mouthy because no one ever bothered to train him that it was unacceptable. Poor dog.

    35. QUESTION:
      My 4 yr old beagle has started peeing and pooping in the house, how can I get her to stop?
      She has been potty trained for quite some time. I have taken her to the vet and it is not medical. She started doing this when my boyfriend had to leave out of town for work. He has been gone for roughly three weeks and will be gone for the rest of the summer. I can not have her destroying my carpet.

      • ANSWER:
        Really the only solution is to go back to square one and review potty training.

        Keep her in the same room with you when you are home, and keep at least one eye on her at all times. If she starts to sniff or squat, interrupt her with a "NO!" then run her outside and re-enforce her for going in the appropriate location.

        When you cannot adequately supervise her, ie supervise her well enough that she cannot succeed in going to the bathroom inside, then she will need to be crated.

        Meanwhile, you'll need to scrub down the carpet with an enzyme product designed to break down dog urine in order to get rid of the odor. Even if you clean it well enough that you can't smell it, odds are she still can--unless you use the enzymes. Removing that odor is an important element in re-establishing the rule that urine and feces go outside, not inside. You can get it at about any pet store. I've used "Nature's Miracle" brand with good success.

        If you think she is missing your boyfriend, you might also make a point of setting aside time for the two of you to do something you both enjoy together. Be sure she gets lots of walks and playtime.

        It's strange but true that good exercise can fix or at least lessen almost all behavior problems. The old axiom "a tired dog is a good dog" really does hold true.

    36. QUESTION:
      I'm thinking of getting a German Shepherd puppy?
      I have 2 cats and just wondering if they will get along. Should I crate the puppy?

      • ANSWER:
        German Shepherds are great dogs, but they are not for everybody
        Here is information on the breed that will help you decide whether or not this breed is right for you.
        http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/reviews/germanshepherds.html
        http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/germanshepherd.htm
        http://www.akc.org/breeds/german_shepherd_dog/index.cfm
        http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_Shepherd_Dog

    37. QUESTION:
      I was wondering if anyone has any experience with Paws in Chelsea dog boarding place in NY?
      I was wondering if anyone has any experience with "Paws in Chelsea" the Greenwich Street location. I've done a research but I'm not 100%. They seem like a nice place, but I'd love to get some more feedback on them, particularly on how they deal with puppies. Thanks everyone!

      • ANSWER:
        I would not recommend them based on what I have heard from some dog owners. I don't recommend boarding dogs in general, and puppies in particular, at a boarding place.

        Despite what any of the so called dog hotels and dog spas say, the dogs are not supervised at all times, and having large groups of dogs that are unfamiliar with each other in an indoor enclosed area is not safe for them. This is why you will inevitably find at least some bad reviews for crateless boarding places reporting dogs being returned with injuries from dog aggression.

        In addition, notwithstanding requirements that all dogs be up to date on their shots, there are lots of diseases (there's a reason one of then is called kennel cough) that get passed on when large groups of dogs are exposed to one another in crateless boarding places.

        While sometimes there is no alternative, if you must board your dog, and are concerned for its physical well being, I would recommend boarding it at a veterinary hospital. While your dog may not be as happy being in a facility that does crated boarding (or happy at all), he or she will be safe and well cared for by the veterinary staff and if there is a medical emergency your dog will be exactly where he or she needs to be to receive immediate attention.

        The most ideal service to use for a dog is a bonded pet-sitting service. Your dog will get a lot more human attention than it would get at any boarding place and would avoid any anxiety from being confined to a crate for long periods of time. These services use dog lovers who can either keep the dog at their place while you are gone or stay at your place (the least traumatic way for the dog). They generally do not charge more than the dog boarding places and to the extent they do, it is worth the peace of mind knowing that your dog is receiving the individual attention and care of a mutual dog lover.

        The only real drawback for pet-sitting services is that they usually require much more advance notice than a dog boarding place to find an appropriate person to take care of your pet.

    38. QUESTION:
      is getting a 3 1/2 yr old english male bull dog a good idea. owner said is good with kids, crate trained,?
      It is pure bred, with papers.They say it weighs 70 pounds. House trained. Is it a good idea to bring in a dog that I didnt raise as a puppy?

      • ANSWER:
        Bulldogs (not called English anymore) are great dogs, but they are not for everybody
        Here is information on the breed that will help you decide whether or not this breed is right for you.
        http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/reviews/bulldogs.html
        http://www.akc.org/breeds/bulldog/index.cfm
        http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/bulldog.htm
        http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulldog

    39. QUESTION:
      when should I start training my two puppies?
      hello :)
      I have two puppies, both shihtzu-chihuahua mixes (brother and sister). They're about 5 months old and they are being crate-trained.
      However, I have a maltese who's ten years old and made the mistake of not training her when she was a puppy (or at all lol!)
      So I want the two puppies to know how to sit, roll over, come when I call them, etc.
      when should I start training them? Now? they're pretty tiny (like 3lbs)

      also, any good tips on training? I was about 10 when we got the maltese so I didn't even know how to train her, now I'm 20... after seeing my maltese get almost run over several times, I realized its time to train the new ones hahah

      thank you! :)

      • ANSWER:
        Training starts as soon as a puppy is standing up. Here are the two best training sites on the internet;
        http://www.dogtrainingbasics.com
        http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com
        All your basic commands and how to teach them are on these sites . The best way to train is at a good obedience class, but with the economy the way it is, the extra cash isn't always available.
        The biggest problem with using internet sites is the lack of socialization. That can be a problem unless you know where there is a well run dog park, or have several friends with dogs that you can get together with for socializing.
        When training two puppies, work with each one separately, and out of sight and earshot of each other or they will be far more interested in each other than with you and without attention you will get nowhere.
        Start with a "come" command and never allow either one off lead until they come reliably EVERYTIME you call them. Never call them to you and then do something with them that they don't like, Coming to you should be a fun thing, and NEVER chase them if they don't come when called........go get them and do not use any kind of punishment. "Come" has to be a good thing.

    40. QUESTION:
      What items do i need to take care of my puppy?
      I have a husky that is 7 months
      Thanks everybody
      He has food water his bowls all his shots a microship shelter 2 balls he had a bed but he ripped it all up just like his ducky
      He has treats his leash
      He has treats his leash

      • ANSWER:
        Hi!

        There are many pet products that can really help when taking care of puppies and dogs. But here are some of the "essentials".

        Collar
        Leashes (a normal leash for walking and a 20 foot training leash)
        ID Tags
        Bowls (one for food and one for water)
        Grooming supplies (undercoat rake, slicker brush, comb, rubber comb, bristle brush, nail clippers...)
        Clean Up Supplies
        Dental Supplies (dog brush and dog toothpaste)
        Crate
        Dog Toys
        Dog Treats & good quality Dog Food

        Optional:
        Clicker (for training)
        Dog books
        Flea and Tick Control
        Play Pen (you can use this when you don't want to keep him in his crate)
        Dental dog chews

        I noticed how you said that your dog ripped up all his dog toys. Here are some links to dog toys sold at Petsmart that are great for tough chewers (yes they may be pricey, but it's better to buy some expensive, high quality toys than cheap toys that will be torn apart within minutes).

        http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3206970

        http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3636638

        http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2751746

        Buying all the supplies for a puppy can be quite pricey and the total cost can end up being around 300 dollars or more. Some pet supplies can be bought for a cheaper price at Walmart or other similar stores.

        If you are planning on shopping at Petsmart, you can save a lot of money buy getting a Pet Perks card.

        Here is the link to the Petsmart store. You can view their products and the prices from their, too.

        http://www.petsmart.com/

        If you are trying to decide what type of pet food to feed your husky, this is a great site to look at:

        http://dogfoodchat.com/

        If you look at the very right of the page you'll be able to see a column with reviews on many brands of dog foods. I personally recommend Taste of the Wild (it's unfortunately not available at Petsmart but you can buy it at Pet Value or Globo Pet Foods).

        Good luck with your dog!

    41. QUESTION:
      How to prepare for a new puppy?
      I'm hoping to be getting a new bichon frise puppy in february, it's quite a while away but how to prepare? Any helpful websites and tips are welcome. =]

      • ANSWER:
        This is what I did:
        About a week before getting her..

        We put a bunch of money into an account at the bank (i contributed most of the money, but my parents put some in) to draw from for food, supplies, vet care, etc. I try to put part of my pay check in there and my parents contribute every month or so.

        We bought all of her supplies and got them ready: crate, a few toys, found old towels, cleaners, gates, AND had a vet appointment ready for her. I even signed her up for Puppy Class because it started about two months after we would get her!

        We decided on where she was going to sleep (in her crate, downstairs next to the back door so we could hustle her right out for potty.) Who was going to get "night duty", who was getting up with her, who stayed up late with her, etc.

        We decided on the rules of the house - where she could go, what she could do, we decided to allow her on furniture, where she would be fed, who would feed her, etc. We even had a walking schedule planned out but that never stuck because our own schedules changed a lot.

        We decided on rules for visitors - what they would do when coming over, how we would handle her, training, etc. We decided on rules for walks - heel only, loose leash, etc.

        I read a lot of books and internet articles on potty training, obedience work, puppy manners, and anything i could get my hands on.

        When we got her....

        We took her within a few days to the vet to meet the guy and start a file, plus set up a vaccination schedule and get flea/tick and heart worm stuff. Then we brought her about a week later to meet her trainer and to get her first glimpse of Petsmart so she wasn't overwhelmed the first class - she loved it!

        Of course, the only thing you really have to do is get her supplies and set up who is going to do what in the house so you don't argue over it later - plus set up vet appointment for check up and everything else, and set up rules for the dog to follow. And read books. ^_^

        As for training - some dogs learn quicker than others but it mainly depends on the trainer... which is you. If you are consistent and patient the dog will learn almost anything. You may have a bit of a tougher time with potty training because they have such small bowels/bladders but it isn't too big of a deal.

        Some supplies you'll need:

        -Kennel/Crate
        -Good Quality Food (go to http://dogfoodanalysis.com: Go to reviews, and pick a dog food that is rated 4, 5, and 6 stars.
        -Hard Toys
        -Soft Toys
        -A blanket
        -Some bowls
        -Leash
        -Collar/Harness
        -Bed
        -Treats (I recommend soft, chewy ones)

        Here are some good websites:

        Bichon Frise Grooming: http://www.petgroomer.com/Grooming101/Breeds/bichon_frise.htm

        Caring for your dog: http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/dog_care/caring_for_your_dog_the_top_ten_essentials.html

        Good luck with your puppy!

    42. QUESTION:
      Do you use seatbelts for your pets?
      Why or why not? Where can you get them??

      Is that trainer on Its Me or the Dog right when she said "If you get in an accident and that dog isn't buckled in, he'll fly through the windshield taking your head right off."

      Do you need seatbelts for cats? or just dogs?

      • ANSWER:
        my cat has a car-seat, my dog has a car-harness; and yes what she said is true, here's a couple articles about car safety for dogs and other pets:
        http://www.cartalk.com/content/features/fido/dog-safe.html#inthecar
        http://www.pet-supplies-review.com/dog-car-accessories.html
        you can buy dog car-seats almost anywhere! I bought my dog's car-harness at the grocery store in the dog aisle, and I bought my cat's car-seat at Petco...here's a link to where you can buy dog car-harnesses (seat-belts), dog car-seats (booster seats so small dogs can see out the window), or car crates for dogs online:
        http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/NavResults.cfm?Ntt=car%20safety&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&pc=1&N=2001&Nty=1
        and yeah, a dog might seem small or lightweight but picture that dog flying forward when you crash while driving at 45 mph, that dog is gonna fly!
        besides that, an unrestrained dog can jump out an open window or an open door in a strange neighborhood
        and an unrestrained dog can be a major distraction to the driver, which can cause an accident
        the reason I bought my pets car-seats is because I often drive my boss's mini van and he keeps tools in the back of his mini van (like table saws and other sharp not pet-friendly objects) so I figured if my pets weren't restrained then they'd be more likely to crawl into the back of the van and get hurt on one of the tools

    43. QUESTION:
      Does anyone else have a puppy right now under 4 months?
      I have a 12 week old Golden Retriever named Moose. Puppies are so much work, I feel like I cant do anything...if you have a puppy would you tell me about them and how its going with them?
      i knew it was going to be alot of work i just want to hear from people who also have puppies now.

      • ANSWER:
        I have a 8 week old APBT/Lab cross who's learning a lot about life in these first few months.

        Every morning when we wake up at 8 or so, Bailey and I do our stretches together. Then we head for the great outdoors where she does her business and plays a little. When we come back in, Bailey and I eat breakfast. I always fix our food at the same time, and eat mine first. Then, when I'm done, I give Bailey hers.
        In dog packs, the "alpha" eats before the rest of the pack. Bailey doesn't mind waiting because this is normal pack behavior to her.
        Then we play some ball, kill 15 or 20 minutes, and head outside again so she can potty. When we come back in, she goes in her crate and I take a shower. She pouts some at first, but it's important that I don't let her out because of her whining. If I let Bailey out on "her" time, I'm teaching her that barking and crying is an effective way to get her way. After I get out of the shower, I take Bailey to my room where she waits patiently in the corner playing with her toys as I dress and dry my hair. Then we both brush our teeth and comb our hair.
        We go outside and Bailey potties and we play until she tires out. Then, after she gets wore out, she goes back in her kennel and I work on school.
        It helps that she's tired and wore out before I put her in her kennel, because it makes it easier on both of us.
        After school, it's time for another potty break and to work on some training. So Bailey and I make our way to the backyard where we work on her tricks. Right now she knows "sit", and I'm working on teaching her "come" and "lay down". It's just as important to review previous tricks as it is to teach new ones!
        After we do that for awhile, we come in and eat lunch. Again--I eat first, just like in a dog pack.
        After we eat we lay down and watch a sitcom. I lay on the couch and Bailey lays on her bed on the floor. I could let her lie with me on the couch, but in a dog pack the most comfortable seating is reserved for the highest ranks. Bailey doesn't mind lying on the floor, and she knows she's not the boss.
        We usually fall asleep, and sleep for 20 or 30 minutes.
        When we wake up, Bailey relieves herself again.
        At this time Bailey's rested and ready to do something. So I take her outside again and play a couple games of fetch, then we work on her leash walking. Just a couple of times around the yard, getting her used to her lead. It's not important that she does everything perfect, but it is important that I reward her when she does do something right.
        After that, we head over to Grandma's house or the Park, and she gets to interact with people, which she loves.
        Usually we have our last meal at 7:30 or so, do our stretching at 8:30, potty around 9:15, and head to bed around 9:30.

        This is Bailey:

        http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/baileyshizzle/?action=view&current=1112101007_0001.jpg

        She's a typical 8 week old puppy in most ways. She's curious, and gets into everything from garbage bags to the cat litter. She's mouthy, and will chew on anything she can get her surprisingly strong jaw around. She loves to run and play, but can only tolerate 10-15 minutes of hardy exercise before she needs a break. She whines when she's in her kennel. She doesn't like her leash. She'd rather eat cat food than her dog food, and she'd eat all day if I let her..

        Here's one of the most important tips I think I'll ever hear concerning puppy training.....
        if she's yipping, absent minded, isn't listening, distracted, and unfocused it can be very stressful. The good thing is, it doesn't take a whole lot of work to wear a puppy out.
        I find that when Bailey's displaying the behaviors above, if I take her outside and play a couple of games with her for 15 minutes, it'll wear her out so when she comes back inside i can put her in her crate or just on her bed, and she'll take a nice nap while I get things together and relax :)

        "A tired dog is a well behaved dog"

    44. QUESTION:
      I want to play fetch with my two miniature schnauzers?
      How can my 2 miniature schnauzers bring the ball back to me they both love to playwith the ball but they dont bring it back ... Thank you

      • ANSWER:
        I bred Miniature Schnauzers for over 20 years and never had a natural born retriever in any of them, but all dogs can be taught to fetch.
        Find a treat that you know they will do anything for and only use it to treat for fetching.
        Retrieving work has to be done in four parts to be effective. You will need to work with just one dog at a time, although I would crate the other one so they can watch unless he/she becomes too much of a distraction. I've found dogs learn quite a bit from watching each other when you are training.
        Here are the two sites that will explain how to teach this.
        First you have to teach a "hold", this is very important because you don't want the dog to drop the fetched item until you tell him to.
        Once he understands hold, then you progress to "get it", which means pick it up. After the dog completely understands a hold and a get it, then you can send the dog out to get whatever you want him to fetch. The last command is a "come", which your dog ;should have been taught as soon as you brought him in the door. If you didn't, do that before starting any of this. http://www.dogtrainingbasics.com/come.html
        Here are the retrieve sites;
        http://www.bullwrinkle.com/training/retrieve.htm
        http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/fetch-or-retrieve.html
        Read both articles so you understand what you have to do.
        Many dog trainers will tell you youhave to pinch a dogs ear for a reliable retrieve. this is nonsense and I would pit my obedience trained dogs against any dog that has been ear-pinched as to the reliability of my retrieve work.

    45. QUESTION:
      how do you stop a dog from chewing on your things?
      i have a dog that chews on things randomly... every couple of weeks. no matter how many different chew toys that i have for him while i'm out. it's like he can't control himself and he looks really guilty when i get home and then i figure out that he's chewed something. he's two years old and i got him 3 months ago from a shelter. can i break him of this?

      • ANSWER:
        That guilty look you are seeing, isn't guilt, it's simply a reaction to what has happened to him before when you have come home. Dogs don't "do" guilt. They live in the present, not the past, nor the future. You've evidently scolded him after leaving and coming back often enough so that your return means something bad is going to happen to him and if it wasn't you it might have been wherever he lived before..
        Get him a crate and crate him with lots of things to chew while you are gone. When he is loose in the house, dog proof it. Hide electric cords, shoes, papers, anything you think he will get in to.
        Chewing is usually a phase most dogs grow out of, but in the meantime, simply treat him as you would a toddler, and remove anything he could possibly destroy.
        here are a couple of great training sites that might help you with him;

        http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com
        http://www.companionsforlife.com

    46. QUESTION:
      My dog tries to break out of his cage and is now hurting himself!?
      I have read a lot of reviews and input, but nothing seems to help. He is a 6 month old pitbull and we have had him sense he was 12 weeks. At first he just would wine non-stop, his crate would be covered in saliva and the black tray pushed out. I give him bones, rawhides, kongs, chew toys....normally about 2 or 3 different ones each day. He has a blanket in there too and I have tried leaving the tv on and a radio. We have an older dog and have even locked her in the same room during the day to see if that helps. Now that he is getting a little older he has escaped a few times so we now lock it, but the last few weeks is his destroying the crate. the front door is all bent and as a result he has little cuts on his nose and a rather big one above his eye. He plays for about an hour before we put him in there, so he should be somewhat tired and has toys so that he isn't bored. We have had friends stop by during the day to let him out but that seems to make it worse as he gets upset when they leave again. We have tried leaving him out, but the two dogs can get loud when they play and we live in a condo. He has also chewed a few things up.

      He eat and drinks before he goes in there and goes out at least 2 or 3 times before we leave. I thought the whinning was getting better because the crate wouldn't be quite as wet, but now with the being all bent and destroyed I am out of ideas as to what to do! I hate to have to medicate him as our older dog loved her crate and dogs i had growing up always did too!

      Any advice would be helpful!
      He can't escape from the crate anymore, but is now hurting himself by bending the wire and trying to escape. When he is playing, it is running around for 45min straight for the most part. It doesn't matter if he is in there after being out all day for just an hour while we run an errand or if it is during the work day, he still reacts the same way.

      • ANSWER:
        http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/separation_anxiety.html

    47. QUESTION:
      me and my family are interested in getting two rottie pups they are males.?
      Would it be alright to keep them in a crate or out and how long ?I'm in school for seven hours. along with my family?

      • ANSWER:
        Rottweilers are great dogs, but they are not for everybody
        Here is information on the breed that will help you decide whether or not this breed is right for you.
        http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/reviews/rottweilers.html
        http://www.akc.org/breeds/rottweiler/index.cfm
        http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rottweiler
        http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/rottweiler.htm
        The first site also includes info on how to take care of one (or two) if you decide to get them.

    48. QUESTION:
      Before bringing a puppy home, what do you need, and what is unecessary?

      • ANSWER:
        - food & water bowls

        - flat collar & leash (I recommend Lupine, they are guaranteed even if chewed: http://lupinepet.com/ )
        -- id tag in case your pet gets lost

        - grooming supplies, which vary based on your breed
        -- dog shampoo
        -- dog toothbrush
        -- dog toothpaste
        -- toenail clippers
        -- bristle brush or slicker brush
        -- comb (optional)

        - toys
        -- kong - http://www.kongcompany.com/
        -- a squeaker toy
        -- a chew toy
        -- a cuddle toy
        -- a tug toy

        - treats

        - crate

        - bed

        - pet stain cleaner for accidents in the house during housebreaking

        - bitter apple spray to deter chewing (note: only about 50% of dogs actually respond to bitter apple spray. many of them actually LIKE the taste of it. in that case, use pepper instead.)

        - quality pet food (see below)

        ======

        On choosing a dog food (or in your case, either a puppy food or an all-life stages food):

        Read the ingredients on the food you buy. Go with a high quality dog food. A grain should not be in the first couple ingredients ingredient (corn and such are mainly fillers, dogs don't digest it well). Avoid foods that have a lot of "by products" listed.

        Here is an article about byproducts:
        http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=ingrd

        And an article on what ingredients to avoid:
        http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=badingredients

        ---

        Some GOOD foods are :
        * Merrick - http://www.merrickpetcare.com/
        * Solid Gold - http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/
        * Canidae - http://www.canidae.com/
        * Timberwolf - http://timberwolforganics.com/
        * Orijen - http://www.championpetfoods.com/orijen/orijen/
        * Wellness - http://www.omhpet.com/wellness/
        * Chicken Soup brand - http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssoul.com/
        * Blue Buffalo - http://www.bluebuff.com/
        * Innova - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/innova.asp
        * Innova EVO - http://www.naturapet.com/brands/evo.asp

        Or check this website for good foods: http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/
        (I recommend only feeding foods rated 4, 5, or 6 stars. Anything 3 stars or less, I would stay away from.)

        ---

        Stay away from grocery stores brands. They are low-quality foods chalk full of fillers, preservatives, dyes, etc.. (Grocery store foods are those like Beneful, Old Roy, Alpo, Pedigree, Purina, etc.)

        Beware "premium" foods. "Premium" does not mean good nutritionally, and is not a nutritionally high quality food. It has the same types of ingredients as grocery store foods, just a bit better quality of those not-so-good ingredients. (Premium foods are those like Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, etc..)

        Another thing to be wary of: A lot of vets will recommend what they sell in their office. They get profit from the brands they keep on their shelves, that's why they push it. Truth is, vet schools don't focus a lot on nutrition. It's not saying that a vet is a bad vet because he recommends those foods, a lot of vets just are told "this is good food", so they pass the message along without proper nutrition knowledge. Also, some dog food brands (like Hills) support vet schools, so vets have heard of it from the time they start college, which makes them think it's good as well.

        ---

        Higher quality food may seem more expensive at first, but it evens out. The higher quality the food, the less fillers eaten (and therefore the less poop comes out the other end). Your dog eats more to try to get the nutrition it needs, and most of the food just passes right on through. Also, it will make your animals healthier, so you save money on vet bills in the long run.

        ---

        "Big box" petstores like Petco and Petsmart rarely have quality foods. Also, grocery stores and Walmart aren't good places to buy food either.

        Your best bets for getting quality dog food are:
        - small, locally owned petstores
        - dog boutiques
        - farm supply stores

        ---

        When switching foods, do it gradually. I do this over about a two week timespan:
        25% food A, 75% food B
        50% food A, 50% food B
        75% food A, 25% food B
        100% food A
        .


    dog crates reviews

    Dogs Crate Training

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1. QUESTION:
      Is there a way to introduce two dogs by using a dog crate?
      I'm familiar with one way to introduce dogs to each other by walking them together, but is there a way to introduce a new dog to a house with dogs by using a crate? I don't actually know if there's a way, just wondering. Any other advice on introducing dogs OR crate training welcome.

      • ANSWER:
        Advice for Introducing-

        http://www.thepetcenter.com/article.aspx?id=3393
        http://www.wikihow.com/Introduce-a-New-Dog-to-Your-House-and-Other-Dogs

        Information/Advice for Crate Training-

        http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html
        http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/crating.html
        http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/crate-train.pdf
        http://www.perfectpaws.com/crt.html

    2. QUESTION:
      How to get crate trained dog to calm down?
      My dog is crate trained. He is very well behaved in his crates at home. However, I just brought him up to college with me. And I feel like I have just made a huge mistake.
      He will have much more attention and time out of his crate here. However, he currently will not settle in his crate. I sympathize because he spent 12 hours in his crate in the car on the way here. However once we got here he has been nothing but problems.
      He pooped in the house, something he has NEVER done. I put him in his crate so I could go socialize with some guests my roommate had over, and he started frantically whining, barking, and digging at his crate.
      We have been here for about an hour and a half. Am I over reacting? I'm know it's a new place, new people, new smells, and he had a very long day. However, I do not think I will be able to keep him here if this behavior continues. He is 4 years old, and I have had him and shown him since he was a pup.

      • ANSWER:
        Did you take him for a long walk/jog/whatever exercise that is appropriate for the breed, before you put him in the crate for the trip over and did you take him out for some exercise once you arrived?.

        It's always a wise idea to exercise a dog before crating them.

    3. QUESTION:
      Does anyone else agree that crate training is stupid?
      I live on a farm with 10 dogs and not ONE of them has been crate trained and not ONE of them has a problem with it. We got some as puppies, some as young adults, and some as older dogs. Crate training is for lazy people who dont want to deal with the dog so they stick it in the crate...Does ANYONE agree with me???
      NO all of our dogs stay inside with us, and we do work. I HATE city people who think we just sit here all day

      • ANSWER:
        I don't agree with you at all! Crate training keeps them safe and it also makes it much easier to housebreak.

        Lazy people are the ones that keep their dogs outside so they don't have to train them.

        Dogs are den animals and if crate training is done right, they will use their crate as a den.

        I had a Min Pin and I would find her in her crate napping. She loved it! I left the door open so she could come and go when she pleased.

    4. QUESTION:
      How do i use a dog crate to make it pee outside?
      I heard that there were ways of using the dog crate for potty training.
      EX. leave it in there and look for any unusual behavior and make it go outside on a leash or something

      (dunno if thats right ^^ up there)
      So how do i use a dog crate to potty train it?

      • ANSWER:
        Being in the crate doesn't teach your puppy to pee outside, you taking the puppy outside and rewarding it when it pees outside does. Crate training just helps in this process by encouraging the puppy to hold it's bladder.

        Dogs instinctively like to "den", they like small, closed in places to sleep and call their own, so a crate is like that for a dog. Once your dog is properly introduced to it's crate, and trained to not mind the door being closed, he will not want to pee in there, because it's his bed. Who likes to sleep in pee? So then the dog will WANT to hold it's bladder until you can take it outside to pee.

        BUT, puppies physically can't hold their bladders all that long. Puppy can be in it's crate up to the number of months it is old (so a two month puppy need to be let out every 2 hours). So again, using the crate training method takes consistency on your part, letting the puppy out very often so it can be outside and learn that is where it should go pee.

        Puppies need to be let outside after drinking, as soon as they wake up, after eating and after a good play session. Also, just every couple of hours or so when they are really young. If you leave your puppy in the crate too long, it won't want to pee in it's bed, but it will have no choice but to do so, which really slows down the training process.

        Good Luck!

    5. QUESTION:
      Why do people get mad when the dog has not been crate trained?
      All my life I have had dogs most of them were outside dogs but a few inside and none of them has ever been crate trained. Why do people get so mad when they find out that dogs has never been crate trained? I personally can't stand the thought of a dog in a cage or chained up, I believe they dogs should be free and not crammed in a box or stuck on a chain.

      • ANSWER:
        I don't get mad if someone's dog is not crate trained. Makes no difference to me. Unless someone expects to come with their dog to stay at our house and let their dog pillage and plunder and pee on our floors. Then, out of common courtesy, I would expect the dog to have a crate.

        My dog is crate trained. How often is she actually in a crate? Umm.....maybe around 14 times a year while we are at agility trials and I have to be out walking the course to keep her safe and secure. Or, if we stay overnight in a motel and have to go out to eat, rather than leaving her in hot car.

        As a pup, she was kept in a crate next to my bed at night to assist with potty training. When she was spayed, she was put in her crate to keep her quiet and prevent her from running around the first day. When she injured her paw and needed "bed rest" a couple of days...into the crate...and on leash for walks.

        Crate training can be useful for the "just in case" scenarios in life. . I do not use it as a "cage" where I put my dog away like a box of cereal.

    6. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to crate train an adult dog?
      My husky is deathly afraid of crates but we are moving into an apartment and I'm worried about her destroying the carpet when we're out. I, very irresponsibly, traumatized her with her first crate. I didn't understand, at the time, that adult dogs don't take to crate training as willingly as puppies. Whenever she was crated, she cried, howled and barked the entire time. She also urinated in it. And those were the times she didn't break out of it.

      I desperately need some tips that have worked for people when crate training an adult dog. She won't even go near a crate if she sees it so it's going to be a long process. I've done research about it online but many sites don't apply the information to dogs who already have a negative association with the crate.
      Just as some added information- she can't be confined to a room. That's what we've already done with her. She damages the area around the door to whatever she's confined to. If she's in one room, she'll scratch the door up and the carpet around the door to that room. If she has the run of the apartment she'll scratch the door up and the carpet around the door to the apartment.

      • ANSWER:
        First thing to realize - dogs can be trained, even adult dogs who have had bad experiences. You are right in trying. A crate will become the dog's den, their safety zone. In the beginning, leave the door open, and put a favorite toy or treat in the crate. Don't force the dog to go anywhere near it, but make sure she sees you when you put the goodie inside. It will take a while for her to realize nothing bad will happen when she's in the crate, and you need to make sure no one goes near the crate or makes any loud, unexpected noises when she's around it. Only give her this special toy/treat inside the crate, and at no other time.
        She will begin to realize the only way to get this special goodie is inside the crate. Keep the crate somewhere out of the way, however, close to where the family typically hangs out, i.e., near the sofa/TV, or in a bedroom, or by the kitchen table, wherever the family typically is.
        As she begins to go inside the crate to get her goodie, very quiety and calmly tell her she's a good girl, use a special word such as crate, house, bed, a single word that she will begin to associate with the crate. For example, tell her quietly "Good Girl House".
        This will help in the future when you want her to go to the crate, you can tell her "house" and she'll know what you mean.

        Never use the crate for any type of punishment.

        Once she is comfortably going in and out, starting closing the door, but not locking it. Always use her special goodie whenever she is in the crate.

        If she whines, ignore it. Hard to do, I know. However, if she whines and you let her out, then she has control and gets what she wants, not what she should do. Make sure the crate has a couple of toys, bones, blanket, something that will make her comfortable (physically). also be sure the crate does not have any sharp metal edges, so if she does try to dig or claw her way out, she will not get hurt.

        Once you start closing the door, she will get comfortable with this stage. The next step is locking the door. In both of these stages, only leave her in for a very short time, 5 minutes or so, with you in eye sight of her. Don't pay attention to her, just be where she can see you. Gradually increase the amount of time she is left inside the crate.

        Although it will take a while to build up her confidence and the time length required, it will be well worth it. A crate will become her house, her safety net. Make sure whenever she is in her crate, with or without the door open, that she is left alone. This is especially important if you have children around, as they need to understand as well as the dog that the crate means she is to be left alone, and they can play with her later. She will see her crate as a place to go to rest, get away from noise and commotion, and be happy.

    7. QUESTION:
      What are some tips to making an adopted dogs transition to a new household smoother.?
      Just adopted a new dog. The previous owner couldn't have multiple dogs at the house they were moving at. The dog is crate trained and supposedly house trained. But we walked her and made sure she got out to go to the bathroom. But she waited until we went to bed and did her buisness while we were sleeping. She also did her buisness in the house earlier in the day. Is it a matter of just re-house training or is it because of the anxiety of the new houshold.

      • ANSWER:
        My dog is house trained too, but when I visit my parents' house I ALWAYS end up cleaning up poo at least once while I'm there. I'm sure it's just the change of house and people and once she settles in and gets in her new potty routines she'll be fine.

    8. QUESTION:
      How will I encourage my puppy (almost 2 yrs. old , 65 lb. pittbull) to stay in a crate while I'm at work?
      Thanks to all the people who gave their advise about dog crate training. I will definitely try to look for one.
      Now, once I get a crate for him , how will I encourage him to stay inside and have him like it? I need all your advise. . I hope this dog crate training will work for him.
      Thanks! ..amy..

      • ANSWER:
        You can't leave the dog in there all day. Get a good dog training book.

    9. QUESTION:
      How do I stop my dog from getting so excited?
      My dog is crate trained but, she gets so excited when we come home she pees on the floor before we can get her out the door. Any time she gets excited she pees on the floor. You can leave her out all day and not one drop but, you walk in the door and she jumps and barks and gets so excited she pees at your feet before you can get her out. She is great every other time though and no poop issues. What do we do. She is a year and a half old.

      • ANSWER:
        i 100% agree with the stuff above, ignore her for a bit when you get home. let her know that she gets attention when she calms down. shell figure it out

        also, little pups dont have the same bladder control as an adult dog does. itsll get better

    10. QUESTION:
      What are the pros and cons of crate training a dog?
      Can someone tell me the pros and cons of crate training a dog and could you please give some details?

      • ANSWER:
        Crates can be misused. You can't just throw the dog in it and forget about it. But used properly, it is one of the best tools available to a dog owner. I never leave a dog in a crate when I am around to watch it and try to never leave a dog more than 4-5 hours in a crate. For how I use a crate for housebreaking, see
        http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110321204022AAOaU3P

        Many people don't use crates and get along fine. They fool themselves into thinking others could train their dogs not to need a crate. Other dogs may not be as bad as the young Labs I am plagued with. Still your house and dog will be much safer with the dog in a crate when you are away. The dog may be happier in its den than loose in the house. It relaxes, it feels safe in its den. It rests, the body slows down reducing the need for water and relieving its self. Dogs that have been crated all along do very well. Many of them will rest in their crates even when the door is open. I think the plastic ones give the dog more of a safe, enclosed den feeling. They are harder for dogs to open too. Metal ones can be put in a corner or covered with something the dog can't pull in and chew. Select a crate just big enough for the full grown dog to stretch out in.

        Leave it some toys. Perhaps a Kong filled with peanut butter. Don't leave anything in the crate the dog might chew up. It will do fine without even any bedding. You will come home to a safe dog and a house you can enjoy.

        A dog that has not been crated since it was little, make take some work. Start out just putting its toys and treats in the crate. Praise it for going in. If you have been able to trust it with any bedding, put that in the crate. Feed it in the crate. This is also an easy way to maintain order at feeding time for more than one dog.

        Crate or no crate, unless you let it sleep with you, the puppies first few night can be rough. One desperate night many puppies ago I found a solution. Puppies are known for crying the first few nights. I have never had much luck with the old clock or radio tricks. What I do is lay down by the crate like I was going to sleep there. Usually a puppy may fuss a little, but then settle down and go to sleep. Once it is asleep, you can get up and go to bed.

        I can't think of a single disadvantage of using a crate.

    11. QUESTION:
      How long does it take to house break a dog?
      Breed - Irish Setter

      How long does it take to house break an Irish Setter dog by crate training?
      Age - Puppy, about 2-3 months old

      • ANSWER:
        Irish Setters are very smart and strong willed dogs. So you must be relentless with your training. I have a Weimariner and it took about 4-6 months until they accidents had completly stopped. Make sure the crate is the right size, giving too much room or too little can lead to destruction. Best of Luck

    12. QUESTION:
      What is the purpose of crate training a dog? How to do it?
      We got a new dog last weekend. He is about 10 weeks old. We've been told we should crate train him.

      What is the purpose in crate training?
      How do we go about doing it?
      What size crate?

      Give me all the details you can regarding this.

      FYI:
      He is a Yorkie/German Spitz mix and will probalby be no larger than 10 lbs.

      • ANSWER:
        wussy dog :-)

        anyway, i got my new puppy in september and crate trained her. Potty training is number 1, most dogs will not go potty in their crate as it is their home. Comfort is number 2. Believe it or not, bringing a dog into a large home can be overwhelming, the crate is a small little place to call their own. My puppy stays in her crate all day long while i'm at work, and sleeps in there at night. Were actually going to start weening her out at night, as she's not a wussy dog, and we actually have her for protective purposes. She won't be very helpful if she's in a crate and someone breaks in while were sleeping. As it is now, we leave the door open to the crate when were at home, and she generally naps in there, so believe it or not, they really do like it. :)

        Training, make sure the crate is only big enough for the puppy to stand up and turn around in. If it's any bigger, it can walk away and poop in a corner and still find a cozy place to sleep. Start by putting him in there RIGHT away, give him a treat at first to coax her in. At first keep the crate by you, so you can always reassure the dog when it starts whining. Then everyday move it closer to where you'd like to keep the crate permanently. Be sure to make sure to let him out to potty on a regular schedule, so they aren't forced to hold it, but once they're about 3-4 months he should be housebroken and he should be able to start holding it as long as necessary.

        there are lots of good websites. I just put my baby in anytime we left the house or went to bed. She cried the first few nights, but we broke her of that in about 3 nights.

    13. QUESTION:
      Is it ok to start crate training my dogs who are 4 and almost two? Will it work?
      I just moved into a new home with two other people. I want to start crate training my two dogs. I feel it would be better cause now I just leave them in my room when I go to work. Will it be more difficult to do so since they are not puppies? I want to crate train them for when I am gone to work they can be in there, so at night they will still sleep with me. Will that be ok ?

      • ANSWER:
        Lots of water and bathroom breaks available?
        Be sure and get home as soon as you can and immediately let them out to pee and use bathroom.
        Let them out right before you leave to go out for each thing too.
        Keep the room very cool and lots of air flow for sleeping ease.
        Dont let the people in the house turn the AC off because they are leaving.
        Maybe keep a little fan blowing in the room, but not right on the dogs for sure.

    14. QUESTION:
      Crate training puppy in home with adult dogs?
      Hi there, we have two adult dogs and will be adding a puppy to the family. The older dogs were both crate trained, but due to lack of space once they were about a year an a half we had to allow them free roam of the house (no problems)
      We want to crate train the puppy, but three crates just does not work for us. How difficult will this be to crate train the puppy with the other two running free?

      • ANSWER:
        We have an adult dog and just got a puppy. Obviously we need to crate the puppy while we are at work & we haven't had any problems. Like all puppies, he cries and barks while in the crate so we make sure the older dog has access to the upstairs so he can get away from the noise. We were very worried at first about the 2 dogs getting along, but they have started playing together now and I feel a lot better. It took about 4 weeks. However, the puppy is still too young to be left outside of the crate when we aren't home. Good Luck!!

    15. QUESTION:
      What can be done about our dog who growls at our 3 year old constantly?
      Our dog is crate trained and generally well mannered, but whenever our 3 year old boy is around, she constantly growls and barks. As soon as he wakes up until he goes to bed she growls at him. We also have a 1 month old, with whom the dog is fine. I am so over this dog. I have told my wife that we need a doggie valium for her, but she thinks I'm being silly. Please HELP!

      • ANSWER:
        First off is your dog spayed? If she is not that that explains it all. Get her spayed. If she is spayed than went ever she growls at him then take her into the other room until she has stopped growling . and then bring her back out and if she starts to growl again take her out of the room. and do this until she has stopped growling. this may be hard the first few days because u will have to do it a lot until she learns but don't worry she will learn.

        Good Luck! <3
        ConcertGirl

    16. QUESTION:
      What size dog crate should I use for 3 small dogs?
      I have three dogs I want to crate train. Should I buy three separate crates or can I simply buy a bigger one that can fit all of them?

      • ANSWER:
        Buy three small crates, one for each. Give them a towel or a blanket in each. Give them treats and special toys for being in their "bedrooms". Our border collie runs into his crate when we say, "Go to bed, Rudy". He loves his room. It gives the dog privacy. Try not to use it as punishment but get them to enjoy it and run in whenever you ask. Leave it open at first. Then close for longer and longer, bit by bit.

    17. QUESTION:
      how do you prevent accidents in the dog kennel during crate training?
      my dog is a male and 9months old,he is from a shelter, and were crate training him. well this morning and yesterday morning he went poo in his kennel, and there not supposed to poo or urine where they sleep. what can i do to prevent that...or what is the next step?

      • ANSWER:
        In the shelter he had no choice but to defecate where he slept. Take him out frequently for potty breaks. Don't expect immediate results from a dog that has been traumatized.

    18. QUESTION:
      Why was my dog bleeding from on of his whisker holes?
      My dog is crate trained. So when I went to get my dog from his crate and I hoticed that 2 of his whiskers had gotten caught in his cage. When he stood up the 2 whiskers where pulled of. When I came to pet him I noticed he was bleeding in the two holes that the whikers were in. Is this normal.

      • ANSWER:
        yes he must of caught them pretty hard and yanked them out which caused them to bleed. wash the area and dry it then put on a little antibiotic cream. he will be ok. check the cage to see where he got caught and see if u can fix it so it won't happen again.

    19. QUESTION:
      How cold is too cold to leave a dog outside in the elements all day?
      I live in Las Vegas NV and the high temperature is 65 degrees and the low is about 47 degrees. I have a new job and I will need to leave my two dogs outside 10 hours while I am at work. Are these temperatures too cold? Or should I leave them in the house all day for 12 hours and let them out when I get home? They are big dogs and crate trained.

      • ANSWER:
        What kind of dogs are they to start with? A long haired dog like a shephard, husky etc would have absolutely no trouble with 47 degree temps. Even a short haired dog wouldn't have too much trouble if they had an enclosed area to stay out of the wind and had blankets etc.

    20. QUESTION:
      Why is my potty trained dog peeing in house?
      My dog is crate trained (we always have him out when we are home) and potty trained. He suddenly is peeing on the floor right in front of us. He peed on the wall twice, the floor about five times now in the last week. He also is going to the bathroom in his crate. We always let him out at least every 4 hours to go to the bathroom. Where is this coming from?? He's also having some other behavioral issues... I'm not sure where that's coming from either. Mostly we are wondering about the peeing and pooping. Let me know!

      • ANSWER:
        If he was actually trained and now isn't, take him to be checked for a UTI

    21. QUESTION:
      How can I make my dog be more calm when I get home?
      So my dog is crate-trained so when I get home from school I let her out of her crate and she just becomes a total spaz. She doesn't stop jumping up on me and running around and skidding on the floor and its just so annoying and we usually cannot get her calm for about 10 minutes.

      • ANSWER:
        A few things you can do:

        1. Wait to let her out until she is calm inside the crate. Just stand there until she is not freaking out. Don't say anything, just be quiet and calm yourself.

        2. Open the door a little and snap a leash on her collar. Don't say anything now either, your voice ane demeanor will get her riled up. If she is acting like a freak, just ignore it.

        2a- if you can't take her for a walk, put a leash on her and keep her with you in the house, but basically ignoring the dog until or unless she is acting calmly. Any attention even negative will reinforce her unstable behaviour.

        3. Take her outside, to the yard or down the block for a little walk. If you want to speak to her just speak calmly, not happily or angrily.

        4. Over time, you can repattern her behaviour to being much more calm when let out of her crate.

        She is currently exhibiting a HUGE RELIEF behaviour display as you are describing now. Taking her out calmly will show her that she doesn't need to go apesnot to get a positive response from you!

    22. QUESTION:
      Can I use a dog crate just for house training?
      Hi, I want to use a dog crate just to house train my puppy. Once it's trained and integrated into the family I'm planing on removing the crate and replacing with a bed. Main reason is space needed for a cage to fit a fully grown Labrador. Is this ok, or will it cause confusion/ anxiety to the dog?

      • ANSWER:
        It won't "create" anything but piss&shit & a torn/chewed up house.
        When you've lived w/the crate for a *YEAR*,you won't notice.

    23. QUESTION:
      How to crate train a 3 year old jackahuahua?
      I have tried to crate train my dog but he just urinates and poos all over his bed and the crate still! He is over 3 now and its so frustrating! The cage is suitable for a large dog and he is only a chihuahua cross jack russel! I always leave him with a chew or toy.. And never for longer than 4 hours! What do i do?

      • ANSWER:
        You train a mutt like you would a purebred. The dog should also be vet checked. Google crate training.

    24. QUESTION:
      How do I stop my male dog from going pee everywhere in the house?
      My 3 year-old male pug still gos pee anywhere he can in the house. On the bed, on the couch, every piece of furniture we own. I have tried everything. Ive seen every episode of the Dog Whisperer, Crate training, punishment, and he is neutered. Nothing. Is there some kind of spray pheromone? Magic? ANYTHING???? Please help!!!!

      • ANSWER:
        Free 2-3 minute training videos on this great dog forum I go to daily.....

        How to Housebreak your dog! (this one is a joke. You got to see lol)
        http://dogforumsite.com/viewtopic.php?f=…

        How to Train Puppies: How to Housebreak Your Puppy
        http://dogforumsite.com/viewtopic.php?f=…

        How to Potty-Train Your Dog
        http://dogforumsite.com/viewtopic.php?f=…

        How to Potty Train a Dog
        http://dogforumsite.com/viewtopic.php?f=…

        How to Potty Train Your Dog
        http://dogforumsite.com/viewtopic.php?f=…

        How to Potty Train Your Puppy
        http://dogforumsite.com/viewtopic.php?f=…

        How to Potty-Train a Puppy
        http://dogforumsite.com/viewtopic.php?f=…

        Hope it helps! Good Luck! :)

    25. QUESTION:
      How do you get your dog to like crate training?
      I have a puppy and I am trying to crate train him but every time I put him in his crate he starts howling and barking. How do I get him to like being in his crate? Or is it something that I should ignore?

      • ANSWER:
        When crate training my puppies I put a safe chew toy(stuffed kong) in with them and leave them. The most important part of crate training is to never approach the crate or let the puppy out when it is making noise. This means letting them howl. I do check on them to make sure they are all right (no pinched toes or something) but it is a quick visual check and then I leave. To get the pup out of the crate I wait in the living room until it has been quiet for a while. I stand up and walk down the hall toward my room with the crate. If there is any noise from the pup I go back to the living room and the process starts again. Pups quickly realize barking causes me to go away.

    26. QUESTION:
      Where should you keep the crate for a dog when crate training?
      I am crate training my puppy she is 10 weeks and i was wondering when i am crate training her should her crate be in the same room as me when we are sleeping?

      • ANSWER:
        you need to put the crate were ever you want her to sleep on a regular basis so she does not get confused. Also put a blanket over the whole thing so she cant see out . During the day keep the crate door open so she knows its her place of refuge and not a punishment. This way she can come and go as she pleases. Dogs are den animals by nature and a crate should make her feel secure.

    27. QUESTION:
      Is it really good to crate train your dog?
      >< My almost 2 year old dog has his own little..Well,had anyway,it squished..Anyway,his own little..Um,some matireal,plaid dog house.

      But,is it better to crate train him?
      Maybe I can convince my parents to get him a crate?

      What are the cons and pros of C.Training?
      ^^;

      It's a small dog bed,shaped like a dog house,that is plaid.

      • ANSWER:
        I am a big advocater for crate training! There is a huge misconception about crate training and people think it's cruel. That is so far from the truth! It is ideal for potty training and it helps them stay out of trouble until they get used to what's expected from him/her....plus, they come to realize that the crate is "their space/bedroom" and actually enjoy going in there even if they don't have to. Sometimes when dogs just want to be left alone, they will go in there and kick back just like humans do when they go to their bedrooms to relax. If you're interested in crate training here is what I did for both dogs I have owned since being an adult.
        When I was working and got a new pup. I made sure I took her out for a walk for at least 15 - 20 minutes before I left for work and the minute I got home, I took her out for another 15 - 20 walk. I was home within 8-1/2 hrs so that was the longest she stayed in the crate during the day. She had free roam of the home while I was there and I made sure to take her out about every 2-3 hours afterward. Then at night I would obviously take her out just before bedtime and bring the crate into my room next to my bed and she would sleep in there and be fine until morning. After about 2 months, I let her out of the crate at night and she was fine and then at about 4 months, I was able to let her stay at home without crating her and she was fine and fully potty trained. Please remember it is essential to make sure your dog gets some exercise especially if it is being crate trained. So you may want to take longer walks or walk more often. Also, the crate should be large enough for your dog to stand up and just barely touching the top and it should be long enough for your dog to lie down, fully extended with only a few inches in front and behind him/her. The only thing I had in her crate was a nice comfy dog bed along with 1 or 2 bones (I used Nyla bones so I wouldn't have to worry about them choking or getting thirsty when nobody is home). Another "pro" to this method is they rarely ever do their "business" in their crate! Only one time did one my dogs have an accident and it was when he had to poop. He must of put his rear up against the crate, cause the poop was actually outside the crate. Another advantage was neither dog got into things they weren't suppose to like the garbage can or chewing up things (couches, rugs, shoes etc.) and I don't mean only when they are crated. This helped afterward when they were able to let out on their own. One last thing is that your dog does not have to be a puppy to be crate trained so I say go for it but again, it's your choice!

    28. QUESTION:
      Putting a shih tzu mix in a cat carrier to crate train it?
      My sister in law Megan has a cat carrier and I don't know if it is big enough to work for a dog to be crate trained or not. It has about enough room for the dog to lay down turn around and stand but it would be a little bit cramped in there. Do you think this would be okay to potty train it?
      I only want to have her in there while she is not potty trained though.

      • ANSWER:
        a dog is a dog and a cat is a cat,,,what do you think?????

    29. QUESTION:
      What are your opinions on crate training for dogs?
      My dog is 8 months now. She's pretty much potty trained (a few accidents every so often if she gets too excited) and it seems like she has stopped chewing on things. We put her in her crate when we have to leave the house and when we go to sleep. However, I've been feeling pretty guilty about it lately because she always cries when we put her in there. I think it's because she doesn't like being left alone downstairs. How do we know when it's time to stop with the crate training? Are there any good websites I can check out?

      • ANSWER:

    30. QUESTION:
      Do you have your dog crate trained & leave them in it during the day?
      I know alot of people crate train their dogs, but I don't really know anyone who leaves their dog in a crate all day. I work from home and would like to possibly train a new dog to stay in a crate when I leave for a couple hours. I just didn't know how big of a cage to get and how well this works??

      • ANSWER:
        I have crate trained. I am actually in the process right now. The crate is only used when you are training, but it is taken up once they are trained. It works EXTREMELY well. Get a cage just big enough for you dog to stand up, turn around, and lay down. Don't leave a dog in there more than 7-8 hours without a chance to get out, stretch their legs, and "go."

        Just in case you need these!
        Below are Crate Training/House Training Tips.

        When you are leaving the house, or going to bed for the night, do the following. Never actually shove the dog in the crate, either throw treats in there, or sqeek a toy and put it in there. The dog will eventually learn that they have to go in, if you place them in front of the crate, and say the word.. Place the dog in the crate, along with some safe toys. Close the door, give a treat, and say your crate command.(Such as, night night, crate, or bed). Leave.
        **I DO NOT SUGGEST CRATING PUPPIES THAT ARE YOUNGER THAN 12 WEEKS**
        Repeat slowly extending the time, and make sure you leave time between kennel times, to spend with your puppy. Never expect your puppy to stay in his kennel longer than the age he is in months plus one. (example, if your puppy is 5 months old, only leave it in there for 6 hours. No dog/puppy should stay in it's kennel longer than 7-8 hours.

        Rules:
        1.Try to teach them that their crate is a good place. Reward them when you place them in the crate. This is teaching them, that a treat comes with good crate behavior. Always keep your dog in the crate, unless you can keep a good eye on him.
        2. Another option, if you do not want to place your dog in the kennel all of the time, hook his leash to your belt loop, this way he can not go off and use the restroom somewhere, and you don't know about it.
        3.Always take him outside after;(ON A LEASH); rough play, after he eats or drinks, after being let out of his crate, after he wakes up after a night or if he is,
        sniffing,staring at you,whining, or sitting at the door.
        4.Don't ever hit your dog, or rub his nose in his mess. This will just teach the dog to be afraid of you.
        5.Don't feed him or give him to much water, before you plan to put him in his cage.
        6.Don't expect your dog to hold it's restroom, more than the age of the dog in months, plus one. But no dog should have to hold it's bladder more than a 7-8 hours.
        7.Be patient!! That is the key, to housetraining. Of course if you get too overwelmed, you can always buy a book, or ask a professional trainer!
        8.Always, when he goes to the bathroom ouside, give lots of praise and treats!!
        9. If you expect your puppy to go outside, and dont use puppy pads when he gets older, starting out with puppy pads, is not a good idea, because this trains them that it's ok to go inside, and then before they know it, they cant, it is to confusing for them.
        10. Work out a schedule that fits your lifestyle. Feed your dog the same time every day.
        11.When you go outside, stay outside until he uses the restroom.
        12. Dogs while first potty training, need to go outside every 2-3 hours.
        13.Do not make the dog smell his mess, strike him or lock him ouside. This will just confuse the pup, and it might be afraid of you.
        14. Ignore whining, unless you KNOW that he/she has to go to the bathroom.
        Good Luck!

    31. QUESTION:
      Does anyone else agree that crate training is stupid?
      I live on a farm with 10 dogs and not ONE of them has been crate trained and not ONE of them has a problem with it. We got some as puppies, some as young adults, and some as older dogs. Crate training is for lazy people who dont want to deal with the dog so they stick it in the crate...Does ANYONE agree with me???

      • ANSWER:
        I don't

    32. QUESTION:
      How do you stop a dog from "crying" when crate training it?
      Rottweiler, 10 weeks, been crate training for 3 weeks, always cries/ whines/ barks when placed in cage as if being punished. Tried shorter amounts of time, remaining in the area while she is in it, feeding her in/ out of the crate, but she still cries. She also chews her urine training pad into a million peices overnight!!! The only time she is hyper or misbehaves is in the crate.

      • ANSWER:
        She obviously hates it in there...I can see a use for crate training, if the owner has too many valuables and too little time to actually train a puppy....but I would never use a crate to teach my pup house manners, any more then I would keep my child in a cage...I just don't get it..

    33. QUESTION:
      Can a dog not be crate trained and still be well trained?
      My new puppy has seemingly fought the idea of being in a kennel for the past 4 days. Literally no improvement has been made, as he still screams and cries. When he is out of his kennel, he is completely relaxed and submissive. Can I still train my dog correctly, without him being crate trained?

      • ANSWER:

    34. QUESTION:
      How do I crate train my puppy?
      Whenever I put my 12 weeks old cockapoo in her crate, she whines until I take her out. My family and I are usually out of the house for about 7 hours on an average weekday so our dog needs to be crate trained. Any suggestions?

      • ANSWER:
        You just have to leave her in ther, if you are around or in plain sight, she will just cry because she knows you are there, if you put her somewhere quit, that no one is near, and just leave her in ther, she should be fine. If she cries, let her cry, sooner or later she will give up

    35. QUESTION:
      Is it unfair for a crate trained dog to be locked in the crate when there is another non crate-trained dog?
      Have a 5 year old dog who is not crate trained, just "inherited" a 7 month old crate trained puppy. Is it fair to keep him in the crate while the other roams around freely? It doesn't seem to cause any problems so far; I just wanted to see what other people thought.

      Thanks!

      • ANSWER:
        Hello let me say this, we as humans tend to assign "human" feelings to our pets. Dogs are driven by instincts mainly-their idea of being jealous is when another dog has a bone and a second dog wants that bone. What they are responding to is survival, going back to the time of them being wild and needing to fight for food to survive. Some dogs can be trained to let those survival instincts set for the moment to the side-especially dogs that have totally accepted thier human part as the leader. If we have done our training correctly the dog(s) will accept us as the leader and will listen to our commands.
        The second part of the question about one dog in a crate and the other out. There is no issue with that because the crate is being used for their safety. I have 2 dogs that can not be left in the house without supervision, and two that are and have alway been great left at the house alone. My Chihuahua had been crated when I got him from the owner, but since coming to my house has never touched anything but his toys.
        The only thing you need to be aware of is that the crated dog may need more excersicing than the dog that roams free all day. Be sure that the crate is large enough for pup to stretch out and to stand up. God Bless ReggieR

    36. QUESTION:
      Does anyone know how to crate train a puppy? or an idea of a crate training schedule?
      I am planning on crate training my puppy and I want to know how long I should keep her in there, when I should take her out, when I should play with her,etc. Please help ! An example of a schedule would be great, but if not, anything will help. By the way, she will be 8 weeks when I get her.

      • ANSWER:
        Congratulations on your new puppy :) Crate training can be a difficult process, but its definitely worth it for you and your puppy. I'll give my advice on what worked crate training my dog (he's five now, but we got him at 10 weeks old!), and then leave a link for the Human Society's information on crate training.

        First off, you'll want to make sure you have time to be home with your puppy, at least for the first few days, but if possible the first week or two. Secondly, you need to pick the correct sized crate. People frequently assume that its "cruel" to have the dog in a small crate, but reality is, the puppy should have enough room to get in, and circle around and lay down, but not enough room that she could soil one corner of the crate and sleep in the other. Some sort of bedding so she's comfortable is a must, but make sure its not something she can chew (since puppies do chew). If it is something she could possibly chew, and swallow, observe her in her crate, to prevent the risk of bowel obstructions.

        Please take into consideration, that a typical puppy can hold his/her urine for his/her age in months, plus one. So at eight weeks, two months, you're puppy can hold it for around three hours. Taking this into consideration, I'd really recommend taking her out at least every two hours to start with, more if possible.

        A normal schedule may go as follows:

        9:00am: She goes outside. If she pees or poops, you give her praise, and you can play with her outside, or inside for a while.

        10:00am - 10:05am: Crate time. She will cry, and you will feel the need to run to her. Starting off with just a few minutes of crate time, five or less, gets her used to the crate.

        10:05am - 10:45am: Tell her she's a good girl and immediately take her out. The BEST routine we've gotten into, is taking our dog out immediately after he leaves his crate. It has clicked something in his brain, so now he automatically uses the bathroom once he's out of his crate. She may not go this time, since she did just go an hour before.

        10:45-10:50: Crate time. Again, plan for tears. Afterward take her immediately outside for at least another half an hour, a walk if you can.

        Repeat this throughout the day. Whenever you feed her (2-3 times a day depending on size) take her out immediately afterward. Keep an eye on her water intake, and take her out after she drinks as well. For the first day, stick to 5-10 minutes in the crate at a time. Work your way up from there, adding 5-10 minutes each day on. Also, you can start by staying in the same room as her in her crate, but you want to pretty quickly move to another room, so she can't see you.

        It is hard, and it will take a few weeks of whining and crying to get used to it, but it makes house breaking so much easier, and now I can just say, "Frankie crate," and he goes right into his crate :) He actually enjoys sleeping in there!

        The crate IS NEVER a punishment. If she has an accident, don't yell at her and put her in the crate. The crate is a safe place, and the more you treat it like one, the more she'll want to be in there.

        Good luck!

        http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html

    37. QUESTION:
      How can I prepare my doggie for being alone?
      My little dog, Puccini, a Pom/Papillion cross has been staying at home with my daughter's bigger dog since I got Pucci as an 8 week old pup. Now my daughter and her dog are moving into their own place. Both dogs are crate trained, but spend alone hours in separate crates in the same room. They are both really good at going into the crates and staying clean in them while we are at work. My little guy is very dependent on the bigger dog; he is very confident when the bigger dog is with him, but shy and quiet when I take him out on his own. Can anyone give me some tips on how to prepare him for life as a single dog?

      • ANSWER:
        My suggestion is to get another little dog. There are plenty of little dogs that are in shelter right now that are lonely and need homes. Your dog is lonely, too, so adopting (and saving a life) seems like a great thing to do in your situation.
        A lot of little adult dogs in shelters are already house trained, so you don't have to worry much about training another dog.
        You should start looking here: http://www.petfinder.com/

    38. QUESTION:
      When is it too late for a large breed dog to get Obedience Classes?
      Does anyone know? I was also wondering if it would be too late for a large breed dog to be crate trained at about 1 year and a half years old.

      • ANSWER:
        It's never too late for training.

        For the older dog, you have the advantage of not having the puppy adolescence to deal with. However, you do have a dog that can be more "set in their ways", and will need a little more time to do things like you want, not what they want. This being said, he can be trained.

        Same goes for crate training. Never use the crate for punishment, and when you put him in the crate, give him a special treat and a favorite toy or bone. May the crate a "comfort zone" for the dog, a place he can go that no one will bother him and a place he can get away from everyone and everything when he wants to. When he's not locked in the crate, leave the door open so he can go in and out freely.

        It may take a little longer than a puppy, but there is always a way to train any dog, regardless of age.

    39. QUESTION:
      How to continue to crate train my puppy?
      My dog is approximately 5 months old. She has never had any issues with crate training until about a month ago. She wouldn't use restroom in the crate, and then suddenly she has had issues with going in the crate, pee more than anything, but she does do both. I take her out at the same times as before, but she continues to do this, and gets it on herself. Any advice?

      • ANSWER:
        I think your dog needs more attention. If all you are doing is letting her out of the cage to go to the bathroom or eat she is probably doing this because she is bored and knows you will give her attention more if she has accidents in her cage. If you are home all day long or majority of the day your dog doesn't need to be in the cage, but mostly with you, playing, walking, laying on the floor watching a movie, ect. Your dog is not a baby anymore but more or less at the toddler age. Any toddler who is bored will get into things or act up or out for attention. Taking her outside to do her business and feeding her even though it is a schedule it isn't enough for your puppy. She is needing more and she is trying to tell you this. If you can try to add more time in between caging her engaging in fun and games, cuddling, and walking. And when you do put her in her cage put toys, kongs filled with treats or peanut butter, stuffed animals, and a blanket or shirt that has your smell on it.

        If you already do do this! Call and make a appointment with your vet. If you can have her urinate on something that you can save her urine (like a plastic garbage bag) so you can take it to the vet when you go and have it tested. She may have a infection in her bladder or urinary tract and so she will have more urges to feel like she has to go to the bathroom more often. She also could just have a weak bladder and you will just have to up the times you take her out to the potty. Animals and humans need to go to the bathroom everytime you have the urge. If you don't and hold it it can weaken the bladder and cause spoutaneous peeing that you can't control. But please check with you vet on what he think is the best solution for you puppy. Only they know best!!!

    40. QUESTION:
      How exactly do you crate train a puppy?
      I know you leave them in a crate with their bed and all that stuff but what do you do when its time for it to eat? And when crate training a dog can you train it to pee on a newspaper or does it have to be outside? I have a 8 week old pomeranian, Ive tried looking online on how to crate train it but they made everything sound so difficult.. So how exactly do you do it? Thank you ! =)

      • ANSWER:
        http://www.guba.com/watch/3000122925
        http://petcare.suite101.com/article.cfm/crate_training_your_new_puppy
        http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/cratetraining.htm

        The biggest thing with Crate training is no matter how much your puppy whines, never let it out unless it's calm and quiet. (it took me a week to crate train our dog, it was hard, but worth it)

    41. QUESTION:
      What are the benefits of crate training?
      i see it on a lot of websites, but they dont say why crate training should be used. Isnt it cruel to keep a dog locked in a cage?

      • ANSWER:
        At some point in your dog’s life, it may be
        necessary to use a crate when you are traveling with your pet or when your dog is recuperating from an injury. Such potentially traumatic situations will be much less stressful if your dog is already familiar with and comfortable in a crate.

    42. QUESTION:
      what is the best way to crate train a dog?
      my wife and i are thinking about adopting a dog and the guy at the shelter asked me about crate training. i never crate trained any of my dogs when i was a kid, so i was clueless about how to do it. we are looking at a beagle/lab mix.

      • ANSWER:
        http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html

        Gives you everything you need to know. And THANK YOU for rescuing!!!!

    43. QUESTION:
      How to stop my dog from eating the window?
      We have a shelter dog that was never crate trained. The people who were fostering the dog warned us that we might not be able to do it because dog to won't associate the crate with a safe place. If he is in the crate, he either causes damage to himself or breaks the crate to get out.

      In the past two weeks, the dog has started eating one of our windows when we leave. The curtains and screen are shredded, the curtain rod is broken, the sill has splintered in two, the left window trim was torn off the wall, and the handle is barely hanging on. He could get splinters in his stomach or something!

      We've tried sedating him, but he throws the pill up. It doesn't matter how we feed it to him. He'll swallow the pill about 30 minutes before we leave, and when we come home the window has new damage and the pill is floating in a puddle of bile on the floor.

      What can I do?
      He's about four years old, and is fixed. He is a very lazy dog, and barely bats an eyelash when we leave. When we come home, he just wanders up to us, wags his tail, and turns around. And sometimes he doesn't even bother greeting us. I'm not sure if this is separation anxiety or not.
      He has a kong; it doesn't interest him, even if food is in it. He isn't alone during the day; we have another dog (that can't even reach the window, so I know which one is causing the damage). Out of that list of ways to tell if your dog has separation anxiety, the only item that fits is that the behavior only happens when we're gone.

      • ANSWER:
        Everyone is giving you advice for chewing problems. This is Separation Anxiety....NOT a simple chewing problem.

        I've been there...it's not fun having your house destroyed! This is a panic response to your leaving. S.A. is very difficult to treat and takes a LOT of patience and time. Rather than sedation, I would ask your vet for an anti-anxiety pill...doesn't sedate, but helps controls the anxiety - that panic feeling.

        You may also want to try a DAP collar or scent emitter. This releases calming phermones into the air for him to smell and is supposed to calm him down. They're spendy, but some say they're worth it. Others say it's a waste of money. I suppose it depends on the dog. The fosters in our group use it with mixed reviews.

        Then, I would find a temporary solution...have grandma stay with him while you're gone, bring him with you if you can, doggie daycare, etc... You can use this to help keep your house and dog safe while you're starting your treatment training program with him. (SEE LINKS below for the specifics on the treatment methods)

        Ideally, he would get a bunch of exercise before you leave for the day to get out some pent-up energy...like a long, brisk walk. That will increase your chances of success, though I know realistically, I don't even have time for breakfast before I zip-out the door in the mornings, and you may not be a morning person either.

        I'm putting some links to the exercises/treatment methods used to put a stop to the insanity of separation anxiety. The methods are too long to type here, but these sites should give you a good idea of what to do and give step-by-step instructions. We actually had a dog behaviorist come out, which, if you can afford it, I highly recommend (not a trainer - a behaviorist).

        Though it's true that many dogs need some time to get used to a crate, I've never fostered a dog with S.A. that didn't totally destroy the kennel and exhaust him/herself when put in it, so it's more than him not associating it with a "safe place". I would work on the S.A., and then try the crate training.

        The people that fostered him should have disclosed this problem to you because it is severe and one of the most difficult behavior problems to treat. If you're willing to work through it, or can change some things to make your lifestyle fit, then great!
        Your three best options are:
        1 -work through it...it could take months of long daily training sessions that may or may not be successful,
        2 - change your lifestyle so that someone is always home with him or send him to doggie daycare during the day,
        3 - return him to the rescue group where you adopted him.

        In response: That's what our foster dog did....he was totally cool all the time....didn't seem upset when we left or anything...that's why I was totally shocked when I came home one day and he had tried to eat his way through the front door!

        SEE THE LINKS BELOW FOR THE SPECIFIC METHODS

    44. QUESTION:
      What is an example of a puppy crate training schedule?
      Looking for what people type of schedule dog owners have kept for crate training their dogs (please include times for meals, play, overnight sleep etc.) Thanks for any helpful information.

      I have a 10 week old siberian husky

      • ANSWER:

    45. QUESTION:
      What are your opinions on crate training?
      My dog is not crated, but he does not have any issues with chewing or going to the bathroom inside, so he has free roam. I just wanted to see what other dog owners' opinions are on the subject of crate training.
      No, I'm not planning on crating mine at all. I personally do not like the idea. Just wanted to see what other people in the community thought about it!

      • ANSWER:
        I wouldn't train a pup without it, but remember, it is supposed to be a temporary measure until you can trust your dog(s) to be at large in the house. IMO, it is not mean to be a life-long thing.

    46. QUESTION:
      Has Anyone Used the Crate Training Technique to House Break Their Dog?
      If so did it work for you?

      How long did it take you to get the results you were looking for?

      What kind of dog were you crate training?

      • ANSWER:
        yes i did use a crate to help with housebreaking ... i took her outside every 2 hours around the clock for the first four days i had her and then used the crate to reinforce good behaviour in the house when she could not be supervised ... i crated her for four hours a day, four days a week for one year ... she was housebroken in four days, one accident in 12 years ... and in her entire life the only thing she chewed inappropriately was a pet which i took away immediately and tossed a ball for her to run after ... she is a jack russell terrier ... and i did get the results because my first dog i started housebreaking with pee pads and then outdoors and it took 8 months to housebreak ...

    47. QUESTION:
      What is crate training and how does it work?
      I am getting a Great Dane puppy and have heard a lot about crate training but not sure what is entirely involved in this or its purpose, pros, cons, etc.

      Can anyone explain?

      • ANSWER:
        I used it to help potty train the Dalmatian we had because of our work schedule. It worked like a charm for her. She was not a real young puppy so she could already go 3 hours between potty breaks. She was a fast learner too.

        The dog I have now now did not have to be crate trained because I am home everyday. I do not agree with crate training for behavioral issues. Most behavioral issues(chewing, tearing up things etc) can be corrected by exercising the dogs more.

    48. QUESTION:
      What is the best method for crate training a small dog?
      I just got a new 8 week old french bulldog/ boston terrier today and I want to start crate training her tomorrow. I left her in her crate for about 30 mins. while I went to the store and She only pooped once and it was on her Puppy Pads.

      • ANSWER:
        ok crate training is east we trained my boxer when it was 2 months old(june of o8) he was born on april 11

        go out and buy training treats from pet-smart and when you get home cut them in to tiny pieces at first what you want to do is put one of the treats(cut up) in to the crate and let the dog walk in and when it comes out reward it with a big cookie keep doing this till you don't have to put a treat in for it to go in the crate. Then once it gets used to that put a treat in the crate and closed the door and open it reward the dog with lots of affection. Once she gets used to that start leaving her in for ten minutes at a time and reward her with a favorite toy. It will take a while but it will work trust me but don't leave her out cuz then she will go crazy cuz she will think you left her forever and she will destroy your house


    dogs crate training

    White Dog Crate

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1. QUESTION:
      Anyone know what this wolf movie was called?
      I remember this old movie, about sled dogs, and the movie was about this old woman who told the story of the grey wolf who saved her life. So this wolf(dog?) who lived in an abandoned ship or what not in the snow had to join a team of sled dogs , including this snooty black and white dog who hated him, and get a crate of medicine to this very sick little girl. Along the way, he meets a red-ish colored female dog who gives him a scarf for good luck. Anyone know what it's called?

      • ANSWER:
        Balto http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0112453/
        Trailer http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0112453/

    2. QUESTION:
      Why does my Westie have a strip of yellow on his back?
      I have bathed him with shampoo formulated for white dogs but it never seems to go away. He is inside 90% of the time and then rest of his fur stays pretty clean. Can someone help me?

      • ANSWER:
        This very question was raised by a pet buyer to a Westie Breeder, please read:

        From
        http://cache.search.yahoo-ht2.akadns.net/search/cache?ei=UTF-8&p=westie+dog+yellow+back+stripe&y=Search&fr=yfp-t-501&u=www.arrowheadacreswesties.com/faq.html&w=westie+dog+dogs+yellow+back+stripe&d=KO5qVpzfQu4X&icp=1&.intl=us

        Q: Do any of your Westies have the beige or yellow looking dorsal stripe down the center of the back?

        A: Some of them do and some do not. This is a perfectly acceptable trait even in the show ring. At first glance you would not even notice this. The light discolored stripe could be there for two reasons. The first reason could be because in the grooming process too much live coat has been removed. The second and more likely reason is a matter of genetic background going back to the origin of the Westie many years ago, the Carin Terrier.

        On this page we have tried to answer questions that have been asked throughout our years of breeding. These are questions you need answered prior to the decision to purchase a Westie or before the arrival of your new puppy.

        Each puppy adoption is unique, so if you do not find the answer to your specific question, please feel free to call 252-478-4246 or email us at cindy@arrowheadacreswesties.com. We will answer each question to the best of our ability.

        When you purchase an Arrowhead Acres Westie you will receive a brochure with some training, and bonding tips, a feeding schedule, also grooming and crate training advice. This brochure will answer most of the questions you will have after the arrival of your new Westie puppy. We will also be available to give advice and support.

        Q: What is the difference in limited and unlimited registration?

        A: If your puppy is purchased from Arrowhead Acres on a limited AKC registration he/she is NOT eligible to register offspring with AKC. It will also NOT be able to participate in any AKC sponsored conformation events.

        If your puppy is purchased from Arrowhead Acres on an unlimited AKC registration he/she IS eligible to register offspring with AKC. The puppy IS also eligible to compete in any AKC sponsored conformation events.

        Basically, for a person or family wanting a beautiful, healthy, fun, companion the limited AKC registration is what you need. If you are interested in conformation, showing, or breeding you will need an unlimited AKC registration.

        We reserve the right to make the final decision rather to sale our babies on limited or unlimited AKC registration.

        Q: Are Westies good with children?

        A: A Westie can be your child’s best friend. Westies are a hardy, confident breed and can physically handle a certain amount of horseplay. They love to chase a ball and play tug of war. They can also play the role of a baby doll. They will make an excellent bed partner for your child, if this is acceptable in your home.

        It will take a certain amount of discipline, training and supervision for the child and the puppy in the beginning. Never leave a child under five years old alone with a young puppy. If you plan on having children in the lifetime of your puppy you will need to acquaint your puppy with children while he/she is under one year old. The puppy will need to spend ample time socializing with children to be receptive and enjoy a new member of his/her family later in its life. A Westie that is mature and NEVER been around small children may not think kindly of a new creature in his space. But even a grown, mature Westie that has been taught his role and some manners will at least tolerate a new addition to the family.

        Over the years we have heard many, many happy stories of a child and their Westie being inseparable. If any issues of discipline or any problems arise please, please call or email us.

        2-2

        2-4
        2-6

        2-1
        2-7

        2-9
        2-6

        2-3
        2-8

        Q: Do Westies have genetic or congenital defects that are common to the breed? If so have any of these defects made themselves present in your bloodlines?

        A: Genetic or congenital defects are relatively few in Westies. The Westie has been left for the most part in its natural, original state. Up to this point there has not been a lot of indiscriminate breeding nor has man made any demands for big changes in their conformation or coats. Only the white coat color was used in the development of the Westie and it is the result of a dominant gene.

        There are only four or five serious or possibly lethal, genetic defects that can be found on occasion in a Westie and in our almost seventeen years of breeding not one has presented itself in our bloodlines. We have had only five or six puppies over the years that have gone to their new homes and a congenital problem has arisen. At these times we have run all test and exhausted all possibilities of the defect being genetic. We offer a very extensive guarantee to cover any congenital or genetic problems should they arise.

        Q: Do you recommend the use of a crate for house training? If so what size and type?

        A: We strongly recommend the use of a crate for house training. The crate is also a great tool to protect your puppy and your home.

        We recommend the airline approved plastic crates. This type crate will make your puppy feel more secure and he /she will be free from drafts more than in a wire cage. The size of the crate is very important. A dog will not soil where he has to lie down if at all possible. It needs to be just large enough for an adult Westie to stand up and turn around in comfortably. The approximate measurements should be 17”wide by 25”deep by 16” tall.

        Q: Is there a history of skin allergies in your Westies? If my Westie does develop allergies do you have any advice?

        Click here for the answer.

        Q: Are Westies hypoallergenic or do they shed?

        A: The AMA reports the Westies have relatively low dander and shed almost none (ranked # 7) and in most cases is acceptable for individuals with asthma or allergies.

        Q: Do you have champions in your bloodlines?

        A: We have been breeding Westies for almost seventeen years and in the beginning there was a reasonable amount of champions in the bloodlines. After seventeen years all the champions are off of the pedigrees. But we have dogs that could more than qualify for the show ring and we have placed several puppies over the years in successful show homes. We feel we do not have to have dogs with the title of champion to raise champions. Our main goal is to raise healthy, happy and good-tempered companions.

        Q: Do you show your Westies?

        A: In our years of successfully showing horses we have found that any type of conformation showing is very political. Showing is not always about the horse, or the dog in this case, but who is at the end of the lead so we have never had the desire to show our dogs. We have sold several puppies to show homes over the years. In recent months (2007) we have considered placing one of our puppies with a local handler to try our hand at this competive sport.

        Q: What kind of food do you feed? If the kind of food you feed is not available to me what do you recommend?

        A: Our puppies are on Pro Pac Performance Puppy from the time they are three weeks old. You will be sent home with enough of this food to last four or five days. If you are unable to find this food we recommend Science Diet, Iams or Ukanuba puppy food.

        Q: Do Westies make a good lap dog?

        A: For some Westies in your lap will be their favorite spot. While other Westies want to be close to you but not necessarily always in your lap. These loving traits along with the confident traits of your beloved companion allow them to be an ever present member of your family while also being content with your absence during your busy days.
        10-1

        Q: Do Westies like to travel, hike, swim, ride on boats, ride on a bike or motorcycle?

        A: Westies like to share in your activities. They are confident and hardy and if introduced to any activity correctly and safely they are sure to enjoy it as long as it is shared with you.
        11-1

        11-2

        11-4
        11-3

        Q: What age should a puppy be when it goes to its new home?

        A: Breeders and vets differ in their opinion as to what is the best age for a puppy to go home to its new family.

        When we started breeding Westies in 1992 it was typical to send puppies home at six weeks. We have had great success with our babies leaving at six weeks. Still today most of our puppies go to their families at six weeks. Over the years as breeders and vets learned more about the psychological aspect of a puppy some breeders went to eight weeks. My mom bred Maltase for fifteen years. Because the Maltese were a fragile breed and so small, she kept her babies until eight weeks and sometimes ten or twelve weeks if they were extra tiny. Westies are a very stout, hardy breed. Our babies here at Arrowhead Acres have dry kibble available to them at three weeks of age so at six weeks they are eating well and for the most part going outside to potty.

        There are advantages and disadvantages to taking a puppy home at six or eight weeks. Two of the advantages to the six-week age are bonding and dominance. In our opinion from six to seven weeks is a terrific bonding period. At this age you can also establish a dominance role easily. Instead of finding his position in “a pack of dogs” he will find a place in your family. The advantage to eight weeks is the transition does seem a little easier on the puppy and there seems to be less crying and separation anxiety. However, all of our puppies are well socialized. If they remain here with us at Arrowhead Acres until they are ten or twelve weeks the transition into your home will still be successful.

        We do not leave the pups with their mamas over six weeks because most of our mamas are thirteen to seventeen lbs. and a six-week-old litter of four or five puppies is just to hard o

    3. QUESTION:
      Does anyone have any suggestions on potty training a toy terrier dog?
      I recently adopted a little white toy dog he looks like a terrier mix, I'm unsure of his age but I want to do my best to house break him, since I know toy dogs are usually very hard to train. Does anyone have any suggestions?

      • ANSWER:
        takes two weeks of 24/7 training to get a good start
        take out on leash, tell potty
        let off leash, play with for 30 minutes in fenced yard. tell poop
        leash in house and watch take out
        crate when you can't watch
        get up at night and take out every 2-3 hours

    4. QUESTION:
      how do i get my dogs fur white again ?
      i just got my dog about 2 months ago. She is a natural white dog , but in the process of crate training her , she was still having accidents and it seems to turn her paws and butt a yellow color, and now that she is trained , i want to get her white & staying white!! she gets bathed every 2 weeks , so what some stuff i could do ?

      • ANSWER:
        Make a soupy paste of baking soda and vinegar. Apply and let set. Rinse thoroughly. It might not rid the fur of all the stains but with continued use, it should work. This is also a good way to rid a dog of nasty odors such as rolling in squirrel feces.

    5. QUESTION:
      What is a good size Dog Crate for a Great White Pyrenees?
      The dog is full grown by the way.
      The biggest ones I can find is 54.

      • ANSWER:
        I have a crate for dogs up to 80 pounds I got at Wal Mart try going there or pet smart and asking employees if they have anything bigger. The dog must be able to turn around and stand comfortably without touching the crate, maybe a x large crate from pet smart's sight will help:

        http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4056280&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo

    6. QUESTION:
      How do I get my dog to leave my cat alone for a little while?
      So every time my cat is in the room, my dog freaks and won't leave her alone. She's practically obsessed with the cat and she starts to annoy her.

      • ANSWER:
        Unless your cat is very young, or the dog is very large, the cat will soon tire of the annoyance and TEACH the dog to leave her alone. She'll hiss at the dog first, and it that doesn't scare her off, she'll scratch her...probably on her nose! LET IT HAPPEN.......The dog will then know that the cat is "boss", and be put in her "place".

        If the cat is too laid back to teach the dog some "manners", then you can use a spray of water ( with white vinegar, if necessary ... to make the POINT...won't her her, even if it gets into her eyes a little..just stings ).......and tell the dog........." NO CAT ". This is how my daughter has taught her dogs to leave her cats alone......IF the nose scratch didn't work!

        You can try "time out" by putting the dog in a crate, or confining her in some other way when she doesn't mind. Dogs are very social, and being put in "time out" will teach them that they've misbehaved.

        Whichever method you choose ( or all of them )......Good luck. Hope this helps.......

    7. QUESTION:
      how to get rid of stains on a white dog?
      I left my dog in his crate and he either vomited or pooped in the crate and stepped/laid down in it. I thought giving him a bath would take out the stains (as well as clean his fur, of course), but they're still there. His fur is almost all white, but now his legs and belly are starting to look brown. Is there a shampoo that will help get rid of those stains? I don't want to have to shave him down to get it out.

      • ANSWER:
        There are whitening shampoos out there, go for the purple ones, not the blue ones.

    8. QUESTION:
      What should I do about my misbehaved dog?
      I have a white german shepard and she has had some anxiety issues whenever we leave. I don't know what to do to help her. We have tried putting her in different parts of the house when we leave just for a short time. but she sttill gets so upset and shreds things. It's starting to worry us and put a damper on our furniture. What can we do to help her?

      • ANSWER:
        IMO, your girl has Seperation Anxiety. This topic has numerous sites you can search for on the net and find helpful suggestions.

        My own suggestion is crating and noise.

        Crating for a dog, unless you make it so, is not punishment. A crate is a dog's space, their 'bedroom'. A crate is a safe spot in the world, where nothing can harm them.

        Noise...leave a radio or the tv on when you leave to make your home as loud as it is when you are there. When you shut everything off as you leave, suddenly the house is echoing with emptiness and everyone is gone and the dog panics.

        Most dogs with SA do the damage within 15 minutes of the humans leaving the home.

        You can try 'practice' leaves. Get ready to go, as normal, but come back in 2 minutes later. Drop your keys, take off your jacket sit down.

        Also, make leave-taking as calm and uneventful as possible. Don't make an issue out of it, don't have prolonged 'goodbyes' with the dog.

        Do look into the numerous sites on SA available on the net, along with crate-training. IMO, crates have saved thousands of dogs, as when you leave the dog crated, you come home to a tidy house, let the dog out of the crate with some loving, instead of a horror-filled gasp as you enter a destruction scene that the uncrated dog created.

    9. QUESTION:
      How do I get my dog not to tear the house up when I leave or am asleep?
      I have a beautiful white lab, she is very stubborn and loves to tear everything from cords to hairbrushes to trash every time I or my boyfriend is not around. I don't want to put her outside or lock her up, but she even tore up my television by chewing up the cord. What can I do to make her stop? She is only 9 months old, but she is already huge!! Please help!!!

      • ANSWER:
        Invest in a crate and put her in it when she can't be watched. This is both for your sanity and her safety. One of these days she may end up with an intestinal blockage that requires surgery. That, in itself, is NOT cheap. Why wouldn't you want to lock her up? Don't you care about her safety? Well, you should. Don't leave her outside while you aren't home either. That is another disaster waiting to happen.

    10. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to potty train a dog that is almost 2 yrs old?
      My sister in law just got a small dog from the humane society. It's a small female dog but she wants to pee in the house. What is the best way to potty train her?

      • ANSWER:
        Housetraining an Adult Dog or Rescue

        With adult dogs, just like with a puppy, you need to supervise 100 percent of the time when they are indoors, until the habit of waiting to relieve themselves until they get outside is firmly established. If you are working with an adult dog who is not used to holding their bladder or bowels, they will need time to develop bladder and bowel control.

        Supervising 100 percent of the time means that they are either in a "safe" area where they can't make a mistake, such as a crate or very small room with a baby-gate, or they are in the room with you and you are WATCHING them at all times. When a dog has a housetraining accident, it's not the dog's fault, it means the person failed in the supervision.

        Confinement of some sort is necessary to keep the dog from making mistakes which will form the wrong habits on housebreaking. A crate is the size of a dog's bed, and dogs have a natural instinct to keep the bed clean. The crate is only to be used when no one can watch the dog.

        Since dogs sleep 14 hours a day, a crate is a humane and reasonable way for many people to housebreak a dog, with the dog merely sleeping most of the time he is in the crate. Baby gates can be effective, but are not as secure as crates.

        It's really a great service to a dog to teach him to rest calmly in a crate, even if you only use it for training and then put it away in the closet to save for emergencies. Dogs have to rest in crates when they are in for veterinary care, and other situations. If at some future time in his life the dog develops separation anxiety (where dogs may tear up the house due to feeling stressed), the ability to rest in a crate could save him in his home. And in case of travel and disasters, sometimes the only dogs who are able to stay with their owners are the dogs who can handle being in a crate. For an older dog, it's generally best to teach the crate a little at a time.

        So, housetraining any dog of any age requires diligence, commitment, patience and good-nature from the owner. No punishment - punishment can cause huge problems. If you catch a dog in the act, you just rush the dog outside, with the goal of getting it to finish there so you can praise it for doing right. No time to be mad.

        When the dog goes outside during housetraining, you need to go with the dog, every time, so you can praise at the right moment. This is a lot of work, too. But in the process, you get the dogs understanding what you want, and you figure out their schedule. Because you were there, you know whether they have relieved their bowels or bladder or both, and when.

        Soon, you know how many times a day they need to do each of those functions. Dogs are not all the same about these needs, and the frequency also changes with age, illness, changes in diet, and changes in schedule - your schedule as well as the dogs' schedule.

        Make sure all spots in the house where the dog might have relieved himself have been cleaned in the right manner to tell his keen sense of smell and doggy instincts that the house is not a bathroom. If you don't do this, the scent he can smell - even though you can't smell it - will draw him back to use the spot again. White vinegar will work only on a fresh spot that is still wet, and then the vinegar must be really saturated down through carpet and pad - it will smell strongly of vinegar for a day or so. Bacterial enzyme odor eliminator products (such as Nature's Miracle or Outright Pet Odor Eliminator) will work either on a fresh spot or on a spot that was not treated promptly. Deodorants and disinfectants normally used for cleaning don't remove this special scent that lures dogs to use the spot again. And perhaps the worst thing to use is ammonia, which actually signals the dog's nose that this is the spot!

        Never punish your dog for a housebreaking mistake. He won't understand, and the punishment can create new problems. Instead, keep him in the room with you at all times when he is not in his special confinement area. If you see him start to have an accident, just say "No, Outside" as you rush out the door with him. Your goal is to get him to finish outside so you can praise him. Teach him the word "Outside" for going out there, and "Better Go Now" or some other phrase for actually relieving himself--these words are taught just by saying them at the right times, until he catches on to what they mean. This helps communication, and thus of course also helps training.

        If the dog makes a mistake when you weren't watching him, oops, that was your mistake, not his. He is just a dog, and has no idea why we are upset when he relieves himself in the house. But most dogs can learn, if you are consistent, and help him avoid mistakes by being there for him.

    11. QUESTION:
      How do you remove lipstick stains from a dog's coat?
      My husband and I have two pure white american bulldogs. They managed to get my makeup bag off the counter rip it open and chew up everything inside. In the process of chewing it all up they got red lipstick everywhere including themselves. It looks like they rolled in it more than once. I'm wondering what I can use on them to get all of the red coloring off of their coats?

      • ANSWER:
        I had a white american bulldog that did that. It was an owner give up and their final straw they were putting him to sleep. They brought him to me and he looked like rainbow bright threw up on him. We used dawn but he was still tinted. It was a teenagers make up so we had all kinds of pretty colors.

        FYI : He was a great dog in a crate once we got him in. He was actually the first my daughter drew blood for the Heartworm test without someone else holding the dog.

    12. QUESTION:
      How do I teach my dog to stop growling and barking?
      My dog is a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and she is one year old. When she wants something like a treat she will growl and bark at me. I don't give it to her but she does it anyway. Also she barks and growls a lot when she eats. I think it is because she is afraid some thing is going to eat her food. Also she growls back at me when i tell her "no" to be quiet.

      • ANSWER:
        No foot stomping; no spray bottles, no yelling

        Caution: If a dog has bitten or displays aggressive behavior, a trained behaviorist should be used. Do NOT use any trainer or behaviorist who advocates punishing after the fact. No alpha rolling, yanking, scolding etc.. for resource guarders nor any .

        As with many dog issues, dogs should be desensitized and counter conditioned. While working with the dog make sure he/she stays below threshold.

        Dogs can guard resources from other dogs and/or humans. Dogs can guard food, toys, space, etc..High values items are sometimes more guarded that other items i.e. baked chicken might be guarded but kibble might not be. A squeaky toy might be guarded, but a tennis ball might not be.

        Guarding food (often referred to as food aggression), although not acceptable in homes, is quite natural for dogs. Imagine a wild dog, feral dog, wolf, coyote, etc.. who did not guard his/her food from others. That canid probably would not live very long, and not pass on his passive genes.

        Although resource guarding is natural, pet parents can work to change this behavior through desensitization and counter conditioning – not punishing after the dog growls. Fighting aggression with aggression will cause more problems.

        Many pet parents miss the first subtle signs of resource guarding. Dogs usually display various signals long before the first snarl, snap, growl or bite.

        Watch for subtle signs of resource guarding behavior. Often, dogs give subtle signals long before they snap, snarl, growl or bite. In the case of food guarding, a dog might freeze while eating or might start eating faster. Other signs to look out for:
        Whites of the eyes showing
        Tight lips
        Hackles up

        How NOT to fix resource guarding
        As already mentioned, do not punish or scold the behavior. Additionally,
        Do not play with the dog’s food when he is eating, do not pet the dog when eating or playing with a toy, do not take away the dog’s food or or toy. Do not physically push or take a dog off a bed or sofa.

        Many pet parents play with thier dog’s kibble while they eat in order to get the dogs used to having humans take their food. While it is wise to practice prevention, bothering the dog while eating is not the way to practice this. This technique might even crate a resource guarder where you didn’t have one before.

        Management
        While working on a program of desensitization and counter conditioning, pet parents should manage the environment to try to keep the dog from guarding:
        Do not go around the dog when he/she is eating
        If the dog only guards certain high value food items, then don’t provide those items i.e. raw hide chews
        If the dog only guards certain toys, then either don’t go around the dog when he/she has those toys or don’t provide those toys.
        If the dog only guards from other dogs, then keep the dogs separated when feeding or when playing with toys.

        Remedies

        see link below for more info

    13. QUESTION:
      My dog is afraid of Fireworks and the 4th of July celebration is coming up?
      We wont be at the house. My dog is terribly afraid of them, and usually runs by our side and lays down by us at even the slightest pop. Is there anything I can do to make the day a bit less traumatic for him?

      • ANSWER:
        Are you going to be home with him or are you leaving him alone?

        If you're home, then just being there should help him a lot. Turn on the TV (not to a station playing the fireworks, of course) to help drown out the noise. Speak to him reassuringly. Keep all the windows and doors closed. Give him lots of cuddles. But don't act anxious about how he'll react... he'll pick up your anxiety and get more wound up. Just relax and show him that you're not worried.

        If you're going out for the night, turn on the TV or create other white noise to muffle the fireworks. Put him in a smaller room or some place he feels safe. Cushion any areas if you think he might run around frantically and give him a place he can hide and feel safe (like his crate if he has one).

        Obviously don't take him outside.

        Here are some more tips:
        http://www.petconnection.com/blog/2009/06/30/make-plans-now-for-a-fear-free-fourth-for-your-pet/
        http://petknows.com/2008/06/27/july-4th-fireworks-pets/

    14. QUESTION:
      How do I get my dog to stop barking in the early morning?
      Every morning between 6-7, my dog barks nonstop and its really beginning to annoy everyone. I don't know why he does this and why he has to choose so early in the morning. I'll bang on the window and he'll stop for a few minutes, just to start up again. Any advice?

      • ANSWER:
        Where is your dog? If he is outside some sort of stimulation may be causing him to bark, if he sees someone or something he finds threatening or just interesting he may be trying to communicate that to you. If outside I suggest bringing him in the house and putting him in a crate with some sound playing (the tv, white noise, or some music) this way he doesn't hear distracting sound which may be triggering the behavior. If he is inside but in another room bring him into your room so you can give a 'No' every time he does it. Of course there are he options of bark collars either one with a shock or the citronella ones but I would only do this after trying to modify the behavior itself, but to do this you would have to figure out what the trigger is. It is more work, but it is never wise to take the easy way out with dogs.

    15. QUESTION:
      How do you remove dog pee odor from carpet?
      We've had our since she was a puppy and shes now 7 months. We keep her in a crate when we're gone because shes pretty destructive. We recently noticed that the crate has a crack in the plastic and the urine has been leaking into the carpet for the past 5 months. When we moved the crate the smell was horrible. I've cleaned the carpet twice, once with vinegar and baking soda. Is there anything else I can do besides getting new carpet? The carpet cleaner I used was professional grade.

      • ANSWER:
        you have to literately pour the whole bottler of white vinegar, or whatever pee eliminator product u have bought on the spot where the pee is then let it soak a bit and u have to have a vacuum that is strong enough to suction all of the product out, most vacuums are not that strong so u will have to rent one for a day.

    16. QUESTION:
      Is there any way to get a dog to sleep all night?
      My indoor dog does OK in the daytime, but won't sleep through the night. She either barks at every noise in the neighborhood, or walks around. Is there any way to get her to sleep all night?

      For what it's worth, she's a Weimaraner and they're high-strung, anyway.

      • ANSWER:
        "Should of had that dog crate trained right from the start...wouldn't be having this problem if you had."

        Yeah, that's crap. I have never once crate trained any of my dogs, and they sleep through the night just fine.

        Crate training should be used for those individuals who work during the daytime; time during which they are unable to let the dog outside to do its business. My dogs (all four of them) were potty-trained first, and do fine in their crates for HOURS - because they learned to ONLY do their business OUTSIDE. This is NO solution to this question. If you can't say something valuable, don't say anything at all.

        Your dog's breed is known for being high-strung, high-energy dogs. I'd recommend doing something to wear the dog out before putting it in a room at night. This includes long walks, maybe fetch, etc. - anything that gets the dog active so it runs its energy out.

        Furthermore, if your dog is in a crate during the day, all that energy from in the crate is stored up and needs to vent somehow. If you take it out of the crate and right into the bedroom, it hasn't had enough time to run its energy out. The dog probably sleeps during the day - and that means the energy it gains while resting is all stored up with the energy it gets from its food.

        I'd recommend taking the time to work the dog - have it run and play. Provide it (mentally AND physically) stimulating toys that it can play with.

        No amount of toys at night are going to be enough to keep a dog one hundred percent calm or quiet at night if it has a large amount of energy. But if you wear the dog out prior to going to bed, and provide some toys, the dog's energy will have already been depleted and whatever energy it still has can be exerted through playing with those toys.

        Sometimes, if a dog is bored, it'll bark to hear itself. And, like children, no matter how many toys you give the child, if its bored of those toys or has too much energy, they won't sit still. Dogs' attention spans are pretty short.

        If your dog is actually a PUPPY, you may have to deal with this a little longer. This is especially true for a puppy of an already high-strung breed. A puppy already needs to be worn out to go to sleep, and you'll have to do DOUBLE the work for a puppy of an already-energetic breed.

        I'd recommend if, you feel you don't have the time, MAKING the time. If you have an hour, instead of doing something semi-active for an hour (like a walk), for a puppy play fetch or have them chase a laser light; for a dog, go for a run, play fetch, go swimming, or play frisbee.

        If you feel you have worn the dog out prior to trying to go to bed, and the dog still barks, consider putting a fan on the ground, or investing in one of those nighttime noise-makers that feature "White Noise." These will block out the various sounds in your neighborhood. Remember, your dog can hear things you cannot - so the cat that tips a garbage can over at the end of the block has stimulated your dog because it can hear it.

        Now, to focus more on the dog's specific breed. Weimaraners were initially used for hunting dogs - thus, they have a TON of energy. When you purchased or rescued this dog, you should already have researched the breed to understand the dog's particular needs. I'm not going to say you did not, but I'm trying to help you understand.

        To quote:
        "Weimaraners are fast and powerful dogs, but are also suitable home animals given appropriate training & exercise."

        Have you taken your dog to obedience classes? Or tried for the AKC's Canine Good Citizen? They may help you. Again, exercise to wear them out is key.

        To quote:
        "Weimaraners are very protective of their family and can be very territorial. They can be aloof to strangers, and must be thoroughly socialized when young to prevent aggression."

        Your dog is doing its instinct in barking. It is ingrained in the dog to bark at noises, to alert you of approaching danger, and to alert whatever is making the noise that s/he is there, and she's willing to do whatever it takes.

        If your dog is an adult dog, consider investing in a PetSmart socialization class - these are for adult dogs, too. This way, the dog is not so leery of ALL noises, as it realizes not everything is a threat. If your dog is a puppy, please try to socialize it as best as possible. Take the dog to the dog park, to puppy group socials, to classes - take the dog anywhere you can where other people will be. Make sure children are there, other dogs are there, and people of every age, gender, size, etc.

        "From adolescence, a Weimaraner requires extensive exercise in keeping with an energetic hunting dog breed and prized for their physical endurance and stamina. No walk is too far, and they will appreciate games and play in addition. An active owner is more likely to provide the vigorous exercising, games, or running that this breed absolutely requires. Weimaraners are high-strung and often wear out their owners, requiring appropriate training to learn how to calm them and to help them learn to control their behavior. Owners need patience and consistent, firm (yet kind) training, as this breed is particularly rambunctious during the first year and a half of its life."

        Please read this closely, and try to assess how you are accomodating your dog's needs. Make the changes - go to the Weimaraner Club site, and see if they have any listings for trainers. They may have some more concrete advice for you.

        "Like many breeds, untrained and unconfined young dogs often create their own fun when left alone, such as chewing house quarters and furniture. Thus, many that are abandoned have behavioural issues as a result of isolation and inferior exercise."

        They will CREATE THEIR OWN FUN.

        The URL for the Weimaraner Club is in the SOURCE list. Please check this site out!

        Don't blame the dog's breed for its energy. Blame yourself for not providing the dog what it needs to release that energy.

        On a side note: You may want to try, "Rescue Remedy," in SMALL DOSES if, even after extensive exercise, your dog is still restless. It's a slight depressant. Do NOT rely on this. What it does is make the dog calm down, kind of sleepy, and not as barky. We have used this on our bichon-maltese (the yappiest little mutt in the world) to calm him down. It works like a charm.

        I'm sorry if I seem critical. I hope I helped and didn't come across as too... Well. Witchy with a B. Good luck, honey!

    17. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to house train a dog?
      I found a dog and the house pads aren't working!

      • ANSWER:
        Do not leave her unattended, watch her all the time. Crate her if you cannot watch her, but don't leave her so long in the crate that she has accidents in there.

        If she does have an accident in the house, clean it right away with Nature's Miracle or another enzymatic cleaner. If you can't afford that then use white vinegar and hot water.

        Put her on a regular schedule - if she eats, drinks, plays, and sleeps at regular times then she will pee and poop at regular times. Take her out after she eats, drinks, sleeps or plays, and ever 30-60 minutes in between, depending on her age.

        When you take her out, put her on leash and go to the place you want her to potty and say "go potty" or "hurry up", or something like that. Wait for her to go, and when she does give her lots of praise and treats.

        Never, NEVER punish a dog for having an accident. Patience and consistent training is the key.

    18. QUESTION:
      How can i keep my dog in the house at night knowing she wont poop in the house?
      How can i keep my dog in the house at night knowing she wont poop in the house? i put her in the backyard with my other dogs at night but i don't want to cause she's a house trained dog and i don't want her to get fleas when she comes in?
      my dog was trianed to go outside by previouas owners
      previous*

      • ANSWER:
        Crate training is an excellent way to keep your carpet poop free. Buy a crate (I prefer wire crates) make sure it is large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in. Simply put the dog in the crate at night. The first few days to weeks the dog may cry and bark a lot, it is VERY important that you do not let the dog out when he's doing this. It will teach him that if he barks/crys long enough, you will give in and let him out. Ignore him. I find putting the crate in the bathroom with the bath fan on helps. The white noise of the fan helps them fall asleep faster.

    19. QUESTION:
      How do I stop my 1 year old dog from peeing out the side of crate during the day when he can hold it at night?
      We walk him in the morning and let him out right before leaving for work, but when we come home he his lifted his leg and peed out of the side of the crate onto the floor next to it. We always take him for a good long walk right when we get home too, but alas nothing seems to work. He is 1 and can hold it for the time we are gone. How do we break him of this bad habit?

      • ANSWER:
        First: how long are you away? Just because your dog can hold his urine for 8-10 hrs during the night doesn't mean he can hold it as long during the day. YOU probably don't get up to use the bathroom during the night, but how many times do you need to go during the day? Same principal.

        Does puppy have water in his crate? Of course.
        [he'd better] During daylight he drinks more than he does at night - so puppy probably is trying his best to cope with his increased fluid intake vs lack of access to his back yard.

        You don't mention if you got the dog as a puppy or if he was older. If you started him out in the crate as a puppy, have you increased the size of his crate in proportion to his size?
        If you got him as an older dog, did his previous owner stay home with him all day? He sounds very upset at being left home alone for a long period of time.

        Try putting some of your old clothes in the crate, (never shoes or slippers) and keep a radio or TV on to keep puppy happy. Try giving him a large stuffed animal-but always remove the eyes first as most dogs will chew out the eyes as soon as they can. Cut them out then sew up the holes with waxed dental floss (which also can be used to sew up lots of other things) Mine always have their favorite stuffed toys which I can't get away from them awake or asleep. One uses his big white bear as a pillow :)

        Use the weekends and holidays to train puppy to use the crate during the daytime hours.

        Can you arrange to let him out during the day?
        Did the vet check him for a urinary problem?
        You can also try recording your voice to play back or try calling home and leaving the answering machine near the cage so puppy can hear your voice and feel more secure. I've even known people who set things up to let them talk to their dogs while they're away. I think Radio Shack or some other gizmo company can help set this up.

        here's some extra free advice:
        If you are letting your dog out in your yard and don't want brown spots and dog flops all over your yard, start taking your dog to the same small area in your yard every day.
        Everytime your dog urinates or has a BM, praise him in a higher pitched happy-voice 'Good go potty!' or any similar phrase . Repeat this phrase once or twice while they finish. Pat your dog and rub them as soon as they go in that spot to reinforce your approval(Try to keep your dog in that spot until they do their business. If the dog doesn't go within a few minutes, take them back in the house, wait five minutes, and try again).
        If the dog goes anywhere else , don't praise and don't pat. This way the dog quickly learns you aren't happy,and dogs like happy owners.
        In a very short time the dog will immediately head for that chosen spot, do their thing, and then romp back to you. No more having to pick up a whole yard or water all the little spots daily until the grass recovers. Plus, you won't risk yourself or family accidently stepping in dog flops.

        NEVER strike your dog! This is not the way to treat any animal - people or human. I've taught my dogs to do everything from wiping their muzzles on towels after they drink (no more wet floors) to rinsing their paws after coming home from a muddy romp - and never laid a hand or raised my voice to one. EVERY dog is a good dog - I've found most supposed 'bad' dogs have either a lazy or uneducated owner - or occasionally a downright mean one.

        My unbreakable rule: if your day is too busy to work a dog's ongoing training and needs [ie. performance education for you and your dog, grooming, vet visits, etc., skip having a dog.
        Living in a crate is not healthy for the dog, and it will drastically shorten its life. He's useless for protection if locked up, and is miserable being unable to interact with his environment.

        How about a nice kitty? Cats don't care about being left alone, in fact, they almost insist on it.

    20. QUESTION:
      What is the price of pomeranian puppy male white in color and labrador fone color male puppy in new Delhi?
      Hi m looking for a white small pomeranian puppy male or can be another breed for labrador only fone in color male small puppy. i m student staying alone for studies i want a puppy to whome i can talk to and enjoy with i will take care of him very well. if anyone giving it for adoption or free den please tell me.

      • ANSWER:
        There is NO SUCH thing as FONE color in Labradors. They come in Yellow, Chocolate or Black. Dogs are bred to be a standard size. Labs are not small dogs and compared to Pomeranian, are not small puppies. (It is unlikely a Lab puppy will still be small enough at 8 weeks) to fly crated in the cabin of a plane.

    21. QUESTION:
      How to make my room feel like?
      an apartment? I am a sophomore in college and I still have to live at home. I would like to make my fairly small room feel somewhat adult and like I have my own space. The furniture I have is a futon bed, a toybox, nightstand, dresser, bookshelf, fish tank, and large dog crate. Everything must stay. Any tips.

      • ANSWER:
        ideas here might help
        http://teensthemes.com/black-and-white-contemporary-bedrooms.html

    22. QUESTION:
      What would you do if your dog nipped your kid?
      My son crawled into the bathroom where my dog was and she nipped him really bad.I was doing dishes and I let him crawel around then he followed the dog. The dog nipped my son I did not get there in time to stop the dog.

      • ANSWER:
        Then I would teach my son to leave the dog alone. I would crate the dog when I could not supervise him and I would never, not ever, let the child near that crate. That's the dog's space and the child has no business being near it.
        I don't think you will ever be there in time to stop the dog. Dog bites occur faster than we humans can react. What you do want to watch for are the warning signs : ears pinned, showing whites of eyes, stiff, slow movements, and of course growling and showing teeth. Do not ever punish these warning signs, or you will train your dog to stop warning before striking.
        Don't let your son corner your dog as he has done. Take a class in positive training and learn as much as you can about how to manage the situation. Do not blame your dog and try to retroactively punish him!
        http://www.doggonesafe.com/clicker%20training.htm

    23. QUESTION:
      Are bully sticks safe for my dog in crate?
      I am wondering if it would be safe to give my dog a bully stick when I leave him alone in his crate when I have to leave the house. He has a nylabone in there too but he doesn't really like it. Any ideas?
      Also, he doesn't like Kongs...so any tips? Thanks.

      • ANSWER:
        raw hide bones, dogs love those and they are safe and keep them occupied. white ones because red ones stain carpet

    24. QUESTION:
      How can you make a dog quit peeing on the carpet?
      My dog is 2 years old and will pee on the carpet about every other day or so I don't ever catch her but it is when we're home. She's crated during the day so maybe it's at night. And it's never the same spot twice so cleaning doesn't help.

      • ANSWER:
        It would be helpful to know what breed she is and if the problem started recently or has happened her entire life to give a more specific recommendation...
        First rule out a medical problem. Sometimes spayed females develop incontinence problems and need hormone replacement medication.
        Behavior modification ideas... To truly break the cycle, you will need to deny her ANY opportunity to wander off and pee anywhere in the house. Since you are already crating her when you are gone you have a big advantage. Kudos to you for understanding the necessity of 'denning instinct' in dogs. Dogs naturally don't want to 'soil' their living/playing areas, and crating when unsupervised teaches them bladder control, keeps younger dogs out of trouble, and allows the balancing act of praising when you take her outside. Dogs sleep up to 20 hours a day, so try not to feel bad about crating her more often. Depending on her breed & size, it can take a long time for dogs to learn that the whole house is actually their den. Most dogs will keep their main areas clean but are perfectly willing to wander to a far room to eliminate... to them, they are still following the denning instict of cleanliness.
        When she is crated, move the crate every few days to a new room, especially placing it near old peed-on areas. You can also put food/water bowls near frequently soiled areas to discourage returning to that spot.
        Basically, it will come down to confining her ANY time you are unable to supervise her activities for a while. One method is called 'umbilical training' in which you set up a house rule (its not forever, but definitely for 2-3 weeks) that she is either crated, outside, or tied to you by a leash so that there is NO opportunity to wander off and 'go'. Feed her on a shedule if not doing so already. Clean all soiled areas with a quality enzyme action cleaner. Bleach, lysol, etc. do not destroy odor sources.
        Just like people, dogs usually need to pee when they wake up, so if nighttime is the most likely time, you will honestly need to confine her then too. As long as she gets half an hour daily of aerobic activity she will adjust to more crate time. Spend some time with her in every room in the house.
        One very, very important concept is to understand how dogs think... it is NEVER effective to show/punish a dog for a mess it made even five seconds after they did it. Dogs can not put 'abstract ideas' together. This means that they simply can not associate the ACT of peeing with getting in trouble for it later. To punish after-the-fact is cruel and dogs think owners who do so as vicious and unpredictably aggressive masters. Or worse, calling a dog to you and then punishing for anything simply teaches the dog that it gets in trouble when it comes to you. Dogs have no concept of doing things out of guilt, or spite, or anger. They aren't capable of feeling these emotions. The guilty look is nothing more than a dog waving a white flag of submission. The 'guilty look' is a dog trying to give you 'Calming Signals' and trying desperately to show you that it means no harm to you, and please calm down. Dogs LEARN to give calming signals after repeated punishment for being in the same area as a puddle on the carpet. They don't understand getting in trouble for something even 2 seconds after doing it. The only acceptable time to tell a dog 'no' for peeing on the floor is when you catch them literally in the act of doing it. Even then, don't go overboard, a simple NO followed by taking her out and balancing the correction with praise when she does go outside. Many owners create house training problems from being too harsh because dogs can learn that 'as long as no one sees me it is okay'. Find a way to deny access to peeing in the house for 2-3 weeks and the problem should resolve itself.
        I know it was a long answer, and some of it may not be relevant to your situation, but I discuss house training 7 days a week and always enjoy an opportunity to break some of the myths of understanding dogs. An excellent chapter/book is listed below about having sympathy for sometimes how much we expect from our canine companions. Hope my advice helps, and thanks for theopportunity in this forum!

    25. QUESTION:
      Any advise about house training a recently rescued dog?
      We rescued a dog about a week and a half ago and are having trouble training the dog to go outside. She is 1 1/2 year old boxer mix. She has messed in several different places in the house sometimes twice a day. She has also had loose stools. We gave her Tripe mixed with her food for a few days, but that didn't help. We are back to dry food (last 24 hours) bust are still having a problem. Any advise?

      • ANSWER:
        This poor dog is in a new place, with new food and likely stressed. You need to feed her some plain boiled rice with some lean meat chopped fine mixed with her kibble - white meat, skinless, boneless chicken would be good.
        If the diarrhea doesn't get better in a day or so, please get her to the vet for a fecal and some meds.
        You can give her some Kaopectate too meanwhile.

        I sure wouldn't give her tripe, or any new food until she is settled and well.

        Potty training means getting a routine established, you take her out on leash or in your fenced yard to the same area -- when she gets it right, you praise her long and loud and give treat. Do this over and over.
        Get her out within 10 minutes after meals (at least 2 meals per day), when she wakes up, before bedtime, and every 2 hours or so if possible until you get a routine established.

        Do NOT give her free run of the house, she's new, she doesn't understand the rules yet, and if she has pottied somewhere already, you need to NEUTRALIZE that area - not deodorize, neutralize, or she can still smell it and will use that place again.

        Do not yell or hit if she potties inside,neutralize, clean up and blame yourself for not watching her.
        Either crate her or baby gate her somewhere she can't make a mess when you cannot watch her.

        Be patient, get her out to the same area and keep her restrained indoors where she can't make a mess until she understands what the routine is. Takes time.

    26. QUESTION:
      I can I get my cats to get along with our new dog?
      I have 2 cats- about 9 years old. We now have a new dog- a mixed breed about 1.5 years old. The cats have been hiding under the bed and only come out to eat when the dog is in her crate. The dog is very friendly and approaches the cats, but they hiss & take off. What should I do?

      • ANSWER:
        I learned that using white vinegar on you pets' coats will neutralize the smells that our human noses can't pick up. After this is done, they'll eventually get used to each other. Another suggestion I learned was rubbing and switching clean rags (one per pet) so the other pets can get used to the new smells. Since you have 3 pets, you might need six or nine rags to switch around so everyone gets a few "whiffs"... Each cat might have to sleep with the other pets' rags overnight. Whatever you choose to do will take time.

        Please pet and hug your pets for me. Thanks.

    27. QUESTION:
      What to leave on when I leave the condo to keep my dog calm?
      So my dog has been having issues when I leave him in his crate. I am usually gone for 2-3 hours a day when he is in his crate. I live in a condo complex so I try to leave some noise on in my condo so if he whines or barks it might drown him out a little bit. I want to make sure the noises I am leaving on aren't scaring him or making things worse. I leave the TV on and then some white noise by the door. Is there anything else I can play to mix it up. Would music be better then TV? If so what kind? What about the white noise, will that bother him?

      • ANSWER:
        Hello AKH,
        I am not sure that the noise really helps him. If i go to bed and put my dog in his cage and i talk to my boyfriend on phone, he keeps moving and can't really relax.

        The television sometimes has the volume go up and down so i don't think it's the best solution. It surely will attract his attention, but it definitly won't calm him.

        To make your cage comfortable, you need a small blanket so he doesn't get cold (especially in winter), a toy that he particulary likes and a piece of clothe with your smell on it. If you want to make him "busy" so he doesn't think about you being gone, give him a big bone or a toy with stuffs in it. This way, he will be busy trying to get the treats or chewing the bone and won't think about you.

        I'm not sure about if the music or not would be good, but definitly not some rock/metal.
        Also know that dogs dislike high pitched sounds like a flute.

        If he is always scared when you leave, you can try to leave 15min, then 30min, then 1hour, etc. so that he slowly learns to be alone.

        Good luck!

    28. QUESTION:
      How long can I keep my dog in a crate?
      my dog has horrible diahria and shes been farting it out all over my new white carpet so ive been keeping her in a crate, how long can i keep her in it until shes over her diahria?

      • ANSWER:
        Is outdoors out of the question? I would hate to be contained with diarrhea. But I understand she is ruining your carpet too!
        Can you creat a doggie area outside for her right now?
        I would get her to the vet ASAP to get medicine to put a stop to the problem. I feel sorry for both of you!

    29. QUESTION:
      My dog eats too fast, this is bad for them, how do I slow it down?
      My large dog (German Shepard mix) eats too fast, we feed her about 2 cups every morning, and she attacks the bowl and finishes in about 10-15 seconds. I've heard this can cause twisting of the stomach, a serious and sometimes deadly condition. How can I slow her down?

      • ANSWER:
        Yes, hun this can cause bloat! Bloat, otherwise known as Gastric Torton, is a condition is rapidly fatal in deep-chested dogs (like your German Shepard and my Saints and Newfs!), causing shock, coma, and death within 6-12 hours.

        Here are the symptoms of bloat:

        major anxiety
        abdominal swelling after meals
        gagging
        whining
        heavy salivating
        pacing
        dry vomiting
        heavy panting
        shallow breathing
        restlessness
        excessive heartbeat
        weak pulse with off colored (blue, dark red, white) gums

        Initially affected dogs show some of the symptoms above and are not interested in food or water. After 30-60 minutes the dog begins to appear swollen in its midsection due to accumulation of gas in the stomach than begin to pant heavily and breathing becomes rapid and shallow. Keep in mind that the gagging and vomitting is ALWAYS unproductive!!

        If your dog shows ANY of the above symptoms she must be observed carefully and taken to a veterinarian immediately. They will take x-rays of the abdomen to confirm the diagnosis immediately.

        Here are some things I do to prevent bloat in my dogs:
        * I NEVER allow my dogs to play or exercise for 30 minutes BEFORE I feed them.

        * I feed my dogs 3 meals a day (smaller, frequent meals are prefered).

        * I never put all of their food in their bowls in one sitting. For example, suppose I feed my Saints 2 cups of food at each meal. I will never pour in the complete 2 cups!!! Instead, I will pour about 1/4 of a cup at a time. Allow them to eat and then wait a few minutes to give them another 1/4 of a cup. I have trained my Saints and Newfs to sit and wait patiently in fron of their bowl between feeding sessions. It takes me a full 3-5 minutes to feed my dogs each meal. I drag it out as long as possible!!

        *No water directly before eating and no water for an hour after eating!!!! An ice cube or two is fine.

        * I crate ALL my dogs for one full hour after eating to discourage them from playing and exercising. It is like their "nap" time!!

        * DO NOT used elevated bowls!!! That allows more air into the stomach!

        * I don't do this, but I have a friend with GSD who does this: she puts a large rock (large enough so they cannot pick it up, nevermind swallow it!!) in the middle of their bowl when feeding. This slows down her dogs because they have to try to eat around the rock.

        Basically, be very aware of the symptoms and always call your vet even if you aren't sure if it is bloat! You rather be safe than sorry!!

        NOTE: PLEASE never ever add water to the kibble!!! That will expand the food... which causes the bloating!!!

    30. QUESTION:
      How can you tell if your puppy has broken a bone?
      I have a West Highland White Terrier who is only 2 and a half months old. He is very active and likes to climb onto the top of things like beds, chairs, & tables but gets stuck there until someone in my family get him down.

      This morning I found him stuck on top of the kitchen table, (I have no idea how he got up there, I guess he climbed the chair and onto the table) and as I was walking over to let him down he jumped down and sort of laid there on the floor for a second. Then he got up but was limping a little.

      I noticed that he hasn't been running around and when he just walks, his back is arched up a little more than usual. He isn't crying or wimpering or seems like he's in any physical pain but I can't help but to worry. Someone please tell me what the symptoms are for a broken puppy bone. =/
      Is it possible he may have a broken rib or a hernia on his spine from the shock of the fall?

      • ANSWER:
        Best to take him to the vet, the vet will examine him first and if he feels it is necessary do an x-ray, broken bones are not the only concern , the dog could have damaged ligaments or caused a dislocation of a joint, even a muscle injury is pretty painful and dogs don't express pain vocally like we do but still suffer. So even if just a muscle injury the vet may want to prescribe pain meds, and follow the vets care advice very carefully as some leg injuries will take a long time to get better or lead to even worse injury sould the dog run on before it is properly healed so you may need to crate and leash walk only for a while to ensure joints heal properly

    31. QUESTION:
      Having trouble getting the dog to go outside?
      11 wk old beagle: Understands how to pee outside and sometimes even lets us know when he needs to go. The problem is he keeps pooping inside. I have read that you can't just rub their nose in it and say "bad dog!" because they don't fully understand what they did wrong. I take him out often but he rarely, if ever, takes a dump when we go out, then I find it somewhere in the house. What can I do differently? How do I teach him to do it outside and not inside?

      • ANSWER:
        Please don't rub his nose in it or hit him! He's just a baby and a little confused. Something that might be helpful is to take a little of his poop and put it outside where you want him to go. And make sure you've used some white vinegar as well as some Nature's Miracle to clean up anywhere he's had an "accident" inside.

        Here's my basic instructions for potty training. There can be more detail, but this will give you an excellent start.
        First off, confine him when you can't supervise. I can't stress enough the importance of this. For potty training, use a crate that is only big enough for her/him to comfortably stand, lie, and turn around in. He should not be able to potty in one end and lie down in the other. Make sure he's not confined for too long -- generally the age in months plus one hours (so 5 hours for a 4 month old pup).

        Every time you take him out of his crate take him outside. He should be on a leash. You should go through the same door every time. Take him to where you want him to potty and start repeating his potty command until he finishes. Then treat him and let him play or go for a walk.

        Put food and water on a schedule. Give 20 minutes to eat and then pick food up until next scheduled meal. Give water every hour (or when he's obviously thirsty.) By scheduling meals and water, you are able to predict when he will need to relieve himself. Put him on leash and take him out.

        Watch for behaviors that tell you he needs to go out: circling, squatting, sniffing,crouching, ....
        I have clients who tell me their puppies won't go while they are outside, only to come inside and make a mess on the floor! If you find this to be a problem, give him a reasonable amount of time outside and if he doesn't go confine him for 15 minutes when you come back inside. At the end of that time, take him back out. Repeat this process until he goes. By doing this, you are teaching him that he will earn his freedom by pottying where it's appropriate.

        Lastly, basic obedience training really can help. It clarifies leadership for your dog (and sometimes for the owners as well :) )

    32. QUESTION:
      How long did it take to housebreak your puppy?
      I adopted a Lhasa/poodle mix (white, named Murphy) 3 1/2 weeks ago. I am crate training him. I was taking him out every hour but now I am down to every two hours. However if he plays with my other dogs I have to take him out after 45 min to 1 hour. How long did it take you to train your small breed dog until he was completely housebroken. Thanks so much!

      • ANSWER:
        My small breed dog was about 18 months before she was 98% reliable. Accidents still happen, but it's usually my fault.

    33. QUESTION:
      Whats the characteristics of a Pomeranian dog?
      I wanna know if a Pomeranian dog is really what I'm looking for. I want a cute furry friendly, dog, thats small and really energetic.

      • ANSWER:
        I have had a pomeranian for seven years, and I got him when he was a puppy. I love that little dog with all of my heart, but there are some things you should be aware of.
        He is not energyless. He enjoys going on walks and even hikes in the woods, but he is also less energetic than other breeds I've had (collie mix, beagle mix, pitbull mix). I think pomeranians would fare well in an apartment, but they should receive frequent walks and exercise regardless.
        Also, I've found that he was a lot more difficult to potty train. He rarely ever defecated in the house, but it took nearly two years to keep him from peeing on the carpet at night when we were sleeping. He knew that it was wrong, but continued to do so. I contribute this partly to our ignorance, but I do feel that smaller dogs experience an urge to urinate more frequently than bigger ones. (from my experience and from what I've heard from other owners of small breed dogs). We finally stopped this by crating him at night, and later by keeping him in the bedroom with us and the door closed.

        If you want a dog that will "snuggle" with you, I do not recommend a pomeranian. They are feisty, bratty little things (I say this with the utmost respect), and will not willingly sit in your lap and cuddle. Tails hates when I try to "spoon" with him in bed. Furthermore, when sleeping in bed with us, if we make the slightest movement, he growls, and eventually will hop off the bed angrily if we don't settle in one position. Honestly, I wish he was more snuggly, but I admire his slightly bossy personality, and have grown very fond of this silly demeanor.

        He gets along great with other dogs. Typically, he enjoys annoying them by biting at their necks while in play. If you have another dog, make sure that they do not get annoyed easily. Also, some aggressive breeds see pomeranians as food. I have experienced this twice, when two aggressive dogs (one was in the car of a vacation kennel, the other loose in our neighborhood) saw tails and went after him. Both times I was forced to pick him up and fight of the dogs. They ignored my bigger dog entirely and really wanted Tails. With well trained dogs, this will not be a problem, but I always am aware of my surroundings, and make sure that Tails is safe when around unfamiliar dogs.

        Pomeranians, like most small dogs, can be sort of yappy; honestly, I don't think that my pomeranian is very bad. He does bark at passerbys when in the house, and at the mailman, but a lot of larger dogs do that, as well. His yappiness has definitely never made me regret getting a pom.

        As far as his coat condition, he was not born with the typical "double coat" that poms are supposed to have. This has honestly been a blessing, because we can shave him in the summer without worrying that it won't grow back properly. You have to brush them often (its recommended once a week, we do it once a month, and that works fine.)

        Poms are small, but a GREAT DEAL of them have genes that have caused them to be bigger, with longer snouts. This is how my pom is. Usually white colored poms have this gene (Sharon Osboarne's is a perfect example.) Tails is not overweight, and also purebread (with papers), but he weighs 17 pounds. Our vet says this is very common among poms. I do not show my dog, so I do not think that this is a negative trait. He is still a little guy, little enough for me.

        I think the main thing to know is that they are loving and loyal, but pretty damn bratty as well. I love that trait, but you should make sure you're aware of that before getting one.

        Also- Tails HATES little boys. I honestly think it was because my younger cousin was too rough with him when playing. Tails definitely formed a bias VERY quickly, and will bark, nip, and chase little boys. If you have young children, I would not get a pom.

        Good luck!

    34. QUESTION:
      How well do you know your dogs?
      This is for people with 3 or more dogs of the same breed:

      Can you tell your dogs apart in the dark, or with your eyes closed?

      Can you tell them apart by the sound of their voice?

      I have ten Basset Hounds. When they come onto the bed at night, or go under the covers, I can tell which one it is by feeling coat texture, head shape, ear texture and length, cowlicks,cysts and scars, even the feet. And their voices are all different, I always know who is barking.

      Anyone else?
      Oh yeah, body shape too.

      • ANSWER:
        For years I had a bunch of all white (with a bit of bisquit on some) Samoyeds and never had an issue telling the differences between them - whether in the dark, barking, by touch etc..

        I now have a bunch of Bernese - and for the most part I can tell who is who instantly - Except, 9 mos old Whitey is growing to look a LOT like Nutterz who just blew her coat. Twice, Whitey has ducked into Nutterz crate and I've tossed in a cookie and locked the crate, only to find Nutterz wandering about a minute or two later... I really need to pay better attention! (I'll be showing them in Brace when Whitey matures a bit more!)

    35. QUESTION:
      I want a good dog breed, that is ok for an apartment, good for peole who have allergies?
      And can be alone for 6 hours a day without destroyingg my house, all the breeds I've looked at need to be with people all the time, I would have time to walk it sthat'sts not an issue, I don't really care of the size just a dog that can play with me.

      I have looked at fox terries, basenji's and irish terries, what is your opionon of these breeds?

      • ANSWER:
        Poodles are really good hypoallergenic dogs. They come in three sizes toy, miniature, and standard. So you could choose the size! They also come in black, white, grey and apricot colors. They are one of the smartest dog breeds you can get and are very loving. Any dog you get will have to be trained. There is no specific dog breed that doesn't destroy your house when being left alone. You have to train it either with a crate or putting it in an area when you are gone with nothing that it can destroy until you are comfortable letting it free in your house. Terriers of any kind are good dogs but they can be kind of hyper. Most terriers were also bred to dig and run after small rodents so you may want to think about that! Basenjis are good but can be kinda iffy in the personality department if not socialized. Like I said a poodle or a bichon frise or a water dog like the president has. They are all supposed ot be good on allergies. But like I said the poodle is one of the best. Hope this helps!

    36. QUESTION:
      How to toilet train my dog?
      I got a mini foxy corss jack russell male dog about 2 months ago, he is now 4 months old and he is still going to the toilet inside. We have paper down, and also take him outside when he wakes up and every hour or so. When he does go to the toilet, we yell at him and put him outside, but I feel mean. How do I toilet train my dog?

      • ANSWER:
        Don't yell at him. That actually makes the problem worse. Because he doesn't understand what he did was wrong he'll just feel bad. And while he may understand what he did was wrong, he doesnsn't understand where to do it so it confuses and hurts him. The behavior wont stop but it will make him timid and scared of you.

        If you have a child and were potty training them, would you spank and punish them for going in their diaper? Remember when you were a kid? Did you learn better from someone being kind and praising you when you did right or from someone yelling at you and punishing you?

        Obviously from praise. When he goes on the floor, take him to the spot and show him, then take him to the door and physically take his paw and make him scratch it, then take him outside and walk him around. I'm not saying rub his nose in it, just make sure he knows what you are refering too. Then when he does outside, even a tiny bit, get all excited and praise the heck out of him and give him a treat. He'll eventually get the point.

        Frequent walkings are good too as it makes the chances of accidents smaller. Again when he goes, get excited! If you are gonig to be gone for long periods of time during the day and can't get home to walk him, invest in a crate for awhile. That way if he goes its in the crate. You can eliminate this once he becomes better at going outside.

        Also, white vinegar. If he goes in the same place on the carpet after you clean it, but white vinegar on it. Since dogs have super human senses of smell, its very offensive to them and they wont want to be around there to go again.

        Good luck! And always remember, positive reinforcement works 100% better than negative!

    37. QUESTION:
      How do I potty train my dog?
      I have a dog that is about 8 months old.Her name is Molly.She is a opsa-lopsa and a maltees mix.I have tryed everything I can think of.Any sugestions?

      • ANSWER:
        Listen to bcringler. That person gave you the best advice that works. Do not use paper or pads. All that does is teach your dog to pee on anything that it thinks is a pee pad, rugs included. You will never train a dog to go outside as long as you use pee pads inside. Those are fine for lazy people or people who live in upper story apt. buildings and can't get down the elevator or stairs in time with their dogs. Always ask the dog every time you take it out in a stern voice "Do you have to go out?".
        By doing so, you will eventually know when your dog has to go potty by the way it responds when you ask that question. Never rub your dogs nose in it either, the dog doesn't know why you are doing that. You can't discipline the dog for messing in the house unless you catch it in the act. If you try to discipline the dog after the fact, he won't know why you are angry with him. You have to catch the dog in the act of pottying in the wrong and disclipline the dog at the time of the accident with a very loud stern "NO", this will startle the dog into stopping dead in its tracks and at the same time you bring the dog outside where you want it to do its business. When he is finished give lots of happy praise. Dogs think in black and white, they don't analyze like we do. Never give a dog full reign of your home while potty training. A dog should be in a well vented crate or cage at all times other than play, potty, and feeding. Any dog can be trained and at any age as long as you are dedicated to following a schedule and don't give up before the dog learns what it is he or she is being taught. Alway's use an exceptional amount of happy PRAISE when your dog follows thru. He will associate your good praise and happy mood with the act at hand. Good Luck!

    38. QUESTION:
      How do I train my puppy?
      I have a 2 months male cocker spaniel. He is buff and white and has blue eyes!! His name is Prince. How do I potty train my puppy? And how to train him to Come,Sit,and Heel? Thanks To everybody's answers.

      • ANSWER:
        For the obedience part (sit, stay, heel etc) enroll in a puppy class. They will get you started in the right direction as well as give your dog much needed socialization with other dogs and people.

        How long it will take you to house train your dog depends on your dedication to the training process and your puppy's maturity and learning rate.

        Things you will need to housetrain your puppy are a properly fitted crate, a collar and leash, some treats, and time and patience.

        You also need to pick a spot for your puppy to go potty. Using the same spot each time will help the puppy recognize that this is where he should go, and the smell from going there other times will help him go potty faster when you take him out.

        I don't recommend using doggie litter boxes or those puppy pads. If you want your dog to always go potty in the house fine, then use this article to teach them to go there. But don't complain to me when your dog starts going other places in the house. Dogs often times cannot tell the difference between a puppy pad and your expensive rug. All they know is its ok to go potty in the house so any area with a roof is fair game for elimination. Also trying to paper train a dog and then trying to switch the dog to going outside is counterproductive and confusing for the dog. Doing this will only slow the training down. So forget the puppy pads and start teaching your dog to go outside from day one. If you have already been using them throw them out and start all over from the beginning, but keep mind the process may take a little longer the second time around since once your dog has bad habits they are hard to break. Its much easier to prevent them than to correct them later.

        When looking for a crate you want one that is big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lay down. You don't want it so big that he can lay in one end and use the other end as a bathroom. If he can do this trust me he will. There are all kinds of different styles of crates: the two most common are wire and plastic. But they come in mesh, wicker, all sorts of different materials now. I would recommend choosing either a wire or plastic one, especially for puppies that like to chew. Here are some pros and cons of plastic and wire crates.

        Plastic: These come in several sizes so can accommodate nearly every size of dog. They also give a more den like feeling to the dog and have less of a cage look. The disadvantage to these crates is that you may need to buy more than one to accommodate a growing puppy, and they take up more room if you want to store them even though they usually will come apart in halves for storage. There are also some newer plastic crates that will fold up similar to a wire crate.

        Wire: Like the plastic crate these also come in a variety of sizes. They do look more like cages though, something that can be fixed by purchasing a cover for it. A cover will also help some dogs feel more secure in a wire crate. The advantage of these is that you can buy a size to fit your dog when it is full grown. Wire crates have dividers available for purchase so that you can make the crate fit your puppy. These also have a storage advantage in that most fold up very neatly and can be stored easily.

        Next you will need to introduce your puppy to its crate. Just sticking the puppy in there without a positive introduction can be very stressful for the pup. I like to bring a new puppy home on a day off, and try to pick it up as soon as possible in the morning. This way I have all day to introduce the puppy to the crate so that by bedtime the puppy will feel pretty comfortable with its crate and shouldn't fuss to much.

        Start by showing the puppy the crate and let him explore it. Next show your puppy a treat and then toss it inside. When your puppy goes in to get the treat praise him excitedly. Repeat this a few times and then end this session. If your pup won't go all the way in the crate to get the treat try throwing it closer to the door, or even outside the door and then gradually toss it farther back, until the pup goes all the way in.

        After an hour or two have another session with crate. If your pup went all the way in the last time start there, if not start at the point you left off. After a couple times of going in the crate and coming right back out you can shut the door. But let the pup out after a second or two. Repeat this gradually increasing the amount of time the pup is in the crate. If you do this several times the first day by the time your ready for bed your pup should be pretty comfortable with the crate. I also like to repeat this process for a day or two after the pup comes home.

        Also remember that whenever your dog is crated you need to remove any type of collar, even a buckle collar can catch on a crate and strangle a dog.

        Now that you have your crate set up and your pup introduced to it you need to put your puppy on a feeding schedule. Puppies 8 wks to 6 months should be given three meals a day. After six months this can be cut down to 2 meals. Free-feeding (having food available all the time) is not recommended. It can lead to obesity and makes it harder to housetrain your puppy. Another disadvantage to this feeding method is that it will be harder for you tell if your dog is off food which can be a sign of illness. Feeding on a schedule allows you to predict when your puppy will need to go out. If you know when it went in you can predict when it will come out. You will want to divide your dog's full daily amount into three smaller meals. Give him the food and after twenty minutes take away the bowl whether there is food in it or not. Dogs will generally consume all they want in twenty minutes. Take your puppy to his potty spot about 15-20 minutes after he has finished eating. Repeat the go potty command while you are waiting for him to go. When he starts to go tell him good boy go potty, and when he has finished give him a treat and make a big fuss over him.

        I'd also like to tell you how to tell if your puppy is getting to much or to little food. The recommendations on dog food bags are just a starting point. Start with that amount and then watch to see if your dog needs more or less. The way to tell is to do a rib check. You shouldn't be able to see the ribs, if you can add more food. You should be able to easily feel the ribs under a thin layer of fat, if you have trouble feeling the ribs, cut back the amount of food.

        In addition to having to go out after meals your puppy will also need to go potty after he wakes up from a nap, after playing, and first thing in the morning and before bed. Signs that your puppy needs to go out: are restlessness and circling an area while sniffing. If your puppy does these things it's a safe bet to take him out. Remember though that individual dogs have their own signs of needing to go to the bathroom and you will soon pick up on these signals as well.

        When you are out for potty breaks you should stand still, if he wants to play ignore him. You want him to know that it is time to go to the bathroom not time to play. If you allow him to play before he goes to the bathroom he may start to hold out on you to extend his playtime. Once he has gone to the bathroom however you can play all you want. Stay outside with your dog for about 10 minutes to wait for him to go, if he doesn't go in ten minutes just pick him up and carry him back inside matter-of-factly. No treats or playtime on the way in. When you get back into the house he will either need to be crated or watched like a hawk. Try again in ten minutes. Repeat until he goes.

        Another mistake a lot of people make when they bring their new puppy home is to allow him free run of the place. This will only hurt your training and will also cause your dog to get into a lot of trouble. Young puppies need to be watched. When your puppy can't be watched he should be in his crate. This way he can't make a mistake or get into trouble.

        Accidents:

        The only time you can punish your puppy for having an accident in the house is if you catch him in the act. Even then it's less of a punishment and more of a redirection. If you see your puppy going to the bathroom in the house, startle him with a sharp NO and take him outside to finish the job. When he finishes outside, give him a treat and lots of praise. Back inside the house clean up the mess and use an enzymatic cleaner (such as OUT or Nature's Miracle) to remove all traces of the mess so he won't be tempted to use the same spot. Most carpet cleaners will leave traces of the mess that you can't see or smell, but your pet can.

        If you find a mess after the fact, well to bad that one is your fault, you should have been watching the puppy. Simply clean it up and try to watch more carefully. If you try to scold your pup after the fact he will have no idea what you are mad about and will be confused and may even become scared of you. NEVER, NEVER rub your dogs nose in urine or feces. It is not only disgusting but it also has no training value what so ever. Hitting your dog with anything including a rolled up newspaper is also unacceptable.

        Young puppies may need to use the bathroom during the night, so I advise putting the crate in your bedroom. This way if the puppy sounds restless you can take him to the bathroom. This will also make your puppy feel more secure because he is close to you. If you do need to take your puppy out in the middle of the night make sure you allow him to go to the bathroom only. No playtime for these outings. Still give him a treat and praise, but do so in a quieter manner than you would during the day. This way you won't get him all riled up the middle of night. Remember if you let him get away with playing in the middle of the night he will begin to expect it, and you don't want that. How long night time outings will last depends on the age of your puppy, and how fast his bladder matures.

        It also helps to have his last meal of the day at least two hours before bed and take away his water an hour before bed. You don't want to put it in the crate with him, it would be unfair to the puppy to expect him to have a supply of water and then not have to go to the bathroom all night long. The only thing that should be in your dog's crate are a chew toy and maybe a doggie blanket. Although some pups will urinate on absorbant materials that are in their crate, if yours does remove it. Also if you see that your puppy is chewing on his blanket it should be removed. If the puppy ingests part of the blanket it could cause an intestinal blockage. If that happens emergency surgery is needed to remove the blanket from the intestines.

        I know this sounds like a lot of work but that is what puppies are. They are also a lot of fun and that should make up for the work part of having a puppy. And just keep in mind that one day soon you will have a beautiful dog who is housetrained and is a joy to have around.

        (Note: if you are going to use this article to train a dog that had previously been housetrained and is now having accidents, please contact your vet first. If your dog suddenly "forgets" his housetraining it can be a sign of infection, and that needs to be treated. Once you have confirmed that the dog is healthy with your vet, then refresh your dog with this article)

    39. QUESTION:
      What should I do about rough play for adopted brother and sister Aussie puppies?
      Hi. We found two stray 5 month old Australian Shepherd puppies in late October 2012. We are pretty sure they are brother and sister. We took them to the local shelter and no one claimed them, so, we adopted them. They used to sleep together and the first thing we did was to put them in separate crates. That was challenging...but, it seems to have settled out after one month. The boy dog (white) seems to be deaf...we have been training them separately and he is definitely not as dependent on her as he was when they first arrived.

      They really play rough, together, though. When we let them out in the yard together or take them into the kennel to play...they will rough play, run, for hours. My wife and I are beside ourselves. When we have them out there individually, it's fun. When they are together, they mostly play rough and can't focus on balls, frisbees, etc. They constantly go at each other...no blood or cuts that we can see....and it seems to be harmless at this point.

      Is this normal? Should we continue to try to do separate training/play and then let them get together to rough play? Any advice on going forward? We just had them spayed/neutered...and it was a challenge keeping them separate. When we would take them out to go to the bathroom, we had to keep them as separate as possible so as not to cause a possible issue after the surgery. The reason we adopted both of them is that since he was deaf, we felt that if we chose her and not him, he might have ended up being euthanized. It was a tough decision to take them both. So far, they've been sweet puppies...it's just when they get together...it's a challenge! Their training seems to be going ok when they are separate. Both can sit, stay, come, rollover, lay down...and give paw.

      Thank you for any advice!

      • ANSWER:

    40. QUESTION:
      What kind of sheet should I buy for my sweating son?
      Our dog sleeps with our son and sometimes pee's in his bed so I have to have a watereproof mattress pad on it, which makes him sweat. To make matters worse we live in florida which makes him sweat even more. I know I can turn the air up in the summer but I wanted to see if maybe it would help to get certain kind of sheets like flannel, satin or a higher thread count?

      • ANSWER:
        You definitely do NOT want higher thread count or satin -- they do not breathe at all! I would recommend you try the knit sheets made of tee-shirt material. You can also get a waterproof mattress pad that is made of a kind of dense white felt instead of plastic -- it is not as hot as the plastic ones. Our family all got them for our guest beds when my nephews were little and often wet the bed so I have slept on beds with these pads and they are quite comfortable.

        Meanwhile, you really do need to get the puppy trained -- most trainers and vets would recommend that you make it sleep in a crate at night until it learns to train its bladder. That's not a healthy or sanitary situation for boy or dog right now (plus it is too much laundry for you.)

    41. QUESTION:
      How to potty train a little dog?
      My mom always hates the smell of dog poop and pee on the carpet so she wants me to potty train it but i dont know how any ideas?

      • ANSWER:
        More info would be helpful. Is it a puppy or adult, etc?

        This was an answer I gave another person with the same problem:)

        Since your dog is no longer a young puppy he will have better bowel and bladder control. Place the dog on a regular elimination schedule and take him outside at certain times, whether he needs to eliminate or not - first thing in the morning, after meals and play and the last thing at night. It is essential to accompany him to make certain he is, indeed, eliminating. Dogs are creatures of habit. The more quickly you turn a good behavior into a habit, the faster your training will go.

        If you haven't already decided on a crate for your dog, you may want to investigate purchasing one for him. The most effective way to teach him to eliminate outdoors is to prevent him from using the house in the first place.

        Dogs are den animals and have an instinct not to soil their den. The crate will become your dog's den.

        Confinement to the crate overnight or for a three-to-four-hour period during the day when he is unsupervised will help speed the housetraining process.

        Despite your best efforts and diligence an accident may occur. If it should happen, treat the incident in a matter-of-fact manner. It is critical that you not scare or confuse your dog by physical punishment or yelling. The dog won't understand why you're upset, and you are only creating more stress for your dog. Put the dog outdoors or in another room while you clean. If the accident should occur on carpeting use lots of paper towel and blot with fresh paper until you have lifted as much liquid as possible. Neutralize the odor with plain white vinegar and water or a commercial pet-odor eliminator. A diarrhea stain on carpeting or upholstery can be lifted with a solution of lukewarm water, dishwashing soap and white vinegar.

        Housetraining your older puppy requires patience, humor, understanding, compassion and time. He wants to please you by doing the right thing. Help him make the adjustment to his new home a successful one.

        Good luck and I hope I helped!:)

    42. QUESTION:
      My dog has been really aggressive since she got spayed, what should I do?
      I have a 1 1/2 year old mix that got spayed last Wednesday. On Friday she started acting really aggressive towards my other dogs, especially my other female. My other female just goes up to the one who was spayed to see what is up and the one that was spayed starts to attack her. I want to know if this is normal. Is it? If not, what should I do?

      • ANSWER:
        she is in pain + should be separated from the other dogs --
        at minimum until her stitches come out.
        she should also not be off-leash outside of a crate --
        all of her potty-trips should be on-leash, so that U can be sure
        that she is empty, check for any bleeding in her urine, etc.

        is she wearing an Elizabethan collar/cone?
        if not, she needs to have a cervical collar to keep her from
        messing with the incision, and a white T-shirt secured with
        an Ace bandage / Safety pins is a good idea; any blood or
        serum leaking from the incision will be SEEn before she
        licks it off, or it is brushed off / absorbed by her bed, the
        carpet, grass, etc.

        if she begins to weep straw-colored fluid from the incision,
        call the vet -- if she pops a stitch or BLEEDs, go To the Vet.
        and No jumping!! until at least 14-days go by with no pain.
        she can put too much pull on her incision.

        hope she is fine! generally there are no complications,
        but this is an intra-abdominal surgery -- so it is always
        best to monitor carefully.
        cheers! and congrats on her spay...

    43. QUESTION:
      What kind of shampoo to use on my white german shepherd?
      i have a 3 year old white german shepherd and her hair is stained pretty bad from getting wet dog food on her while in her crate. I've read about using a whitening shampoo to keep her hair white but is there anything specific i can use to help get the stains that are already set in out??

      • ANSWER:
        What I use on my white German Shepherd Dog is a simple brand at Petsmart. The brand is "Perfect Coat" and they have a shampoo for literally everything, including white coated dogs. It is the only brand I use and it is also a shampoo and conditioner in one. I use the black kind for my black dog, I use the white for my white GSD, and I use the deshedding kind for my other two and sometimes for my GSD.

        ADD: I love how so many idiots on here think they know what they're talking about and think every white German Shepherd Dog came from a backyard breeder. In my area, there are quite a lot of white GSDs doing police work, mainly for scent work but they do do other things. I guess the police get their highly intelligent and reliable dogs from backyard breeders? Many working lines also have whites, if the dog can do work I could care less what color it is. Not to mention you have no idea where the asker got this dog. Don't open your uneducated mouth about something you know nothing about, makes you look like an a**

    44. QUESTION:
      My boyfriends dog keeps pooping in the house, even after walks. How to make him stop?
      My boyfriend has a white German Shepherd that's 3 or 4 and no matter how long he goes out he will still poop in the house. He has a schedule and he will do all of his business right before my boyfriend goes to work, but When I get home there's his droppings everywhere. He knows he did wrong because he will cower due to abuse from a different family when he was a puppy. He used to only do it sometimes but recently it's been everyday. And nothing has changed in our schedule to make his mood different in a way that he feels that he needs to soil the floor. I don't want to be rude and mean to my boyfriend an tell him that his animal has a problem. But I hate coming home before my boyfriend to always having to clean his messes when it's not my dog.

      • ANSWER:
        Crate him when no one is able to watch him. If you are home, don't let him have run of the house - tether him to yourself until he is more trustworthy.

    45. QUESTION:
      How do i get my mom to by a dog door in the kitchen?
      i just got a new cheagle like 10 days ago. my cheagle is 7 weeks old. and my family is away from are home alot. and he sometimes uses the bathroom in the house. my cheagle needs to go out alot faster,he is white,black,brown hes adorable. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

      • ANSWER:
        You don't need a dog door, you need a crate. Crate the puppy when no one is home, as long as it isn't for more than 3 hrs. or so. You shouldn't have got such a young puppy with a family that is away so much.

    46. QUESTION:
      Switching my dog from paper training to housetraining?
      My dog is a 10 week old mini dachshund, the breeder paper trained him and i want him to go outside, he refuses to soil his crate, which is good, how do i train him to go outside?

      • ANSWER:
        Take a piece of the newspaper with pee on it and stake it outside where you want him to go. Carry him from his crate to that spot first thing in the morning and let him sniff the paper. Guaranteed he'll pee there. Give lavish praise and a treat. This avoids any chance of inside "accidents".
        Puppies need to pee after a nap, play, eating and drinking. Be ready to take him out.
        Do not give him the run of the house. Gradually expand his turf from the crate to the kitchen, and gradually add rooms as he gets older. This way the whole house becomes his den. This is the secret to easy house training. Pass it on.
        Clean up accidents with diluted white vinegar, or better still diluted hydrogen peroxide. Since their noses are 700x more sensitive than ours, a dog will generally gravitate to a previous pee spot and guess what...?

    47. QUESTION:
      How do i get my dog to stop barking in her crate?
      Our dog is perfectly comfortable in her crate when we are in the room with her (she sleeps there all night quietly), but when we have company and try to crate her or we're not in the room she barks continually. How can I get her to stop so we can crate her when we have company that don't love dogs? (btw she is 6 years old so its an old habit)

      • ANSWER:
        Close the door, buy a white noise machine, and turn on the TV or radio. You want her to hear as little of you as possible. If you can provide a special time consuming treat that's safe to give without supervision, do so.

        As far as the guests, tell them in advance that you have a well behaved dog and then make sure your dog is well behaved. There's no reason that you should have to put the dog away when you have a few couples over. As long as the dog is properly trained, there's no issue. My dogs get super excited for about 30 minutes and then go pass out somewhere when we are too boring for them. My big dog is still learning manners so we leash him to prevent problems.

    48. QUESTION:
      How to care for a puppy with a broken jaw ?
      Hi. Our 4 month old puppy was attacked by a much larger neighborhood dog. The end result: our puppy is now at the ER Vet's getting his broken jaw wired. The ER Vet has him until tomorrow morning ... then we take him home and care for him ourselves until Tuesday morning when our usual Vet's office is open again.

      I'm usually pretty good at culling info from the internet, but perhaps because I'm an emotional wreck at the moment, I just can't seem to find any info right now that would tell me how to care for our puppy when he comes home tomorrow with his jaw wired.

      Does anyone out there have any personal or professional experience with this ? Can anyone out there find me some sites that would provide me with helpful info ?

      Any helpful replies will be greatly appreciated - many thanks in advance for any research / internet digging that is done to help me.

      • ANSWER:
        Okay - listen carefully, make sure that the vet and the staff give you some 30cc and 60 cc syringes that'll allow you to make sure the puppy is getting enough nutrition in a measurable amount. Get some Pedialyte
        plain flavored to use in the gruel, some Nutri-cal ( a high quality vitamin supplement in a paste form), a case of baby food in chicken or turkey flavor and always keep some white rice - I use chinese takeout white rice because its particuarly sticky.
        The rice helps keep the dog's stool firm. The baby food makes the gruel you're about to make palatable. You'll have to play with the amounts of each ingredient til you get it right.
        And get a blender if you dont have one - its gonna be your friend for a while. And dont be scared. The dog's gonna need your CONFIDENCE as well to get better. If you're nervous or tentative the dog will pick it up and may not bounce back as well.
        Now - since the jaw cant be opened - you're going to have to learn to gingerly place the gruel mix into the corner pocket of the puppy's mouth and SLOWLY squeeze the mix in. Carefully tilt his head to help him and rub his throat in a downward motion to help him swallow til he learns to handle the awkwardness of swallowing this way. The puppy will be real sore for a while, maybe even a little mopey so dont be discouraged. Make sure you keep on REAL civil terms with the staff, because believe me, you're gonna need their help - so dont let your fear or frustration out on them. Maintain an even strain. Help the puppy by wrapping him in your arms afterwards and comforting him, keep his face CLEAN of dry food by using a warm wet washcloth well wrung out to wipe his face afterwards - this will ape his mother's grooming and will soothe and calm him - encourage him to sleep. Keep him in the room with you or wherever you are in the house. Dont talk so much as comfort him with calming strokes. He's had a trauma and may have bad dreams of the attack when he sleeps - so dont spoil him til he gets clingy but let him know you're there.
        You can use the crate if thats how he's been trained still but keep him in the room where you are! Isolating the puppy when he's ill is the worst thing you can do. Try not to fret if you have to go to work. Use the E collar if they recommend one, it doesnt hurt the puppy and will help healing if the puppy isnt digging at the jaw. I've seen wonderful, life saving miracle vet surgery work undone by people who foolishly worry about the aggravation of the E collar rather than the risk of re-surgery.
        LISTEN TO WHAT THE DOCTOR TELLS YOU. Ask them if you can call if you get scared or overwhelmed - and find out where or who you're regular vet recommends for AFTER HOURS CARE in case of complications, which usually happens AFTER your vet closes for the weekend or the holidays. Get a copy of any xrays and the treatment pages to transport BY HAND DIRECTLY to your vet. Be patient - you'll be surprised how fast your puppy will heal.
        DONT BE SCARED. It'll be alright.


    white dog crate

    Crate An

    How do I get my Aquarius man back? Don't you wish there was one simple and easy answer to that question? The problem with relationships, especially those that begin to fall apart, is that most of us have no idea how exactly to handle the situation. Instead of taking a step back and thinking about what the best approach to take is, we jump in, head first. Our emotions get behind the driver's wheel and things careen out of control very quickly. You want your guy back but you do need to stop, think and then act. You'll be grateful you did.

    In order to get an Aquarius man back you need to have realistic expectations. If you're dreaming of the moment when he comes crawling back to you begging you to take him back, you'll be waiting forever. That isn't how these men work. They don't act that way. Instead of hoping that he'll miraculously change his mind and want you back, you need to persuade him to do that. If you can be subtle about it, that's even better.

    First things first, you've got to give the man some space. Aquarius men need some time to process what happened once a relationship ends. Even though you're going to have an overwhelming urge to follow him around, don't do that. Busy yourself in your own life. Do what you can to get your mind off of him. If you grant him the space he desires you're sending a very clear message that you respect his needs. That's crucial if you want things to move forward to a romantic place again.

    Just as you likely played hard to get when you were initially trying to attract your guy, resort to that again. This tactic just works really well with men born under this sign. You do need to play it a little differently the second time around though or he'll see through what you're doing very easily. The main point to remember is to not initiate contact with him. Let him come to you. If you do end up having a telephone conversation with him, be the first to end it. Always have a great excuse in your back pocket to use when you are interacting with him. You need to leave him wanting more. This is what drives Aquarius men wild with desire.

    He knows you so use that to your advantage. Make certain that your best qualities are always shining through when you're around him. You want to remind him of why he fell in love with you in the first place. Dropping understated hints about the happier times of your lives together will pull him closer again too.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1. QUESTION:
      Does anyone know how to crate train a puppy? or an idea of a crate training schedule?
      I am planning on crate training my puppy and I want to know how long I should keep her in there, when I should take her out, when I should play with her,etc. Please help ! An example of a schedule would be great, but if not, anything will help. By the way, she will be 8 weeks when I get her.

      • ANSWER:
        Congratulations on your new puppy :) Crate training can be a difficult process, but its definitely worth it for you and your puppy. I'll give my advice on what worked crate training my dog (he's five now, but we got him at 10 weeks old!), and then leave a link for the Human Society's information on crate training.

        First off, you'll want to make sure you have time to be home with your puppy, at least for the first few days, but if possible the first week or two. Secondly, you need to pick the correct sized crate. People frequently assume that its "cruel" to have the dog in a small crate, but reality is, the puppy should have enough room to get in, and circle around and lay down, but not enough room that she could soil one corner of the crate and sleep in the other. Some sort of bedding so she's comfortable is a must, but make sure its not something she can chew (since puppies do chew). If it is something she could possibly chew, and swallow, observe her in her crate, to prevent the risk of bowel obstructions.

        Please take into consideration, that a typical puppy can hold his/her urine for his/her age in months, plus one. So at eight weeks, two months, you're puppy can hold it for around three hours. Taking this into consideration, I'd really recommend taking her out at least every two hours to start with, more if possible.

        A normal schedule may go as follows:

        9:00am: She goes outside. If she pees or poops, you give her praise, and you can play with her outside, or inside for a while.

        10:00am - 10:05am: Crate time. She will cry, and you will feel the need to run to her. Starting off with just a few minutes of crate time, five or less, gets her used to the crate.

        10:05am - 10:45am: Tell her she's a good girl and immediately take her out. The BEST routine we've gotten into, is taking our dog out immediately after he leaves his crate. It has clicked something in his brain, so now he automatically uses the bathroom once he's out of his crate. She may not go this time, since she did just go an hour before.

        10:45-10:50: Crate time. Again, plan for tears. Afterward take her immediately outside for at least another half an hour, a walk if you can.

        Repeat this throughout the day. Whenever you feed her (2-3 times a day depending on size) take her out immediately afterward. Keep an eye on her water intake, and take her out after she drinks as well. For the first day, stick to 5-10 minutes in the crate at a time. Work your way up from there, adding 5-10 minutes each day on. Also, you can start by staying in the same room as her in her crate, but you want to pretty quickly move to another room, so she can't see you.

        It is hard, and it will take a few weeks of whining and crying to get used to it, but it makes house breaking so much easier, and now I can just say, "Frankie crate," and he goes right into his crate :) He actually enjoys sleeping in there!

        The crate IS NEVER a punishment. If she has an accident, don't yell at her and put her in the crate. The crate is a safe place, and the more you treat it like one, the more she'll want to be in there.

        Good luck!

        http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html

    2. QUESTION:
      What is the acceleration of the crate if the coefficient of kinetic friction is 0.4?
      A 10-kg crate is sliding down an incline that is 35 degrees above the horizontal.

      What is the acceleration of the crate if the coefficient of the kinetic friction is 0.4?

      • ANSWER:
        ____________________________-

        Mass of crate = m =10 kg

        weight of crate = w = mg =10*9.8= 98 N

        Angle of incline= O = 35 degrees above the horizontal.

        Component of weight parallel to incline = mg sin O

        Component of weight parallel to incline =98*0.5736

        Component of weight parallel to incline in downward direction = 56.212 N

        Component of weight perpendicular to incline = mg cos O=98*0.8192

        Component of weight perpendicular to incline =80.277 N

        Normal reaction = R =Component of weight perpendicular to incline=80.277 N

        Normal reaction = R = 80.277 N

        The coefficient of kinetic friction= (mu) =0.4

        Force of kinetic friction= f = 0.4*80.277

        Force of kinetic friction= f = 32.064 parallel to incline upwards

        Net force on crate = Fn = 56.212 -32.064=24.148 N parallel to incline in downward direction

        Acceleration = a = Fn / m

        Acceleration = a = 24.128/10=2.4128 m/s^2

        The acceleration of the crate is 2.4128 m/s^2
        _________________________________________

    3. QUESTION:
      How to prevent a rusty crate to leave rust-marks on the floor?
      I recently bought a rusty Ammunition-crate from 1943 to decorate my apartment. I think the rust looks great and that's one of the reasons I bought the crate. I would like to put it somewhere but I'm afraid the rust will attack the stone-tiles.

      Now I'm looking for an effective way to treat the crate so that the rust don't attack the floor, but still is visible.

      Thank you!

      • ANSWER:
        Put a sheet of wood, or a wooden crate, underneath the ammunition crate. If any rust comes off, it will go onto the wood, protecting your floors. Distressed wood look authentic with a 1943 artifact.

    4. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to crate train an adult dog?
      My husky is deathly afraid of crates but we are moving into an apartment and I'm worried about her destroying the carpet when we're out. I, very irresponsibly, traumatized her with her first crate. I didn't understand, at the time, that adult dogs don't take to crate training as willingly as puppies. Whenever she was crated, she cried, howled and barked the entire time. She also urinated in it. And those were the times she didn't break out of it.

      I desperately need some tips that have worked for people when crate training an adult dog. She won't even go near a crate if she sees it so it's going to be a long process. I've done research about it online but many sites don't apply the information to dogs who already have a negative association with the crate.
      Just as some added information- she can't be confined to a room. That's what we've already done with her. She damages the area around the door to whatever she's confined to. If she's in one room, she'll scratch the door up and the carpet around the door to that room. If she has the run of the apartment she'll scratch the door up and the carpet around the door to the apartment.

      • ANSWER:
        First thing to realize - dogs can be trained, even adult dogs who have had bad experiences. You are right in trying. A crate will become the dog's den, their safety zone. In the beginning, leave the door open, and put a favorite toy or treat in the crate. Don't force the dog to go anywhere near it, but make sure she sees you when you put the goodie inside. It will take a while for her to realize nothing bad will happen when she's in the crate, and you need to make sure no one goes near the crate or makes any loud, unexpected noises when she's around it. Only give her this special toy/treat inside the crate, and at no other time.
        She will begin to realize the only way to get this special goodie is inside the crate. Keep the crate somewhere out of the way, however, close to where the family typically hangs out, i.e., near the sofa/TV, or in a bedroom, or by the kitchen table, wherever the family typically is.
        As she begins to go inside the crate to get her goodie, very quiety and calmly tell her she's a good girl, use a special word such as crate, house, bed, a single word that she will begin to associate with the crate. For example, tell her quietly "Good Girl House".
        This will help in the future when you want her to go to the crate, you can tell her "house" and she'll know what you mean.

        Never use the crate for any type of punishment.

        Once she is comfortably going in and out, starting closing the door, but not locking it. Always use her special goodie whenever she is in the crate.

        If she whines, ignore it. Hard to do, I know. However, if she whines and you let her out, then she has control and gets what she wants, not what she should do. Make sure the crate has a couple of toys, bones, blanket, something that will make her comfortable (physically). also be sure the crate does not have any sharp metal edges, so if she does try to dig or claw her way out, she will not get hurt.

        Once you start closing the door, she will get comfortable with this stage. The next step is locking the door. In both of these stages, only leave her in for a very short time, 5 minutes or so, with you in eye sight of her. Don't pay attention to her, just be where she can see you. Gradually increase the amount of time she is left inside the crate.

        Although it will take a while to build up her confidence and the time length required, it will be well worth it. A crate will become her house, her safety net. Make sure whenever she is in her crate, with or without the door open, that she is left alone. This is especially important if you have children around, as they need to understand as well as the dog that the crate means she is to be left alone, and they can play with her later. She will see her crate as a place to go to rest, get away from noise and commotion, and be happy.

    5. QUESTION:
      What is the best method of crate training puppies?
      When crate training puppies is it better to leave them in for an extra hour if you have something you have to do. Or to come home let them go and put them right back in the crate.

      • ANSWER:
        I had a belgium Shepperd puppy. First 3 nights he was in a crate with my arm stretched over the cage, next few nights I moved his crate in the hallway and slept on the floor with my head sticking out of my bedroom and my arm about a foot from the cage. Next few nights I moved his crate to the living room and slept on the recliner. Next I opened the sliding doors, set his crate on the patio and slept on the recliner a couple of days. Next I put him in his outdoor cage, it was huge with a cedar dog house built for some reason with rain drains! (spoiled him a little) Still slept on the recliner, a few days of this he would always watch that I didn't move. After a few day I got a blanket and slept under that eventually one day slipping from under the blanket to my bed. This method took less than a month. Every time Lupo knew it was time for me to go to bed he would happily sit in front of the sliding doors, I would let him out and he would go straight to his mansion. He learned many other wonderful things and I miss him so much. I read this training method in a book, but sorry can't remember the name. You know what is best about it? I still had his crate, a little bigger though, and kept it in the house, living room, if there were people there he would come in the house and go to the crate unless someone wanted him out to play. He was the smartest best trained, (not so much by me but how Belgiums are) Amazing friend.

    6. QUESTION:
      What is the magnitude of the force needed to start the crate sliding if the coefficient of static friction?
      A wooden crate weighs 800.0 N. What is the magnitude of the force needed to start the crate sliding if the coefficient of static friction between the crate and floor is 0.4?

      • ANSWER:
        µ = coefficient of static friction = 0.4

        W = 800 N

        R = Normal Reaction of Surface = Weight of crate = 800 N

        F = f = µR
        F = 0.4 x 800
        F = 320 N

    7. QUESTION:
      What is the best sized crate for my female Sheltie?
      I'm planning to build my own dog crate using wood, and I want to know what's the best size for a full grown female Sheltie (l X w X h). I know that a crate should be just big enough for a dog to stand comfortably, turn round, and lie down, but that doesn't really help me to determine exactly how big I should make my coming Sheltie's crate. Please help? And thanks in advance!

      • ANSWER:
        Why bother? You can get perfectly good crates in any pet shop, and for a dog that small, for under :

        http://www.jefferspet.com/i-crate-folding-crate/p/0032804/cn/10007/

    8. QUESTION:
      What is a good age to stop crate training your puppy?
      I've been crate training my German Shepherd for a little over 3 months. He's getting pretty big which tells me (bigger crate). What is a good age or time to stop crate training and let him roam around freely when I am gone?

      • ANSWER:
        I don't go by age, I go by behavior. If you feel you can trust him to not soil in the house or destroy your things, he's ready. I have yet to find a dog trustworthy with the WHOLE house (or apartment) until around 2 years of age. Before you buy the next size crate, try leaving him in a puppy proof bedroom when you run an errand. Walk him first, make sure he eliminates on the walk and put him in the room with a kong (and the TV on). This will limit the destruction he can do. When you come back (an hour at the most), see how he has done. If he has done any damage or soiled, then you know to buy the next crate. I wouldn't just go one size up, though. I would buy the largest and section the back end off. That's what we did and it saved us money in the long run. We put a cooler in the back of the crate with the lid duck taped shut. She's 18 months and has been in the bedroom for the past year. She won't be allowed full run of the house for at least another six months, I'm sure. It's fine. She loves the bedroom, her bed, her toys.

    9. QUESTION:
      Should I start crate training my puppy the first day I bring her home?
      I'm getting a new puppy in a few weeks. She will be eight weeks old. Should I start crate training her the first day I bring her home? She has never been in a crate with the breeder. I don't know if I should put her in the crate at night her first night or what? When should "I start crate training her? Please help!

      • ANSWER:
        Yes, Take her to her potty spot, use your commands, sit in a chair and wait, praise her when she does good. Put the crate by the bed, leave the night light on so she can see you and be reassured you have not abandoned her. It will be normal for her to protest the crate, but don't engage her. Maybe an old tee shirt with your scent on it and play a soothing cd or radio until she sleeps. Carrots are great for teething puppies too. I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like “tsst” and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they don’t know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you don’t want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

        REVISIONS:
        *I use a CRATE to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.
        *OUTSIDE, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.
        *BEDROOMS, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.
        *TREATS. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.
        *SOME PUPPIES will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying “go finish” until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesn’t sneak off, or for strange places.
        *YELLING. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.
        SOURCE: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. Thanks for your help!

    10. QUESTION:
      What is the coefficient of static friction between the crate and the incline?
      A 232-kg crate rests on a surface that is inclined above the horizontal at an angle of 20.8°. A horizontal force (magnitude = 536 N and parallel to the ground, not the incline) is required to start the crate moving down the incline. What is the coefficient of static friction between the crate and the incline?

      • ANSWER:
        Reaction between crate and incline = 232*9.8*cos20.8
        Pushing force resolved down the incline = 536*cos20.8
        Weight force resolved down the incline = 232*9.8*sin20.8
        Force eqn:
        232*9.8*sin20.8 + 536*cos20.8 = 232*9.8*cos20.8*K
        K=(232*9.8*sin20.8 + 536*cos20.8)/(232*9.8*cos20.8)

    11. QUESTION:
      What is the coefficient of static friction between the crate and the incline?
      A 212-kg crate rests on a surface that is inclined above the horizontal at an angle of 20.4°. A horizontal force (magnitude = 531 N and parallel to the ground, not the incline) is required to start the crate moving down the incline. What is the coefficient of static friction between the crate and the incline?

      • ANSWER:
        Define:
        A = angle of the inclined plane = 20.4°
        m = mass of crate = 212 kg
        g = acceleration of gravity = 9.8m/s^2
        Fa = Applied Force = 531 N
        W = weight of the crate = mg = 2078 N
        u = coefficient of static friction

        The forces on the crate parallel, Fp, and normal, Fn, to the surface is
        Fp = WsinA + FacosA
        Fn = WcosA - FasinA

        Fp is sufficient to begin the crate moving against the resistance from static friction.

        u = Fp/Fn = (WsinA + FacosA)/(WcosA - FasinA)
        = (2078sin20.4 + 531cos20.4)/(2078cos20.4 - 531sin20.4)
        u = .693

    12. QUESTION:
      What is the coefficient of static friction between the crate and the ramp?
      IP A 45- kg crate is placed on an inclined ramp. When the angle the ramp makes with the horizontal is increased to 22 degrees , the crate begins to slide downward.

      B) At what angle does the crate begin to slide if its mass is doubled?

      Can you plz work it out for me. Thanks!

      • ANSWER:
        Draw a picture of the ramp, the crate, and a line for the normal to the ramp so you can keep track of what's going on. Gravitational force on the crate is F=mg straight down, where m=45 kg is the mass and g=9.8 m/s^2 is the acceleration of gravity. If the ramp is elevated an angle q from horizontal, the force normal to the ramp Fn is
        Fn = mg cos q
        and the force parallel to the ramp Fp is
        Fp = mg sin q
        (It's easy to get sin/cos confused in these sorts of problems. After you set the problem up, check that the normal force approaches the whole force of gravity as the ramp is tilted down so that it becomes horizontal, as you know that it should.) Static frictional force Ff is
        Ff = u Fn
        where u is the coefficient of static friction. This is parallel to the ramp and opposed to the component of gravitational force parallel to the ramp:
        Ff = u (mg cos q) = mg sin q
        u = tan q
        Now it's easy to calculate the coefficient of static friction, and easy to see that, for any particular value of the coefficient, the angle q is fixed and independent of mass.
        m

    13. QUESTION:
      How to pick the correct crate size for my dog?
      I need to get a cheap, portable, and LIGHT-WEIGHT crate to put my dog in during agility events. How do I pick the right size for her? She is 35lbs, but extremely tall and her ears are large & upright -- does the crate need to be tall enough for her ears, or is it okay to have her duck her head? Thanks!

      • ANSWER:
        As a rule of thumb, your dog should be able to sit, stand up, and turn around in her crate. If your dog stands up but has to duck her head, that's fine - especially if you're only going to use the crate for short durations at agility events or to transport your dog in.

    14. QUESTION:
      What magnitude of force must the worker apply to move the crate at constant velocity?
      "A factory worker pushes a 28.5 crate a distance of 4.1 along a level floor at constant velocity by pushing downward at an angle of 28 below the horizontal. The coefficient of kinetic friction between the crate and floor is 0.26."

      What magnitude of force must the worker apply to move the crate at constant velocity?

      How much work is done on the crate by this force when the crate is pushed a distance of 4.1 ?

      How much work is done on the crate by friction during this displacement?

      • ANSWER:
        the kinetic friction on the crate f = u mg (u is the coefficient of friction)
        = 0.26 x 28.5 x 9.8 = 71.8536 N
        (supposing that the mass of crate is 28.5 kg, it is not clear of course)

        a) now work done by pusing force W1 = f S = 71.8536 x 4.1 = 294.6 J

        b) work done by frictional force = work done by pushing force (due to constant veloty) = 294.6 J

    15. QUESTION:
      What kind of dog crate should I leave my small shihtzu/bichon puppy in when I leave?
      A larger crate so he has room to move around a little, or a small crate?

      • ANSWER:
        i have shih tzu and they hate being in small places ... one time when she was a puppy we put her im her crate because we were going to dinner we wanted to see how she would do so we recorded her ... she was barking her head off the WHOLE time .... lol haha ... the crate was small i think a bigger 1 is better so he can play because they love to play and walk around :) hope i helped

    16. QUESTION:
      What is the acceleration of the crate after it has begun to move?
      The coefficients of static and kinetic friction between a 405 N crate and the warehouse floor are 0.715 and 0.450, respectively. A worker gradually increases his horizontal push against this crate until it just begins to move and from then on maintains that same maximum push.

      • ANSWER:
        The force needed to overcome static friction is
        Fs = 405 * 0.715 = 289.575 N
        This the force the worker needs to just start moving the crate.

        The force needed to overcome kinetic friction is
        Fk = 405 * 0.45 = 182.25 N
        This is the force needed to keep the crate moving, once it started moving.

        289.575 - 182.25 = 107.325 N
        This is the force the worker applies on top of the force he needs to keep the crate moving. That means the crate will start accelerating. To know how much it accelerates, you need to know the crates mass first.

        m = 405 / 9.8 = 41.3265 kg

        Now you can calculate the acceleration.

        a = 107.325 / 41.326 = 2.597 m/s²

    17. QUESTION:
      How much work is done in raising a 50 kg crate a distance of 1.5 m above a store room floor?
      (a) How much work is done in raising a 50 kg crate a distance of 1.5 m above a store room floor? (b) What is the change of potential energy as a result of this move? (c) How much kinetic energy will the crate have as it falls and hits the floor?

      • ANSWER:
        work = force x distance

        50 kg is the measure of the crate's mass. You need to multiply the gravitational constant g = 9.81 m/s^2

        Force of crate = mass x g = 50 kg x (9.81 m/s^2) = 490.5 N

        Newtons is the unit of force.

        a) work = force x distance

        490.5 N x 1.5 m = 735.75 Nm (Newton meters)

        b) Change in potential energy

        You said the crate was on the floor. Since the crate was on the floor, which is y=0, there was no potential energy. When you raised the crate, you added potential energy.

        Potential energy = (mass x g) x Height of crate

        PE= (50kg x 9.81m/s^2) x 1.5 m = 735.75 Nm

        The unit Nm (newton meters) is equivalent to a Joule (J) which is the unit of energy.

        so,

        PE = 735.75 J

        C. Kinetic Energy is defined as .5 x mass x (velocity)^2

        = 1/2mv^2

        You didn't give a velocity, so you cant solve for this one.

    18. QUESTION:
      What is the acceleration of the crate after it has begun to move?
      The coefficients of static and kinetic friction between a 417 N crate and the warehouse floor are 0.565 and 0.450, respectively. A worker gradually increases his horizontal push against this crate until it just begins to move and from then on maintains that same maximum push.

      • ANSWER:
        Fs = m*.565
        Fd = m*.450

        So the maximum static friction permissible between the crate and floor is 417*.565 = 235.605 N
        So that's also where Fd kicks in.
        235.605 - m*.450 = ma
        As you may notice, Fs was m*.565
        .565 - .45 = a
        .115 m/s^2 = a

    19. QUESTION:
      What size crate do you think I should buy?
      What size crate do you think would be best for house training my little 2 month old pomeranian poodle mix? Please for all of you who hate crates and anyone who uses them keep your comments to yourself because no one wants to hear them. Everyone else's advice will be greatly appreciated.
      Those are all really good answers I'm getting from you all, although I think a 24 is a little to big for her.

      • ANSWER:
        it needs to big enough where she can stand up. Turn around, & laydown. & to be able to put a toy, a blanket, & some newspaper.

        anything bigger, then your dog will just go to the restroom on one side, thus defeating the purpose of the crate

        Being how little she is, I would recomend getting a cat cage, then switch over to an actual crate when she gets older

    20. QUESTION:
      What is the coefficient of kinetic friction between ramp and crate?
      A 300 kg crate is placed on an adjustable inclined plane. As one end of the incline is raised, the crate begins to move downward. If the crate slides down the plane at a constant speed when the incline angle is 25 degrees, what is the coefficient of kinetic friction between the ramp and crate?

      • ANSWER:
        Coefficient take the residual speed of the crate X the velocity of the combined weight + degree of the angle.

    21. QUESTION:
      How do I get my puppy to realize her crate is a safe home for her?
      I just got a 8 week old Yorkie/Toy Fox Terrier mix and brought her home yesterday. I was able to crate her for a while last night (about 5 hours) and she took a nap in the crate with the door open. Today I put her in for about 15-20 minutes with the door closed and she cried a bit at first, but I didn't hear anything from the bedroom. Later today I had to run a quick errand so I crated her and she cried the whole time I was gone. Right now she is sitting in her crate with the door open and seems fine. How do I get her to know its ok to be in there with the door closed?

      • ANSWER:
        Feed her in there, put pleasant things in there, like a blanket, or even better a dog bed. Keep all her toys in there. It takes some time to get used to, but don't give up because a crate is a VERY useful tool.

        Don't close the door unless she is relaxed. Gently shut it, then reward heavily, with something DELICIOUS, like chicken...just make the crate a postitive place to be, and work up closed-door time.

    22. QUESTION:
      What is crate training and how does it work?
      I am getting a Great Dane puppy and have heard a lot about crate training but not sure what is entirely involved in this or its purpose, pros, cons, etc.

      Can anyone explain?

      • ANSWER:
        I used it to help potty train the Dalmatian we had because of our work schedule. It worked like a charm for her. She was not a real young puppy so she could already go 3 hours between potty breaks. She was a fast learner too.

        The dog I have now now did not have to be crate trained because I am home everyday. I do not agree with crate training for behavioral issues. Most behavioral issues(chewing, tearing up things etc) can be corrected by exercising the dogs more.

    23. QUESTION:
      How am I supposed to get my puppy to LIKE his crate?
      Hi! I have a Doberman puppy that I am currently crate training. I've been told to do two things with this: ignore him when he whines and tries to get out, but get him to like his crate so that he'll go in it voluntarily sometimes. I've ignored his whines so that he is now quiet whenever he's in his crate, but every time I open the crate, he comes BOLTING out and never wants to look back. I understand he's a good dog so he'll stay in his crate without whining, but getting him to like and use it on his own accord is a completely different thing.

      How am I supposed to make him like a place that basically traps him?

      • ANSWER:
        Dogs see their crate as their den; a safe area for them where they can get away from the general noise and activities in the house and just relax.
        To get a puppy to like his crate, and to teach him its an ok place, you have to start really gradually. Toss some treats or a chew toy in the crate, so that he will go in to get them. Stay a little bit away, and make it clear that you will not close the door behind him. He will probably run in and grab the treats, and then bolt out. Next, try tossing them farther into the crate, so that he will have to go all the way in to get the treats. When he goes in the crate, praise him and make sure he knows that you are pleased. Also, every time he goes in the crate, say "crate" so that he will learn the command and go in his crate when you tell him to.
        When he is comfortable going in and out of the crate, have him stay there with the door open. Sit right outside the crate and don't let him bolt. You can pet him and praise him when he is calm inside the crate.
        Gradually build up. Close the door to the crate but stay in the room. When he stops whining, then open the door and let him come out of the crate. You can then try leaving the room, increasing the time intervals that you are gone until he can be in his crate comfortably for a few hours. Remember never to open the door until he has stopped whining.

        To get him to go in and out of his crate on his own accord, you could do a few things. Toss a few treats in there from time to time, without letting the dog know. When he goes in his crate, he will find a nice surprise, and he will begin to go in his crate more often to look for these treats. Also, if you are inside the house and tossing a toy for your puppy to fetch, throw it in the crate and let him go inside the crate to get the toy. I do this with my puppy, and he usually just goes marches on in, grabs the toy, and comes back out.
        Leave the crate door open during the day, so that your puppy can relax in there if he would like.
        Good luck!

    24. QUESTION:
      How do you crate train a puppy with separation anxiety?
      I have a four month old puppy with separation anxiety and I just got a crate for him. How do I crate train him to like his crate so I don't traumatize him??
      And when I have to leave how do I put him in so he doesn't think it's a punishment?

      • ANSWER:
        EASIEST SOLUTION:
        When you take him out for walks, take him out using the crate. He will associate the crate with going outside (ie. FUN) and will have no problems jumping in!

        Using snacks is another good way to tempt him into there.

    25. QUESTION:
      What is the coefficient of kinetic friction between the ramp and the crate?
      A steel washer is suspended inside an empty shipping crate from a light string attached to the top of the crate. The crate slides down a long ramp that is inclined at an angle of 39 degrees above the horizontal. The crate has mass 157 kg . You are sitting inside the crate (with a flashlight); your mass is 53 kg . As the crate is sliding down the ramp, you find the washer is at rest with respect to the crate when the string makes an angle of 75 degrees with the top of the crate.

      • ANSWER:
        Have a look at this image :
        http://i48.tinypic.com/b9gcnp.png

        In the last image
        a = actual acceleration of the crate
        g = gravity

        You can see that
        a / sin(α) = g / sin(φ)
        so
        a = g sin(α) / sin(φ)
        a = 9.8 sin(24) / sin(105)
        a = 4.127 m/s²

        Given the angle of the incline, the acceleration without friction should have been:
        a' = 9.8 sin(39) = 6.167 m/s²

        So the deceleration by friction is:
        f = 6.167 - 4.127 = 2.036 m/s²

        The component of gravitation that is perpendicular to the incline is:
        g' = 9.8 cos(39) = 7.617 m/s²

        And finally, the coefficient of kinetic friction is:
        µ = f / g'
        µ = (2.036 m/s²) / (7.617 m/s²)
        µ = 0.267 < - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - answer

        Note:
        You're propably more familiar with this method:
        µ = Ff / Fn
        where
        Ff = force of friction
        Fn = normal force

        Well...

        (force of friction) = (mass of object) × (deceleration by friction)
        Ff = m × f

        (normal force) = (mass of object) × (perpendicular component of gravity)
        Fn = m × g'

        (coefficient of friction) = (force of friction) / (normal force)
        µ = Ff / Fn
        µ = ( m × f ) / ( m × g' )
        µ = f / g'

        As you can see... it is the exact same thing as what I did to solve the question.

        Edit:
        In the end, even gravity fals out of the equation.
        Let
        α = angle of the incline = 39°
        β = angle of the string wrt the top of the crate = 75°
        then
        µ = [ sin(α) + cos(α+β)/sin(β) ] / cos(α)
        µ = [ sin(39) + cos(39+75)/sin(75) ] / cos(39)
        µ = 0.267

        Edit 2:
        I just found out that this equation can even be simplified to:
        µ = 1 / tan(β)
        µ = 1 / tan(75)
        µ = 0.267

    26. QUESTION:
      How to crate train a 3 year old jackahuahua?
      I have tried to crate train my dog but he just urinates and poos all over his bed and the crate still! He is over 3 now and its so frustrating! The cage is suitable for a large dog and he is only a chihuahua cross jack russel! I always leave him with a chew or toy.. And never for longer than 4 hours! What do i do?

      • ANSWER:
        You train a mutt like you would a purebred. The dog should also be vet checked. Google crate training.

    27. QUESTION:
      How do I help my puppy with crate training?
      We've had Dodger for 2 weeks. We keep him in my husbands home office, because my husband works from home and it gives Dodger company. Dodger is crated when he sleeps in the day and is out of his crate but confined to the room when he's not sleeping. That bit is going well. We've had few accidents in the room.

      At night, Dodger goes to sleep around 11 and wakes up at 5 or 6 am, when we take him outside to pee. We *thought* things were going fine until this morning, when I put my head way inside the crate, I noticed he'd been peeing in the back of his crate!

      I don't understand because he's really never been left alone in the house and we don't confine him to it for a long stretch, other than the 6-hour stretch at night.

      Is there a way to remedy this and to stop him from eliminating in the crate?

      • ANSWER:
        The crate should only be big enough for the dog to stand in and turn around.

        If it is a lot bigger than this, it is too big and your dog will find a corner far enough away from what he considers "his space" and use it.

        The remedy is to find a smaller crate, and if he's a puppy hang on to your current one when Dodger outgrows it.

    28. QUESTION:
      How to keep my dog entertained in crate?
      I am wondering how to keep my dog happy and safe in his crate when I am out for a few hours. He will not play with a Kong (even if it's stuffed), he won't chew on nylabones, and does not like any other chew toys. He is an adult dog and will only chew on edible chews such as bully sticks and busy bones. However, I am worried about leaving him alone with either of those because I'm worried about the slight chance that he could choke. Any suggestions?

      Thanks!

      • ANSWER:
        you leave nothing in the crate but something soft to lay on ... a crate is not for eating or playing, it is for sleeping and remaining calm ... you are right not to give anything chewie because the dog could choke ... have the dog walk in the crate, close the door and push small pieces of broke up treats through the door so the dog is looking and crunching on those and won't be so focused on you leaving ... dogs do not need to be entertained in their crates ... that is not what they are for ...

    29. QUESTION:
      When crate training a puppy during the day, do you put food in the crate?
      I've read SO many things, I'm a bit confused. My puppy is now 10 weeks old. She sleeps all night in her crate with no problems. My question is this....do you provide water and/or food in her crate during the day? I would think this defeats the purpose as she would need to "go" if you do. However, would she not get dehydrated and/or hungry? My daughter comes home at lunch and right after school, so she is only crated for 3 to 3 1/2 hours at a time.

      Please HELP...there is so much advise out there I'm confused. Answers from an actual dog trainer would be great!
      Thank you all for answering...you've taken a huge worry off of my shoulders.

      • ANSWER:
        You do not need to put food/water in crate. If you leave food in there, your dog will want to go potty within 20 minutes after eating and drinking. He will not get dehydrated because he is indoors. Leaving water out is mainly for outdoor dogs because they need the water to maintain their body temperature, but if your dog is in an air conditioned environment he will not have this problem. Also, being that your dog is only 10 weeks old, the longest he would be able to hold "it" would be a max of 3 hours at a time. A rule of thumb to calculate how long your dog should hold it is to take the number of months it is plus 1. ie....your dog is 2 1/2 months old so he should not be expected to hold it for more than 3 hours. You should also only feed your dog 3 times a day the same time everyday. Limit the time your puppy eats. Allow him 20 minutes to eat and drink then put away. This will teach your dog to not graze all day and eat when food is presented to him. Then wait another 20 minutes to let him out to do his business. By monitoring his food/water intake, it will make it easier for you to predict when he will need to be let out to potty. Best times to let him out would be: first thing in the morning, right before bedtime, after he wakes up from a nap and after playing 30 minutes. If your puppy is taking to long to do his business, get him running around....the exercise will get his system going faster. After your puppy does his business, quietly tell him good dog and immediately reward him with a treat.

    30. QUESTION:
      How to get puppy comfortable in his crate?
      We recently got a new puppy and are trying to crate train him. He's ok with being in the crate with the door open but cries and yelps when it's closed. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to make him more comfortable with being in his crate?

      • ANSWER:
        Give him treats now and then and praise him each time he gets into the crate.. get a soft cuddly toy without anything which can be bitten off which he could choke/swallow on.. He will eventually get used to this and like the attention of being praised for it. Good Luck! x

    31. QUESTION:
      What happens if you crate train your puppy too early?
      My baby is 3 months, but he is really doing well.. (I think) He has not pooped or peed in his crate yet, and it is the only way I can make sure he wont pee or poor in his room, stinking up my whole house. What do you guys think?

      • ANSWER:
        Never to early, but remember what the crate is for. It is not so you can put him in there when you are home so you can watch tv and not have to worry about him. I am not accusing you of this, just using this as an example. The crate is there so anytime you leave the house you have a safe place for your dog. It can be used anytime you cant supervise your dog as well when you are home, but this cant be an everyday occurance. If this is the case, then you should not own a puppy. You should buy an adult dog. Part of the responsibility of owning a puppy is the raising of the puppy. As long as you are just using the crate when you leave the house and you arent locking your dog in there when you are home, you and your puppy are doing an awsome job. You should be proud.

    32. QUESTION:
      what is the best way to crate train your opsa lopsa?
      i have a opsa lopsa and it is 6 weeks old and it loves to whine in the right when i put in in it's crate to go to bed. the first night i let it sleep in the bed with me instead of the crate is htat a bad thing. it sleeps with me in my room cause of it's crate is in my room. what should i do when it whines in the middle of the night?

      • ANSWER:
        A 6-wk old puppy is too young to sleep all night. The general rule of thumb for how long your puppy can stay alone in the crate: the puppy's age in months plus one. At night you can get by a little longer, but a 6-week old puppy will need food, water and bathroom at least once or twice during the night. So get up! You have a "baby" to care for.

    33. QUESTION:
      Is it morally right to crate a dog during the day?
      My wife wants to crate train our dog, but I have a problem with keeping a dog locked up in a crate all day. Am I overreacting?

      • ANSWER:
        No, you are not overreacting. You just have some of the details mixed up. The crate training does not consist of the dog being crated ALL day.

        Crate training is the best way to potty train your dog. It works well but you should not keep the dog in the crate no longer than 4 hours. After you take him outside and he does his business then he should be fine for an hour or so running freely in the house. The more trained your dog gets and get on a schedule the longer you can keep the dog out and about without having to worry.

    34. QUESTION:
      What is the best way to crate train my dog?
      My akita is 10 weeks old now and just cries and cries when he is in the crate i try to make it pleasant for him whenever he is in his crate. Can anyone give me any pointers for getting him successfully crate trained.

      • ANSWER:
        Place the crate in a room where you are near by. Place a towel or shirt with your scent on it in the crate. create positive associations with the crate for your dog. feed in in the crate with the door open. Never use the crate for punishment. Ignore cries while the dog is crated.If you baby talk him you will be training him to cry in crate for attention.....good luck.

    35. QUESTION:
      Should I leave the crate door open at night?
      I was planning on crate training my 7 week old golden retriever puppy. She is paper trained, but I don't want her to chew.
      Thanks. I know it sounds stupid, but it's my first dog and I never realized how many different training methods there are.

      • ANSWER:
        You should cross crate training off the list. It's not training...

        http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/1825195/crate_training_your_dog_pg2.html?cat=53

    36. QUESTION:
      How do I stop my puppy from peeing in her crate?
      I have had my puppy for about one week. The first 3-4 nights she had peed and pooped in her crate. I thought that they don't pee or poop in their "safe place". I am feeding her two times a day at specific times, 10 minutes at a time. She seems to be healthy. I don't feed her 6 hours before we go to sleep. I have changed her bedding at least once a day, and sometimes twice and it is wet with urine.

      She has not pooped in her crate for a few days. She just keeps peeing. I take her out to go potty shortly after she eats and when she wakes up, and before I go to bed. What am I doing wrong?
      Its the smallest crate I could find and she will fit it when she is grown.
      She is a Palmerainian Chihuahua

      • ANSWER:
        First of all,no bedding in her crate.That means NO blankies,no bed,no toys,no nothing.Just the dog in the crate.Secondly,it has to be a small enough area where she can't pee on one side and go sit on the other side of the cage.Block it off with a box or something to make it smaller inside.No blankies to soak up what she does pee.The no water for 6 hours before bed seems a litle extreme.maybe a couple hours before bedtime,and make sure she goes out one last time each night.Good luck.

    37. QUESTION:
      How often should my dog be in the crate and how often shod i let her out during the crate training phase?
      I just got a yorkshire terrier puppy! My beeder said i should use the crate training method but i am a little unsure about how it works. Any help would help!

      • ANSWER:
        I also have a Yorkie and used the crate for him when I wasn't home. It also depends on the age of the dog. As a rule of thumb, puppies can only hold their bladder for 1 hour for every month of age. So if the dog is lets say, 3 months old, she should be ok for 3 hours. If the pup is very young and you're gone for 8 hours or so it won't be able to hold it for that length of time. I used a pen and pee pads when mine was young when I was working all day. As he got older I used the crate but I NEVER used the crate for discipline. It should be a pleasant place for them to be and go to when they want a little privacy or quiet time. Now that he's an adult he has the run of the house when we're not there and will still go in the crate from time to time. Good luck.

    38. QUESTION:
      At what age should a puppy be when i start to crate train him?
      I bought a ten week old beagle puppy today. Should I begin crate training him immediately? And when is it appropriate to start taking him for walks? I was told that he shouldn't be taken for a walk for 3 weeks. Is this right? It is a purebred beagle puppy.

      • ANSWER:
        Start crate training now. Waiting will make it harder for him to learn.

        Take him on short walks, around your yard, immediately so that he gets used to being on a leash. However, don't take him off of your property until he has all of his shots... you don't want to risk him catching anything!

    39. QUESTION:
      How do i stop my dog from moving his crate when I am not home?
      The crate I have my dog in does not have a trey in it. So he sits in the crate and some how he has managed a way to move the crate from the kitchen to the living room fireplace. And along the way he pulls in whater peace of paper or plastic he can find and rips it to shreds. He made his way to my blinds and tore them to pieces. I dont know what to do. I have twins on the way and if he keeps this up he has to go.

      • ANSWER:
        Wire crates are dangerous for dogs like that. He could really injure himself. Invest in a plastic enclosed crate...it will be worth it for proper house-training.

        Please consider the obvious questions here as well: how old is he? how long have you had him? how much exercise does he get (at least 1 hour of off leash running time per day)? how long do you leave him in the crate? is he okay in his crate when you ARE home? does he sleep and/or eat in his crate? (he should) what have you done to train him?

    40. QUESTION:
      How do you crate train a puppy?
      I got a puppy about two months ago and we started with crate training but we didn't follow through with keeping her in her crate all the time so she got in the habit of eliminating anywhere she wants. I want to start back up with crate training. Any tips or suggestions? i want it to work this time!

      • ANSWER:
        Put the puppy in the crate when you are gone or not watching it. When you take the dog out of the crate take it right outside to potty.

    41. QUESTION:
      How to crate train a beagle puppy?
      I have read everyone different methods. I have new 8 week old beagle boy, Dexter, and he whines so loud in crate. I take him out and play for a bit and I make sure to take him out every three hours to pee or poo. At night I put him in box near my bed and pet him until he sleeps. I also put a radio near his crate with nice music. I am into the second day. Any other advice that can help?
      Understand, that I do not intend for the Dexter to stay in the crate like this forever. I have a beagle that we trained 2 years ago and he actually rarely goes into his crate now. We even leave him run of the house when we are gone. But I seem to have lost my memory of how I got Henry this well trained. It did not seem as hard. Or maybe I just forgot. Henry didn't cry this much.

      I have been instructed that it had to be done (crating) to potty train them. I was also told that the puppy will have to be taken to pee every three hours for a month or so until his little bladder has grown. I am doing this and know that there will be accidents.

      • ANSWER:
        first of all move that crate to somewhere away from you.the pup wants to be with you and get constant attention-but you can't let that happen or behavior will get worse.the pup WILL give up,stop whineing at some point which is why the pup should not so close-not untill he understands he is not going to be let out until you say now .i know it is very hard in the beginning but you are doing the right thing letting him out often.as he ages it is wise to increase time in crate to 4 . hours. in time he will sleep in his crate the whole night -this will ne his den-his place. hang in there.

    42. QUESTION:
      How can I crate train my adult dogs at night?
      I have two adult dogs, one male and one female. They have adjusted well to being in their crate during the day when we're out at work, but I have not been able to crate them successfully at night. Plus, my husband is allergic to dog hair, so, we can't have the dogs sleeping in the bedroom. I tried crating them at night but they start whining as soon as we go into the bedroom and they can't see us anymore. Please help!

      • ANSWER:
        I'm just wondering exactly how much time they are having spend being crated. If you are working full time, that's presumably 8 hours. And another 8 hours overnight which is a lot of being in a crate time. As they are adult, is it possible for them to be confined during the day, but not crated? Adult dogs should not be crated for longer than 4 hours at a spell during the daytime.

        Further, despite your husband's allergies, would it be possible for them to be crated, but in your room. I know people say it's a case of ignoring them, but, again, if they are spending say 16 hours in a 24 hour period being crated, that's too much.

        I'd try to set up a place in your home which doesn't involve the need for a crate, if they are adults. My two sleep in crates with me overnight, but now they are adult (2 and 3 years) they go into the kitchen, with a baby-gate across the doorway, when we go out during the day.

    43. QUESTION:
      How do I get my dog to stop peeing in crate?
      I have a 10 week rat terrier and he pees in his crate. Usually its at night. I take him out every 2-4 hours and before I go to bed. Before he use to cry to wake me up to take him out but now he just starts to cry when he either hears me moving around early morning or my alarm goes off. By then he's already peed in his bed. What must I do to make him stop?

      • ANSWER:
        at 10 weeks your dog can hold its bladder for about three hours. which is why he is waking you up. so just try to set an alarm to wake you up everything three hours to take him out. you can estimate how long he can hold it like with the formula of # of months + 1. You don't want to let him out while he is crying because then you are reinforcing bad behavior... lastly the crate should only be big enough for him to sit, lay down and turn around in, any bigger and most likely he will go because he can stay away from it.

        Once he is trained you can take out the divider to give him more room.

    44. QUESTION:
      How long should you crate train a dog?
      I have 10 month old Morkie. My wife and I leave him in the crate whenever we can't supervise him. We both feel that he will destroy the place unattended. I asked my vet and trainers at petsmart the same question and they told me that you can leave him in the crate as long as you want because the dog will associate the crate as his "home". On the other hand I have people who tell me that leaving a dog crated can cause mental issues. Not sure what to do.

      • ANSWER:
        crates are meant as a training tool and not where a dog lives ... so for when a pup is a pup and in puppy chew stuff apart stage, and while housebreaking, but when a dog is trained, there is no reason to remove the crate entirely but just remove the door ... i crated my dog till her first birthday but by the 8th month i could put her in, close the door but not latch, and she would still be in the crate when i got home ... but when she turned 1 the door came off ... why do you think your pup would destroy stuff, it is almost full grown ??? if the dog is destructive outside the crate, it requires training outside the crate but by a year old puppies are usually out of their destructive phases and are housebroken ... if your dog is both, try closing the door and no latching and see what happens ...

    45. QUESTION:
      How do I train my puppy not to pee in his crate when we're not home?
      We just got a Ridgeback puppy who is 5mo's old from a shelter. During the day when we are not home he is in his crate & when I come home for lunch to let him out, he has already peed in it. Is there a way to get him not to do this or will he grow out of it? I'm not sure if I should scold him -- and haven't so far b/c he is a puppy.

      • ANSWER:
        ok, i know a lot of people have already answered your question, but please just take some time to read mine. DOG IS NOT SUPPOSED TO PEE IN THEIR CRATE!! it's their natural instinct not to pee in their own space; get any training book off the shelves and they will tell you the same thing. If your dog pees in the crate, chances are1. he doesn't see it as home. 2. he isn't properly trained by his mom. i am guessing 2. is the reason for your dog. a lot of shelter dog lose their basic instinct of "not to pee in their space/close to food" due to bad sanitary in the shelter. sadly, most of them are forced to get use to peeing next to their food because they are locked in a small crate.
        ok, here is how you fix the problem.
        1. either get him a new crate or clean the crate throughoutly. is the crate from the shelter? if it is, i suggest you just throw it away. if it was a new crate that you bought him, clean it really really really really well. if your dog smells just a little bit of pee smell in it, he will go back to his old habit.
        2. here is the hard part. puppy need to go potty all the time because they have weaker muscles. they definitely need to go after approx 15 min after meal. and i would puppies need to go every 2 hours. (you need to figure out how many times your dog need to go yourself though, every dog is different). is it possible that you can have your neighbor come over and let him go when you can't do it yourself?
        puppies muscles will strengthen as they grow up, but the habit of peeing in crate will not go away if you don't fix it. dogs don't like being dirty and sleeping next to their pee. i think your puppy might not be used to the idea of "someone will let me out of the crate and potty". again, it's not uncommon for shelter dog to get such behavoral problem like this. i am really glad that someone adopt a dog and give him love instead of getting a pure bred dog to show off. good luck with your puppy!

    46. QUESTION:
      How do you crate train a puppy with separation anxiety?
      I have a 4 month old puppy who gets severe separation anxiety when put in her crate to the point that she poops and pees even after she was just taken out and did all her business. She'll go in her cage within minutes of being put in there and we're really not sure what to do about it. Any suggestions?

      • ANSWER:
        Put a towel in your puppy's crate. Don't use a good dog bed at this stage because you don't want to ruin it. Then put all of her toys at the back of the crate. When you go to play with her tell her to go and get her toys. In order to get the toys she has to go into the crate to get them. This makes the crate a 'toy box' and so it becomes positive. Also, she is going in it without the door closing so it isn't stressful. Since she is so upset in her crate at this point, it is all about getting her used to the crate very slowly.

        You can also put her in her crate to eat. She probably won't eat if you close the door, so leave the door open the first day or two and stay right beside the crate. Then close the crate door while she eats her supper, but stay in the room still. This again makes the crate a positive place where she gets fed. You don't always have to feed her in the crate, just occasionally right now so that she has something to distract her from the fear of the crate.

        You can teach her to 'go to bed'. Tell her go to bed while standing right at her crate door, and lure her into the crate with a treat. Give her the treat while she was still in the crate and praise her while she is still in the crate. When she comes out of the crate, stop praising, and just become neutral with her. Ask her again to 'go to bed', luring her into the crate. When she is in the crate praise her, give her a treat or a toy. She is allowed to leave the crate if she wants during this exercise, but she shouldn't be rewarded for being out of the crate.

        I also like putting stuffed Kongs in a dog's crate. Stuff the Kong with peanut butter and show her that there is yummy stuff inside. Put her in the crate and sit at the door to the crate. If she goes in and starts to lick the peanut butter, slowly close the crate door and open it again (without locking it). Repeat this until the Kong is finished. When she is done the peanut butter, just stand up and walk away from the crate. She can come out of the crate, but again, you are not going to reward her for leaving the crate (she already thinks leaving the crate is good). Since your puppy seems so anxious with the crate, you need to go very slowly so as not to get her more upset. The ideal is for your puppy to be happy being left in the crate alone, and even better if she is still willing to keep herself busy with a Kong while you are gone.

        Once your puppy is used to you putting her in the crate with the Kong (or supper or toy, whatever makes her happy), start closing the crate door as soon as you put her in the crate. Still sit beside the crate until she is done. Now you can start waiting a few seconds to open the crate door and let her out. You can start with 5-10 seconds. You need to let her out before she starts digging, barking, whining, peeing, etc. Start making this time longer, and start moving around the room while she is busy in her crate. She should be trusting that her crate is a safe place by this point. Continue adding distance and time to her being in the crate. Start giving her the treat in her crate and going outside then coming back in. She will learn that you are coming back and that the crate is a safe place (and has yummy snacks).

        As soon as the crate is no longer the worst thing in the world to her, you can start putting her in the crate whenever she falls asleep. If she is tired enough she won't even notice she was put in her crate. It is a great way for a dog to learn that the crate is a place to relax and be comfortable. Every time she falls asleep, put her in the crate.

        Good luck!

    47. QUESTION:
      How long does it roughly take to crate train a puppy?
      Hello I have a King Charles puppy who is 12 weeks old. We got her at 10 weeks, I am trying to crate train her instead of using the newspaper method. I am not having much luck, I am constantly taking her outside but she still has lots of accidents indoors. Maybe I am expecting miracles but wondering should I be doing something else. Thanks.

      • ANSWER:
        give her something she likes when she does it in the crate yell at her when she doesnt and if it doesnt work a puppy school could be helpful

    48. QUESTION:
      A crate is sliding down a ramp that is inclined at an angle of 47.8° above the horizontal. The coefficient of ?
      A crate is sliding down a ramp that is inclined at an angle of 47.8° above the horizontal. The coefficient of kinetic friction between the crate and the ramp surface is 0.137. Find the acceleration of the moving crate.

      • ANSWER:
        Unfortunately, I can’t draw the diagram to show you what I mean, but you have to tilt your xy plane so that the x-axis is parallel to the incline.

        Then you use F = (m)(a) for both the x-axis and the y-axis:

        Fx = (m)(ax)

        Fy = (m)(ay)

        Where:

        Fx = sum of all forces acting along the x-axis
        Fy = sum of all forces acting along the y-axis
        m = mass of the crate
        ax = acceleration of the crate along the x-axis
        ay = acceleration of the crate along the y-axis

        Fx = Wx + Ffr

        Fy = 0 = Wy + Fn

        Where:

        Wx = weight of the object along the x-axis = (m)(g)(sin 47.8 degrees)
        Wy = weight of the object along the y-axis = (m)(g)(cos 47.8 degrees)
        Fn = normal force = -Wy
        Ffr = force of friction = (coefficient of friction)(Fn)
        g = gravity = 9.8 m/s^2

        Since we know that the acceleration along the y-axis is 0, we take all of our substitutions and put them in the equation of:

        Fx = (m)(ax)

        and we get:

        (m)(g)(sin 47.8) – (coeff fric)(m)(g)(cos 47.8) = (m)(ax)

        The mass cancels out of the equation, so your left with:

        (g)(sin 47.8) – (coeff fric)(g)(cos 47.8) = ax

        Plug and chug and you will find the acceleration.


    crate an